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1 – 10 of 398Quratulain Mohtashim, Muriel Rigout and Sheraz Hussain Siddique
Sulphur dyes are the most highly consumed colourants for cellulosic substrates owing to their reasonable cost and acceptable fastness. However, the use of noxious conventional…
Abstract
Purpose
Sulphur dyes are the most highly consumed colourants for cellulosic substrates owing to their reasonable cost and acceptable fastness. However, the use of noxious conventional reducing agent, sodium sulphide and impaired wash fastness against oxidative bleaching is gradually decreasing the market of these dyes. As the need for “Green” goods and services is raising public awareness, this paper aims to use a glucose-based biodegradable reducing agent in place of sodium sulphide to dye cotton fabrics with a range of commercial sulphur dyes. The study also proposes an aftertreatment method to improve the fastness properties of the dyeing.
Design/methodology/approach
The paper investigated the impact of a newly developed aftertreatment method on the fastness properties of dyeing. This involved the sequential application of a cationic fixing agent (Tinofix ECO) and tannin (Bayprotect CL) on the coloured fabrics and subsequent evaluation of colour strength, washing, light and rubbing fastness.
Findings
The effect of aftertreating the dyed cotton was found to significantly improve the light and wet rub fastness. The surface morphology of the dyeing remained unaffected as depicted by the absence of any finish residues.
Research limitations/implications
The protective effect of the cation–tannin aftertreatments was examined with a view to providing the necessary commercial performance; however, it was established that the dry rub fastness was either reduced or remained unaffected and the wash fastness to International Organization for Standardization 105 C09 was also marginal.
Originality/value
This finishing technique is novel and can be found useful for manufacturing sulphur-dyed products with the improved light and wet rub fastness.
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Quratulain Mohtashim, Muriel Rigout and Sheraz Hussain Siddique Hussain Yousfani
Sulphur dyes provide an inexpensive medium to dye cellulosic fibres with heavy shade depths. They offer moderate to good fastness to light and wet treatments. However, owing to…
Abstract
Purpose
Sulphur dyes provide an inexpensive medium to dye cellulosic fibres with heavy shade depths. They offer moderate to good fastness to light and wet treatments. However, owing to the environmental hazard produced by the use of sodium sulphide, the practical implication of these dyes is steadily decreasing. Moreover, these dyes are prone to oxidation causing pronounced fading on exposure to laundering. This paper aims to present the green processing of sulphur dyes by using a biodegradable reducing agent in place of sodium sulphide to dye cotton fabrics. The study also proposes after-treatments with tannin to improve the fastness properties of the dyeings.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study, dyeings were produced on cotton fabric with a range of C.I. Leuco Sulphur dyes, which were reduced with sodium sulphide and glucose. Sulphur dyeings were after-treated with an environment-friendly tannin-based product (Bayprotect CL (BP)); subsequently, the after-treated samples were evaluated for colour strength, wash, light and rubbing fastness.
Findings
A novel after-treatment method was developed, which substantially improved the wash fastness of C.I. Leuco Sulphur Black 1 dyeing to ISO 105 C06/C09 washing. However, the degree of this improvement varied for the other sulphur dyes used. The surface morphology and the possible mechanisms for the improved fastness properties were also discussed.
Research limitations/implications
The effect of after-treatment was significant for improving the wash fastness of sulphur black dyeings in particular, while the effect on other colours was minor. Significant improvements were observed for light and wet rub fastness for most of the dyeings, which signifies the importance of tannins as a finishing agent.
Practical implications
It is observed that the tannin-based product, BP, is found to provide the photoprotective effect by improving the lightfastness of the dyeings. Future research may involve the exploration of various tannins as a finishing agent to sulphur dyeings.
Originality/value
This novel finishing technique is found significant for improving the wash fastness of sulphur black 1 dyeings for both the reducing systems. Improvements were also observed for light and wet rub fastnesses for most of the dyeings.
