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The purpose of this paper is to investigate if the fibers obtained from chicken feathers have a possibility to be used or not used in Winter outerwears as a filling material in terms of thermal insulation parameters.

In the study, thermal properties of the heat-resistant interlining samples produced from the chicken feathers fibers were analyzed in comparison with the samples produced from the industrial filling materials.

In the study, it was revealed that the use of chicken feathers fibers as filling material in Winter outerwears was possible.

The use of chicken feather fibers in Winter outerwears as a filling material will be an extremely low-cost alternative to pile flies of water birds which are sufficiently expensive filling materials.

A significant portion of the chicken feather, which is released as a by-product in the production of chicken meat, is destroyed as industrial waste by digging or burning. Some of this product is used in the production of such cheap products as poultry feed. In the case of the production of fibers from the chicken feather, the use of these fibers as a filler in Winter clothing along with environmental protection will allow the use of this product for the production of products of higher cost.

The use of feathers’ material as a filling material in Winter outerwears has been known since ancient times. Due to the rough structure and low elasticity of chicken feathers, chicken feathers are not the best raw material for this purpose. This study revealed that it is possible to use chicken feathers as a filling material in terms of heat protection. The study is original in this respect.

This paper concentrated on the objective evaluation of total hand value in knitted fabrics using the theory of neural networks and the comparison of two methods. For the objective evaluation of overall hand feeling in knitted fabric, 47 kinds of weft‐knitted and warp‐knitted fabrics were manufactured. The optimum construction of neural networks was investigated through the change of layer and neuron number. For the comparison of the two methods, a subjective test was carried out. Two techniques, KES‐FB system and neural network applied simulator, were compared using nine randomly selected knitted fabrics. These fabrics were used to show that the neural network adapted simulation method was in good agreement with subjective test results.

Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the case of knitted fabrics. Since, these fabric features are affected by fabric structure the aim of present research is to investigate how utilizing miss stitches and tuck stitches in the fabric structure for design purposes will influence the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock weft-knitted fabrics.

In this research, interlock fabrics with different number of miss or tuck stitches on successive Wales were produced and pilling performance and abrasion resistance of the fabrics were investigated.

The results revealed that increasing the number of miss/tuck stitches on successive Wales decreases the abrasion resistance and enhances the pilling tendency of the fabric. The presence of miss/tuck stitches on both sides of the fabric improves the abrasion resistance and pilling performance of the fabric compared to fabrics containing these stitches on one side of the fabric. Furthermore, the fabric resistance against abrasion and pilling is higher in fabrics consisting of miss stitches compared to fabrics consisting of tuck stitches.

The use of tuck and miss stitches in designing the weft-knitted fabrics is a common method for producing fabrics with variety of knit patterns. Since pilling and abrasion resistance of the fabric influence on its appearance and performance, and none of the previous research studied the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock-knitted fabrics from the point of presence of tuck and miss stitches on successive Wales of the fabric, this subject has been surveyed in the present research.

The purpose of this study is to investigate characteristics of apparel-related critical incidents that motivate both Generation Z and Y consumers to share electronic word-of-mouth (eWOM) via specific online channels.

The current research used an exploratory mixed-methods approach.

Qualitative findings of critical incidents revealed that the main situations that led to the spread of eWOM involved new purchases (49%), product quality (21%), pricing and promotions (19%), complaints (9%) and brand content (48%). Participants were motivated to spread information about the critical incidents by a desire to connect with friends and family (83%), help others (37%), influence others (48%) and express brand loyalty (32%). Quantitative results indicated significant relationships between critical incidents, motivations and eWOM channel choice.

This study has theoretical implications for apparel researchers attempting to gain insight into critical incidents that motivate consumers to engage in eWOM on specific channels in a positive or negative manner.

These findings are important for marketers as it appears that brand content does an efficient job at driving engagement on SM; marketers need to increase efforts to engage with consumers via feedback on websites, as this is an opportunity to counteract negative experiences and retain consumers’ loyalty.

To the best of the authors’ knowledge, the current research is the first to extend theories of communication and motivation to connect critical incidents with situational intrinsic and extrinsic motivations for spreading eWOM via online channels for Millennial and Generation Z consumers.

The purpose of this research was to investigate the effect of knit fabric stitch patterns, as indicated by fabric thickness variations, on moisture responsiveness for different seamless knitted wool-based fabrics.

Forty fabrics were created on a Santoni Top-2 circular knitting machine by using combinations of jersey, tuck and float stitches in combinations of wool/Nylon, wool, and spandex yarns. Physical properties of the knit fabrics as well as changes in fabric thickness during dry, wet, after 30 min air-drying and after 60 min air-drying conditions were compared. Repeated measures ANOVA tests and bivariate correlation analysis were conducted.

