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In the trend of individuation and customization, more rapid and flexible clothing pattern production systems are required. Many studies about the system have been done into producing paper pattern automatically for sewing. The purpose of this paper is to propose a novel three‐dimensional intelligent pattern‐making algorithm.

Body features are referenced for crack designing, the concept of functional dividing is proposed on the triangled upper body surface based on Gauss Curvature. A new surface flattening algorithm based on body features (SFABF) is put forward. Robert Hooke Law and Young's modulus are referenced for energy model (EMRY) setting up to define and calculate the edge length variation of triangle. Basing on EMRY, another optimizing surface flattening algorithm (OSFA) is designed to optimize SFABF so as to minimize the accumulated energy.

Shape variation accumulation of flattened pattern can be reduced a lot when the cracks are distributed along functional dividing lines. The points with the largest Gauss Curvature as Bust Point have played a great role in shape variation reduction. Because of textiles' flexibility shape variation need not be reduced to zero. Comparing with the related methods this research is more practical.

To this study, SFABF and OSFA are novel methods to improve practicality. The proposed concept of functional dividing is value to the shape variation reduction from surface flattening.

In order to mass‐customize clothes, it is essential to create prototype pattern according to individual body shape. The purpose of this paper is to present a new method to generate prototype pattern based on individual three‐dimensional (3D) virtual dummy for further study on apparel customization.

The symmetrized preprocessing and convex hull method are employed to create a dress‐like virtual dummy based on 3D body scanning data. The corresponding structure lines of 2D prototype pattern are defined on the 3D dummy in advance and 3D dummy surface (only half) is cut into ten zones. Based on the characteristics of each surface, further subdivision was made in each zone to create 3D wireframe of garment prototype by calculating the intersection curves between the dummy surface and local planners. Via flattening geometrically 3D wireframe of each zone, final pattern of the prototype is got. Moreover, during the course of flattening of each zone, define constrained lines in advance so as to ensure the position and direction of each cutting pattern beforehand.

The paper finds that 2D cutting patterns of the prototype have been constructed from the computerized 3D dummy. The length of major structure lines for both 3D model and 2D cutting pattern remain the same. The seven out of ten of cutting patterns have area error within ±1 cm² compared to 3D surface. Only two cutting have relatively larger error but controlled within 3 cm².

The most outstanding property of the method developed is the possibility of geometrical transformation of 3D surface to 2D pattern through constructing 3D wireframe of the prototype garment, with no need to define physical‐mechanical properties of fabric used. The newly created 2D cutting patterns have the coincident construction and shape with conventional prototype and are of outstanding quality and preciseness.

The purpose of this paper is to identify optimum operating parameters, namely, link-length and vertex angle, for producing virtual clothing prototypes for the purpose of pattern flattening.

Commercially available physically based simulation and flattening engines were utilized to carry out the computational part of this study. Two separately developed 3D garment templates were used for the creation of virtual garments in the form of a triangulated mesh and later for pattern unwrapping by taking differential link-lengths and vertex angles into account to ascertain their effects on the mesh quality and on the ultimate pattern flattening process.

It has been found that a link-length between 10 and 15 mm and a vertex angle between 120° and 160° are optimum for the virtual clothing prototyping process.

The findings of this study can universally be applied to simplify the tasks of virtual clothing prototyping and pattern unwrapping using commercial software packages.

Previously, there has not been any guidance available for the selection of specific operational parameters to promote 3D garment design.

This paper aims to present a flattening method for developing 2D basic patterns from 3D designed garments. The method incorporates the techniques of professional pattern development for the purpose of pattern‐making automation. The aims of the flattening method are to improve the dressing suitability and to produce pleasing figures by reversing design procedures.

A flattening method is presented in this paper for developing 3D undevelopable NURBS surfaces in 2D. The automatic operation embeds the expertise of pattern makers by reducing total area differences between the designed garments in 3D styles and the two‐dimensional patterns. Basic pattern‐making invokes the boundary constraints which apply mesh alignments techniques.

The global area difference between the original 3D designs and the 2D‐developed pattern is controlled within 5 percent in order to reach the final outcomes of basic patterns, whose shapes are similar to the drawing patterns currently utilized in the industry.

This study currently handles simple designs, such as basal designs, and can only flatten garments in symmetric styles. The direct flattening method is developed by this study. In addition, this study is supplemented by expert‐based knowledge, and it establishes basic boundary conditions for various garment patterns to increase the feasibility of flattening automation.

This study introduces the fundamental theories and methodologies used in the automatic making of basic patterns from 3D garment designs. It proposes a flattening method with pattern expertise embedded by real‐time approximations of the global area of the 3D undevelopable designs to the 2D patterns.

The purpose of this paper is to find the pattern with minimal deformation energy while developing from 3D designed garments. Moreover, darts are generated to further reduce deformation energy. The aims of the energy-based flattening method are to reduce the difference between 3D designed garments and 2D flattened patterns in an accurate and efficient way.

This study uses a mass spring method and iterative optimization to analyze pattern contours with minimal contour deformation while flattening three dimensional draping designs into a plane. Darts are generated to further reduce distortion during surface flattening and the energy method is introduced to verify that the analysis results obtained match the garment darts provided by the Bunka formula which is currently widely used in East Asia.

An efficient method for generating optimal darted pattern is presented. It compares the important factors of darts, including position, length and amount. After iterative optimization and darts generation, the maximum energy reduction is about 30 percent.

