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Article
Publication date: 1 August 2011

Vinay Kumar Midha, A Mukhopadhyay and Ramanpreet Kaur

Owing to a high amount of stress, seam failure in workwear fabrics makes the fabric unsuitable although the fabric strength is high. It is therefore important to predict…

Abstract

Owing to a high amount of stress, seam failure in workwear fabrics makes the fabric unsuitable although the fabric strength is high. It is therefore important to predict the seam strength to ascertain the performance of the garments during use and determine the required thread strength and stitch density to match the required seam strength. In all of the earlier predictive equations, seam strength is predicted from thread strength and stitch density along with some multiplicative factors. During the sewing process, a substantial loss in needle thread strength occurs; therefore, the thread becomes weaker than expected after incorporation into the seam. In this paper, the effects of various machine and process parameters are studied on thread strength loss and seam strength. The seam strength is predicted from the loop strength after considering the loss in thread strength. It is observed that higher seam strengths are observed when stronger threads are used for sewing. Loss in thread strength has a significant influence on the seam strength. Seam strength can be predicted using stitch density and thread loop strength, by considering the loss in thread strength during the sewing process. A closer match between predicted and experimental seam strength is possible.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 15 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 March 1998

G. Sundaresan, K.R. Salhotra and P.K. Hari

The mechanism of strength reduction of sewing threads has been discussed in Part I of this paper. The effect of fabric tightness and certain thread properties like its…

Abstract

The mechanism of strength reduction of sewing threads has been discussed in Part I of this paper. The effect of fabric tightness and certain thread properties like its size, coefficient of yarn‐metal friction, twist direction, number of piles, type of fibre and fibre denier on strength reduction has been studied and found to influence the severity of strength reduction of the thread.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 10 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2016

Iwona Frydrych and Agnieszka Greszta

Seam efficiency plays an important role for obtaining a desired seam quality. Therefore, this issue is often referred in research papers. The purpose of this paper is to…

Abstract

Purpose

Seam efficiency plays an important role for obtaining a desired seam quality. Therefore, this issue is often referred in research papers. The purpose of this paper is to determine the seam strength and efficiency as well as examining, if and how such factors as: a kind of fabric, kind of thread, kind of seam and the stitch density influence the transverse seam strength and the seam efficiency.

Design/methodology/approach

For research four types of polyester/wool fabrics having different structural parameters and two types of polyester sewing threads were used. Three types of seam were made. The fabric samples were sewn using lockstitch with three different stitch densities. Obtained in this way seams were tested on the tensile machine. The influence of individual factors on the seam strength and its efficiency was assessed statistically using a multivariate variance analysis (ANOVA).

Findings

The findings of this study revealed that the independent variable – stitch density affect significantly of the seam strength as well as its efficiency. Seam strength and seam efficiency values increase with the increase stitch density. Moreover, the variance analysis showed that a kind of fabric also is a statistically significant factor for the seam efficiency and its strength. Furthermore, in the case of seam efficiency it is also important to the stitch direction. However, the study did not show an impact of kind of thread and kind of seam on dependent variables: the seam strength and its efficiency.

Research limitations/implications

Due to the fact that this paper focuses on the seams made only on wool/polyester fabrics with two the most popular weaves, involving only two sewing PES threads, the conclusions presented in this paper are valid only to this assortment and cannot be generalized.

Originality/value

So far, it has not been taken research on the effect of seams with the different number of sewn layers on the seam strength and efficiency. This issue has been taken in this work.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 17 August 2021

Md Vaseem Chavhan, M. Ramesh Naidu and Hayavadana Jamakhandi

This paper aims to propose the artificial neural network (ANN) and regression models for the estimation of the thread consumption at multilayered seam assembly stitched…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to propose the artificial neural network (ANN) and regression models for the estimation of the thread consumption at multilayered seam assembly stitched with lock stitch 301.

Design/methodology/approach

In the present study, the generalized regression and neural network models are developed by considering the fabric types: woven, nonwoven and multilayer combination thereof, with basic sewing parameters: sewing thread linear density, stitch density, needle count and fabric assembly thickness. The network with feed-forward backpropagation is considered to build the ANN, and the training function trainlm of MATLAB software is used to adjust weight and basic values according to the optimization of Levenberg Marquardt. The performance of networks measured in terms of the mean squared error and the layer output is set according to the sigmoid transfer function.

Findings

The proposed ANN and regression model are able to predict the thread consumption with more accuracy for multilayered seam assembly. The predictability of thread consumption from available geometrical models, regression models and industrial empirical techniques are compared with proposed linear regression, quadratic regression and neural network models. The proposed quadratic regression model showed a good correlation with practical thread consumption value and more accuracy in prediction with an overall 4.3% error, as compared to other techniques for given multilayer substrates. Further, the developed ANN network showed good accuracy in the prediction of thread consumption.

Originality/value

The estimation of thread consumed while stitching is the prerequisite of the garment industry for inventory management especially with the introduction of the costly high-performance sewing thread. In practice, different types of fabrics are stitched at multilayer combinations at different locations of the stitched product. The ANN and regression models are developed for multilayered seam assembly of woven and nonwoven fabric blend composition for better prediction of thread consumption.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 11 November 2013

Ezzatollah Haghighat, Seyed Mohammad Etrati and Saeed Shaikhzadeh Najar

This paper aims to predict the needle penetration force (NPF) in denim fabrics using the artificial neural network (ANN) and multiple linear regression (MLR) models based…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to predict the needle penetration force (NPF) in denim fabrics using the artificial neural network (ANN) and multiple linear regression (MLR) models based on the effects of various sewing parameters.