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Abdul Azeem, Sharjeel Abid, Noman Sarwar, Shahzaib Ali, Ahsan Maqsood, Rashid Masood and Tanveer Hussain
The purpose of this study is to improve the mechanical properties and reduce the stiffness/harshness of fabric associated with the pigment dyeing of textiles.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to improve the mechanical properties and reduce the stiffness/harshness of fabric associated with the pigment dyeing of textiles.
Design/methodology/approach
The fabric was pigment dyed with the addition of three different softeners and binders. The fabric was then analyzed to have improved textile properties by measuring tear strength, bending length, crocking and washing fastness tests.
Findings
The conventional route of pigment dyeing (without any softener) imparted poor mechanical and rubbing fastness. The softener-added recipe provided better mechanical, rubbing and washing fastness, and the stiffness values were oppressed as well.
Practical implications
Because of reduced stiffness, increased fastness and mechanical properties, the use of softener with pigment dyeing can improve the market values and satisfaction of the dyed fabrics. The finished product would also have better life and endurance. The process can be modified easily to have a better end-product with a negligible cost addition in industrial process, as softeners are cheap and used in low (10-20 g/l) in industrial settings without affecting the required shades.
Originality/value
This is the first report, to the best of the author’s knowledge, on the optimization of pigment dyeing of PC fabric with the addition of Helizarin and perapret softeners in dyeing bath.
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Jitendra Pratap Singh and Sanjeev Kumar Ram
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of pick density, pile height and pile yarn count (both single- and double-ply yarn) on the colour fastness to crocking…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of pick density, pile height and pile yarn count (both single- and double-ply yarn) on the colour fastness to crocking, colour fastness to washing, colour fastness to water of woven velour printed terry fabrics. These variables have also been optimized for developing high-quality fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
Variables were selected on the basis of past research experience and samples were prepared according to the Box–Behnken design of experiments. The samples were tested for colour fastness to crocking, colour fastness to washing and colour fastness to water by following AATCC 8, AATCC 61, 2A and AATCC 107, respectively.
Findings
The colour fastness to crocking, washing and water of woven velour printed terry fabrics increases with the decrease in pile height and pick density. The colour fastness properties of the fabric increase with increase in fineness of the pile yarn count. Woven velour printed terry fabric with 16.25 picks per cm, 3.5 mm pile height and 16 Ne pile yarn will show best colour fastness. Woven velour printed terry fabric (plied pile yarn) with 16.25 picks per cm, 3.5 mm pile height and 2/24 Ne pile yarn will show best colour fastness
Practical implications
Proved a practical approach to control fastness properties of the fabric by changing fabric variables.
Originality/value
Colour fastness properties of woven velour printed terry fabrics have never been reported. The research work gives the better understanding to develop high quality of fabrics by reducing pile height and pick density. This will also reduce the cost of the fabric.
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The purpose of this paper is to extract the eco-friendly natural dye obtained from the flower of Spathodea campanulata and apply on silk fabric using combination of mordants. The…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to extract the eco-friendly natural dye obtained from the flower of Spathodea campanulata and apply on silk fabric using combination of mordants. The fastness properties of the flower of Spathodea campanulata dyed silk fabric have been studied using different combination (1:3, 1:1 and 3:1) of various mordants, such as myrobolan: nickel sulphate, myrobolan: aluminium sulphate, myrobolan: potassium dichromate, myrobolan: ferrous sulphate and myrobolan: stannous chloride. The wash, rub, light and perspiration fastness of the dyed samples have been evaluated.
Design/methodology/approach
For dyeing there are three methods are used. They are Pre mordanting, Simultaneous mordanting and Post mordanting methods. Dyed silk materials are tested by using wash fastness, rub fastness, light and perspiration fastness methods.
Findings
It is found that Spathodea campanulata dye can be successfully used for the dyeing of silk to obtain a wide range colours by using various combinations of mordants. With regards to colour fastness, test samples exhibit excellent fastness to washing, rubbing, except for pre-mordanting using myrobolan: potassium dichromate combination; and good to excellent fastness to perspiration in both acidic and alkaline media.
Originality/value
Availability of literature related to this work is not available. The study of combination of mordants of this natural dye on silk is a new research work and the large scale preparation is definitely very useful to the society.
