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This paper describes a new approach for the design of multilayer reinforcements of textile composite materials and products. We offer an alternative to multilayer complex fabrics for which the laminates of the composite reinforcement material consist of orthogonal woven fabrics with an original variable structure when each fabric layer is composed of alternating one‐ply (one warp and one weft) and one and‐ a‐half‐ply (one warp and two wefts) sections. Combination of these sections produces a “gearing” effect, preventing the delamination of textile composites in the process of their exploitation. An important aspect of the proposed method is a possibility to design woven fabrics in concurrence with the dimensions of the composite product and conditions of its exploitation; this leads to a substantial improvement of many properties of such composite product.

This paper aims to investigate the influence of picking sequence, weave design and weft yarn material on the thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.

This work includes the development of 36 woven samples with two weave designs (1/1 plain and 3/1 twill), three picking sequences (single, double and three pick insertion) and six different weft yarn materials (cotton, polyester having 48 filaments, polyester with 144 filaments, spun coolmax having Lycra in core and coolmax in sheath, filament coolmax and polypropylene). The thermal conductivity was measured using ALAMBETA tester.

The results showed that weft yarn material, weave design and picking sequence have a meaningful impact on the thermal conductivity of woven fabric. The value of thermal conductivity was lowest for the fabrics with three pick insertion and 3/1 twill weave in all weft yarn materials.

Plain woven fabric with single pick insertion is feasible for summer wear to enhance the comfort of wearer. By changing the warp yarn grouping and material, improved thermal conductivity/resistance can also be achieved.

The authors have studied the combined effect of different weft yarn materials with different picking sequences and different weave designs on thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.

The paper aims to discuss error detection and correction in Kashmiri carpet weaving (KCW), mediated by cryptographic code, Talim which is held to guarantee accurate information transference from designing to weaving, even after hundred years. Yet, carpets often show errors on completion.

Human factors analysis revealed error emergence, detection and correction in this practice whose task domains are distributed over large geographies (from in-premises to several kilometers) and timescales (from days to decades). Using prospective observation method, production process of two research carpets from their design, coding and weaving was observed while noting the errors made, identified and corrected by actors in each phase.

The errors were found to emerge, identified and corrected during different phases of designing, coding and weaving while giving rise to fresh errors in each phase, due to actors’ normal work routines.

In view of this, usual branding of “weaver-error” behind flawed carpet turns out to be misplaced value judgment passed in hindsight.

Discusses the 6th ITCRR, its breadth of textile and clothing research activity, plus the encouragement given to workers in this field and its related areas. States that, within the newer research areas under the microscope of the community involved, technical textiles focuses on new, ‘smart’ garments and the initiatives in this field in both the UK and the international community at large. Covers this subject at length.

The purpose of this paper, on innovative design of traditional weft-backed woven fabric, is to investigate a design principle and method for full-backed structure with double-faced shading effect to realize two types of double-faced shading effects for traditional weft-backed fabric that are impossible to be realized under plane design mode. In addition, the study on the color rendering law is conducive to the design application, and the effectiveness of the design method has been verified by the design practices.

This paper presents a design method for full-backed structure with two shaded weave databases (SWDs) by selecting two primary weaves (PWs), establishing the corresponding SWDs, selecting the proper compound structures for database of full-backed structure with double-faced shading effect. Color card fabric with 544 specimens is produced and their color values are measured, their color difference and variance are analyzed to evaluate the color rendering characteristics. Finally, double-faced weft-backed fabrics are produced under layered-combination design mode to verify the practicality of full-backed structure with double-faced shading effect.

Weft-backed woven fabrics with “SPDC” (same pattern and different color) and “DPDC” (different pattern and different color) shading effects can be produced using full-backed structure with double-faced shading effect. The color expression is extremely enhanced (136 compound structures on one side for one color weft). In the shading process, two sets of wefts do not affect each other, and stable and ideal color shading effect with high color purity can be expressed according to the analyses on the L* (lightness) values, color purity, color differences (0.47–3.20) and variance (0.25–1.21) of the color card fabric.