Design/methodology/approach

In order to design the ANN and MLR models, four parameters including fabric weight, number of fabric layers, weave pattern, and sewing needle size are taken into account as the input parameters and NPF as the output parameter. According to these parameters, 140 samples of data were resulted. Each sample was tested five times. From these 140 data (input-output data pairs), 112 were used for training the ANN and MLR models and 28 samples were used to test the performance of ANN and MLR. Also, the NPF was measured on the Instron tensile tester to simulate sewing process.

Findings

The results indicated that the NPF in denim fabrics can be well predicted in terms of sewing parameters by using ANN and MLR models, in which the ANN model exhibits greater performance than MLR (RANN=0.989> RMLR=0.901).

Research limitations/implications

The NPF measurement method is limited at low speed.

Originality/value

Using the ANN model for forecasting NPF in denim fabrics can help the garment manufactures to produce high-quality denim products and improve the sewing process through reducing seam damage. The NPF could be also measured in the cycle loading conditions similar to sewing machine process by using a special designed tools mounted on the Instron tensile tester.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 25 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 12 June 2009

Vinay Kumar Midha, V.K. Kothari, R. Chatopadhyay and A. Mukhopadhyay

In this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, needle and fabric, and the bobbin thread interaction on the changes in the tensile properties of the needle thread are…

Abstract

Purpose

In this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, needle and fabric, and the bobbin thread interaction on the changes in the tensile properties of the needle thread are to be investigated.

Design/methodology/approach

Tensile properties of the needle thread have been studied at four sewing stages, namely before being subjected to any loading, after dynamic loading, before bobbin thread interaction and after sewing.

Findings

It is observed that bobbin thread interaction plays a dominant role in the reduction of tensile properties except breaking elongation in cotton threads. Dynamic loading is mainly responsible for reduction in the breaking elongation of cotton threads. During sewing, there is an increase in initial modulus due to the dynamic loading, which is more in the case of cotton threads than polyester threads. However, the impact of dynamic loading on tenacity, breaking elongation and breaking energy is greater for coarser cotton thread. The contribution of bobbin thread interaction is more for fine threads as compared to coarse threads.

Practical implications

Since seam strength is dependent on the thread strength, a reduction in thread strength during sewing will lead to lower seam strength than expected. Therefore, in order to minimize the thread strength reduction, it is important to understand the contribution of different machine elements or processes during sewing. During high‐speed sewing, the dynamic and thermal loading are found to be the major causes of strength reduction of needle thread, which can go up to 30‐40 per cent. However, the extent of strength loss at different sewing stages is unknown.

Originality/value

The study will help in engineering sewing threads, designing of sewing machines and selection of process parameters for controlling loss of useful properties of sewing threads.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 21 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 December 1997

G. Sundaresan, P.K. Hari and K.R. Salhotra

Reports on investigations into the mechanism of sewing thread strength reduction. Results indicate that structural damage, namely, structural openness and pull‐out of…

Abstract

Reports on investigations into the mechanism of sewing thread strength reduction. Results indicate that structural damage, namely, structural openness and pull‐out of fibre ends from the surface are the major cause of strength reduction and that the fibre strength reduction is found to be only marginal compared to the thread strength reduction. Cotton threads exhibit higher strength loss owing to their poor abrasion resistance. Comparatively shorter fibres in cotton threads are also found to be responsible for the higher strength reduction.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 9 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 May 2018

Awadhesh Kumar Choudhary, Monica Puri Sikka and Payal Bansal

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the seam damages and causing defects. It also describes the various explanations of sewing defects in garment production and critically analyzes them for optimum selection of parameters and speeds for minimizing such faults. Hence, the knowledge of various factors which affect the sewing damages/defects will be helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to know influence of the parameters and control the quality of producing seam.

Design/methodology/approach

This section is not applicable for a review paper.

Findings

Sewing damages such as needle cut and other sewing damages/defects are studied mostly in woven fabric. There are very few studies conducted on knitted fabric sewing damages/defects. The sewing damage problems do not have single solution that is capable of removing these damages in fabric. All the determined and affecting parameters related to fiber, yarn, fabric construction, sewing thread and sewing machine must be examined to design appropriate remedial measurement related to machine design, fabric parameters and sewing thread. This could help in minimizing or eliminating the needle cut and other sewing damage problems.

Originality/value

It is an original review work and is helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to reduce the defects and be able to produce good quality seam.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 22 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 October 2021

Esra Zeynep Yıldız and Oktay Pamuk

The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion…

Abstract

Purpose

The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric into the garment and actual performance of the sewn fabric during wear of the garment. The adjustment of all sewing parameters is necessary to ensure quality. The purpose of this paper is to define the parameters that affect seam quality comprehensively.

Design/methodology/approach

This study primarily focuses on the studies dealing with the effect of various parameters on-seam quality in detail. A systematic literature review was conducted.

Findings

The interactions between parameters may lead to different results than the effect of a single parameter. In addition, changing some parameters may have a positive effect on one element of seam quality while having a negative effect on another. For this reason, it is very important to properly select the parameters according to the specific end use of the garment products and also to consider the interactions.

Originality/value

The knowledge of various factors that affect seam quality will be helpful for manufacturers to improve production performance and to be able to produce high-quality seam.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 25 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 December 2004

George K. Stylios

Examines the tenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects…

3063

Abstract

Examines the tenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 16 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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