This study provides an aggregate to analyze and compare the differences between different patterns and conduct a verification comparison with traditional pattern formula.

The paper aims to provide an overview of the area of digital pattern developing for customized apparel.

The paper outlines several methods of digital pattern developing for customized apparel, and discusses the principles, characters and applications. Digital pattern developing process has two paths. One path develops apparel according to traditional 2D pattern‐making technology. There are three methods: parametric design, traditional grading technique, and pattern generating based on artificial intelligence (AI). Another path develops pattern through surface flattening directly from individual 3D apparel model.

For parametric method, it can improve greatly the efficiency of pattern design or pattern alteration. However, the development and application of parametric Computer‐Aided‐Design (CAD) systems in apparel industry are difficult, because apparel pattern has fewer laws in graphical structure. For grading technique, it is the most practical method because of its simple theory, with which pattern masters are familiar. But these methods require users with higher experience. Creating expert pattern system based on AI can reduce the experience requirements. Meanwhile, a great deal of experiments should be conducted for each garment with different style to create their knowledge databases. For 3D CAD technology, two methods of surface flattening have been outlined, namely geometry flattening and physical flattening. But many improvements should be done if the 3D CAD systems are applied in apparel mass customization.

The paper provides information of value to the future research on developing a practical made‐to‐measure apparel pattern system.

The purpose of this paper is to present an assessment of the ability of combined finite and slab element method (FSEM) for analyzing the wire flat rolling process.

Using the FSEM, the effective strain field of flat rolled wire is predicted for different reductions in height and frictional conditions. The validity of the method is assessed by performing the Vickers microhardness measurements on the flattened wire cross section. Also, the creation of macroscopic shear bands in cross section of the flat rolled wire is investigated and confirmed by microhardness and metallographic examinations. Moreover, the lateral spread and width of contact area are predicted by the FSEM for different reductions in height and frictional conditions.

The FSEM and microhardness results show the minimum and the maximum effective strains at the round edge and center of the flattened wire, respectively. Also, the results show the bands of maximum effective strain at cross section of the flattened wire, i.e. macroscopic shear bands.

This paper can be useful in rolling industries to produce electronic parts, various springs, trolley cables, piston rings, and guide rails.

The paper shows the applicability of the FSEM for calculating the effective strain field and geometry of wire after wire flat rolling process.

Accurate and automatic clothing pattern making is very important in personalized clothing customization and virtual fitting room applications. Clothing pattern generating as well as virtual clothing simulation is an attractive research issue both in clothing industry and computer graphics.

Physics-based method is an effective way to model dynamic process and generate realistic clothing animation. Due to conceptual simplicity and computational speed, mass-spring model is frequently used to simulate deformable and soft objects follow the natural physical rules. We present a physics-based clothing pattern generating framework by using scanned human body model. After giving a scanned human body model, first, we extract feature points, planes and curves on the 3D model by geometric analysis, and then, we construct a remeshed surface which has been formatted to connected quad meshes. Second, for each clothing piece in 3D, we construct a mass-spring model with same topological structures, and conduct a typical time integration algorithm to the mass-spring model. Finally, we get the convergent clothing pieces in 2D of all clothing parts, and we reconnected parts which are adjacent on 3D model to generate the basic clothing pattern.

The results show that the presented method is a feasible way for clothing pattern generating by use of scanned human body model.

The main contribution of this work is twofold: one is the geometric algorithm to scanned human body model, which is specially conducted for clothing pattern design to extract feature points, planes and curves. This is the crucial base for suit clothing pattern generating. Another is the physics-based pattern generating algorithm which flattens the 3D shape to 2D shape of cloth pattern pieces.

Although it may be argued that the goal of flattening the organization is to empower employees with a higher level of involvement and decision-making abilities, several cases provide evidence of the emergence of highly restrictive control structures in the “flattened” organization. This phenomenon is not a necessary outcome of an attempt to flatten the organizational hierarchy, however. There is also evidence that the organizational hierarchy can be “successfully” flattened. What is not clear in the current literature is a theoretical basis to explain the tendency for highly restrictive control structures to emerge after a change toward flattening the organizational hierarchy. This essay attempts to address this issue by examining the emergence of disciplinary structures in flattened organizations, looking at cases of various structural changes and, finally, elaborating the basis for a developmental theory of the spiral resulting in the emergence of unintended and oppressive control structures in the flattened organization.

Based on the knowledge of professional pattern makers, this paper aims to propose an expert‐based automation technique of darts generation by aligning and drawing close meshes in basic pattern in Part I. Single dart development, such as waist‐fitting dart, shoulder dart, armscye dart, side dart, and their select combination are also presented.

In this paper, 3D garment surface is first approximated by a finite number of meshes. Patterns are developed by aligning and rotating of the flattened meshes under the constraint of overlay avoidance. The envelop areas between the developed patterns and the curved surface are dramatically reduced from 5 percent of basic pattern to below 3 percent after darts development.

The development patterns are varied in their association with the subject's body figures and the designed garment. Darts in a different location can reduce the total area difference between the flattening undevelopable surface and the original curved surface.

At the present stage the pattern development method cannot guarantee the uniqueness of pattern outline. Moreover, the pattern maker's knowledge inputs in this paper can only apply to the subject whose waist girth is less than hip girth in circumference.

The embedded pattern maker knowledge provides certain rules for pattern development from 3D design. Moreover, it is practical to be used and exported to modern 2D pattern software for further editing and revision. The same person is also used as a model after the patterns have been sewn into clothes.