Search results
1 – 10 of over 16000Arzu Vuruskan and Susan P. Ashdown
The design and testing of clothing for activewear requires complex assessments of the suitability of the clothing when the body is in motion. The purpose of this paper is to…
Abstract
Purpose
The design and testing of clothing for activewear requires complex assessments of the suitability of the clothing when the body is in motion. The purpose of this paper is to investigate full body 3D scanning of active body poses in order to develop “watertight” digital models and half-scale dress forms to facilitate design, pattern making and fit analyses. Issues around creating a size set of scans in order to facilitate fit testing of activewear across a size range were also explored.
Design/methodology/approach
Researchers experimented to discover effective methods for 3D body capture in the cycling position and reconstruction of the body in a reliable way. In total, 25 cyclists were scanned and size representatives were selected from these participants. Methods of creating half-scale forms were developed that make optimum use of modern materials and technologies. Half-scale dress forms were created in two active positions in a range of sizes for fit testing and design. A set of half-scale and full-scale bike shorts in two styles were manufactured and fit tested on the half-scale forms compared to fit testing on the scan participants to test validity of this method of assessing fit.
Findings
Issues in capturing and reconstructing areas occluded in the scanning process, and reconstructing the interface with the bicycle seat were addressed. Active digital forms were developed across the size range, from which both digital avatars and physical mannequins were developed for pattern development and fit testing. The production and use of precisely half-scaled tools for garment testing was achieved and validated by comparing fit test results in active positions on the half-scale forms and on participants who were scanned to create these forms.
Originality/value
Design modifications for active positions to date are based on linear measurements alone, which do not define the 3D body adequately. Despite much research using body scanners, only limited data exist on the body in active poses, and the concept of creating half-scale forms by scanning fit models throughout the size range in active body positions is a novel concept. The progress made in resolving material and process experiments in creating the actual half-scale forms, and testing their suitability for fit testing provides a basis for further research aimed at developing similar dress forms for other activewear garments.
Details
Keywords
Che-Chih Tsao, Ho-Hsin Chang, Meng-Hao Liu, Ho-Chia Chen, Yun-Tang Hsu, Pei-Ying Lin, Yih-Lin Chou, Ying-Chieh Chao, Yun-Hui Shen, Cheng-Yi Huang, Kai-Chiang Chan and Yi-Hung Chen
The purpose of this paper is to propose and demonstrate a new additive manufacturing approach that breaks the layer-based point scanning limitations to increase fabrication speed…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to propose and demonstrate a new additive manufacturing approach that breaks the layer-based point scanning limitations to increase fabrication speed, obtain better surface finish, achieve material flexibility and reduce equipment costs.
Design/methodology/approach
The freeform additive manufacturing approach conceptually views a 3D article as an assembly of freeform elements distributed spatially following a flexible 3D assembly structure, which conforms to the surface of the article and physically builds the article by sequentially forming the freeform elements by a vari-directional vari-dimensional capable material deposition mechanism. Vari-directional building along tangential directions of part surface gives surface smoothness. Vari-dimensional deposition maximizes material output to increase build rate wherever allowed and minimizes deposition sizes for resolution whenever needed.
Findings
Process steps based on geometric and data processing considerations were described. Dispensing and forming of basic vari-directional and vari-dimensional freeform elements and basic operations of joining them were developed using thermoplastics. Forming of 3D articles at build rates of 2-5 times the fused deposition modeling (FDM) rate was demonstrated and improvement over ten times was shown to be feasible. FDM compatible operations using 0.7 mm wire depositions from a variable exit-dispensing unit were demonstrated. Preliminary tests of a surface finishing process showed a result of 0.8-1.9 um Ra. Initial results of dispensing wax, tin alloy and steel were also shown.
Originality/value
This is the first time that both vari-directional and vari-dimensional material depositions are combined in a new freeform building method, which has potential impact on the FDM and other additive manufacturing methods.
Details
Keywords
C.H.M. Hardaker and G.J.W. Fozzard
States that there has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment. Although…
Abstract
States that there has been considerable interest in recent years over the development of a computer system to provide the garment designer with a 3D design environment. Although the use of such technology is commonplace in many industries, the problems associated with the development of a suitable system for garment design have yet to be fully resolved. Envisages that such a system would provide the tools to develop a 3D simulation of a prototype garment which can be viewed from any angle prior to making a physical sample. This combined with the facility to develop the corresponding 2D pattern shapes and evaluate the fit of the virtual garment make the prospect of such a system extremely enticing. Considers the need for 3D working methods in garment design and the research issues involved in the development of a 3D computer aided design (CAD) system for garment design. The potential features of such a system are introduced in the context of a hypothetical system. Discusses the approach of a number of researchers in the field and considers future developments.
Details
Keywords
Aijun Zhang, Xinxin Li, Pibo Ma, Ying Xiong and Gaoming Jiang
Realistic geometric description is essential for simulating physical properties of warp-knitted velvet fabrics, which are widely used for home-textiles and garments. The purpose…
Abstract
Purpose
Realistic geometric description is essential for simulating physical properties of warp-knitted velvet fabrics, which are widely used for home-textiles and garments. The purpose of this paper is to provide an approach to the description of patterned piles and propose a customized simulation model to realize highly real-time simulation of warp-knitted velvet fabrics in three dimensions.
