How Fashion Works

Citation

Wigley, S. (2006), "How Fashion Works", Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. 10 No. 1, pp. 120-121. https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020610651178

Synopsis

This book explores the fashion industry from a new perspective. The author has eschewed an account of fashion history, instead examining the industrial processes needed to design, manufacture and distribute garments, and explains how the evolution of these processes has influenced the industry. Distinction is made between three levels of the fashion industry; couture, ready‐to‐wear and mass production. Indicating the characteristics of each level, the book shows how the fashion industry is an evolving, multi‐faceted and global business reliant on often dichotomous creative, manufacturing and distribution procedures.

The primary distinctions between the three levels described are in the time and skill required to produce garments, and the number of items made. Couture describes the activities undertaken by exclusive design houses that produce limited numbers of expensive, high quality garments. Couture houses are organised according to long‐established principles, with the couturier (or designer) providing an identity and direction, supported by assistant designers and a premier de l'atelier (head of the work room). Couture houses are regulated by national organisations which ensure that members meet stringent design, manufacturing and commercial regulations.

These regulations make couture garments affordable by very few consumers. Therefore, to be commercially sustainable, the fashion industry provides less wealthy consumers with cheaper garments. The antecedents of this ready‐to‐wear (RTW) industry are in eighteenth century second‐hand clothes dealers who stocked unwanted samples from tailors and dressmakers. Manufacturers were soon making garments to be specifically sold in such outlets, facilitated by their new ability to produce relatively cheap and high quality garments. RTW acquired greater significance during the 1960's and afterward as the division between it and couture became blurred. Designers were able produced garments which were distinctive and cutting‐edge while remaining relatively affordable.

Mass production of clothing was pioneered during the early twentieth century. The process of manufacturing a large number of garments involves fabric testing, pattern cutting, sizing, and assembly. Today, this process is often computerised, using design software to plan the process and automatic machinery to carry it out. Typically, independent companies undertake mass production on behalf of the brand under which the garments are sold, usually high street brands such as Marks and Spencer. As the fortunes of this company illustrate, predicting styles sizes and delivering consistent quality to the customer is challenging. The most successful mass‐market retailers have sophisticated forecasting techniques, just‐in‐time manufacturing, efficient distribution and effective marketing.

While the distinctions between couture, RTW and mass production are evident – primarily in the design, quality and number of garments produced – they are increasingly elastic. For instance, in order to remain commercially viable, many couture houses today offer a RTW range, while manufacturing technology has allowed mass‐production of convincing couture copies. Notwithstanding the distinctions between the three divisions, each is dependent on the other for creative inspiration, commercial viability or market exposure.

Specialised trades such as tailoring and millinery are more difficult to classify, requiring specific skills independent of the three levels. The result of tradition‐bound trades, tailors, dressmakers and milliners support each of the fashion levels by bringing specialised skills and applying the “finishing touches” to garments.

Distribution is highlighted as a critical component of the fashion business. This involves the selection of items by commercial buyers, and their sale to the public – in effect the conversion from wholesaling to retailing. Once the garments are selected, they are put through a merchandising process to allocate, price and deliver merchandise to stores in order to achieve maximum sales. Meanwhile, marketing is used to make the products appealing to the consumer. In today's competitive environment, retailers have paid more attention to the “behind the scenes” aspects of their business. This has allowed the rise of corporate management in the pursuit of economies of scale and commercial synergies. Similarly, “fast fashion” requires much more advanced design, manufacturing and distribution techniques to be put in place.

The role played by industries associated with the fashion business cannot be underestimated. Media coverage, especially by specialised fashion writers, plays a large part in exposing fashion brands and style concepts to the public and hence managing public relations have become important to in the business. Finally, the role played by fashion schools in maintaining skills and traditions and in breeding talent makes them an important component in how fashion works.

Review

This book is useful to academics and commercial practitioners seeking an understanding of the fashion industry. It is thoroughly researched, attractively presented and appealing in its unpretentious style. Furthermore, its examination of the fashion business from a manufacturing perspective allows a unique insight. The book also includes a number of valuable reference resources, and places current industry challenges in their historical context.

The processes involved in design and manufacturing are covered in depth, both historically and with regard to modern techniques. However, while the author acknowledges the growing importance of distribution and marketing in the success of fashion companies, these components are not examined with the same attention to detail. For readers seeking insight into these specific areas, this book may serve as an introduction to the main themes.

Overall, the book is a valuable addition to the literature surrounding the fashion business. It is accessible, pertinent to different levels of expertise, and provides a distinctive insight to the fashion industry.