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Article
Publication date: 1 October 2000

Tae Jin Kang and Sung Min Kim

An automatic garment pattern generation system has been developed for the three‐dimensional apparel CAD system. To substitute the garment fitting process, which requires lots of…

1250

Abstract

An automatic garment pattern generation system has been developed for the three‐dimensional apparel CAD system. To substitute the garment fitting process, which requires lots of trial and error in the traditional pattern generation methods, we developed a new direct pattern generation method using body‐garment shape matching process. In this method, we first generated a body model using three‐dimensionally measured anthropometric data and transformed it to have a convex shape similar to that of a commonly used dummy model in garment design process. Then a typical garment model has been defined by measuring the surface information of a dummy model using stereoscopy and adjusting its shape considering the geometrical constraints of the underlying body model to obtain the optimum fit garment patterns. Finally, we developed a pattern flattening algorithm that flattens the three‐dimensionally adjusted garment model into two‐dimensional patterns considering the anisotropic properties of the fabric to be used.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 12 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 6 March 2017

Jun Zhang, KyoungOk Kim and Masayuki Takatera

The purpose of this paper is to propose a size-changing method with three-dimensional (3D) garment modeling for various body sizes considering vertical body proportions in…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to propose a size-changing method with three-dimensional (3D) garment modeling for various body sizes considering vertical body proportions in addition to horizontal dimensions, while preserving the silhouette and ease of the original garment.

Design/methodology/approach

Cross-sectional dimensions and shapes of one dress form (the standard body) and jacket bodice were obtained by 3D scanning. The authors calculated horizontal multiplication factors of the relationship between the standard body and jacket bodice, and vertical body proportions. A target dress form was deformed using multiplication factors and vertical body proportions to construct a garment model that fitted the dress form. The method was verified using three different dress forms. The bodices of the jackets were compared with those obtained without adjusting vertical proportions.

Findings

Employing the proposed method, jacket bodices were made and fitted on target bodies while preserving the original shape. Jackets bodices made without considering vertical proportions had many wrinkles and deformed shape and poor fit around the bust line owing to the different vertical proportions. The vertical proportion is thus an important factor in the 3D garment modeling of garments of different size fitted on a body.

Research limitations/implications

The proposed method is a new size-changing or grading method for a bodice that preserves the original silhouette.

Originality/value

The proposed modeling method allows the construction of jacket bodice models and jackets of different size considering vertical body proportions. The method is applicable when making individually tailored garments or ready-to-wear garments for different targets.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 October 2003

Yves Chiricota

We propose a three‐dimensional (3D) geometrical modelling algorithm based on the mapping of 2D objects on a 3D model. Our methodology can be applied to the automatic modelling of…

Abstract

We propose a three‐dimensional (3D) geometrical modelling algorithm based on the mapping of 2D objects on a 3D model. Our methodology can be applied to the automatic modelling of many “secondary” garment parts like collars, waist bands, pockets, etc. The results obtained are accurate in relation to the original flat patterns. Our approach is oriented towards the automation of the process of 3D garment modelling from flat patterns. An underlying constraint behind our approach consists in minimizing user intervention in the modelling process. Our method leads to an intuitive interface for novice users.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 15 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 6 March 2019

Yeonghoon Kang and Sungmin Kim

The purpose of this paper is to develop the core module of computer-aided three-dimensional garment pattern design system.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to develop the core module of computer-aided three-dimensional garment pattern design system.

Design/methodology/approach

A progressive mesh cutting algorithm and mesh reshaping algorithm have been developed to cut a single mesh into multiple patches. A flat projection algorithm has been developed to project 3D patches into 2D patterns.

Findings

The software developed in this study is expected to enable its users to design complex garment patterns without the in-depth knowledge of pattern design process.

Research limitations/implications

The mesh model used in this study was a fixed model. It will be extended to a deformable garment model that can be resized according to the underlying body model

Practical implications

The software developed in this study is expected to reduce the time required for time-consuming and trial-and-error-based pattern design process.

