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1 – 10 of 90Anyone who has recently watched television or movies can tell you that transgender, gender nonbinary or gender expansive people are becoming more visible in these media. This…
Abstract
Anyone who has recently watched television or movies can tell you that transgender, gender nonbinary or gender expansive people are becoming more visible in these media. This trend reflects the reality that younger generations are increasingly identifying with more fluid and nonbinary gender and sexual identities and are progressively expressing those identities in a more flexible and changing manner (Herman et al., 2022; Wilson & Meyer, 2021). Unsurprisingly then, those individuals are also more visible at work, including in workplaces with employer-mandated dress codes. Indeed, in 2020 the US Supreme Court decided a case involving a transgender woman, Aimee Stephens, who was fired because her employer, a funeral home, required her to conform to its gender-binary dress policy and wear clothing mandatory for people assigned male at birth, rather than appropriate for her female gender identity ( Bostock v. Clayton County, 2020).
However, as the description of Aimee Stephens's own experience illustrates, often these employer appearance codes are based on a binary and fixed conception of gender and gender identity and expression at odds with the increasing number of workers who do not identify within those rigid parameters. Moreover, even when an employee, like Aimee Stephens herself, could have fit within her employer's dress code, the improper application of that policy to her, or employer concerns about customer or co-worker discomfort with an employee's appearance under the policy may mean that a worker's identity and expression may still conflict with a workplace appearance code. For gender nonbinary or nonconforming individuals, these complications are magnified.
This chapter explores the practical problems and barriers that employer dress codes have on employees whose gender identity and/or presentation move beyond the traditional male/female binary. Using insights from queer theory, gender expansive employees serve to interrogate fundamental assumptions behind workplace dress policies and the formal and informal ways in which these policies are policed. The chapter will explore that discordance, examine possible employer resolutions, and evaluate the strengths and weaknesses of those responses.
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Sudipta Das, Md Rokibul Hasan and Debanjan Das
This study aims to measure the competitiveness of top apparel exporting nations competing with China in different apparel product categories across the global environment.
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to measure the competitiveness of top apparel exporting nations competing with China in different apparel product categories across the global environment.
Design/methodology/approach
Compound annual growth rate, trade competitiveness, market share percentages, revealed comparative advantage and its variant normalized revealed comparative advantage using two-, four- and six-digit harmonized system codes for the period of 2016–2021 were used to understand the comparative advantage of competing apparel exporting nations.
Findings
The findings revealed that China still holds a more decisive comparative advantage than its competitors over the majority of the product categories within the knitted or not knitted apparel and clothing accessories. The other competing nations hold better export competitiveness over China in specific categories. However, that is not sufficient to be the “Next China.”
Research limitations/implications
The study has important implications for different stakeholders of the global apparel industry, such as governments, industry officials, policymakers, investors, researchers and students. The study’s limitations arise from using product categories as competitiveness indicators, notably relying on a macro level approach for measurement while the micro level perspective is not analyzed, which constitutes a significant limitation of the study.
Originality/value
This research thoroughly analyzes the competitive position of the top ten apparel-exporting countries in the global market.
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Berihun Bizuneh and Abrham Destaw
The purpose of this study was to assess the body characteristics (body size, garment sizes worn, shape and body satisfaction) of Ethiopian young adult female consumers and their…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this study was to assess the body characteristics (body size, garment sizes worn, shape and body satisfaction) of Ethiopian young adult female consumers and their effects on garment fit satisfaction and fit preferences of ready-to-wear garments such as T-shirts, blouses/shirts, skirts and jeans trousers.
Design/methodology/approach
Through a structured questionnaire, 418 usable responses were collected from young female university students. One-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) and multivariate ANOVA (MANOVA) were used to examine differences in garment fit satisfaction with the body characteristics of the respondents. Moreover, a multiple regression analysis was used to determine the effect of body characteristics and fit satisfaction on fit preferences in four of the ready-to-wear garments.
