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Article
Publication date: 29 October 2019

Prisca Aude Eutionnat-Diffo, Yan Chen, Jinping Guan, Aurélie Cayla, Christine Campagne, Xianyi Zeng and Vincent Nierstrasz

This paper aims to evaluate and simulate the impact of the build platform temperature of the three-dimensional (3D) printer, the structure and heat transfer of textiles on the…

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Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to evaluate and simulate the impact of the build platform temperature of the three-dimensional (3D) printer, the structure and heat transfer of textiles on the adhesion and durability after washing properties of 3D printed polymer onto textile materials using thin layers of conductive and non-conductive extruded poly lactic acid monofilaments (PLA) deposited on polyethylene terephthalate (PET) woven fabrics through fused deposition modeling (FDM) process.

Design/methodology/approach

Prior to FDM process, thermal conductivity, surface roughness and mean pore size of PET woven fabrics were assessed using the “hot disk,” the profilometer and the capillary flow porometry methods, respectively. After the FDM process, the adhesion and durability after the washing process properties of the materials were determined and optimized based on reliable statistical models connecting those properties to the textile substrate properties such as surface roughness, mean pore size and thermal conductivity.

Findings

The main findings point out that higher roughness coefficient and mean pore size and lower thermal conductivity of polyester woven textile materials improve the adhesion properties and the build platform presents a quadratic effect. Additionally, the adhesion strength decreases by half after the washing process and rougher and more porous textile structures demonstrate better durability. These results are explained by the surface topography of textile materials that define the anchorage areas between the printed layer and the textiles.

Originality/value

This study is for great importance in the development of smart textiles using FDM process as it presents unique and reliable models used to optimize adhesion resistance of 3D printed PLA primary layer onto PET textiles.

Article
Publication date: 18 April 2017

Yan Hong, Pascal Bruniaux, Xianyi Zeng, Kaixuan Liu, Yan Chen and Min Dong

The purpose of this paper is to present a new collaborative design-based method for designing customized garments, aimed at the physically disabled people with scoliosis.

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Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to present a new collaborative design-based method for designing customized garments, aimed at the physically disabled people with scoliosis.

Design/methodology/approach

The proposed method is based on the virtual human model created using a 3D body scanner, permitting to simulate the consumer’s morphological shape with atypical physical deformations. Next, customized 2D and 3D virtual garment prototyping tools will be used to create products through interactions between the consumer, designer and pattern maker. The general principle of the proposed design method is based on the following sequence: design-display-evaluation-adjustment. After running the sequence for a number of times, the final design solution, which will be approved by both the designer and consumer, can be easily identified.

Findings

Design knowledge, which is already applied to normal body shapes successfully can be applied to 3D garment design using the concept which is based on collaborative design. Through this process, the classical 2D garment design knowledge, especially 2D patterns and design rules, can be modified and applied according to a normalized virtual garment sensory evaluation procedure quantitatively. This evaluation procedure, interactively performed by the designer and consumer, can permit to adapt the finished product to disabled people afflicted with severe scoliosis. The proposed method is also validated to be more advanced compared to 2D-to-3D virtual CAD design method, especially for atypical morphologies.

Originality/value

As a co-design method, 3D virtual draping and sensory evaluation can fully satisfy the interaction between the garment design technical space and perceptual space of the finished garments ensuring desired 3D garment fit effect by adjustment of technical parameters. 3D scanning technology is used to generate a complete digitalized 3D human model, permitting to extract the main features of body shapes without accurate measurements. As a knowledge-based design process, both the fashion design knowledge and the pattern making knowledge will be extracted to provide inspirations and references. Successful design solutions will be incorporated into the fashion design knowledge base in order to generate new design rules and enhance professional design knowledge.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 22 March 2018

Junjie Zhang, Xianyi Zeng, Kaixuan Liu, Hong Yan and Min Dong

The purpose of this paper is to set up a women’s jeans knowledge base between consumer profile and jeans profile. The result of study could be applied to jeans recommendation…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to set up a women’s jeans knowledge base between consumer profile and jeans profile. The result of study could be applied to jeans recommendation system for a special consumer.

