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Inter-fibre cohesion is regarded as an important property of assemblies, such as slivers, made of wool or any other fibres, with respect to the processing in carding, drawing (gilling) and spinning. In this paper, the results of the multiple regression analyses, and their validation, are presented to show that a strong relationship exists between the sliver cohesion (measured as sliver tenacity and sliver specific energy-to-break in a long-gauge tensile test) and a combination of the standard wool properties, such as bulk, mean fibre length (Barbe), mean fibre diameter and medullation content, used for the objective blend specification of New Zealand wools for marketing and processing.

The purpose of this paper is to derive a new method for the hydrophilic finishing of wool fabric.

A new biological catalyst, microbial transglutaminase (mTGase), was used to catalyze the grafting of ε‐poly‐L‐lysine (ε‐PLL) onto the wool fabric.

The K/S value, SEM morphology and DSC analysis proved that the grafting reaction occurred. The hydrophilic properties of the ε‐PLL‐grafted wool fabrics were studied. The results showed that the grafted ε‐PLL could increase the hydrophilicity, which was demonstrated in terms of the obvious shortening in the wetting time and the process of water absorption and moisture absorption. The grafted wool also achieved better antistatic property.

Future work could be focused on the application of this biological method on other protein fabric which was designed to change the performance.

The biological approach is safe, eco‐friendly and effective relative to the conventional methods.

The aim of this study is to determine the fracture behavior of wool felt and fabric based epoxy composites and their responses to electromagnetic waves.

Notched and unnotched tensile tests of composites made of wool only and hybridized with a glass fiber layer were carried out, and fracture behavior and toughness at macro scale were determined. They were exposed to electromagnetic waves between 8 and 18 GHz frequencies using two horn antennas.

The keratin and lignin layer on the surface of the wool felt caused lower values to be obtained compared to the mechanical values given by pure epoxy. However, the use of wool felt in the symmetry layer of the laminated composite material provided higher mechanical values than the composite with glass fiber in the symmetry layer due to the mechanical interlocking it created. The use of wool in fabric form resulted in an increase in the modulus of elasticity, but no change in fracture toughness was observed. As a result of the electromagnetic analysis, it was also seen in the electromagnetic analysis that the transmittance of the materials was high, and the reflectance was low throughout the applied frequency range. Hence, it was concluded that all of the manufactured materials could be used as radome material over a wide band.

Sheep wool is an easy-to-supply and low-cost material. In this paper, it is presented that sheep wool can be evaluated as a biocomposite material and used for radome applications.

The combined evaluation of felt and fabric forms of a natural and inexpensive reinforcing element such as sheep wool and the combined evaluation of fracture mechanics and electromagnetic absorption properties will contribute to the evaluation of biocomposites in aviation.

South Africa’s wool industry plays an important role in the agricultural sector. The wool industry provides a valuable source of income for farmers who practice sustainable farming practices. However, wool farmers face numerous challenges, such as wool contamination, dirty wool and producing good-quality wool. Good-quality wool is determined by fibre diameter, clean yield, vegetable matter and staple length. This study aims to address these challenges.

A multiple regression analysis of price (R/kg) of White wool and Merino wool was applied to four variables fibre diameter: vegetable matter, clean yield and staple length. The analysis was based on the data for the 2009–2019 data from Cape Wools auctions.

Fibre diameter, clean yield and staple length, with exception of vegetable matter, made a statistically significant contribution to the determination of wool price after all other independent variables were controlled for (p < 0.05). A one-unit (micron) increase in fibre diameter resulted in a 0.404-unit decrease in wool price (R/kg). A one-unit (mm) increase in staple length resulted in a 0.022-unit increase in wool price (R/kg). There was no statistically significant association between vegetable matter and wool price. A one-unit increase in clean yield was associated with a 0.111-unit increase in wool price (R/kg).

