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Article
Publication date: 2 March 2010

Elena Chepelyuk, Valeriy Choogin, Jenny Cousens and Michael Hann

The purpose of this paper is to analyse the advantages of a new interpretation of the geometric disposition of threads within woven fabric structures, and to develop a method of…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to analyse the advantages of a new interpretation of the geometric disposition of threads within woven fabric structures, and to develop a method of determining the parameters of threads, with reference to each order of their disposition.

Design/methodology/approach

Based on the analysis of the geometrical models proposed by Barker and Midgely, by Pierce and by Novikov, the substantiation of the advantages of a stricter model, offered by the authors, for determining the geometric disposition of threads within single layer woven fabric structures with the help of the tangent function is given. This model allows the substantial expansion of the actual bounds of the interval of the order of the geometric disposition of threads in woven fabric structures to 0.2‐9.8.

Findings

The tangent function can approximate the crimp height ratio of the warp threads within the woven fabric structure with accuracy within the limits of geometric disposition angle change from 1° to 89°.

Research limitations/implications

The work has applications in the industrial production of woven fabrics.

Practical implications

This research will allow the design of a woven fabric with practically any ratio of crimp height for the warp and weft threads to effectively achieve the required performance characteristics of the cloth.

Originality/value

This paper extends the knowledge of the geometrical characteristics of woven fabric structure, and proposes intelligent methods of determining the parameters of thread cross‐sections in accordance with the orders of the geometric disposition of threads in woven fabric structure.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 22 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 June 2015

Iwona Frydrych and Małgorzata Matusiak

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the relationship between the formability of cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics and their selected properties: weft density…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the relationship between the formability of cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics and their selected properties: weft density, weave and a way of finishing. It shows how the mentioned properties influence fabric formability and analyze a statistical significance of investigated relationships.

Design/methodology/approach

In paper two groups of cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics of different structure and a way of finishing have been measured in the range of their basic structural properties as well as bending rigidity and initial Young’s modulus. Formability of investigated fabrics has been calculated on the basis of bending rigidity and initial Young’s modulus. Next, ANOVA has been performed in order to analyze the relationships between the weft density, weave and a way of finishing of woven fabrics and their formability.

Findings

The paper shows that all selected properties of woven fabrics significantly influence their formability as well as that there is statistically significant interaction between mentioned independent factors. It provides empirical results confirming that the influence of raw material composition of investigated cotton and cotton/polyester woven fabrics on the formability of fabrics is statistically insignificant.

Research limitations/implications

Results of investigations can be applied for cotton and cotton-like woven fabrics.

Practical implications

The paper includes implications for woven fabric engineering from the point of view of achieving the expected fabric formability.

Social implications

The results enables the choice of appropriate fabric for the given clothing.

Originality/value

This paper fulfills an identified need to study how the formability of woven fabrics can be shaped by an appropriate selection of their structure and a way of finishing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 June 2010

Pranut Potiyaraj, Chutipak Subhakalin, Benchaphon Sawangharsub and Werasak Udomkichdecha

The purpose of this paper is to develop a computerized program that can recognize woven fabric structures and simultaneously use the obtained data to 3D re‐visualize the…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to develop a computerized program that can recognize woven fabric structures and simultaneously use the obtained data to 3D re‐visualize the corresponding woven fabric structures.

Design/methodology/approach

A 2D bitmap image of woven fabric was initially acquired using an ordinary desktop flatbed scanner. Through several image‐processing and analysis techniques as well as recognition algorithms, the weave pattern was then identified and stored in a digital format. The weave pattern data were then used to construct warp and weft yarn paths based on Peirce's geometrical model.

Findings

By combining relevant weave parameters, including yarn sizes, warp and weft densities, yarn colours as well as cross‐sectional shapes, a 3D image of yarns assembled together as a woven fabric structure is produced and shown on a screen through the virtual reality modelling language browser.

Originality/value

Woven fabric structures can now be recognised and simultaneously use the obtained data to 3D re‐visualize the corresponding woven fabric structures.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 22 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 3 October 2008

Mehmet Topalbekiroğlu and Hatice Kübra Kaynak

Testing the effect of machine washing and drying on dimensional stability produces information about the fabric types that satisfy consumers during end use. At present, it is a…

2673

Abstract

Purpose

Testing the effect of machine washing and drying on dimensional stability produces information about the fabric types that satisfy consumers during end use. At present, it is a known fact that the weave patterns affect the dimensional stability property of woven fabrics. But the essential requirement is to determine the magnitude of this effect for weave types and establish the proper weave types for end use in definite tolerances. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the dimensional stability properties of 100 percent cotton woven fabrics as a function of weave type.