Design/methodology/approach

Women’s jeans are chosen as research objects. The sensory evaluation technology and intelligent data fusion methods are applied in this research.

Findings

Eight pairs of words were selected to set up normalized sensory evaluation criteria in the study for describing both consumers’ expectations and products. The relation between consumer profile and jeans profile could be quantified according to the principle of sensory evaluation technology.

Practical implications

Four experiments are designed for setting up this knowledge base by sensory evaluation technology, and set up the women’s jeans knowledge base by intelligent data fusion methods.

Originality/value

The theory of sensory evaluation technology is applied for building women’s jeans knowledge base that can be used for consumer-oriented intelligent garment recommendation system.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 July 2022

Chun Zhu, Kaixuan Liu, Ruolin Wang, Jianping Wang, Pascal Bruniaux and Xianyi Zeng

The purpose of this paper is to build a mathematical model of men’s wear prototype, so that the computer can draw men’s wear prototype automatically.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to build a mathematical model of men’s wear prototype, so that the computer can draw men’s wear prototype automatically.

Design/methodology/approach

First, the bust line, front and back center line, waist line, side seam, front chest width and back width line in the coordinate system are expressed by equations. Then, a parabola is used to establish a neckline curve, a linear equation is used to establish a shoulder oblique line, and a double ellipse is superposed to construct the armhole arc. Finally, all the garment prototype curves are built mathematical models.

Findings

The result shows that every curve of garment prototype can be expressed approximately by mathematical model.

Originality/value

This research lays the foundation for the automation and intelligence of garment pattern-making.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 April 2019

Yan Hong, Xuechun Cao, Yan Chen, Zhijuan Pan, Yu Chen and Xianyi Zeng

The purpose of this paper is to investigate physiological indices related to comfort and health condition, based on which corresponding electronic equipment are selected and…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate physiological indices related to comfort and health condition, based on which corresponding electronic equipment are selected and applied. A wearable monitoring system using sensor and liquid crystal display (LCD) techniques are then designed. Sensors are used to collect and transmit recording required signals from the wearer. A microcomputer with the type of AT89C52 is used to record and analyze the collected data. LCD is applied to display the health and comfort condition of the wearer.

Design/methodology/approach

A novel wearable monitoring system for the measurement of physiological indices and clothing microclimate is proposed in this study in order to monitoring both health and comfort condition of the wearer.

Findings

The proposed system provides reference for the application of sensor and display technologies in the field of smart clothing, which can be further applied to infant and child care, health care, home entertainment, military and industry.

Originality/value

This paper, first, investigated a framework of a wearable monitoring system considering both comfort and health condition and summarized the related physiological indices. The requirements of both comfort and health condition monitoring are analyzed to select appropriate electronic elements.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 2013

Xianyi Zeng and Besoa Rabenasolo

The modern textile/clothing industry is facing a great number of challenges related to sustainability. These challenges include environmental disasters and hazards to human health…

Abstract

The modern textile/clothing industry is facing a great number of challenges related to sustainability. These challenges include environmental disasters and hazards to human health caused by toxic materials, resource exhaustion (water, energy, raw materials), and social impacts caused by delocalization, counterfeiting and other elements. In order to develop the industry in a sustainable and optimal way when producing new textile products, industrial companies need to optimize their production organization by minimizing risks not only at levels of materials and processes but also in the whole international textile supply chain. In this paper, a method is proposed for developing a sustainable textile supply chain by selecting the most relevant materials and suppliers. The criteria of sustainable development include environment protection, recycling capacity, energy saving, human health and safety, and social impacts. Some evaluation criteria have been normalized by recognized international organizations. The method of data aggregation with multiple fuzzy criteria is applied in order to select the most appropriate textile material and its supplier. A new method combining expert knowledge of enterprise strategy and sensitivity criteria is used for determining the linguistic weights of these fuzzy criteria. In the proposed method, the aggregated evaluation index takes into account the criteria of sustainable development and the specific application context as well as company strategies for management of supply chains.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 17 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 May 2008

Yu Chen, Xianyi Zeng, Michel Happiette, Pascal Bruniaux, Royer Ng and Winnie Yu

The purpose of this paper is to present recent work for optimizing the estimation of ease allowance of a garment using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation.

