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Article
Publication date: 7 August 2017

Victor Kuzmichev, Aleksei Moskvin, Evgenii Surzhenko and Mariia Moskvina

Designing of clothes using the historical prototypes is very popular in contemporary practice. The purpose of this paper is to apply 2D and 3D computer-aided design (CAD) systems…

2054

Abstract

Purpose

Designing of clothes using the historical prototypes is very popular in contemporary practice. The purpose of this paper is to apply 2D and 3D computer-aided design (CAD) systems to reconstruct the historical pattern block and get the virtual image in accordance with the prototypes. New algorithm has been proved for men trousers taken from the nineteenth century.

Design/methodology/approach

Our approach is to develop a method of CAD to reconstruct historical trousers through analyzing and rebuilding of historical algorithms used to pattern blocks making, old anthropometrical database, and the pattern blocks shaping. Trousers construction, methods of trousers shaping by hands, body sizes schedule, manuals of 36 pattern cutting systems, and its sketches from nineteenth century have been analyzed. Then, by means of parameterization of historical pattern blocks, we have developed the universal trousers pattern cutting algorithm. The final step of the research has been devoted to virtual fitting technology that helps to determine the differences between historical trousers chosen as prototype and virtual image reconstructed by 3D CAD.

Findings

The authors have developed the parametrical module of 2D CAD and expanded the application of 3D CAD to re-designing of completely new object such as nineteenth century trousers pattern blocks in accordance with the historical method of shaping by hands. The conformity between the style of historical trousers and the virtual images reconstructed from two resources – pattern block and sketch silhouette – has been achieved.

Originality/value

This study demonstrated the contemporary approach to historical garments reconstruction by means of CAD. This study should help researchers of historical costume and practical specialists in apparel industry to apply historical heritage in a contemporary way.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 March 2024

Arzu Şen Kılıç, Can Ünal and Ziynet Ondogan

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement…

Abstract

Purpose

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers’ patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method.

Findings

According to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production.

Originality/value

In the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 September 2012

Anthony P. Pierlot, Keith W. Fincher and A. Lee King

The appearance retention of trouser creases, subject to tumble drying, for some trousers can be improved by the simple process of restraining the inner leg seam to the aligned…

Abstract

Purpose

The appearance retention of trouser creases, subject to tumble drying, for some trousers can be improved by the simple process of restraining the inner leg seam to the aligned outer seam of the trouser leg at a single point just below the crotch. The purpose of this paper is to assess the effectiveness of this approach on crease retention during laundering for a variety of commercially available trousers of different fibre compositions and blends.

Design/methodology/approach

Trousers made from various fibres and blends were purchased at retail and were washed and tumble dried as received, or after treatment (e.g. to provide shrink resistance for wool trousers or to improve the level of permanent set in the crease), with one leg restrained while the other was free and the impact on crease retention assessed.

Findings

The findings indicate that the use of a restraint device provides the largest improvement to the crease appearance for trousers constructed from wool or wool blends with polyester. Some level of permanent set is necessary for the restraint to function and an improvement in crease rating of up to three points (AATCC 1‐5 scale) is possible after five laundry cycles.

Practical implications

An effective prototype trouser restraint device, suitable for use in a domestic environment was constructed based on two rare earth magnets and should allow the consumer to improve the appearance retention of trousers, particularly for those containing appreciable amounts of wool.

Originality/value

The method allows the consumer to improve the crease retention of wool containing trousers, beyond what is possible through industrial processes, by using a laundry aid (restraint).

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 24 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 May 2023

Berihun Bizuneh and Abrham Destaw

The purpose of this study was to assess the body characteristics (body size, garment sizes worn, shape and body satisfaction) of Ethiopian young adult female consumers and their…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study was to assess the body characteristics (body size, garment sizes worn, shape and body satisfaction) of Ethiopian young adult female consumers and their effects on garment fit satisfaction and fit preferences of ready-to-wear garments such as T-shirts, blouses/shirts, skirts and jeans trousers.

Design/methodology/approach

Through a structured questionnaire, 418 usable responses were collected from young female university students. One-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) and multivariate ANOVA (MANOVA) were used to examine differences in garment fit satisfaction with the body characteristics of the respondents. Moreover, a multiple regression analysis was used to determine the effect of body characteristics and fit satisfaction on fit preferences in four of the ready-to-wear garments.

