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Fabric design considering the optimisation of seam slippage

Rui Alberto Lopes Miguel (R&D Unit of Textile and Paper Materials – Textile Department, University of Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal)
José Mendes Lucas (R&D Unit of Textile and Paper Materials – Textile Department, University of Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal)
Maria de Lurdes Carvalho (R&D Unit of Textile and Paper Materials – Textile Department, University of Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal)
Albert Maria Manich (R&D Unit of Textile and Paper Materials – Textile Department, University of Beira Interior, Covilhã, Portugal)

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

ISSN: 0955-6222

Article publication date: 1 June 2005

760

Abstract

Purpose

The dependence of seam slippage values on fabric construction parameters makes this property an interesting case for study.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, made on a significant wool and blended fabrics sample, the seam slippage was measured, either in warp direction (weft yarns slip), or in weft direction (warp yarns slip), using a specially equipped load‐elongation tester. Testing was done following the TM 117 Woolmark Company test method.

Findings

For most fabrics, the conventional variables that impact seam slippage most seriously are opacity, polyamide content, finish type and cover factor.

Research limitations/implications

Since this research does not deal with the variable of yarn crimp in fabrics, it is the cover factor that plays the central role, as the property determining seam slippage. The yarns with lower cover factor (less crimped) are in less danger of slipping between the perpendicular yarns (more crimped) and vice versa.

Practical implications

Based on the equations given, and changing the most relevant variables concerning the explanation of the fabric seam slippage property, the fabric properties can be optimised for specific end‐uses.

Originality/value

Optimisation of seam slippage in fabric design.

Keywords

Citation

Lopes Miguel, R.A., Mendes Lucas, J., de Lurdes Carvalho, M. and Manich, A.M. (2005), "Fabric design considering the optimisation of seam slippage", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 17 No. 3/4, pp. 225-231. https://doi.org/10.1108/09556220510590920

Publisher

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Emerald Group Publishing Limited

Copyright © 2005, Emerald Group Publishing Limited

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