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Article
Publication date: 15 March 2024

Arzu Şen Kılıç, Can Ünal and Ziynet Ondogan

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement…

Abstract

Purpose

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers’ patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method.

Findings

According to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production.

Originality/value

In the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 25 April 2024

Boxiang Xiao, Zhengdong Liu, Jia Shi and Yuanxia Wang

Accurate and automatic clothing pattern making is very important in personalized clothing customization and virtual fitting room applications. Clothing pattern generating as well…

Abstract

Purpose

Accurate and automatic clothing pattern making is very important in personalized clothing customization and virtual fitting room applications. Clothing pattern generating as well as virtual clothing simulation is an attractive research issue both in clothing industry and computer graphics.

Design/methodology/approach

Physics-based method is an effective way to model dynamic process and generate realistic clothing animation. Due to conceptual simplicity and computational speed, mass-spring model is frequently used to simulate deformable and soft objects follow the natural physical rules. We present a physics-based clothing pattern generating framework by using scanned human body model. After giving a scanned human body model, first, we extract feature points, planes and curves on the 3D model by geometric analysis, and then, we construct a remeshed surface which has been formatted to connected quad meshes. Second, for each clothing piece in 3D, we construct a mass-spring model with same topological structures, and conduct a typical time integration algorithm to the mass-spring model. Finally, we get the convergent clothing pieces in 2D of all clothing parts, and we reconnected parts which are adjacent on 3D model to generate the basic clothing pattern.

Findings

The results show that the presented method is a feasible way for clothing pattern generating by use of scanned human body model.

Originality/value

The main contribution of this work is twofold: one is the geometric algorithm to scanned human body model, which is specially conducted for clothing pattern design to extract feature points, planes and curves. This is the crucial base for suit clothing pattern generating. Another is the physics-based pattern generating algorithm which flattens the 3D shape to 2D shape of cloth pattern pieces.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 January 2024

Haisang Liu, Gaoming Jiang and Zhijia Dong

The warp-knitted fully-formed shorts are one kind of fully-formed garments knitted by a double-needle bar machine, which is widely used in the medical field. Because of its…

Abstract

Purpose

The warp-knitted fully-formed shorts are one kind of fully-formed garments knitted by a double-needle bar machine, which is widely used in the medical field. Because of its distinctive forming method, designers are unable to grasp the final effect of the product accurately during the design process. The purpose of this paper is to clarify a visible 3D simulation method in the design process along with the knitting method and structure characteristics, which is reflected in the final product effect.

Design/methodology/approach

This study introduces a simulation process for warp-knitted fully-formed fabric from an input 3D surface model group. Stitch mesh models are established according to the garment structure and the triangle index of the garment model that swchape-controlling points belong to is calculated. The garment model group includes a 2D plate and a 3D model, between which there is a space coordinate transformation relationship. The study makes use of the 3D tubes to connect the coordinate points in order and render the tubes in real yarn colors. The effects of two parameters, radial segment and tubular segment, are analyzed and decided to obtain a fine surface within a reasonable rendering time.

Findings

A stereoscopic simulation process from flat fabric to 3D product is realized using computer graphics technology. The warp-knitted fully-formed short is shown during the design process within a short time by setting the rendering parameters of tubular segments (ts = 125) and radial segments (rs = 6).

Originality/value

Visual simulation for the shorts provides a time-saving and resource-saving method for structure design and parameter modification before knitting. There is no need to knit samples repeatedly to satisfy demand, which indicates that it is a saver of time and resources.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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