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Article
Publication date: 10 March 2021

Xiaoxuan Qin and Lixin Qu

As one natural fiber, yak cashmere has been used more and more widely on textile processing due to its excellent warmth retention property. Yarn spinning is the first and the most…

Abstract

Purpose

As one natural fiber, yak cashmere has been used more and more widely on textile processing due to its excellent warmth retention property. Yarn spinning is the first and the most important step of textile processing. Yarn spinning is closely related to the fiber properties. That is, for giving the optimization spinning process of one new fiber, the properties of the new fiber should be studied firstly. Meanwhile, during the studying of the properties of the new fiber, comparative analysis method was usually used. That is, the property of the new fiber was common comparatively analyzed with other fibers. During the comparative analysis, the spinning process can be optimized. Therefore, in the paper, the properties of the yak cashmere were studied in detail and comparatively analyzed.

Design/methodology/approach

The brown yak cashmere, cyan yak cashmere, white cashmere fiber, purple cashmere fiber, cyan cashmere fiber, camel hair fiber and mohair fiber, were chosen as the samples. The fiber length, fineness, strength, curls, moisture regain, mass specific resistance, surface morphology, infrared spectrum, melting behavior, thermal weight loss, friction, x-ray, were tested and comparatively analyzed.

Findings

It is shown that the compositions of yak cashmere and cashmere are similar, and makes the physical properties of yak cashmere and cashmere fiber similar. Comparing with the mohair, camel hair and cashmere fiber, the average length of yak cashmere is smaller and the dispersion of length distribution is larger, and the dispersion of yak cashmere strength is larger, which makes the yarn spinning of yak cashmere difficult, especially the high count pure yarn. However, comparing with the mohair, camel hair and cashmere fiber, the friction coefficient and friction effect of yak cashmere is larger, and yak cashmere fiber has relatively less curls and larger crimp rate and crimp recovery rate, and can improve the fiber spinnability.

Originality/value

In the paper, taking the brown yak cashmere, cyan yak cashmere, white cashmere fiber, purple cashmere fiber, cyan cashmere fiber, camel hair fiber, mohair fibers as the samples, the properties of the yak cashmere were studied in detail. The fiber length, fineness, strength, curls, moisture regain, mass specific resistance, surface morphology, infrared spectrum, melting behavior, thermal weight loss, friction, x-ray, were tested and comparatively analyzed. The studies can establish foundation for the optimization of the yak cashmere spinning process, and also can provide information for the end uses of the fiber.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 24 August 2018

Fei Wang and Xiangyu Jin

The purpose of this paper is to use convolutional neural networks in order to solve the problem of the difficulty in the classification of cashmere and wool. To do the research…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to use convolutional neural networks in order to solve the problem of the difficulty in the classification of cashmere and wool. To do the research, it proposes a low-dimensional strategy of using part-level features to enhance object-level features. The study aims to use computer version method to find out the most effective and robust method to manage the difficult task of cashmere and wool identification.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors try to get a coarse classification result and the initial weights of the model in the first step. The authors use the results of the first step and a Fast-RCNN method to extract part-level features in step 2. Finally, the authors mix the part-level features to enhance object-level features and classify the cashmere and wool images.

Findings

The paper finds that not only the texture is the key element of the cashmere and wool identification but also the image colors.

Originality/value

Most importantly, the paper finds that the part-level features can enhance object-level features in the fiber identification task. However, it does not work in contrast, and the strategy can be used in the similar fibers identifications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 November 2018

Qin Xiaoxuan, Hui’e Liang, Xuzhong Su and Xinjin Liu

As a natural fiber, yakwool has attracted much attention in textile processing due to its excellent properties and wearabilities. However, the main colors of yakwool are black and…

Abstract

Purpose

As a natural fiber, yakwool has attracted much attention in textile processing due to its excellent properties and wearabilities. However, the main colors of yakwool are black and brown. Therefore, for extending the application scopes of the fiber, the decolorization of the yakwool fiber is usually needed, especially for the black fiber. The paper aims to discuss this issue.

Design/methodology/approach

In the paper, the properties of the yakwool fiber were tested first, especially the melanin granules in the fiber. Then, the decolorization of the yakwool fiber was studied using the oxidation–reduction decolorization method, and corresponding optimal process of the decolorization was given. Then, the properties of the decolorized yakwool fiber were tested and compared with those of the original fiber.