Design/methodology/approach

In total, 12 woven fabrics with different weave derivatives are woven with 100 percent cotton and Ne 30/1 combed ring spun yarn for this investigation. These samples are then washed and dried according to domestic washing and drying standard test procedures. The shrinkage values are measured and then expressed as a percentage of the initial dimensions.

Findings

It was observed that weave pattern has a significant effect on the dimensional behavior of woven fabrics. Weave patterns with a high number of interlacings have lower shrinkage values. At the same time, lower yarn crimp values restricted the fabric shrinkage and resulted in better dimensional stability. According to one way ANOVA results, the effect of weave type on dimensional stability is found to be significant (p<0.01). In addition to these, Pearson correlation analysis showed that there is an important, positive and fair relationship between the number of washing cycles and total shrinkage.

Research limitations/implications

The study covers 100 percent cotton woven fabrics with one type of warp and weft sett. The only finishing treatment applied to the sample fabrics was desizing. No dyeing was carried out.

Originality/value

Understanding the magnitude of the effect of weave type on dimensional stability of cotton woven fabrics produces more knowledge about products which satisfy the customers with respect to dimensional stability during usage.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 January 2008

Elena V. Chepelyuk, Valeriy V. Choogin, David Hui and Yuri M. Strzhemechny

This paper describes a new approach for the design of multilayer reinforcements of textile composite materials and products. We offer an alternative to multilayer complex fabrics…

Abstract

This paper describes a new approach for the design of multilayer reinforcements of textile composite materials and products. We offer an alternative to multilayer complex fabrics for which the laminates of the composite reinforcement material consist of orthogonal woven fabrics with an original variable structure when each fabric layer is composed of alternating one‐ply (one warp and one weft) and one and‐ a‐half‐ply (one warp and two wefts) sections. Combination of these sections produces a “gearing” effect, preventing the delamination of textile composites in the process of their exploitation. An important aspect of the proposed method is a possibility to design woven fabrics in concurrence with the dimensions of the composite product and conditions of its exploitation; this leads to a substantial improvement of many properties of such composite product.

Details

Multidiscipline Modeling in Materials and Structures, vol. 4 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1573-6105

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 13 March 2019

Md Samsu Alam, Abhijit Majumdar and Anindya Ghosh

Bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics depend on fibre, yarn and fabric-related parameters. However, there is lack of research efforts to understand how bending and shear…

Abstract

Purpose

Bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics depend on fibre, yarn and fabric-related parameters. However, there is lack of research efforts to understand how bending and shear rigidities change in woven fabrics having similar areal density. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the change in bending and shear rigidities in plain woven fabrics having similar areal density.

Design/methodology/approach

A total of 18 fabrics were woven (9 each for 100 per cent cotton and 100 per cent polyester) keeping the areal density same. Yarns of 20, 30 and 40 Ne were used in warp and weft wise directions and fabric sett was adjusted to attain the desired areal density.

Findings

When warp yarns become finer, keeping weft yarns same, bending rigidity remains unchanged but shear rigidity increases in warp wise direction. When weft yarns are made finer, keeping the warp yarns same, both the bending and shear rigidities of fabric increase in warp wise direction. Similar results for fabric bending and shear rigidities were obtained in transpose direction. There is a strong association between fabric shear rigidity and number of interlacement points per unit area of fabric even when fabric areal density is same.

Originality/value

Very limited research has been reported on the low-stress mechanical properties of woven fabrics having similar areal density. A novel attempt has been made in this research work to investigate the bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics having similar areal density. Besides, it has been shown that it is possible to design a set of woven fabrics having similar bending rigidity but different shear rigidity.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 August 2018

Azita Asayesh, Mehraneh Talaei and Mohammad Maroufi

Fabric structural parameters play an important role on the thermal comfort of clothing. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of weave pattern and also the length…

Abstract

Purpose

Fabric structural parameters play an important role on the thermal comfort of clothing. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of weave pattern and also the length of warp float in each weave pattern on the thermal properties of woven fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

Cotton woven fabrics with 23 different weave patterns were produced with identical linear densities of warp and weft yarns as well as constant warp and weft nominal densities. Thereafter, their thermal properties were studied.