Breaking through the structural limitations and achieving the double-faced shading effects that cannot be expressed in plane design mode. The research on two weft-backed fabric with the most basic weft-backed structure provides not only a theoretical base for further study on weft-backed structures, but also some references for structure innovation design of traditional weft-backed woven fabrics.

This paper aims to develop bilayer woven fabrics with different picking sequences with enhanced comfort without any change in the constituent materials.

Six bilayer woven fabrics were produced on Dobby loom with 3/1 twill weave using micro-polyester yarn. Three different picking sequences, i.e. single pick insertion (SPI), double pick insertion (DPI) and three pick insertion (3PI), were used in both face and back layers. The effect of picking sequence on air permeability (AP), volume porosity, thermal resistance and overall moisture management capability (OMMC) of the samples were analyzed.

The results showed that 3PI–3PI picking sequence gives the highest OMMC, AP and thermal resistance in bilayer woven fabrics and the least results exhibited by SPI–SPI picking sequence.

This research uses a bilayer woven system that develops channels and trapes the air causing higher thermal resistance; therefore, applicable for winter sports clothing rather than for summer wear. Developed bilayer woven fabrics can be used in winter sportswear to improve the comfort of the wearer and reduce fatigue during activity.

Authors have developed bilayer fabrics by changing the picking sequences, i.e. SPI, DPI and 3PI of weft yarns in both layers and compared their thermo-physiological comfort properties.

Today, Jacquard woven fabric producers are able to digitally control each warp yarn individually, pre-program the variable pick density and speed for each filling yarn, and automatically change a pattern without stopping the weaving process. Jacquard CAD systems dramatically reduce the time to produce fabric from the artwork or target design The process of weave/color selection for each area of the pattern is, however, still highly dependent on the CAD system operator who works from a particular color gamut. Multiple weaving trials are required to get a sample that matches the original artwork since the process requires the designer‘s subjective evaluation. The lack of automatic selection of weaves/color matching prompts this research.

This paper addresses the development of a geometric model for predicting the color contribution of each warp and filling yarn on the fabric surface in terms of construction parameters. The combination of geometric modeling and existing color mixing equations enables the prediction of the final color of different areas of a Jacquard pattern. The model was verified experimentally and a close agreement was found between a color mixing equation and the experimental measurements.

Seamless woven fashion is approachable via the Jacquard technology. With the rapid development of weaving technology and materials, an attempt is being made to expand and invent the technical and creative scopes of 3D Seamless Woven Fashion (SWF). The thrusts of the study are to establish complete design principles for advancing creation of SWF. In this study, three technical elements of weaving design have been identified in the course of SWF creation, i.e. elastic yarn, integrated structure, and integrated pattern. Past experiments so far suggested that it is possible to obtain different shrinkages as well as seamless woven textiles with varied richness and novel textures by adjusting the tightness of basic weaves. Moreover, three forms of layered structures, i.e., F (Flat), 3D-MnL (3-dimensional form on mono-layer) and 3D-MtL (3-dimensional appearance between multi-layers) were incorporated on different parts of a garment against specific requirements and/or performance. The construction of 3D shapes of SWF contributes to variety of fashions as well as woven textiles.

This study presents the design, manufacture and evaluation of a type of 3D hollow woven structure, as a mean for improving ventilation underneath ballistic body armour and thus, thermal comfort.

By means of a computational fluid dynamic package, fluid flows through different cross‐sectional tubular geometries were simulated in order to predict, which structural parameters of the 3D hollow fabrics are optimal to support ventilation.

As the result of the computational analysis four optimised 3D hollow woven structures were selected and generated on a standard weaving loom.

Investigation of thermal comfort of 3D ballistic vests.

Examines the fifteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.