Since wool fleeces consist of the largest portion of wool shorn from sheep, it is important for wool farmers to focus on wool with low fibre diameter, high clean yield percentage, low percentage of vegetable matter content and good length of the wool.

Since wool fleeces consist of the largest portion of wool shorn from sheep, it is important for wool farmers to focus on wool with low fibre diameter, high clean yield percentage, low percentage of vegetable matter content and good length of the wool.

In a developing country such as South Africa, this study is important for the following reason. It is understanding the wool characteristics that have the most significance influence on the determination of wool price for Merino wool and White wool might effectively help the wool farmers to adapt their production systems to improve the wool characteristics that determine wool price.

This study identified a need for a study to be conducted on all wool classes.

The South African wool industry is integral to the country's agricultural sector, particularly sheep farming and wool production. Small-scale farmers play a vital role in this industry and contribute to employment and food security in rural communities. However, these farmers face numerous challenges, including a lack of funding, poor farming practices and difficulty selling their wool at fair prices. This study aims to address these challenges, the University of Free State launched a wool value chain project for small-scale farmers.

In this project, one of the studies conducted assessed the effectiveness of different detergents suitable for traditional wool scouring methods for small-scale farmers who lack access to sophisticated machinery. The investigation was conducted by scouring 160 wool samples using three different detergents and filtered water as a control. The wool samples were then evaluated for their cleanliness, brightness and fibre properties through a combination of scanning electron microscopy, spectrophotometry and statistical analysis at different scouring times (3, 10, 15 and 20 min, respectively).

The results showed that the combination of scouring time and the type of scouring solution used could significantly impact wool quality. It was found that using a combination of standard detergent or Woolwash as a scouring solution with a scouring time of 10–15 min resulted in the best outcome in terms of fibre property, wool colour and scouring loss.

This study demonstrated that traditional wool scouring methods could be an option for small-scale farmers and anyone who want to learn how to scour wool without expensive machinery to make wool products.

Wool, mainly composed of keratin, is a relatively high-grade clothing material. Although woollen textile has the advantages of high wearing comfort and excellent warmth retention property as we have known, its inherent disadvantage of easy pilling has easy puzzled people for a long time. Most of the existing technologies for pilling resistance are not eco-friendly or severely damaged the internal structure of wool.

In this work, a controlled and effective surface treatment method was proposed to controllable micro-dissolution the scale layers of wool with minor damage to its internal structure, thereby improving the anti-pilling property of wool. Thiourea dioxide (TD) is used as a dissolving agent to swell and dissolve wool surface flakes. After TD treatment, the morphology changes of wool fibers were observed by scanning electron microscope (SEM) and methylene blue staining. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and X-ray diffraction (XRD) were used to characterize the structural changes of TD wool. At the same time, the anti-pilling properties and wettability of wool fabrics were tested.

The results show that the wool scale layer is destroyed after TD treatment, which reduces the friction between fibers and improves the anti-pilling performance of wool fabrics. The methylene blue-stained images further demonstrate that low concentrations of TD can damage the superficial scale layer of wool without significant loss of strength.

This method is simple, eco-friendly and economical, and opens up a new direction for the surface treatment of wool fabrics.

Catechu liquor, which is deep brown-red in color, was purified with a micro-filtration membrane and the stability of catechu dye to different levels of temperatures and pH were investigated in this paper. The effects of the dyeing conditions on color characteristic values and color fastnesses of the dyed wool fabrics were also investigated. The results show that the liquor of catechu dye is stable at pH values of 3-7 and its color changes to a deeper brown-red when its pH value is above 8. The preferable dyeing conditions for wool fabric with refined powder catechu dye are as follows: dyeing temperature of 100±C, pH value of 6.5 for the dye bath and catechu dye of 1-4% (o.w.f).

The dyed wool fabric has good color fastnesses to washing, alkali perspiration and dry rubbing. However, its color fastness rating to wet rubbing is poor, ranging from 2-3. Further research will be needed on this aspect.