Design/methodology/approach
Based on knitting technology and structure features, a mathematical model to qualify forming possibility of piles is conducted by assessing underlaps of pattern bars and pile ground bars. When the pile areas and ground areas are classified, a three-dimensional (3D) space coordinate is built, of which the z-axis is divided into equal spaces to form certain multi-layer textured slices. Color and transparency of piles on each textured slice can be computed and generated by mapping to 3D geometrical grid layers with particular mapping relationship. Moreover, piles’ deflection and spatial collision are also taken into account to make sure high uniformity with real fabrics.
Findings
According to the models built, a simulator special for warp-knitted patterned velvet fabrics is programed via Visual C++ and the models are proven practical and easily implemented by comparing simulated effect of one sample with real fabric.
Research limitations/implications
Because of present limited research, 3D simulation of patterned velvet fabrics knitted on double-needle bar Raschel machine as well as 3D shadow effect will be studied in the further research.
Practical implications
The paper includes implications for designing patterned velvet products and shows convenience to instantly see finished effect without sampling on machine.
Originality/value
This paper fulfills a featured simulation method for warp-knitted patterned velvet fabrics in 3D dimensions for the first time.
Details
Keywords
Ruifan Chang and Maxwell Fordjour Antwi-Afari
The application of three-dimensional (3D) printing technology in construction projects is of increasing interest to researchers and construction practitioners. Although the…
Abstract
Purpose
The application of three-dimensional (3D) printing technology in construction projects is of increasing interest to researchers and construction practitioners. Although the application of 3D printing technology at various stages of the project lifecycle has been explored, few studies have identified the relative importance of critical success factors (CSFs) for implementing 3D printing technology in construction projects. To address this research gap, this study aims to explore the academics (i.e. researchers) and construction practitioners’ perspectives on CSFs for implementing 3D printing technology in construction projects.
Design/methodology/approach
To do this, a questionnaire was administered to participants (i.e. academics and construction practitioners) with knowledge and expertise in 3D printing technology in construction projects. The collected data were analysed using mean score ranking, normalization and rank agreement analysis to identify CSFs and determine the consistency of the ranking of CSFs between academics and construction practitioners. In addition, exploratory factor analysis was used to identify the relationships and underlying constructs of the measured CSFs.
Findings
Through a rank agreement analysis of the collected data, 11 CSFs for implementing 3D printing technology were retrieved (i.e. 17% agreement), indicating a diverse agreement in the ranking of the CSFs between academics and construction practitioners. In addition, the results show three key components of CSFs including “production demand enabling CSFs”, “optimize the construction process enabling CSFs” and “optimized design enabling CSFs”.
Originality/value
This study highlights the feasibility of implementing the identified CSFs for 3D printing technology in construction projects, which not only serves as a reference for other researchers but also increases construction practitioners’ awareness of the practical benefits of implementing 3D printing technology in construction projects. Specifically, it would optimize the construction lifecycle processes, enhance digital transformation and promote sustainable construction projects.
Details
Keywords
Aleksei Moskvin, Mariia Moskvina and Victor Kuzmichev
Digital technologies are widely used for digitization of museum and archival heritage and creation of digital, multimedia and online exhibitions, especially in terms of costume…
Abstract
Purpose
Digital technologies are widely used for digitization of museum and archival heritage and creation of digital, multimedia and online exhibitions, especially in terms of costume history. Digital exhibitions require historical dress forms which were used in the past for costume presentation. The purpose of this paper is to develop a new method for parametric modeling of the nineteenth century dress forms in accordance with fashionable body shape.
Design/methodology/approach
Due to limited number of body measurements in historical sizing tables, it is impossible to redesign the morphology of old fashionable body with high accuracy by means of contemporary CAD. The developed method is based on two sources of information: first, historical sizing tables with body measurements; second, historical corsets. By combining both resources and applying virtual try-on technology, the full anthropometric database about the nineteenth century fashionable body shape has been organized and the parametric model of historical dress form has been generated.
Findings
The digital replica of deformable parametric dress form was created automatically in accordance with the historical sizing systems and the corsets construction. The process of reproduction of a historical dress form has been done with high accuracy due to substantial advantages of contemporary software.
Originality/value
This study shows new way of anthropometric data generating from the construction of close-fitting and compression undergarments. The developed method and the new database can be applied for each type of dress forms which were used in the second part of the nineteenth century to generate its digital replica in virtual reality. The new approach is joining the digital technologies and the professional knowledge as an important part of cultural heritage for studying, recreating and presenting historical costume.
Details
Keywords
Abu Sadat Muhammad Sayem, Richard Kennon, Nick Clarke and Steven George Hayes
The purpose of this paper is to identify optimum operating parameters, namely, link-length and vertex angle, for producing virtual clothing prototypes for the purpose of pattern…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to identify optimum operating parameters, namely, link-length and vertex angle, for producing virtual clothing prototypes for the purpose of pattern flattening.