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Akshita Agrawal and Sheetal Chopra
This paper aims to extract the dye colourant from teak leaves using different aqueous mediums (Alkaline, Neutral and Acidic); to characterize the dye in terms of yield %; ash…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to extract the dye colourant from teak leaves using different aqueous mediums (Alkaline, Neutral and Acidic); to characterize the dye in terms of yield %; ash content and moisture content; to standardize the conditions of application of dye extracted from teak leaves on selected natural and synthetic fabrics using selected natural and chemical mordants; to assess the colour value (K/S, L*, c*/ h*, a*, b*) and fastness properties of the dyed samples in terms of wash, rub, light and perspiration fastness; and to develop dyed and printed designs using combinations of mordant and extracted dye.
Design/methodology/approach
Stage 1 – Extraction of dye from teak leaves; and characterization of dye: yield% ash content and moisture content. Stage 2 – Preparation of fabrics for dyeing; optimization of mordanting parameters using pre mordanting method followed by post mordanting; and optimization of dyeing parameters. Stage 3 – Testing of dyed fabric – Colour Measurement; K/S L*a*b*/L*c*h*; fastness properties; wash fastness done in the Laundrometer using ISO 2 standard test method; crock fastness done by Crockmeter using AATCC 116–1995 test method; perspiration fastness tested by perspirometer using AATCC 15– 2007 test method; and light fastness assessment in Mercury Bulb Tungsten Filament (MBTF) light fastness tester using AATCC Test Method 16–2004.
Findings
The findings of the study show that waste teak leaves can be used as an effective dye for natural as well as synthetic fabrics giving a wide range of colours on wool, silk and nylon. The maximum relative colour strength of the extracted dye on unmordanted dyed samples was found to be at pH 5 on wool and silk and at pH 7 on nylon. A range of shades was obtained with the use of different mordants. The extracted dye showed moderate to good fastness properties in terms of light, wash, rub and perspiration on wool and silk and excellent on nylon. Fastness properties were found to improve with the application of mordants both as pre and post method. Various combinations of mordants and dye result in obtaining pleasing and harmonious colours which were used aesthetically for printing.
Research limitations/implications
Due to time constrains, extraction in an organic medium could not be done, which could be a further scope for study.
Practical implications
Dyeing using teak leaves is a step towards sustainability and effective waste utilization with promising potential for application on natural as well as synthetic fabrics. Good colour with added properties will provide excellent solutions for eco-friendly methods of dyeing.
Social implications
This paper demonstrates the new possibilities offered by innovative uses of by-products of the timber industry and open good prospects for alternatives to synthetic colourants and new markets for the textile industry. It offers a new tool for the development of slow fashion.
Originality/value
It is a common practice to prune the tree branches to improve wood quality; thus, leaves are easily available as by product from pruning and also from wood harvesting. In the present study, waste teak leaves (Tectona grandis L.) were used for the extraction of dye.
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Monthon Nakpathom, Buppha Somboon, Nootsara Narumol and Rattanaphol Mongkholrattanasit
The present study aims to focus on the feasibility of using an aqueous extract from the fruit shell of Camellia oleifera Abel as a source of natural colourant in printing-paste…
Abstract
Purpose
The present study aims to focus on the feasibility of using an aqueous extract from the fruit shell of Camellia oleifera Abel as a source of natural colourant in printing-paste preparation for pigment printing of cotton fabric. The effects of pre- and post-mordanting with three common metallic mordants, that is AlK(SO4)2, CuSO4 and FeSO4 on colour yield and colour fastness properties are also investigated.
Design/methodology/approach
The printing paste was prepared by mixing the concentrated Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shell extract solution with commercially available synthetic thickener and binder. The fabric sample was printed with the prepared printing paste using a flat-screen printing technique. To determine the effects of pre- and post-mordanting, AlK(SO4)2, CuSO4 and FeSO4 mordant aqueous solutions with various concentrations were applied using the pad-dry technique. Comparisons between printing with and without mordants were evaluated in terms of colour strength (K/S values) and colour fastness to washing, light, crocking and perspiration.