Findings

It is shown that, after decolorization, the physical and mechanical properties of the fiber were deteriorated, especially in terms of the strength and elongation. Therefore, the fiber became shorter and thinner, and the scales were damaged. When compared with the yarn spun from the original yakwool fiber, it was observed that the properties of the yarn spun from the decolorized yakwool fiber deteriorated because of the deterioration in the properties of the original fiber.

Originality/value

In the paper, for extending the application scopes of the yakwool fiber, the decolorization of the yakwool fiber was studied.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 14 December 2018

Daniel J. Murphy

This paper explores the emerging articulations between microfinance and livestock production cycles among Mongolian pastoralists in contexts plagued by disaster and commodity…

Abstract

This paper explores the emerging articulations between microfinance and livestock production cycles among Mongolian pastoralists in contexts plagued by disaster and commodity market fluctuations. Ethnographic investigations of household production and vulnerability in two rural districts of eastern and western Mongolia demonstrates that both poor and wealthy households have become ensnared in a cashmere-debt cycle but that the bifurcation of livestock asset trajectories between large and small herds has also fostered diverse financial and herd management strategies that further exacerbate existing inequalities.

Details

Individual and Social Adaptations to Human Vulnerability
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-78769-175-9

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 6 July 2012

Marius Warg Næss

This chapter presents a preliminary discussion of potential impacts of climate change on nomadic pastoralists on the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau (QTP). Both climate model projections…

Abstract

This chapter presents a preliminary discussion of potential impacts of climate change on nomadic pastoralists on the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau (QTP). Both climate model projections and observations suggest that (1) the QTP is becoming warmer and (2) precipitation is increasing. Evidence also suggests that (3) glaciers on the QTP are declining and (4) the permafrost is degrading. Nevertheless, little is known as to how climate change will affect nomadic pastoralists although environmental variability is likely to increase, which may again exacerbate production risks. Pastoral risk management strategies, such as mobility, may thus increase in importance. It is, however, difficult to translate changes in important climate measures like precipitation and temperature to effects on pastoralists and livestock since they mainly affect livestock indirectly via their effect on vegetation productivity. Consequently, to increase our understanding of climate change-related effects on pastoral adaptations, satellite-based measures directly linked to both vegetation characteristics and climatic variables should be utilized in future studies rather than, for example, overall changes in precipitation and temperature. Finally, official policies that constantly introduce reforms that reduce pastoral flexibility represent a far more significant threat for nomadic pastoralists on the QTP than climate change because they may result in the wholesale extinction of the pastoral culture.

Details

Climate Change Modeling For Local Adaptation In The Hindu Kush-Himalayan Region
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-78052-487-0

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 March 2016

Xudong Sun, Mingxing Zhou and Yize Sun

– The purpose of this paper is to develop near infrared (NIR) techniques coupled with multivariate calibration methods to rapid measure cotton content in blend fabrics.

1000

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to develop near infrared (NIR) techniques coupled with multivariate calibration methods to rapid measure cotton content in blend fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

In total, 124 and 41 samples were used to calibrate models and assess the performance of the models, respectively. Multivariate calibration methods of partial least square (PLS), extreme learning machine (ELM) and least square support vector machine (LS-SVM) were employed to develop the models. Through comparing the performance of PLS, ELM and LS-SVM models with new samples, the optimal model of cotton content was obtained with LS-SVM model. The correlation coefficient of prediction (r p ) and root mean square errors of prediction were 0.98 and 4.50 percent, respectively.

Findings

The results suggest that NIR technique combining with LS-SVM method has significant potential to quantitatively analyze cotton content in blend fabrics.

Originality/value

It may have commercial and regulatory potential to avoid time consuming work, costly and laborious chemical analysis for cotton content in blend fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 13 February 2019

Xudong Sun and Ke Zhu

The purpose of this paper is to initiate investigations to develop near infrared (NIR) spectroscopy coupled with spectral dimensionality reduction and multivariate calibration…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to initiate investigations to develop near infrared (NIR) spectroscopy coupled with spectral dimensionality reduction and multivariate calibration methods to rapidly measure cotton content in blend fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

In total, 124 and 41 samples were used to calibrate models and assess the performance of the models, respectively. The raw spectra are transformed into wavelet coefficients. Multivariate calibration methods of partial least square (PLS), extreme learning machine (ELM) and least square support vector machine (LS-SVM) were employed to develop the models using 100 wavelet coefficients. Through comparing the performance of PLS, ELM and LS-SVM models with new samples, the optimal model of cotton content was obtained with the LS-SVM model.