Findings

The body shapes of above half of the respondents were either bottom hourglass or spoon. The respondents were somewhat dissatisfied with the fit of the ready-to-wear garments, and above 70 per cent of them faced fit problems on average. BMI showed significant fit satisfaction differences in four of the garments, while garment sizes worn were significant only in skirts. However, no statistically significant difference was obtained with body shape. The effect of body characteristics and fit satisfaction on fit preferences was found significant in T-shirts and jeans trousers. The respondents preferred looser shirts and skirts irrespective of their body characteristics.

Originality/value

The paper is unique in comprehensively examining the relationship between body characteristics and garment fit satisfaction and their effects on fit preferences in selected garments in the context of female consumers in a developing country.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 November 2016

Anna Katarzyna Dabrowska

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the impact of design solutions used in clothing on the thermal resistance of the material systems from which the clothing is made, design…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the impact of design solutions used in clothing on the thermal resistance of the material systems from which the clothing is made, design solutions used in clothing on its thermal insulation and clothing size on its thermal insulation properties.

Design/methodology/approach

This study involved laboratory tests of clothing protecting against cold and textile systems used in this type of garment using a “skin model” test stand and a thermal manikin.

Findings

Analysis of the results obtained from tests carried out showed that the design solutions used in a garment can model its local and overall insulation. It was found that using a bib in trousers has a dominant influence on the thermal properties of clothing. An important parameter is also the use of a hood, as well as the length of the jacket. No significant effect of other structural solutions, such as jacket fastening, pockets and reflective tapes, on the thermal performance of the clothing set was noted.

Originality/value

Although the reports available in the literature pay a lot of attention to the impact of the design of clothing protecting against cold on its thermal performance, most of the presented research results relate to the aspects of fit, whereas the analyses of the effects of other aspects of garment construction on thermal properties are lacking. Therefore, the analysis of the impact of design solutions used in clothing on its thermal insulation properties is a key original factor of this paper.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 January 2022

Alphonce Nchalala, Tausi Alexander and Ismail W.R. Taifa

The garment factories focus on improving their production systems by involving innovative and advanced production methods and/or techniques to cope with fast-changing trends…

Abstract

Purpose

The garment factories focus on improving their production systems by involving innovative and advanced production methods and/or techniques to cope with fast-changing trends. Accordingly, this study aims to establish the standard allowed minutes (SAMs) and sewing efficiencies for Tanzania’s sewing industry, thus improving the production processes.

Design/methodology/approach

The research deployed a quantitative method. A stopwatch measured each operation for shirts and trousers to compute SAMs and efficiency. The shirt manufacturing processes involved 40 operations. Ten measurements were taken from different SL and LL industries operators for each operation. The trouser comprised 42 operations with 10 measurements taken from a different operator at the same garment factories for each operation.

Findings

SAMs for shirts at SL and LL factories were 29 and 31 min, respectively, while trousers were 30 and 34 min. The sewing efficiencies for shirts at both SL and LL factories were 83.98% and 81.93%, respectively. Similarly, the sewing efficiencies for trousers at both SL and LL factories were 81.25% and 80.95%, respectively.

Research limitations/implications

Since SAMs results are not established through literature rather a quantitative approach, the findings thus place crucial information for similar factories to benchmark from. Such information are crucial as factories could increase productivity and operational efficiency, reduce costs and non-value adding activities and estimate lead times. Notwithstanding the findings gathered, the study only established SAMs for two garments.

Originality/value

Although the garment industry has been developing over the years, this study was probably among the first studies in Tanzania that established SAMs. Theoretical underpinnings indicate that the factories use the experience to assemble garments, thus the need for this study.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 September 2002

Jungmi Oh and Susan S. Fiorito

To be a dominant company (in other words, a long‐term successful company), it is an enormous task to build brand loyalty, to reach brand loyal customers, and to give those…