Findings
Without the mordants, the printed fabric had a yellowish brown shade with acceptable colour fastness properties, that is fair to good wash fastness, moderate light fastness, good to very good crocking fastness and fair to good perspiration fastness. The use of mordants, especially CuSO4 and FeSO4, not only enhanced colour strength but also imparted different colours to the fabric. Compared to the unmordanted fabrics, colour fastness properties were mostly comparable or improved in the mordanted fabrics depending on the type and concentration of mordants.
Research limitations/implications
Although in the case of CuSO4 the light fastness was increased to a good to very good level, it is recommended that the final print be produced with a concentration of less than 0.125 gL−1 to yield the print with the residual amount of Cu metal under the limit, that is less than 50 ppm as regulated by the Oeko-Tex® standard.
Practical implications
The obtained prints from Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shell extract provided shades with satisfactory colour fastness to washing, light, crocking and perspiration. The extract from Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shell has the potential to be used as an alternative to synthetic dye in the textile industry.
Originality/value
The use of Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shells, which are considered as abundant byproducts of tea seed oil production, as natural colouring agents for pigment printing of cotton fabric has been reported for the first time. It will minimise the environmental impact of this waste and create more valuable textile products.
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Lijuan Wang, Jian Li and Hao Feng
The purpose of this paper is to develop an environmentally friendly dyeing process using brown pigment from chestnut shells (BPFCS). This material is obtained from foodstuff…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to develop an environmentally friendly dyeing process using brown pigment from chestnut shells (BPFCS). This material is obtained from foodstuff residues and can make a significant contribution to reusing a reproducible biomass resource, economizing petroleum, avoiding water pollution and protecting human health.
Design/methodology/approach
The brown pigment is extracted from the raw material and purified with solvents containing 30 and 100 per cent EtOH. It is then used to dye flax fabric in aqueous solution with added NaCl as a dye accelerator. The effects of dyeing conditions and fastness are investigated. The pigment, and the pristine and dyed fabrics are analysed by Fourier‐transform infrared spectroscopy (FT‐IR) and the fabric samples are observed using a scanning electron microscope (SEM). Fastness to washing, rubbing and light are also measured.
Findings
BPFCS show promising dyeability on cellulosic fibers. White flax fabric is successfully dyed with the pigment to a yellow‐brown colour. The base dyeing conditions are as follows: pigment concentration 16 g/l, NaCl concentration 10 g/l, liquor ratio 10:1, temperature 95°C, dyeing time 40 min. The dyed fabrics have lower fastness to washing and higher fastness to rubbing and light. A total of 4 per cent Al3+ or Fe2+ treatment of dyed fabric can improve fastness to washing, but decrease fastness to rubbing. The yellowish‐brown samples are transformed to brown or dark‐green after Al3+ or Fe2+ treatment, respectively. The pigment is a mixture with abundant hydroxyl groups.
Research limitations/implications
The studies of dyeing conditions and fastness are carried out in detail as BPFCS used as a dye. However, a qualitative analysis of the pigment could not be performed due to the difficulty of separating the mixture. The BPFCS used in this paper can dye cellulosic fiber and can also be used to dye other fibers such as silk, wool and PET. Dyeing conditions for these other fibers need to be investigated.
Practical implications
BPFCS may play an important role in the dyeing industries because of its good dyeability, lack of toxicity and resistance to water, rubbing and light. The present work offers an environmentally friendly dye and a simple dyeing method.
Originality/value
At present, no report exists in the literature of work on dyeing flax fabric with BPFCS. This paper represents a preliminary study to determine the relationships of dyeing conditions to fastness and the role of mordant. BPFCS appears to be a new and practically useful natural dye.
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Ainur Rosyida, Suranto Suranto, Mohammad Masykuri and Margono Margono
This paper aims to examine the recipe for and standard methods of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extract. The dyeing of the fabric was performed by…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to examine the recipe for and standard methods of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extract. The dyeing of the fabric was performed by immersion it without heating for a short time to obtain the best results.