Design/methodology/approach
Commercially available physically based simulation and flattening engines were utilized to carry out the computational part of this study. Two separately developed 3D garment templates were used for the creation of virtual garments in the form of a triangulated mesh and later for pattern unwrapping by taking differential link-lengths and vertex angles into account to ascertain their effects on the mesh quality and on the ultimate pattern flattening process.
Findings
It has been found that a link-length between 10 and 15 mm and a vertex angle between 120° and 160° are optimum for the virtual clothing prototyping process.
Practical implications
The findings of this study can universally be applied to simplify the tasks of virtual clothing prototyping and pattern unwrapping using commercial software packages.
Originality/value
Previously, there has not been any guidance available for the selection of specific operational parameters to promote 3D garment design.
Details
Keywords
Chongjun Wu, Yutian Chen, Xinyi Wei, Junhao Xu and Dongliu Li
This paper is devoted to prepare micro-cone structure with variable cross-section size by Stereo Lithography Appearance (SLA)-based 3D additive manufacturing technology. It is…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper is devoted to prepare micro-cone structure with variable cross-section size by Stereo Lithography Appearance (SLA)-based 3D additive manufacturing technology. It is mainly focused on analyzing the forming mechanism of equipment and factors affecting the forming quality and accuracy, investigating the influence of forming process parameters on the printing quality and optimization of the printing quality. This study is expected to provide a µ-SLA surface preparation technology and process parameters selection with low cost, high precision and short preparation period for microstructure forming.
Design/methodology/approach
The µ-SLA process is optimized based on the variable cross-section micro-cone structure printing. Multi-index analysis method was used to analyze the influence of process parameters. The process parameter influencing order is determined and validated with flawless micro array structure.
Findings
After the optimization analysis of the top diameter size, the bottom diameter size and the overall height, the influence order of the printing process parameters on the quality of the micro-cone forming is: exposure time (B), print layer thickness (A) and number of vibrations (C). The optimal scheme is A1B3C1, that is, the layer thickness of 5 µm, the exposure time of 3000 ms and the vibration of 64x. At this time, the cone structure with the bottom diameter of 50 µm and the cone angle of 5° could obtain a better surface structure.
Originality/value
This study is expected to provide a µ-SLA surface preparation technology and process parameters selection with low cost, high precision and short preparation period for microstructure forming.
Details
Keywords
This paper gives a review of the finite element techniques (FE)applied in the area of material processing. The latest trends in metalforming, non‐metal forming and powder…
Abstract
This paper gives a review of the finite element techniques (FE) applied in the area of material processing. The latest trends in metal forming, non‐metal forming and powder metallurgy are briefly discussed. The range of applications of finite elements on the subjects is extremely wide and cannot be presented in a single paper; therefore the aim of the paper is to give FE users only an encyclopaedic view of the different possibilities that exist today in the various fields mentioned above. An appendix included at the end of the paper presents a bibliography on finite element applications in material processing for the last five years, and more than 1100 references are listed.
Details
Keywords
Ilse Valenzuela Matus, Jorge Lino Alves, Joaquim Góis, Paulo Vaz-Pires and Augusto Barata da Rocha
The purpose of this paper is to review cases of artificial reefs built through additive manufacturing (AM) technologies and analyse their ecological goals, fabrication process…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to review cases of artificial reefs built through additive manufacturing (AM) technologies and analyse their ecological goals, fabrication process, materials, structural design features and implementation location to determine predominant parameters, environmental impacts, advantages, and limitations.
Design/methodology/approach
The review analysed 16 cases of artificial reefs from both temperate and tropical regions. These were categorised based on the AM process used, the mortar material used (crucial for biological applications), the structural design features and the location of implementation. These parameters are assessed to determine how effectively the designs meet the stipulated ecological goals, how AM technologies demonstrate their potential in comparison to conventional methods and the preference locations of these implementations.
Findings
The overview revealed that the dominant artificial reef implementation occurs in the Mediterranean and Atlantic Seas, both accounting for 24%. The remaining cases were in the Australian Sea (20%), the South Asia Sea (12%), the Persian Gulf and the Pacific Ocean, both with 8%, and the Indian Sea with 4% of all the cases studied. It was concluded that fused filament fabrication, binder jetting and material extrusion represent the main AM processes used to build artificial reefs. Cementitious materials, ceramics, polymers and geopolymer formulations were used, incorporating aggregates from mineral residues, biological wastes and pozzolan materials, to reduce environmental impacts, promote the circular economy and be more beneficial for marine ecosystems. The evaluation ranking assessed how well their design and materials align with their ecological goals, demonstrating that five cases were ranked with high effectiveness, ten projects with moderate effectiveness and one case with low effectiveness.
Originality/value
AM represents an innovative method for marine restoration and management. It offers a rapid prototyping technique for design validation and enables the creation of highly complex shapes for habitat diversification while incorporating a diverse range of materials to benefit environmental and marine species’ habitats.
Details