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Article
Publication date: 7 August 2017

Victor Kuzmichev, Aleksei Moskvin, Evgenii Surzhenko and Mariia Moskvina

Designing of clothes using the historical prototypes is very popular in contemporary practice. The purpose of this paper is to apply 2D and 3D computer-aided design (CAD…

Abstract

Purpose

Designing of clothes using the historical prototypes is very popular in contemporary practice. The purpose of this paper is to apply 2D and 3D computer-aided design (CAD) systems to reconstruct the historical pattern block and get the virtual image in accordance with the prototypes. New algorithm has been proved for men trousers taken from the nineteenth century.

Design/methodology/approach

Our approach is to develop a method of CAD to reconstruct historical trousers through analyzing and rebuilding of historical algorithms used to pattern blocks making, old anthropometrical database, and the pattern blocks shaping. Trousers construction, methods of trousers shaping by hands, body sizes schedule, manuals of 36 pattern cutting systems, and its sketches from nineteenth century have been analyzed. Then, by means of parameterization of historical pattern blocks, we have developed the universal trousers pattern cutting algorithm. The final step of the research has been devoted to virtual fitting technology that helps to determine the differences between historical trousers chosen as prototype and virtual image reconstructed by 3D CAD.

Findings

The authors have developed the parametrical module of 2D CAD and expanded the application of 3D CAD to re-designing of completely new object such as nineteenth century trousers pattern blocks in accordance with the historical method of shaping by hands. The conformity between the style of historical trousers and the virtual images reconstructed from two resources – pattern block and sketch silhouette – has been achieved.

Originality/value

This study demonstrated the contemporary approach to historical garments reconstruction by means of CAD. This study should help researchers of historical costume and practical specialists in apparel industry to apply historical heritage in a contemporary way.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 28 September 2012

Anthony P. Pierlot, Keith W. Fincher and A. Lee King

The appearance retention of trouser creases, subject to tumble drying, for some trousers can be improved by the simple process of restraining the inner leg seam to the…

Abstract

Purpose

The appearance retention of trouser creases, subject to tumble drying, for some trousers can be improved by the simple process of restraining the inner leg seam to the aligned outer seam of the trouser leg at a single point just below the crotch. The purpose of this paper is to assess the effectiveness of this approach on crease retention during laundering for a variety of commercially available trousers of different fibre compositions and blends.

Design/methodology/approach

Trousers made from various fibres and blends were purchased at retail and were washed and tumble dried as received, or after treatment (e.g. to provide shrink resistance for wool trousers or to improve the level of permanent set in the crease), with one leg restrained while the other was free and the impact on crease retention assessed.

Findings

The findings indicate that the use of a restraint device provides the largest improvement to the crease appearance for trousers constructed from wool or wool blends with polyester. Some level of permanent set is necessary for the restraint to function and an improvement in crease rating of up to three points (AATCC 1‐5 scale) is possible after five laundry cycles.

Practical implications

An effective prototype trouser restraint device, suitable for use in a domestic environment was constructed based on two rare earth magnets and should allow the consumer to improve the appearance retention of trousers, particularly for those containing appreciable amounts of wool.

Originality/value

The method allows the consumer to improve the crease retention of wool containing trousers, beyond what is possible through industrial processes, by using a laundry aid (restraint).

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 24 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 7 November 2016

Anna Katarzyna Dabrowska

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the impact of design solutions used in clothing on the thermal resistance of the material systems from which the clothing is made…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the impact of design solutions used in clothing on the thermal resistance of the material systems from which the clothing is made, design solutions used in clothing on its thermal insulation and clothing size on its thermal insulation properties.

Design/methodology/approach

This study involved laboratory tests of clothing protecting against cold and textile systems used in this type of garment using a “skin model” test stand and a thermal manikin.

Findings

Analysis of the results obtained from tests carried out showed that the design solutions used in a garment can model its local and overall insulation. It was found that using a bib in trousers has a dominant influence on the thermal properties of clothing. An important parameter is also the use of a hood, as well as the length of the jacket. No significant effect of other structural solutions, such as jacket fastening, pockets and reflective tapes, on the thermal performance of the clothing set was noted.

Originality/value

Although the reports available in the literature pay a lot of attention to the impact of the design of clothing protecting against cold on its thermal performance, most of the presented research results relate to the aspects of fit, whereas the analyses of the effects of other aspects of garment construction on thermal properties are lacking. Therefore, the analysis of the impact of design solutions used in clothing on its thermal insulation properties is a key original factor of this paper.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 1 September 2002

Jungmi Oh and Susan S. Fiorito

To be a dominant company (in other words, a long‐term successful company), it is an enormous task to build brand loyalty, to reach brand loyal customers, and to give those…