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Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to present recent work for optimizing the estimation of ease allowance of a garment using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation.

Design/methodology/approach

The current method first generates a number of fuzzy models each corresponding to one specific key body part and one specific wearer's movement and then aggregates all the values of ease allowance generated from these fuzzy models using the ordered weighted averaging (OWA) operator. The aggregated ease allowance takes into account geometric measures on all representative human bodies, comfort sensations of wearers related to all movements or actions and different styles of trousers (tight, normal and loose). The weights of the OWA operator can be used to adjust the compromise between the style of garments and the comfort sensation of wearers. The related weights of the OWA operator are automatically determined according to designer's linguistic criteria characterizing the relationship between wearer's movements and the features of the garment to be designed.

Findings

Based on the optimized values of ease allowance generated from fuzzy models related to different key body positions and different wearer's movements, the authors obtain a personalized ease allowance, permitting to further improve the wearer's fitting perception of a garment. The effectiveness of the method has been validated in the design of trousers of jean type. It can also be applied for designing other types of garment.

Originality/value

Integration of wearer's body shapes and human comfort in the design of personalized garments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Content available
632

Abstract

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Article
Publication date: 1 May 2005

Ludovic Koehl, Ting Chen, Philippe Vroman and Xianyi Zeng

This paper, which deals with the forecasting of nonwovens end-uses, is divided in two parts. The first part presents optimized methods for measuring the structures of nonwovens…

Abstract

This paper, which deals with the forecasting of nonwovens end-uses, is divided in two parts. The first part presents optimized methods for measuring the structures of nonwovens. The raw data are extracted directly from 3D images of the accurate topographic surfaces of the materials and also from other instruments. Next, data analysis techniques are applied to select relevant structural parameters and forecast the expected end-uses of nonwovens. Relevant physical features are selected by integrating measured data and the knowledge of experts. The effectiveness of these methods has been shown through a number of nonwoven products designed for filtration.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 9 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 May 2008

M. Dimassi, L. Koehl, X. Zeng and A. Peruwelz

The knowledge of structural parameters of nonwovens media is poorly understood. The pores size distribution (PSD) function is one of those parameters. The difficulty is not only…

Abstract

Purpose

The knowledge of structural parameters of nonwovens media is poorly understood. The pores size distribution (PSD) function is one of those parameters. The difficulty is not only the understanding of the distribution of pores but also the identification of pores geometry distribution (PGD) and their behaviour concerning the dynamic fluid transportation. The purpose of this paper is to present an efficient and reliable method based on image analysis which on one hand, performs the estimation of the PSD function and takes into account the geometric aspect of pores, and on the other hand, analyses liquid wicking in very thin filter media.

Design/methodology/approach

The proposed methods, in this paper, are applied on thin filter media made of polyester. The samples have not sudden any treatment. The authors set up an optical test bed in order to observe the dynamic properties of the samples. Dynamic raw data about the liquid wicking are extracted directly from video sequences using the appropriate test bed. The structural parameters are extracted from the non‐wetted samples.

Findings

Obtained results allow a better understanding of the liquid wicking in very thin filter media. In addition to the PSD function, the PGD function adds informations about the shape of pores. The dynamic data of the liquid wicking explains that pores have different behaviour when liquid reached them. It can be deduced from this study that the fluid transport in the pore network is defined by three main parameters: geometric parameter (size, shape), capillary action and pores connection in the network.

Research limitations/implications

The led back‐lighting system is not sufficient to observe precisely the liquid wicking. An additional front‐lighting will be added in further studies.

Originality/value

The extraction of dynamic properties from video sequences, by performing image analysis is an original method to characterise the porosity in thin media filter.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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