In recent times, wool- and silk-blended fabrics are popular for creating glamourous products. Silk is blended to wool for creating more lustrous effect and to impart strength; on the other hand, wool is responsible for resilience, softness and warmth properties. Chemically both the fibres are protein-based, but the amount of amino acids is different. Due to this, the dye absorption behaviours of the two fibres from the same dye-bath are different. Wool is become darker than the silk fibre, if both the fibres are dyed together in a single bath dyeing process.

Here the wool fibres are first pre-treated with a commercial synthetic tanning agent (syntan) Mesitol HWS at three different pH values of 2.2, 3.2 and 4.2 and at three different concentrations: 5, 10 and 15 per cent. Then the syntan pre-treated wool fibres are dyed together with silk fibres maintaining the blend ratio as 80:20 by Telon Red MR, Telon Yellow M4GL and Telon Blue MRLW with sodium sulphate at three different concentrations of 10, 20 and 30 per cent.

The dye absorbency of the syntan-treated wool fibres decreased with increase in syntan concentration, whereas the colour strength of silk fibres increased. The resist effectiveness of wool fibres is increased from 6 to 59 per cent with increase of syntan concentration. So after the dyeing process, the colour strength of syntan-treated wool fibres are almost same with the colour strength of silk fibres. The washing fastness of the samples is improved, and wash fastness behaviour of both wool and silk fibres is almost same.

This paper gives an idea about the one bath dyeing process of wool- and silk-blended fabrics to achieve solid dyeing effect.

The purpose of this study is simultaneous dyeing and mordanting of wool yarns with extracted cochineal dye and aluminum sulfate to the reduction of consuming energy, water and time.

The dyeing process was optimized using the response surface methodology (RSM) approach. pH, dyeing duration and the presence of additives were chosen as variables and the color strength of samples as a response. The color characteristics and fastness attributes of samples dyed in the best condition were evaluated and compared to pre-mordant dyeing outcomes on wool yarns.

The best conditions for deep dyeing wool with cochineal dye were as follows: pH 2.5, time 110 min and the ratio of aluminum: additives 1:0 at 100 °C. Color strength of dyed wool yarns by one-bath and pre-mordant dyeing methods were approximately the same. Wool yarns can dye to the on-bath dyeing method such that the dyed samples have similar color strength and fastness properties to pre-mordant dyeing.

Wool dyeing processes that use one-bath dyeing consume less water and produce fewer effluents. As a result, this strategy conserves water and energy for a higher quality of life. The findings of this study, in general, aid environmental protection.

A novel one-bath process for dyeing wool with cochineal dye at heavy depths is introduced. RSM was used to optimize the procedure and determine effective parameters on the color strength of dyed wools. Using extracted cochineal dye and aluminum sulfate in a simultaneous dyeing technique, good color fastness qualities on wool fibers were achieved.

This study has focussed on three main areas. First, an evaluation of the physical attributes of cashmere tops available to commercial spinners; second, the influence of processing variables on the efficiency of producing cashmere tops from raw Australian cashmere; and third, the influence of design of cashmere ultrafine wool blends on the fibre curvature of tops. Testing the physical attributes of cashmere tops from traditional and new sources of supply, was followed by statistical analyses based on factors of origin, processor and other determinants. The analyses demonstrated important processor effects and also that cashmere from different origins shows commercially important variations in fibre attributes. It was possible to efficiently produce Australian cashmere tops with Hauteur, tenacity, extension, softness and residual guard hairs quality attributes equivalent to those observed in the best cashmere tops. The blending of cashmere with wool resulted in a reduction of the mean fibre curvature of the blend compared with the unblended wool. The present work demonstrated that the fibre curvature properties of blended low crimp ultrafine wool tops were closer to the properties of pure cashmere tops than were tops made from blended standard high crimp ultrafine wool. The attributes of textiles made from the relatively rare Australian low curvature cashmere could enhance the marketability of both Australian cashmere and low curvature wool.