Social implications

Fashion designers will be able to design complex patterns by themselves and the dependence upon expert patterners could be reduced

Originality/value

The progressive mesh cutting algorithm developed in this study can cut a mesh model using arbitrary lines. The mesh reshaping algorithm can improve the mesh quality of divided patches to increase the numerical stability during subsequent pattern flattening process. The flip removal algorithm can effectively remove the partially flipped mesh elements.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 26 July 2013

Xuyuan Tao and Pascal Bruniaux

The study in this article aims to focus on a novel design concept of virtual 3D garment which is realized with the help of traditional patternmaking methodology and the CAD…

1196

Abstract

Purpose

The study in this article aims to focus on a novel design concept of virtual 3D garment which is realized with the help of traditional patternmaking methodology and the CAD softwares in order to directly conceive the virtual clothing on a mannequin morphotype in cyberspace in consideration of the ease allowance between the body shape and the garment.

Design/methodology/approach

The method of acquisition of 3D human body was explained at first. Then the process of creation of garment 3D model associated with the draping technique was presented. The superposition of patterns from the 3D modeling and the traditional method used in industries was done in order to visualize the right results. At last, the dynamic validation of the garment was carried out in order to analyze the fitting results of try‐on simulation.

Findings

The 3D modeling technique method based on the draping technique shows that the garment fits perfectly to the body shape of the wearer.

Social implications

For the ready‐to‐wear manufacture, this method can be also involved on the parametric mannequin in order to reduce the lifetime of development by eliminating the process of pattern grading in the future.

Originality/value

The originality of this article comes from the combination of the traditional draping technique with the advanced CAD softwares in consideration of the fitting and draping of the garment. This concept is used not only in the context of mass customized product but also in mass production for the ready‐to‐wear apparel industries. The patterns are directly adjusted in 3D and can immediately be tried on in 3D simulation. As a result, the process in 2D patternmaking design can be eliminated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 25 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 November 2015

Jun Zhang, Noriaki Innami, KyoungOk Kim and Masayuki Takatera

The purpose of this paper is to produce an upper garment model for three-dimensional (3D) pattern making. This model will take into account ease allowance and silhouette, and will…

709

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to produce an upper garment model for three-dimensional (3D) pattern making. This model will take into account ease allowance and silhouette, and will be used to propose a size-changing method.

Design/methodology/approach

The authors used two real garment bodices with a surface suitable for pattern development. The garments were fitted to a designated dummy body and scanned. Using the scanned data, the authors made those upper garment basic models suitable for 3D pattern making. Using one model, the authors produced two bodice patterns, one with the original seam lines and the other with seam lines that differed from the original ones, and then compared them with the original jacket bodice. To construct garment models that were different in size from the basic model, the authors calculated multiplication factors of cross-sectional dimensions (in the front, back and lateral directions) between the basic garment and the actual garment shape worn on a body for each basic model. Using the multiplication factors, the authors made two different size garment models from two different size dummies for each basic model. The authors used these models to make patterns and garments.

Findings

The reproduced jackets had similar shapes, silhouettes and ease allowances to the original jacket. Two garments of different sizes for each original jacket were made using the multiplication factors, and these garments also had similar silhouettes to the original jacket.

Research limitations/implications

The implications of the work could be the new size-changing method.

Originality/value

Using the modeling method, the authors were able to make complex new garment models that take into account ease allowance and silhouette. The ability to size these models up or down using multiplication factors could be a substitute for the grading method.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 May 2011

Simeon Gill

The purpose of this paper is to provide a theoretical model for considering ease numerically in the clothing pattern. Classifying the pattern as a geometric Cartesian coordinate…

2303

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to provide a theoretical model for considering ease numerically in the clothing pattern. Classifying the pattern as a geometric Cartesian coordinate system, this model proposes the need to quantify the partly coincident variables of ease, which will enable greater control over garment fit and function, using traditional or CAD/CAM methods.

Design/methodology/approach

The principles of pattern/garment dimensions are considered with support from analysis of literature and contributing factors to the variables of ease are categorised. These principles support a proposed theoretical model for considering pattern/garment dimensions, in the numeric format that they exist within the context of pattern construction.