Findings

The correlation coefficient of prediction (rp) and root mean square errors of prediction were 0.99 and 4.37 percent, respectively. The results suggest that NIR spectroscopy, combining with the LS-SVM method, has significant potential to quantitatively analyze cotton content in blend fabrics.

Originality/value

It may have commercial and regulatory potential to avoid time-consuming work, costly and laborious chemical analysis for cotton content in blend fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 19 October 2016

Marcus Taylor

Conceptualizing development in terms of risk management has become a prominent feature of mainstream development discourse. This has led to a convergence between the rubrics of…

Abstract

Conceptualizing development in terms of risk management has become a prominent feature of mainstream development discourse. This has led to a convergence between the rubrics of financial inclusion and risk management whereby improved access for poor households to private sector credit, insurance and savings products is represented as a necessary step toward building “resilience.” This convergence, however, is notable for a shallow understanding of the production and distribution of risks. By naturalizing risk as an inevitable product of complex systems, the approach fails to interrogate how risk is produced and displaced unevenly between social groups. Ignoring the structural and relational dimensions of risk production leads to an overly technical approach to risk management that is willfully blind to the intersection of risk and social power. A case study of the promotion of index-based livestock insurance in Mongolia – held as a model for innovative risk management via financial inclusion – is used to indicate the tensions and contradictions of this projected synthesis of development and risk management.

Book part
Publication date: 1 September 2016

Alka Sabharwal

This chapter attempts to critically examine the wildlife conservation discourse that argues for curtailing the livestock grazing inside the Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary, situated…

Abstract

Purpose

This chapter attempts to critically examine the wildlife conservation discourse that argues for curtailing the livestock grazing inside the Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary, situated on the India’s international borders with China in southeast Ladakh. The conventional conservation discourse points at the (supposed) greed of the Changpa pastoralists in accumulating an increasing number of pashmina goats as a primary environmental cause of wildlife loss in Changthang; however, there is a critical lack of insight into the political and historical mechanisms that lie within the dynamic interaction between resource access and socio-economic inequalities, critical for understanding Changpa pastoralism today.

Methodology/approach and findings

Ethnographic inquiry into the Changpa economy before the closure of Ladakh–Tibet border trade in 1962, and afterwards, has highlighted the political and economic transformations in the area, as well as the cultural politics of market integration and increasing inabilities of the mobile Changpa pastoralists to access vital productive resources. Inequalities reflected in the contemporary livestock data, acquired from the pastoralists, underscore the processes of institutional bricolage, non-cooperative labour, exchange/wage herding and capital-dominated market networks, making pastoralism impossible for several of the households.

Originality/value

The chapter argues against making livestock withdrawal a major aim of conservation sciences. It calls instead for the recognition of state-provisioned commodified pashmina rearing, seen through the prism of changing abilities and shifting institutions, where unequal access to productive resources is a reflection of both historical dispossessions and also economic impoverishments of Changpa today.

Details

The Economics of Ecology, Exchange, and Adaptation: Anthropological Explorations
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-78635-227-9

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 29 January 2024

Guangming Xiang, Zheng He, Tianli Feng and Zhenzhen Feng

This paper aims to explore how firms enter or exit B Corp certification faced with the tension between local and B Corp institutions, providing a better understanding of the…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to explore how firms enter or exit B Corp certification faced with the tension between local and B Corp institutions, providing a better understanding of the unique impact of institutional complexity on B Corps' decision-making.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper applies multi-case analysis to 20 Chinese firms in various stages of B Corp certification, including eight certified B Corps, six decertified firms and six candidates. The qualitative data was used to code separately for two research questions.

Findings

The study findings reveal that: (1) Participants who can obtain expected social and economic benefits by innovating their operational mode to efficiently deal with this tension attempt to continuously pursue B Corp certification. A self-renewal model was developed to show how firms hybridize the two institutional logics; (2) Participants who find it hard to mitigate this tension tend to compromise with the local institution and conform less with the B Corp institution due to high opportunity and accounting costs, low short-term benefits and collective culture.

Originality/value

By highlighting the different responses of firms to institutional complexity, this study contributes to B Corp research, social identity theory and institutional complexity, providing practical implications for B Lab strategies in China.

Details

International Journal of Emerging Markets, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1746-8809

Keywords

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