Design/methodology/approach
The dyeing experiment using cotton fabric with jackfruit wood extract was conducted by immersion at room temperature. The independent variables studied were the mordant method, type of mordant, mordant concentration, salt concentration and dyeing pH. The dependent variables were colour strength and colour fastness to washing and rubbing. The orthogonal array L16 (45) was used in the study to obtain the optimal values for each parameter of the response variables. The multi-response signal-to-noise (MRSN) method was used to optimise the five response variables with different quality characteristics so that the best parameters could be obtained based on the highest MRSN ratio value.
Findings
The best parameters were obtained at an MRSN value of 4.5254 under A3B3C1D2E4 conditions, namely, the dyeing process with post mordant, aluminium nitrate type mordant, mordant concentration of 10 g/L, salt concentration of 15 g/L and dyeing a pH: of 10. Under these conditions, the value of K/S was obtained at 1.893, colour fastness to washing (GS: 4) and (SS: 4–5), dry rubbing (SS: 5) and wet rubbing (SS: 4–5).
Research limitations/implications
Obtaining a standard recipe and method for dyeing cotton cloth with jackfruit wood extract by immersion without heating is expected to lead to the development of natural dyes, and especially their application on an industrial scale. This standard and method can be used as technical guidelines by industry. The use of aluminum nitrate as a mordant will help achieve optimal dyeing results. The use of polyaluminium chloride (PAC) mordant, which has the potential to produce high colour strength, and papaya fruit sap, which has the capacity to increase colour fastness, still need to be developed to improve the results of natural dyes.
Practical implications
The standard recipe and dyeing method will be able to improve the results of the dyeing of cotton fabrics with natural dyes. Short immersion dyeing without heating and the optimal results obtained are the main attractions for their use by the textile/batik industry, as the process is easier and a lower cost. The results of dyeing with dark colours and good colour fastness mean the textile products are of the higher quality demanded by consumers, thereby increasing sales. This will encourage the use of and increase the need for natural dyes by industry, consequently reducing the use of synthetic dyes.
Social implications
The use of natural dyes, chemical mordant from aluminum salts, and natural mordant from papaya fruit sap in the dyeing process in the textile/batik industry in Indonesia will produce eco-textile and eco-batik products that are environmentally friendly and of high quality. This in turn will increase consumer interest and sales, meaning that the income and economy of workers in the textile industry/crafts sector will also increase. In addition, the use of natural dyes with the selection of a safe mordant (not containing heavy metals) will reduce the use of synthetic dyes, which pollute and damage the aquatic environment.
Originality/value
This study found a standard recipe and method of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extracted by immersion without heating for a short time to obtain the best results. In addition, the discovery was of PAC, a new mordant which is effective in the use of natural dyes can give high colour strength to cotton fabric. In addition to the discovery of a new mordant, PAC, which has the potential to produce high colour strength, papaya fruit sap also has the capacity to increase colour fastness with the use of natural dyes from the flavonoid group.
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Quratulain Mohtashim, Fareha Asim and Salma Farooq
The application of synthetic dyestuffs in the dyeing and printing industries has been criticized because of the introduction of contaminants into the environment. With time, the…
Abstract
Purpose
The application of synthetic dyestuffs in the dyeing and printing industries has been criticized because of the introduction of contaminants into the environment. With time, the increasing international awareness of environment and ecology preservation has led to the industry’s attention towards natural dyes and their efficient usage compared to synthetic counterparts. Because the need for “Green” goods and services are rising public awareness, this paper aims to use a banana bio-resource waste to dye cotton fabric.
Design/methodology/approach
Factorial design with three variables, including parts of a banana plant, combination of alkalis and application temperature at three different levels, was studied to identify a significant correlation between the effect of these variables on the colour strength and fastnesses of the dyed cotton fabrics.
Findings
Dyeing samples achieved with various parts of banana are found to offer significant colour strength and a good wash and rub fastness. Experimental design analysis helped to formulate a standard workable dyeing recipe with the minimum use of resources exhibiting reasonably good wash and rub fastness.
Originality/value
This dyeing technique is novel and can be found useful for partially replacing synthetic dyes with natural colourants possessing good washing and rubbing fastness.
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