The results indicated that changes in moisture conditions had a significant effect on fabric thickness, and these changes differed by stitch pattern groups. Float patterns and tuck/rib patterns showed a continued relaxation of fabric thickness through all conditions, but tuck stitches and rib stitches showed a thickness recovery. Wool swatches, unlike the wool/Nylon swatches, increased their average thickness in after 60 min air-drying condition compared to 30 min air-drying condition.

This research documents the moisture responsive properties for wool based yarns, as emerging natural functional materials for seamless knitting industry, with applications in garments for activewear as well as healthcare.

This study aims to investigate the effects of the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure on the technological parameters and physical and mechanical properties of knitted fabrics.

The number of miss stitches and tuck stitches was increased from 3.6% to 8.3%, and the influence of this increase on knitwear properties was analyzed.

It was found that an increase from 3.6% to 8.3% leads to a decrease in the stretchability of knitwear in width from 330% to 290% and in length from 112% to 95%. With an increase from 5% to 6.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.6 g. And with an increase from 6.3% to 8.3%, the surface density of knitwear decreases by 11.8 g. It was also found that the presence of miss stitches and tuck stitches in the knit structure reduces the material consumption, and the presence of miss stitches increases the shape stability of the knitted fabric.

It was concluded that the number of miss stitches and tuck stitches has the strongest influence on surface density, followed by volume density.

According to the investigative research of the forecasters at the British Weather Services, the climate in England has changed over the last decade. Hot, dry summers and wearm, wet winters have smudged the distinction between seasons. As a result of the unpredictable climatic extremes of recent years, combined with such other factors as the recession, Sunday trading and lifestyle changes, a re‐evaluation of consumer buying patterns is required. Owing to the factors outlined above, there is a need for a new approach towards women's wear in England on the part of retailers and manufacturers. Their vision is required to realise the need for versatility in adopting core colours and transseasonal fabrics into collections, allowing for a continuum offering and thus, a breaking down of divisions between the four seasons. This report offers an insight into the fluctuating climate in England throughout recent years, outlining the weather sensitivity of the clothing industry. It analyses the influence of the unseasonal developments on consumer buying behaviour through the use of a regional questionnaire. It is appreciated, however, that the relationship does not exist in isolation and therefore other factors in the equation are acknowledged. The extent to which retailers are adapting their buying strategies in response to changing market demands is investigated, while methods of incorporating retail demand for transitional collections into manufacturing strategies are examined. In conclusion, research findings are reviewed and recommendations are provided for those in the clothing industry concerned with satisfying the changing demands of the women's wear market on the high streets of England.

The performance of the British fashion brand Burberry has been determined largely by the adoption of business models which, on occasion, have been detrimental to the company's performance. For the financial year ending 31 March 1998, Burberry saw its annual profits drop from £62m to £25m, leading financial analysts to describe it as “an outdated business with a fashion cachet of almost zero”. However, from 1997, at the instigation of a newly appointed chief executive, Rose Marie Bravo, Burberry has radically re‐aligned its business model and has enjoyed, as a result, significant improvements in its business performance. Drawing from extensive documentation that was published by Burberry in support of their initial public offering (IPO), this paper will provide a review of the history of Burberry; evaluate Burberry's re‐positioning strategy as defined by the firm in their IPO prospectus; and critically delineate Burberry's current business model.

The purpose of this paper is about understanding an existing situation in a South Indian village and developing a strategy to produce and market speciality hand knitting yarn, involving the unpaid labour (women) in the handloom industry. An observation method (field study) is used to identify an appropriate method for the design and development of speciality yarns.

Participatory action research is a recursive process that identifies methods leading to the choice of appropriate technology (AT) for the production of speciality yarn. A field study observation method was carried out to identify an AT that is acceptable for the community considering their socio-cultural background of the society. Once the technology (AT) was identified to design the speciality yarn, the research then tests the quality and marketability of the yarn.

The method used for product design and quality testing can be adapted by researchers and designers to develop craft items that can build a platform to start a small-scale business. The research describes a model/framework that could be used/investigated by other bodies in the future.

The limitation of AT and the approach taken for research cannot be clearly identified without testing the production method with the women in the village.

This research confirms that along with identifying a sustainable method of production for speciality yarn, it is very essential to ensure the quality of the product that can compete with other market-available hand knitting yarns.

The following paper has been recognised by the referees as an excellent and systematic piece of market research which we believe will be of great interest to our readers. It is included in this section of the Journal because we believe it will be of more immediate interest and more relevant to current consumer behaviour than might have been implied by presenting it in the academic papers section.