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1 – 10 of over 1000This chapter examines the everyday experiences of short women, focusing on the problems they face and the coping strategies used to navigate being short in a heightist society…
Abstract
Purpose
This chapter examines the everyday experiences of short women, focusing on the problems they face and the coping strategies used to navigate being short in a heightist society. Further, this chapter views height as a stigmatized identity, which both negatively and positively impacts short women.
Methodology
Sixteen qualitative interviews were conducted with women 5′2″ and under.
Findings
Using the literature on stress, and coping models laid out by social psychologists, this chapter elucidates the unique place of short women in American society.
Originality
While there has been a wealth of literature on how short stature impacts men, research on how short stature impacts women has been scant.
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Youngsook Kim, Hwa Kyung Song and Susan P. Ashdown
The purpose of this paper is to analyze petite women’s body size and figure and investigate whether current petite sizing charts accurately reflect actual petit size women’s…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to analyze petite women’s body size and figure and investigate whether current petite sizing charts accurately reflect actual petit size women’s bodies. This study also categorizes petite women’s body shapes and suggests primary body measurements as a base size for each shape. The ultimate goal is to suggest fundamental body measurements for apparel companies to modify and improve their sizing.
Design/methodology/approach
This study used data from SizeUSA data to compare body measurements of 18-35-year-old petite women to regular women. The authors compared the results to measurement differences between petite and regular sizing charts of 14 apparel companies. Then, using the principal component analysis and cluster analysis, the authors classified petite women’s body shapes. Body measurements for each body type are contrasted with the current petite sizing charts, and then, the authors present differences as suggestions for modification and improvement of petite sizing.
Findings
Industry sizing system do not generally represent average petite size women preciously except for stature. Within the petite women, four body types were identified (top petite: 30.0 percent, bottom petite: 30.8 percent, regular petite: 23.6 percent, and plus size: 15.4 percent). Of the four groups, the ASTM D7878 generally represented the “top petite” sizing.
Originality/value
It is the first to analyze the industry petite sizing system utilizing population data and focus petite sizing for women aged 18-35. The authors believe this study could draw attention of the apparel industry, providing companies with ideas of how to improve their petite sizing for young women.
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While there has been a significant amount of research conducted on growth hormone (GH) in the field of medicine, very few studies have actually examined the experience from the…
Abstract
While there has been a significant amount of research conducted on growth hormone (GH) in the field of medicine, very few studies have actually examined the experience from the vantage point of adults who were treated for short stature as children. On the basis of in-depth interviews with three women and two men, I explore the experiences of those who have firsthand knowledge of such treatment. What becomes clear in these narratives is that GH serves as both a normalizing and a stigmatizing force for the recipient. More broadly, this study seeks to contribute to the growing body of research on issues of physical appearance that plant the seeds for unequal treatment of individuals by society.
Gregori Galofré-Vilà, Andrew Hinde and Aravinda Meera Guntupalli
This chapter uses a dataset of heights calculated from the femurs of skeletal remains to explore the development of stature in England across the last two millennia. We find that…
Abstract
This chapter uses a dataset of heights calculated from the femurs of skeletal remains to explore the development of stature in England across the last two millennia. We find that heights increased during the Roman period and then steadily fell during the “Dark Ages” in the early medieval period. At the turn of the first millennium, heights grew rapidly, but after 1200 they started to decline coinciding with the agricultural depression, the Great Famine, and the Black Death. Then they recovered to reach a plateau which they maintained for almost 300 years, before falling on the eve of industrialization. The data show that average heights in England in the early nineteenth century were comparable to those in Roman times, and that average heights reported between 1400 and 1700 were similar to those of the twentieth century. This chapter also discusses the association of heights across time with some potential determinants and correlates (real wages, inequality, food supply, climate change, and expectation of life), showing that in the long run heights change with these variables, and that in certain periods, notably the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, the associations are observable over the shorter run as well. We also examine potential biases surrounding the use of skeletal remains.