10291

Abstract

To be a dominant company (in other words, a long‐term successful company), it is an enormous task to build brand loyalty, to reach brand loyal customers, and to give those customers’ product satisfaction. The purpose of this study was to identify clothing brand loyal customers regarding their buying behavior, self‐image, and demographics. Also, brand loyal customers’ post‐purchase outcomes based on clothing attributes were investigated. The questionnaire was based on a self‐administrated pilot study and included measuring brand loyalty, consumer decision making, and demographics. Data were from 328 questionnaires completed by adult women living in Seoul, Korea. The results showed that in purchasing tee shirts, 24.4 percent of the sample were brand loyal customers, 42.2 percent were brand loyal customers in purchasing trousers and 38.7 percent were brand loyal customers in purchasing jackets. The multiple discriminant analysis indicated several significant variables for profiling brand loyal customers and non‐brand loyal customers. High price, brand loyal customers and low/medium price, brand loyal customers significantly differed in post‐purchase satisfaction.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 6 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 August 2023

Berihun Bizuneh, Abrham Destaw, Fasika Hailu, Solomon Tsegaye and Bizuayehu Mamo

Sizing system is a fundamental topic in garment fitting. The purpose of this study was to assess the fit of existing police uniforms (shirt, jacket, overcoat and trousers) and…

Abstract

Purpose

Sizing system is a fundamental topic in garment fitting. The purpose of this study was to assess the fit of existing police uniforms (shirt, jacket, overcoat and trousers) and develop a sizing system for upper and lower body uniforms of Amhara policemen in Ethiopia.

Design/methodology/approach

In total, 35 body dimensions of 889 policemen were taken through a manual anthropometric survey following the procedures in ISO 8559:1989 after each subject was interviewed on issues related to garment fit. The anthropometric data were pre-processed, key body dimensions were identified by principal components analysis and body types were clustered by the agglomerative hierarchical clustering algorithm and verified by the XGBoost classifier in a Python programming environment. The developed size charts were validated statistically using aggregate loss and accommodation rate.

Findings

About 44% of the subjects encountered fit problems every time they own new readymade uniforms. Lengths and side seams of shirts, and lengths and waist girths of trousers are the most frequently altered garment sites. Analysis of the anthropometric measurements resulted in 13 and 15 sizes for the upper and lower bodies, respectively. Moreover, the comparison of the developed upper garment size chart with the existing size chart for a shirt showed a considerable difference. This indicates that inappropriate size charts create fit problems.

Originality/value

The study considers the analysis of fit problems and sizing system development in a less researched country. Moreover, the proposed data mining procedure and its application for size chart development is unique and workable.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 26 July 2013

Xuyuan Tao and Pascal Bruniaux

The study in this article aims to focus on a novel design concept of virtual 3D garment which is realized with the help of traditional patternmaking methodology and the CAD…

1196

Abstract

Purpose

The study in this article aims to focus on a novel design concept of virtual 3D garment which is realized with the help of traditional patternmaking methodology and the CAD softwares in order to directly conceive the virtual clothing on a mannequin morphotype in cyberspace in consideration of the ease allowance between the body shape and the garment.

Design/methodology/approach

The method of acquisition of 3D human body was explained at first. Then the process of creation of garment 3D model associated with the draping technique was presented. The superposition of patterns from the 3D modeling and the traditional method used in industries was done in order to visualize the right results. At last, the dynamic validation of the garment was carried out in order to analyze the fitting results of try‐on simulation.

Findings

The 3D modeling technique method based on the draping technique shows that the garment fits perfectly to the body shape of the wearer.

Social implications

For the ready‐to‐wear manufacture, this method can be also involved on the parametric mannequin in order to reduce the lifetime of development by eliminating the process of pattern grading in the future.

Originality/value

The originality of this article comes from the combination of the traditional draping technique with the advanced CAD softwares in consideration of the fitting and draping of the garment. This concept is used not only in the context of mass customized product but also in mass production for the ready‐to‐wear apparel industries. The patterns are directly adjusted in 3D and can immediately be tried on in 3D simulation. As a result, the process in 2D patternmaking design can be eliminated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 25 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 February 1991

Pamela S. Rosser, Jude T. Sommerfeld and Wayne C. Tincher

A discrete‐event simulation of a utility trouser manufacturing plant is described. The simulation model, written in the GPSS/PC language, was validated with operating data from a…

199

Abstract

A discrete‐event simulation of a utility trouser manufacturing plant is described. The simulation model, written in the GPSS/PC language, was validated with operating data from a large plant with a nominal production capacity of 40,000 pairs of men's denim trousers per week. Specifically, the simulation results closely agreed with key plant operating figures, such as production rate, number of work stations, work‐in‐process inventory and residence time in production.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 3 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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