Findings

Statistical analysis demonstrated that the weave pattern significantly influences on the thermal properties of woven fabrics. Plain fabric exhibited the lowest thermal resistance and the highest thermal conductivity, and hopsack 2/2(4) weave fabric demonstrated the highest thermal resistance and the lowest thermal conductivity. Moreover, except hopsack (4) weave fabric, in all weave patterns, the length of warp float had a significant effect on the thermal characteristics of the fabrics, as increasing the warp float led to increase in the thermal resistance of the fabrics.

Originality/value

Weave pattern as one of the structural parameters of the fabric has a determinant role on the thermal properties of fabric and subsequently, the comfort of clothing produced from it. Owing to the lack of investigation in this area, this research considers the effect of weave pattern and the length of warp float in each weave pattern on the thermal properties of woven fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 30 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 17 February 2022

Muhammad Umair, Muhammad Usman Javaid, Yasir Nawab, Madeha Jabbar, Shagufta Riaz, Hafiz Affan Abid and Khubab Shaker

This paper aims to investigate the influence of picking sequence, weave design and weft yarn material on the thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to investigate the influence of picking sequence, weave design and weft yarn material on the thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

This work includes the development of 36 woven samples with two weave designs (1/1 plain and 3/1 twill), three picking sequences (single, double and three pick insertion) and six different weft yarn materials (cotton, polyester having 48 filaments, polyester with 144 filaments, spun coolmax having Lycra in core and coolmax in sheath, filament coolmax and polypropylene). The thermal conductivity was measured using ALAMBETA tester.

Findings

The results showed that weft yarn material, weave design and picking sequence have a meaningful impact on the thermal conductivity of woven fabric. The value of thermal conductivity was lowest for the fabrics with three pick insertion and 3/1 twill weave in all weft yarn materials.

Research limitations/implications

Plain woven fabric with single pick insertion is feasible for summer wear to enhance the comfort of wearer. By changing the warp yarn grouping and material, improved thermal conductivity/resistance can also be achieved.

Originality/value

The authors have studied the combined effect of different weft yarn materials with different picking sequences and different weave designs on thermal conductivity of the woven fabrics.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 April 2017

Donatas Petrulis and Salvinija Petrulyte

The purpose of this paper is to propose the materials structure-wetting behaviour relationships and to show their peculiarities for some types of surgical woven fabrics and…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to propose the materials structure-wetting behaviour relationships and to show their peculiarities for some types of surgical woven fabrics and applications of liquids.

Design/methodology/approach

To show the effects of fabrics structure on wetting behaviour of surgical textile materials, the special structural indices in terms of yarns and filaments lateral area were used.

Findings

It was shown good correlation between total lateral area of filaments in unit area of woven fabrics and wetting contact angle of liquid drops on the tested samples. Probably due to different structure of woven fabrics at a level of fibres, another index, i.e. total lateral area of yarns in unit area of fabrics, is not suitable to show clear effect on wetting behaviour of the samples. The possibilities of applications of relationships for several types of textile materials and liquids were indicated.

Originality/value

To date there are no investigations concerning relationships between special structural properties of the surgical woven fabrics and their wetting behaviour. On a basis of the proposed approach into fabrics structure evaluation, this study developed analysis and some types of new equations for prediction of wetting contact angle of the materials.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 February 2022

Muhammad Umar Nazir, Muhammad Usman Javaid, Khubab Shaker, Yasir Nawab, Tanveer Hussain and Muhammad Umair

This paper aims to develop bilayer woven fabrics with different picking sequences with enhanced comfort without any change in the constituent materials.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to develop bilayer woven fabrics with different picking sequences with enhanced comfort without any change in the constituent materials.

Design/methodology/approach

Six bilayer woven fabrics were produced on Dobby loom with 3/1 twill weave using micro-polyester yarn. Three different picking sequences, i.e. single pick insertion (SPI), double pick insertion (DPI) and three pick insertion (3PI), were used in both face and back layers. The effect of picking sequence on air permeability (AP), volume porosity, thermal resistance and overall moisture management capability (OMMC) of the samples were analyzed.

Findings

The results showed that 3PI–3PI picking sequence gives the highest OMMC, AP and thermal resistance in bilayer woven fabrics and the least results exhibited by SPI–SPI picking sequence.

Research limitations/implications

This research uses a bilayer woven system that develops channels and trapes the air causing higher thermal resistance; therefore, applicable for winter sports clothing rather than for summer wear. Developed bilayer woven fabrics can be used in winter sportswear to improve the comfort of the wearer and reduce fatigue during activity.

Originality/value

Authors have developed bilayer fabrics by changing the picking sequences, i.e. SPI, DPI and 3PI of weft yarns in both layers and compared their thermo-physiological comfort properties.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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