John Patrick Turner and Terry Bond
A computer system for made‐to‐measure pattern production should have the capability of determining default measurements for sets of customer measurements input to the system where…
Abstract
A computer system for made‐to‐measure pattern production should have the capability of determining default measurements for sets of customer measurements input to the system where one or more of these measurements are missing. This paper recommends the use of default formulae rather than mathematical interpolation of size charts. These default formulae, when applied to a given size chart set, enable measurements to be determined efficiently over wide ranging customer sizes in both stature and girth. The specific default formulae for the German DOB charts are derived for Regular and Outsize charts and also for the full range of Height categories and Bust to Hip relationships, so that all sizes and shapes of customers are catered for. Default formulae have been applied in the MicroFit made‐to‐measure system from Garment Micro Systems and also implemented on this system for checking the validity of measurements entered into the system for each individual customer.
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T. Bond, S.C. Liao and J.P. Turner
This study was initiated in order to develop a system for made‐to‐measure (MTM) pattern generation with special reference to computer‐aided design (CAD) applications. Recognition…
Abstract
This study was initiated in order to develop a system for made‐to‐measure (MTM) pattern generation with special reference to computer‐aided design (CAD) applications. Recognition of the relationship between body figuration and pattern construction is essential for the production of MTM clothing with good fit. By linking theory and practice, a methodology has been developed for research in this field from female figure typing through sizing, pattern design construction and grading to pattern alteration. The study is divided into three parts. In the first part, the background to women's sizing systems and categorisation of female figure types is discussed, and a new system of size codes and size charts is proposed.
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John Komlos and Leonard Carlson
We analyze heights of Indian scouts in the U.S. army born between ca. 1825 and 1875. Their average height of ca. 170 cm (67 in.) confirms that natives were tall compared to…
Abstract
We analyze heights of Indian scouts in the U.S. army born between ca. 1825 and 1875. Their average height of ca. 170 cm (67 in.) confirms that natives were tall compared to Europeans but were nearly the shortest among the rural populations in the New World. The trend in their height describes a slightly inverted “U” shape with an increase between those born 1820–1834 and 1835–1839 of ca. 1.8 cm (0.7 in.) (p = 0.000) and a subsequent slight decline after the Civil War. This implies that they were able to maintain and perhaps even improve their nutritional status through the Civil War, though harder times followed for those born thereafter. We also recalculate the heights of Native Americans in the Boas sample and find that the Plains Indians were shorter than most rural Americans. The trend in the height of Indians in the Boas sample is similar to that of the scouts.
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This study aims to consider the nineteenth century relationship between biological markers and employment. This relationship is also considered for different occupations and by…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to consider the nineteenth century relationship between biological markers and employment. This relationship is also considered for different occupations and by race.
Design/methodology/approach
Using a large source of nineteenth century Texas state prison records, regression models illustrate the relationships between stature, body mass index (BMI), other observable characteristics and employment outcomes.
Findings
Among the nineteenth century Texas working class, stature and BMIs were not significant in the decision to participate in the southwest's labor market but were significant in Texas occupation selection. The probability of being farmers and unskilled workers were comparable by race. However, whites had easier access to white‐collar and skilled occupations.
Practical implications
Relationships between stature and BMI in developing countries may not be related to the decision to work; however, a relationship between these biological markers and occupation selection may exist.
Originality/value
This paper is one of the few that consider the relationship between biological markers and employment outcomes. By considering the relationship between stature, BMI, and employment outcomes as the US economy develops, inferences can be drawn for the health and employment relationship in developing economies.
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Howard Bodenhorn, Timothy W. Guinnane and Thomas A. Mroz
Long-run changes in living standards occupy an important place in development and growth economics, as well as in economic history. An extensive literature uses heights to study…
Abstract
Long-run changes in living standards occupy an important place in development and growth economics, as well as in economic history. An extensive literature uses heights to study historical living standards. Most historical heights data, however, come from selected subpopulations such as volunteer soldiers, raising concerns about the role of selection bias in these results. Variations in sample mean heights can reflect selection rather than changes in population heights. A Roy-style model of the decision to join the military formalizes the selection problem. Simulations show that even modest differential rewards to the civilian sector produce a military heights sample that is significantly shorter than the cohort from which it is drawn. Monte Carlos show that diagnostics based on departure from the normal distribution have little power to detect selection. To detect height-related selection, we develop a simple, robust diagnostic based on differential selection by age at recruitment. A companion paper (H. Bodenhorn, T. Guinnane, and T. Mroz, 2017) uses this diagnostic to show that the selection problems affect important results in the historical heights literature.
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