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This paper critiques institutional whiteness and racial categorisation in UK higher education. This is done through the representation of the complex narratives of “mixed race” women navigating their PhD experiences in predominantly white institutions, when their identities have proximity to whiteness.

This study introduces five vignettes of “mixed race” women, gathered from a wider study of 27 PhDs and early career researchers in UK higher education. The paper employs Yuval-Davis’ framework of belonging and bell hooks' approach to chosen versus forced marginality to create a conceptual framework based on fluid agency and empowerment, recognising belonging as an ongoing process.

The findings reveal how “mixed race” women can occupy a liminal space between belonging to and rejecting racial categorisation, as they attempted to situate their self-identifications within the boundaries of institutional whiteness.

The study only utilises a small sample size of five counter-stories from a larger study on PhD career trajectories, limiting its empirical claims. It also only engages with “mixed race” women who have proximity to whiteness, encouraging research on different “mixed race” intersections.

This paper encourages more discussion around “mixed race” experiences of UK higher education and critical engagement with higher education’s reliance on statistical data to understand racialised communities.

This paper contributes new empirical insights into how whiteness is experienced when “mixed race” women negotiate their relation to it in UK higher education. It also provides theoretical advancements into understanding of institutional whiteness and critically engages with racial categorisation.

Face masks are the most recommended precautionary measure since the emergence of SARS-CoV-2 since 2020 and the most useful PPE against this virus and its variants so far. This study aims to develop reusable and biodegradable mask from 100% regenerated bamboo or/and its blend. Selection of natural and regenerated textile materials is to minimize generation of solid waste. This attempt will eventually protect our earth by minimizing or better discontinuing the production of the disposable nonbiodegradable face masks available worldwide.

Hundred percent regenerated bamboo and 50:50 bamboo:cotton were selected to knit plain and interlock fabrics for manufacturing of reusable sustainable face masks. A 2³ 3²-mixed-level factorial design was applied to study the effect of liquor ratio and temperatures, fabric structure, blend ratios and finishes at three different levels. Model 2³ 3² has two factors (liquor ratio and temperatures) at three levels and three factors (fabric structure, blend ratios and type of finish) at two levels. Knitted fabrics were then applied with antibacterial finishes; sanitized T99-19 and sanitized T27-22, separately at three different liquor ratios (1:10, 1:12 and 1:15) and temperatures (45, 55 and 65 °C) via exhaust method. After completing processing, fabric thickness, pilling resistance, dimensional stability, bursting strength, Berger whiteness index, air permeability and antibacterial properties of each trial were evaluated using standard test procedures.

Selected fabrics treated either by sanitized T27 or sanitized T99 in a liquor ratio of 1:15 against 65 °C, showed excellent bacteriostatic/bactericidal activity. However, 100% regenerated bamboo interlock knitted fabric treated with sanitized T99 in a liquor ratio of 1:15 at 65 °C has the most desired values of dimensional stability, pilling resistance, Berger whiteness, fabric thickness, air permeability and bursting strength which made it the best for the manufacturing of the masks. Reusable mask is comprised of three layers in which the first and the third layers were of selected 100% regenerated bamboo fabric while a PM2.5 filter was inserted in between. Bacterial filtration efficiency, particle filtration efficiency, biocompatibility and microbial cleanliness will be evaluated in future, to compare the performance of proposed reusable and biodegradable face mask with N95 masks and other fabric masks available commercially.

This study resulted in a development of reusable eco-friendly facemask which was not attempted by the preceding investigations. Outcomes of this work pave the way for a greener and safer earth by using easily obtainable regenerated bamboo fabrics, antibacterial finishes and knitted structures.

The purpose of this paper is to further theorize BlackCrit to include a deeper focus on the framing idea of Black liberatory fantasy via Afrofuturism.

To develop the theoretical connections, the author revisits their previous scholarship on Black girls’ Afrofuturist storytelling practices to elucidate how the girls used their speculative narratives to critique the antiblackness present in their schools and the world at large and to create future worlds in which they have the power to create the world anew.

This paper discusses the relationship between BlackCrit and Afrofuturism by considering three interrelated ideas: how Afrofuturism acknowledges the antiblackness embedded in the USA; how BlackCrit makes space for liberatory Black futures and otherwise worlds; and how each theoretical idea inherently complements the other.

This paper creatively uses a hip hop album as a foundation for the portrayal of the intricate connections between Black pasts, presents and futures. As a conceptual paper, it pushes educators and researchers to consider the call and response between antiblackness and Black futurity.

The purpose of this paper is to generate nitrogen-containing groups in the cotton fabric surface via low-temperature nitrogen plasma as an eco-friendly physical/zero-effluent process. This was done for rendering cotton dye-able with Acid Blue 284, which in fact does not have any direct affinity to fix on it.