Findings
The body shapes of above half of the respondents were either bottom hourglass or spoon. The respondents were somewhat dissatisfied with the fit of the ready-to-wear garments, and above 70 per cent of them faced fit problems on average. BMI showed significant fit satisfaction differences in four of the garments, while garment sizes worn were significant only in skirts. However, no statistically significant difference was obtained with body shape. The effect of body characteristics and fit satisfaction on fit preferences was found significant in T-shirts and jeans trousers. The respondents preferred looser shirts and skirts irrespective of their body characteristics.
Originality/value
The paper is unique in comprehensively examining the relationship between body characteristics and garment fit satisfaction and their effects on fit preferences in selected garments in the context of female consumers in a developing country.
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Yukti Ahuja, Pooja Jain and Parul Gupta
This case study covers marketing concepts, including marketing mix, segmentation, targeting and brand positioning and communication. After completion of the case study, the…
Abstract
Learning outcomes
This case study covers marketing concepts, including marketing mix, segmentation, targeting and brand positioning and communication. After completion of the case study, the students will be able to understand the importance of segmentation and targeting; recognize the differences between business-to-business (B2B) and business-to-customers (B2C) segments; gain knowledge about the points of parity and points of difference while positioning; and examine the elements of a marketing mix.
Case overview/synopsis
The case centered around Mr. Ashvinder Singh, founder and director of Uni Style Image (USI), who initiated the polo T-shirt business in 1990 in Okhla, Delhi. The brand expanded across the country, but from 2010, USI faced fluctuating demand due to the rise of online marketing and intense competition from global fashion brands. Revenues dropped massively, leading to a significant downsizing from over 300 employees to just 11 by the end of fiscal year 2016–2017. In 2018, Singh explored the B2B model; however, the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 impacted many small- and mid-sized apparel businesses, including USI. In the fiscal year 2021–2022, the B2B segment accounted for 90% of total revenue, but the business size could not cover significant operating expenses. Despite only 10% of revenue coming from the B2C segment, Singh wanted to leverage the online space. In September 2022, Singh closed his factory in Noida, National Capital Region, Delhi. Amid the uncertainty, Singh explored various opportunities in the Indian market. In 2023, he even engaged a consultancy for expertise in marketing initiatives. He had to choose the target segment/s, develop a positioning strategy and create an effective marketing mix with very limited resources.
Complexity academic level
This case is designed for undergraduate and postgraduate students, offering a valuable teaching tool for essential marketing concepts, such as the marketing mix, segmentation, positioning and brand communication. It can be used in both core marketing courses and elective courses like brand management, consumer behavior and integrated marketing communication. The decision dilemma presented in the case enriches the understanding of these concepts, making it a valuable resource for marketing education.
Supplementary materials
Teaching notes are available for educators only.
Subject code
CSS 8: Marketing.
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Eonyou Shin, Doris H. Kincade and Jinhee Han
Virtual try-on (VTO) technology with three-dimensional (3D) body scanning in a mobile application is a relatively new technique for selling custom-fit apparel. VTO involves…
Abstract
Purpose
Virtual try-on (VTO) technology with three-dimensional (3D) body scanning in a mobile application is a relatively new technique for selling custom-fit apparel. VTO involves scanning and measuring one's body and visualizing the fit of a garment on a 3D avatar. The purpose of this study is to explore consumers' experiences toward the custom-fit T-shirts and online mass customization (MC) services using the VTO technology found in online consumer reviews (OCRs).
Design/methodology/approach
A total of 297 OCRs were collected from the Amazon's Made for You site that uses VTO technology for the MC process. A qualitative content analysis, within a mixed method research process, was used to determine systematically the meanings within qualitative data with quantitative results. In the qualitative approach, combinations of two coding processes were employed, which were concept-driven (i.e., deductive/a priori) and data-driven (i.e., inductive/emergent) coding processes. In the quantitative approach, the prevalence of each coding in terms of its valence was calculated based on frequencies. Intercoder reliability reached 96 per cent.