Abstract

To be a dominant company (in other words, a long‐term successful company), it is an enormous task to build brand loyalty, to reach brand loyal customers, and to give those customers’ product satisfaction. The purpose of this study was to identify clothing brand loyal customers regarding their buying behavior, self‐image, and demographics. Also, brand loyal customers’ post‐purchase outcomes based on clothing attributes were investigated. The questionnaire was based on a self‐administrated pilot study and included measuring brand loyalty, consumer decision making, and demographics. Data were from 328 questionnaires completed by adult women living in Seoul, Korea. The results showed that in purchasing tee shirts, 24.4 percent of the sample were brand loyal customers, 42.2 percent were brand loyal customers in purchasing trousers and 38.7 percent were brand loyal customers in purchasing jackets. The multiple discriminant analysis indicated several significant variables for profiling brand loyal customers and non‐brand loyal customers. High price, brand loyal customers and low/medium price, brand loyal customers significantly differed in post‐purchase satisfaction.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 6 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

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Article
Publication date: 26 July 2013

Xuyuan Tao and Pascal Bruniaux

The study in this article aims to focus on a novel design concept of virtual 3D garment which is realized with the help of traditional patternmaking methodology and the…

Abstract

Purpose

The study in this article aims to focus on a novel design concept of virtual 3D garment which is realized with the help of traditional patternmaking methodology and the CAD softwares in order to directly conceive the virtual clothing on a mannequin morphotype in cyberspace in consideration of the ease allowance between the body shape and the garment.

Design/methodology/approach

The method of acquisition of 3D human body was explained at first. Then the process of creation of garment 3D model associated with the draping technique was presented. The superposition of patterns from the 3D modeling and the traditional method used in industries was done in order to visualize the right results. At last, the dynamic validation of the garment was carried out in order to analyze the fitting results of try‐on simulation.

Findings

The 3D modeling technique method based on the draping technique shows that the garment fits perfectly to the body shape of the wearer.

Social implications

For the ready‐to‐wear manufacture, this method can be also involved on the parametric mannequin in order to reduce the lifetime of development by eliminating the process of pattern grading in the future.

Originality/value

The originality of this article comes from the combination of the traditional draping technique with the advanced CAD softwares in consideration of the fitting and draping of the garment. This concept is used not only in the context of mass customized product but also in mass production for the ready‐to‐wear apparel industries. The patterns are directly adjusted in 3D and can immediately be tried on in 3D simulation. As a result, the process in 2D patternmaking design can be eliminated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 25 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 1 February 1991

Pamela S. Rosser, Jude T. Sommerfeld and Wayne C. Tincher

A discrete‐event simulation of a utility trouser manufacturing plant is described. The simulation model, written in the GPSS/PC language, was validated with operating data…

Abstract

A discrete‐event simulation of a utility trouser manufacturing plant is described. The simulation model, written in the GPSS/PC language, was validated with operating data from a large plant with a nominal production capacity of 40,000 pairs of men's denim trousers per week. Specifically, the simulation results closely agreed with key plant operating figures, such as production rate, number of work stations, work‐in‐process inventory and residence time in production.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 3 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 9 May 2008

Yu Chen, Xianyi Zeng, Michel Happiette, Pascal Bruniaux, Royer Ng and Winnie Yu

The purpose of this paper is to present recent work for optimizing the estimation of ease allowance of a garment using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to present recent work for optimizing the estimation of ease allowance of a garment using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation.

Design/methodology/approach

The current method first generates a number of fuzzy models each corresponding to one specific key body part and one specific wearer's movement and then aggregates all the values of ease allowance generated from these fuzzy models using the ordered weighted averaging (OWA) operator. The aggregated ease allowance takes into account geometric measures on all representative human bodies, comfort sensations of wearers related to all movements or actions and different styles of trousers (tight, normal and loose). The weights of the OWA operator can be used to adjust the compromise between the style of garments and the comfort sensation of wearers. The related weights of the OWA operator are automatically determined according to designer's linguistic criteria characterizing the relationship between wearer's movements and the features of the garment to be designed.

Findings

Based on the optimized values of ease allowance generated from fuzzy models related to different key body positions and different wearer's movements, the authors obtain a personalized ease allowance, permitting to further improve the wearer's fitting perception of a garment. The effectiveness of the method has been validated in the design of trousers of jean type. It can also be applied for designing other types of garment.

Originality/value

Integration of wearer's body shapes and human comfort in the design of personalized garments.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 20 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 1 November 2007

Agnieszka Cichocka, Pascal Bruniaux and Vladan Koncar

This paper presents an introduction to the modelling of virtual garment design process in 3D… Our global project of virtual clothing design, along with the conception of a…

Abstract

This paper presents an introduction to the modelling of virtual garment design process in 3D… Our global project of virtual clothing design, along with the conception of a virtual adaptive mannequin, is devoted to creating and modelling garments in 3D. Starting from ideas of mass customization, e-commerce and the need of numerical innovations in the garment industry, this article presents a model of virtual garment and methodology enabling virtual clothing to be conceived directly on an adaptive mannequin morphotype in 3D. A short description of the overall garment model under constraints is presented. To explain the overall methodology, the basic pattern of trousers is given. The global model of garment creation in 3D is composed of three parts - a human body model, an ease model and a garment model. The most essential part is the ease model, which is necessary for the proposed process of garment modelling. After describing each garment modelling element influencing this process, a detailed presentation of the ease model in relation to the garment model is proposed. The combination of the previously mentioned models may be considered as 2 interconnected sub-models. The first sub-model is linked with the front pattern position on the body and the second with the back pattern position on the trousers with appropriate ease values. In order to execute the identification procedure of the correct ease values and consequently their right positions on the human body, an algorithm of identification is proposed. The two sub-models are strongly connected as in the feedback effect caused by the interactions of the trouser front and back patterns. The aforementioned connection phenomenon appears during modelling and it depends on the structure of the proposed ease model. The relatively significant number of parameters requires the use of the identification technique. Finally, the superposition of virtual and real patterns was done in order to visualise the results.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 11 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 1 June 2015