Dyeing characteristics of the samples such as color strength (K/S), fastness properties to light, rubbing and perspiration and durability, as well as tensile strength, elongation at break, whiteness, weight loss and wettability in addition to zeta potential of the dyed samples, were determined and compared with untreated fabric. Confirmation and characterization of the plasma-treated samples via chemical modifications and zeta potential was also studied using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and Malvern Zetasizer instrumental analysis.

The obtained results of the plasma-treated fabric reflect the following findings: FTIR results indicate the formation of nitrogen-containing groups on cotton fabrics; notable enhancement in the fabric wettability, zeta potential to more positive values and improvement in the dyeability and overall fastness properties of treated cotton fabrics in comparison with untreated fabric; the tensile strength, elongation at break, whiteness and weight % of the plasma treated fabrics are lower than that untreated one; and the durability of the plasma treated fabric decreased with increasing the number of washing cycles.

The novelty addressed here is rendering cotton fabrics dye-able with acid dye via the creation of new cationic nitrogen-containing groups on their surface via nitrogen plasma treatment as an eco-friendly and efficient tool with a physical/zero-effluent process.

This study aims to embed anatase, rutile and brookite TiO₂ nanoparticles (NPs) with different crystal phases into cotton fabrics by epoxy silane and to examine the effect of these applications on the photocatalytic and mechanical properties of the fabric.

Different aqueous dispersions which contain anatase, rutile and brookite were prepared at three different concentrations (5%, 10% and 15%). These NPs were embedded in cotton fabrics by using GPTS [(3-glycidyloxypropyl) trimethoxysilane]. Characterization tests were performed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), Raman and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT/IR). Samples were stained with methylene blue (MB) and then exposed to solar light for different periods. Color changes of the samples were examined with a spectrophotometer. Air permeability, abrasion and tear strength tests were applied to all samples.

According to SEM images, the NPs were successfully attached to the cotton fabrics, and epoxy silane coating surrounded the fiber surfaces. The presence of the coating was also confirmed by Raman spectroscopy and FT/IR. The treatments reduced the stainability of the samples. The most effective applications for ensuring photocatalytic activity in cotton fabrics were suspensions as 10% brookite, 10% anatase and 5% anatase, in descending order. The applied coating slightly reduced the samples’ air permeability, and wear and tear strength.

The importance of this study is to determine the optimal crystal phase and its concentration by using epoxy silane to ensure self-cleaning properties on cotton fabrics. The sample treated with 10% brookite is the most approached its original white color by 99.65% as a result of degradation of MB (after 120 min). On the other hand, using the pure rutile with epoxy silane was not suitable for removing MB from the fabric.

In the denim industry, enzyme washing and its combination with stone washing are generally used to get the desired worn-out look. However, these conventional methods include high water, energy and time consumption. Nowadays, laser fading, which is a computer-controlled, dry, ecological finishing method, is preferred in the denim fading process. The purpose of this study is to observe the effects of chemical pretreatment applications on laser-faded denim fabric in terms of color and mechanical properties. To eliminate the enzyme washing process in denim fading and to minimize the disadvantages of laser fading, such as decreased mechanical properties and increased fabric yellowness, various chemical pretreatment applications were applied to the denim fabric before laser fading, followed by simple rinsing instead of enzyme washing.

Two different indigo-dyed, organic cotton denim fabrics with different unit weights were exposed to pretreatment processes and then laser treatment, followed by simple rinsing. Polysilicic acid, boric acid, borax and bicarbonate were used for pretreatment processes, and laser treatment was carried out under optimized laser parameters (40 dpi resolution and 300 µs pixel time). Tensile strength was tested, and color values (CIE L*, a*, b*, ΔE*, C* and h), color yield (K/S), yellowness and whiteness indexes were measured to identify the color differences.

Before laser fading, 30 g/L and 40 g/L polysilicic acid pretreatments for sulfur-indigo-dyed fabric and a mixture of 10 g/L boric acid and 10 g/L borax pretreatments for the fabric only indigo-dyed were recommended for the laser fading with sufficient mechanical properties and good color values.

With the chemical pretreatments defined in this study, it was possible to reduce yellowness and maintain the mechanical properties after laser fading, thus minimizing the disadvantages of laser treatment and also eliminating enzyme washing.

This study aims to determine the ink removal efficiency of papers with different recycling numbers and to examine some electrophotographic printing properties.

The base papers prepared according to the INGEDE 11p standard are subjected to six recycling stages (RS) under equal conditions. The physical-optical properties of the papers obtained at the end of each RS are measured and CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow, key) color measurement scales are printed on each paper with electrophotographic printing. Color measurements of the printed papers are measured using the X-Rite eXact spectrophotometer, adhering to the ISO 13655:2017 standard. According to the measurement results of the optical properties, the ink removal efficiency of each recycling step is determined as a percentage (%) using some formulas.