Findings
In OCRs of customized apparel products and online MC services using VTO technology, consumers described expectations, perceived performance, dis/confirmation, dis/satisfaction, outcomes of dis/satisfaction and descriptive information. Those with expectations often expressed skepticism about the product and the MC process using VTO technology at the pre-consumption stage. In OCRs, they used four product dimensions and two service dimensions of perceived performance. Consumers had positive (negative) confirmation when the performance of the T-shirts and/or services worked better (worse) than their expectations. The OCRs also included dis/satisfaction with a product and/or service, its outcomes and descriptive information.
Originality/value
This study identified a resulting framework to identify the content in OCRs of the custom-fit T-shirts and online MC services that use VTO technology. This study extends the expectation confirmation theory by adding multiple dimensions (i.e., four product dimensions and two service dimensions) as well as more outcomes of dis/satisfaction (not limited to repurchase intentions). This study provides practical suggestions for online MC companies who are using or planning to use VTO technology on how to improve consumers' satisfaction with customized T-shirts using VTO technology.
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Niromi Seram and Githmi Deshani Samarasekara
The person who works in an office starts his or her day with a choice of attire. The way they look in the office depends on the decisions they make on their clothes. This study…
Abstract
Purpose
The person who works in an office starts his or her day with a choice of attire. The way they look in the office depends on the decisions they make on their clothes. This study aims to identify the challenges faced by employees in the management positions in the Sri Lankan apparel industry who regularly come into contact with customers when they have to decide upon the most appropriate work attire for the position they are occupying in their organization.
Design/methodology/approach
Collection of data was primarily achieved through a well-structured questionnaire containing a mixture of open- and closed-ended questions. Targeted employees were managers, designers and merchandisers belonging to Generation Y whose total number was sufficient to obtain 50 feedbacks. Six more interviews were conducted with the intention of finding out more about this matter.
Findings
The majority of employees in the management positions in the Sri Lankan apparel industry who have regular contact with customers prefer to dress in “smart casual attire”, which means semi-formal clothes. Lack of availability of certain varieties of business attire in Sri Lanka proved to be a major challenge for some employees. Overpriced clothing, less comfortable clothing and lack of the right fabrics and designs were also challenges. These findings highlight the importance of manufacturing a wider variety of business attire using moderately priced but comfortable fabrics to make affordable and good quality products. There is a need to have a persuasive merchandising method to achieve good sales and provide a pleasant shopping experience to the customers.
Originality/value
Sri Lankan workwear retailers as well as apparel designers can benefit from the findings of this research as there is no evidence of any other studies on this subject. Therefore, this will help them to fill the market gap for business attire by addressing these challenges.
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Daniel Almaguer Buentello, Aurore Bardey and Jekaterina Rogaten
Our study explored and mapped cisgender female consumers' motivation and shopping experience for cross-sexual fashion, i.e. people shopping for clothes that are not designed or…
Abstract
Purpose
Our study explored and mapped cisgender female consumers' motivation and shopping experience for cross-sexual fashion, i.e. people shopping for clothes that are not designed or marketed for their biological sex.
Design/methodology/approach
Using a qualitative method, this study explored and mapped consumers' motivation and shopping experience for cross-sexual fashion. Thirteen cisgender female millennials were interviewed about their memories and perceptions of their pre-purchase, purchase and post-purchase experiences.
Findings
The findings defined the model of cross-sexual shopping behaviour in cisgender women with the following: (1) two pre-purchase schemes, i.e. fashioned gender schema and nonconformity motivation; (2) one pivotal and main purchase factor, i.e. time invested in the experience itself; and (3) two post-purchase schemes, i.e. use for comfort and use for protection. Practical marketing approaches in advertising and in-store experiences were identified in order to better target cross-sexual consumers.
Originality/value
Unisex fashion (or degendered fashion) has pioneered a fashion trend considered a growing trend in younger generations. To our knowledge, this study is the first research exploring regendered fashion (i.e. going beyond the cisgender and same-sex purchase approach of fashion consumerism) through the lens of cross-sexual consumer behaviour.