Findings

Pattern construction occurs in a 2D Cartesian coordinate system, guided by body dimensions and ease. This can be modelled in the form of an algorithm relating to the placement of cardinal points defining the pattern outline. Recognition of the numerical nature of the pattern, suggests the need to quantify the coincident variables of ease, to achieve greater control over garment fit and function.

Research limitations/implications

Few sources exist enabling the recognition of ease requirements in the pattern/garment and when guidance on ease is presented, there is little rationale as to how it has been established, or what contributes to its definition.

Originality/value

The paper shows how current methods of pattern construction can be modelled more effectively, recognising the geometric nature on which they are based. Modelling these relationships highlights where quantification can be provided, by existing knowledge or future research.

Details

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, vol. 15 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1361-2026

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 April 2003

Jing‐Jing Fang

This preliminary research revolute the conventional clothing design process by true designs from three‐dimensional (3D) rather than two‐dimensional. The aim of the research is to…

1214

Abstract

This preliminary research revolute the conventional clothing design process by true designs from three‐dimensional (3D) rather than two‐dimensional. The aim of the research is to develop a handy 3D clothing design software tool for general garment designers. Work carried out in this paper is the preliminary result of the 3D software infrastructure. In addition, 3D collar design based on a mathematical formula is accomplished as a template for other garment portions. Object‐oriented technology is invoked as a tool for software developing. The system is divided into two major modulus, the user interface and the kernel. The user interface is used to collect messages from the users, and then send it to the kernel for further computations. Moreover, it exhibits real‐time pictures received from the kernel. The major work of the kernel is to handle the operations that are called by the user interface. In this paper two basal collars, convertible collar and shirt collar, are illustrated as diversified figurations.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 15 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 11 March 2021

Md Aynul Hoque, Rajah Rasiah, Fumitaka Furuoka and Sameer Kumar

This paper aims to identify key theoretical cornerstones and research trends in the apparel industry. It also compares theoretical bases with those of the general research domain…

1373

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to identify key theoretical cornerstones and research trends in the apparel industry. It also compares theoretical bases with those of the general research domain in technology adoption literature and, thus, provides future policy guidelines for practitioners and research gaps for further studies.

Design/methodology/approach

Documents were collected from the Web of Science (core collection) database using systematic methods. The bibliometric coupling and co-citation analyses were conducted using VOSviewer software to construct theoretical cornerstones and research trends in the apparel industry.

Findings

Literature in the apparel industry focuses mainly on the diffusion of innovation and the theory of reasoned action. Hence, the literature lacks investigations of technology–organization–environment and institutional theories for technology adoption in the apparel industry. This study also traces six clusters of prevalent research trends: radiofrequency identification, virtual-try on technology for e-commerce, computer-aided design, Industry 4.0 technologies, virtual-try on technology in design and information technology.

Originality/value

Little research is done on theoretical cornerstones on technology adoption in the apparel industry. This study looks into the theoretical bases for technology adoption, research trends in the apparel supply chain and calls for future research necessities.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 25 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 September 2017

Kaixuan Liu, Jianping Wang, Chun Zhu, Edwin Kamalha, Yan Hong, Junjie Zhang and Min Dong

The purpose of this paper is to propose a relatively simple and rapid method to create a digital human model (DHM) to serve clothing industry.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to propose a relatively simple and rapid method to create a digital human model (DHM) to serve clothing industry.

Design/methodology/approach

Human body’s point cloud is divided into hands, foots, head and torso. Then forward modeling method is used to model hands and foots, photo modeling method is used to model head and reverse modeling method is used to model torso. After that, hands, foots, head and torso are integrated together to get a static avatar. Next, virtual skeleton is bound to the avatar. Finally, a lifelike digital human body model is created by the mixed modeling method (MMM).

Findings

In allusion to the defect of the three-dimension original data of human body, this paper presented an MMM, with which we can get a realistic digital human body model with accurate body dimensions. The DHM can well meet the needs of fashion industry.

Practical implications

The DHM, which is got by the MMM, can be well applied in the field of virtual try on, virtual fashion design, virtual fashion show and so on.

Originality/value

The originality of the paper lies in the integration of forward modeling, reverse modeling and photo modeling to present a novel method of human body modeling.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

1 – 10 of 572