As general, according to DEMLab and IERIC data, it is determined that the ink removal efficiency increased as the recycling repetition increased. In DEMf factor values, the highest deinking efficiency is obtained after the fourth RS. There is no significant difference between the printing properties of the samples.

It has been a matter of curiosity that papers lose their properties after how many RS. Many studies have been carried out on this subject and it has been presented by experimental methods that the printability properties of papers increase or decrease after which RS. This study can be a pioneer for future studies.

This paper aims to extracted sericin from the cocoons of Bombyx mori silkworms, and sericin powder was applied onto drawn textured polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarns as a spin finish. The reactivity on the surface of PET yarns was analyzed through Fourier transform infrared spectrophotometry–attenuated total reflectance (FTIR-ATR) and dyeing with methylene blue as a reactive dye. Also, investigations were conducted on the effects of sericin, citrc acid (CA) (as a crosslinking agent), and sodium hypophosphite (as a catalyst) concentrations on some properties of false-twist textured PET yarns.

A false-twist texturing machine (Scragg-Shirley minibulk, England) was used with the draw ratio of 1.05, heating temperature of 120°C, texturing speed of 100 m min⁻¹ and applied twist of 3,000 TPM. The aqueous extraction of sericin was carried out by the boiling of the raw silk in distilled water with L:R: 40:1 for 120 min. The aqueous solution was filtered with a filter paper to remove the impurities and insoluble fibroin. Finally, the sericin solution was freeze-dried to obtain the sericin powder. The sericin solution was applied on the drawn textured PET yarns using the “pad-dry-cure” method.

Sericin fixation onto the PET yarns was confirmed by FTIR-ATR. The results showed that there were no significant changes in the tensile strength, linear density, crimp contraction and crimp modulus, elongation at break and shrinkage. In contrast, a substantial increase was observed in moisture regain, vertical wicking, dye uptake and ultraviolet protection. There was also a reduction just in the electrical resistivity, in the presence of sericin.

Although sericin has been known to have numerous beneficial properties, its application in textile industry as a spin finish has not been reported yet.

The purpose of this paper is to explore teacher candidates’ response to young adult literature (prose and comics) featuring fat identified protagonists. The paper considers the textual and embodied resources readers use and reject when imagining and interpreting a character’s body. This paper explores how readers’ meaning making was influenced when reading prose versus comics. This paper adds to a corpus of scholarship about the relationships between young adult literature, comics, bodies and reader response theory.

At the time of the study, participants were enrolled in a teacher education program at a Midwestern University, meeting monthly for a voluntary book club dedicated to reading and discussing young adult literature. To examine readers’ responses to comics and prose featuring fat-identified protagonists, the author used descriptive qualitative methodologies to conduct a thematic analysis of meeting transcripts, written participant reflections and researcher memos. Analysis was grounded in theories of reader response, critical fat studies and multimodality.

Analyses indicated many readers reject textual clues indicating a character’s body size and weight were different from their own. Readers read their bodies into the stories, regarding them as self-help narratives instead of radical counternarratives. Some readers were not able to read against their assumptions of thinness (and whiteness) until prompted by the researcher and other participants.

Although many reader response scholars have demonstrated readers’ tendencies toward personal identification in the face of racial and class differences, there is less research regarding classroom practices around the entanglement of physical bodies, body image and texts. Analyzing reader’s responses to the constructions of fat bodies in prose versus comics may help English Language Arts (ELA) educators and students identify and deconstruct ideologies of thin-thinking and fatphobia. This study, which demonstrates thin readers’ tendencies to overidentify with protagonists, suggests ELA classrooms might encourage readers to engage in critical literacies that support them in reading both with and against their identities.

Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) has high opacity, high brightness and whiteness, owing to its high refractive index value. It is mainly used in the coating industry and continuous efforts have been made to replace some of the TiO₂ in paint with new pigments. This study aims to replace part of TiO₂ pigment with various percentages of BaSO₄, CaCO₃ and kaolin in styrene butyl acrylate-based paint formulations, without changing the properties of paints using only titanium dioxide.

To determine the optimum use rate of new pigment mixing, opacity, gloss, scrub resistance and weather resistance properties have been investigated in the water-based paint formulation. The morphological properties of these samples were examined by scanning electron microscopy analysis.

In the total color change (ΔE) measurements, it was observed that the sample coded 85Ti/15Ba produced extremely similar results to the situation when TiO₂ was used alone. It was seen that the best results were obtained when 85Ti/15Ba was used instead of TiO₂.

Comparison research on the impact of replacing TiO₂ with BaSO₄, CaCO₃ and kaolin on the performance characteristics of water-based styrene butyl acrylate-based paint formulations has not been done in the literature, according to the literature search.