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Francine Richer and Louis Jacques Filion
Shortly before the Second World War, a woman who had never accepted her orphan status, Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, nicknamed ‘Little Coco’ by her father and known as ‘Coco’ to her…
Abstract
Shortly before the Second World War, a woman who had never accepted her orphan status, Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, nicknamed ‘Little Coco’ by her father and known as ‘Coco’ to her relatives, became the first women in history to build a world-class industrial empire. By 1935, Coco, a fashion designer and industry captain, was employing more than 4,000 workers and had sold more than 28,000 dresses, tailored jackets and women's suits. Born into a poor family and raised in an orphanage, she enjoyed an intense social life in Paris in the 1920s, rubbing shoulders with artists, creators and the rising stars of her time.
Thanks to her entrepreneurial skills, she was able to innovate in her methods and in her trendsetting approach to fashion design and promotion. Coco Chanel was committed and creative, had the soul of an entrepreneur and went on to become a world leader in a brand new sector combining fashion, accessories and perfumes that she would help shape. By the end of her life, she had redefined French elegance and revolutionized the way people dressed.
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Md Rokibul Hasan, Ishtehar Sharif Swazan and Debanjan Das
This study aims to examine the export competitiveness of Vietnam’s apparel sector by identifying the precise product categories that create its comparative advantage.
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to examine the export competitiveness of Vietnam’s apparel sector by identifying the precise product categories that create its comparative advantage.
Design/methodology/approach
Revealed comparative advantage (RCA) and normalized revealed comparative advantage (NRCA) form the research methodology, and the RCA/NRCA values are calculated for the 2011–2020 period.
Findings
In total, 29 out of 34 product categories at four-digit levels and 65 out of 217 subcategories at six-digit levels elicited a consistent export comparative advantage throughout the 10-year study timeframe. The study also identified 13 subcategories at six-digit levels, which indicated 10 consecutive years of relative disadvantages.
Research limitations/implications
The study’s findings have far-reaching implications for economic policy, development strategies and global economic integration. By providing a nuanced understanding of a country’s export strengths in the international apparel trade, this study offers valuable guidance for informed decision-making at various levels. The findings will serve as a significant source of information for policymakers and help them formulate novel policies aiming to diversify Vietnam’s apparel product offerings and export destinations. The results will also inform the government regarding the industry’s potential and attract necessary support, enabling it to grow further. This study reveals patterns in Vietnam’s apparel trade but does not provide insights into the underlying causes of comparative advantage.
Originality/value
The study provides an in-depth overview of Vietnam’s comparative advantages and disadvantages at two-, four- and six-digit harmonized system levels and helps understand Vietnam’s apparel export competitiveness.
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This chapter provides a study of how gambling companies use the cultural and social capital of Newcastle United Football Club, in the English Premier League, to establish a…
Abstract
This chapter provides a study of how gambling companies use the cultural and social capital of Newcastle United Football Club, in the English Premier League, to establish a connection with the club's fans to promote gambling. Newcastle United had two gambling sponsors during the period of this study, from 2017 to 2020, including a front of shirt sponsor, FUN88, an online gambling brand with a large following in Asia. Data were gathered from a range of sources, including from the social media platform, Twitter, to identify the methods the company used to engage fans and to encourage betting on the outcome of matches. The data from the study were explored thematically to describe the relationship developed between the football club and its principal gambling sponsor in order to drive business for the latter with the club's followers. The findings showed how FUN88 evoked Newcastle United's cultural tradition to promote gambling and generate business globally whilst the club actively promoted their ‘primary partner’ through its media channels. The lure of free match tickets was used to encourage fan engagement. Corporate practices promote the consumption of unhealthy commodities through their marketing whilst consumers (fans) are responsibilised for any harms engendered by their gambling practices. The ubiquity of gambling brands has enabled gambling to become a normalised part of football culture. The findings from this study show how FUN88 has used all elements of the sponsorship assemblage to create an emotional connection whilst engaging with Newcastle United's fans to increase consumption of its products.
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