Huirong Cui and Yinong Yan

Garment manufacturing is a traditional industry with global competition. The most critical part is streamline, as it generally involves a great number of operations. The…

Abstract

Purpose

Garment manufacturing is a traditional industry with global competition. The most critical part is streamline, as it generally involves a great number of operations. The purpose of this paper is to, based on the model of group technology (GT), sum up the methods of assembly line optimization to optimize the streamline, so that the machines of the workstation can perform the assigned tasks with a balanced loading.

Design/methodology/approach

In this paper, the methods of obtaining and optimizing data includes literature, research and optimization methods of basing on GT model. The main direction of literature has two aspects: Lean production theory and streamline assignment. Research mainly concludes three aspects: research place, research object and the research content. The method of time determination is averaging the testing values of repeated measurements. Optimization methods of basing on GT model mainly include combination of the same type of technologic processes in sequence, combination of independent branch process, the combination of mainstream and branch processes and offside combination of the same type of processes.

Findings

After optimization, in the utilization rate of equipment: hanging system ratio was increased from 22.95 to 62.12 percent, which greatly improved the utilization rate of enterprise equipment. In equipment layout: hanging equipment layout was turned linear type into “U” type, which realized the synchronization of production. GT model will be well applied in the garment production streamline. Compared with other enterprises, A company has large garment hanging system, which reflects the advanced, comprehensive, representative. Therefore, the paper applied optimization methods to trousers, production efficiency has been improved greatly, the utilization rate of equipment is promoted and reworking phenomenon is reduced greatly.

Research limitations/implications

Through the optimization of the production process and equipment layout, the A company’s compiling efficiency has been greatly improved, but how can the system become computerized, accurately and intelligence, which has been an important direction of research now.

Practical implications

By optimizing, it is fully proved that applying GT to the streamline optimization is feasible. GT is an important branch of Lean production, summing up the optimization methods basing on the GT model to optimize the streamline not only enriches the relevant theory research, but also provides a theoretical basis for the practical production. GT model not only can be used in the shirt production process, as for other production processes, for example, trousers, skirts can also be widely applied, which realizes the theory application in the practical production.

Originality/value

The originality of this paper is that through the analysis of the model of GT, the paper sums up the methods of assembly line optimization to optimize the streamline. Although the model of GT is used widely in electronics, automobile and industry, it is relatively weak in the optimization of garment production line, there are not many literatures on practical application of group technology in the clothing. Besides, the paper is applied to practical production, which not only can improve production efficiency, but also make the theoretical research have basis and combine the theory and practical production.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 18 September 2020

Joëlle Vanhamme, Adam Lindgreen and Michael Beverland

This study aims to explore surprising gifts received and given by close relations to identify the variables involved in creating surprising gifts. The analysis of the…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to explore surprising gifts received and given by close relations to identify the variables involved in creating surprising gifts. The analysis of the viewpoints of the giver and the recipient, reflecting their profiles, leads to recommendations for retailers.

Design/methodology/approach

An exploratory, small-scale, open-ended questionnaire (48 respondents) produces 43 (38) accounts of surprising gifts given (received), informed further by in-depth interviews (eight informants, both givers and recipients of surprising gifts).

Findings

This study identifies and elaborates on the variables (why, when, what, where, who and how, and their combinations) that define surprising gift giving, from both giver and recipient perspectives. The findings indicate a paradox: even if givers or recipients prefer a surprising gift, they might give or wish for an unsurprising gift to avoid disappointment.

Research limitations/implications

Further research should confirm the findings using representative samples. Moreover, gender differences in surprising gift giving should be investigated further. Finally, the exact characteristics and properties that make common objects potential candidates for successful surprising gifts should be studied further.

Practical implications

The discussion has relevant implications for manufacturers and retailers. For example, if recipients are surprised, happy and satisfied, they likely exhibit higher brand recall. The recipient’s (happy versus not happy) emotions also have spillover effects on the giver’s. Thus, retailers should provide assistance in the store and advertise their salespeople as experts who can offer advice about selecting appropriate gifts. The exact characteristics and properties that make common objects potential candidates for successful surprising gifts should be studied further.

Originality/value

The systematic account of all six variables, not previously analyzed in the literature, provides rich insights into surprising gift giving. The discussion of the study of givers and recipients supplements these insights.

Details

European Journal of Marketing, vol. 55 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0309-0566

Keywords

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