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The purpose of this paper is to present the results of a study on heat transfer through a textile assembly consisting of fabric and air layers based on a theoretical model capable of dealing with conductive, convective and radioactive heat transfer.

Quantificational results were given out by the aid of finite element (FE) analysis software MSC MARC Mentat.

Significant findings through this paper include the change in heat flux against time and the transit temperature distribution at the cross‐section of the fabric assembly. The size of the air gaps has a significant influence on the heat transfer. The balance heat flux drops by 40 per cent when the air gap increases from 2 to 10 mm. The influence of the air gap tends to become smaller as the air gap is further increased. The number of fabric layers in the textile assembly has a noted influence, more so when the ambient temperature is lower. Comparisons between the theoretical and tested results show a good agreement.

This paper has established a new method for clothing comfort study by making use of a general purpose FE method software package.

In this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, needle and fabric, and the bobbin thread interaction on the changes in the tensile properties of the needle thread are to be investigated.

Tensile properties of the needle thread have been studied at four sewing stages, namely before being subjected to any loading, after dynamic loading, before bobbin thread interaction and after sewing.

It is observed that bobbin thread interaction plays a dominant role in the reduction of tensile properties except breaking elongation in cotton threads. Dynamic loading is mainly responsible for reduction in the breaking elongation of cotton threads. During sewing, there is an increase in initial modulus due to the dynamic loading, which is more in the case of cotton threads than polyester threads. However, the impact of dynamic loading on tenacity, breaking elongation and breaking energy is greater for coarser cotton thread. The contribution of bobbin thread interaction is more for fine threads as compared to coarse threads.

Since seam strength is dependent on the thread strength, a reduction in thread strength during sewing will lead to lower seam strength than expected. Therefore, in order to minimize the thread strength reduction, it is important to understand the contribution of different machine elements or processes during sewing. During high‐speed sewing, the dynamic and thermal loading are found to be the major causes of strength reduction of needle thread, which can go up to 30‐40 per cent. However, the extent of strength loss at different sewing stages is unknown.

The study will help in engineering sewing threads, designing of sewing machines and selection of process parameters for controlling loss of useful properties of sewing threads.

Development of a technique for weaving seamless three‐dimensional shapes directly on loom is an essential step in producing seamless woven garments. The purpose of this paper is to report a new approach to weaving seamless three‐dimensional shapes.

Spacing of warp and weft threads varies in shape region. Reeds with shaped reed wires are developed to change spacing of warp threads. Interlacement pattern of warp and weft threads is selected that assists in changing spacing of threads. The new approach of weaving three‐dimensional shapes in folded form is developed, that offers advantages over weaving shape in erect form.

The main findings were mathematical determination of shapes of reed wires to produce a three‐dimensional woven shape and weaving shape in folded form.

The paper demonstrates how three‐dimensional shapes are woven in folded form without the need of eliminating ends.

The purpose of this paper is to model tension seam pucker by finite‐element method.

A linear three dimensional finite‐element analysis in ABAQUS 6.8 is used to model pucker formation under sewing thread tension. Fabric is modeled as a continuous shell under a constant stitch length and sewing thread tensions is the applied force. Simulation's results are compared with the experimental pucker profiles, which are derived by a triangulate laser, in the term of a surface roughness index.

A consistent correlation between simulation and experimental results is observed which reveals the ability of the model to predict the seam pucker formation of fabrics.

This study modeled tension seam pucker based on fabric's mechanical properties and exerted forces by finite‐element method. According to this study, it is possible to predict fabric deformation after tension pucker occurrence.

The paper aims to establish and introduce seam pucker assessment indicators and their dependence upon the fabric characteristics and parameters of a sewing machine.

Seams pucker defect is specific to garment from lightweight fabrics, therefore the investigation was performed with this kind of fabrics. The structure and friction properties of fabrics were determined. The influence of rotational frequency of the main shaft (varied from 200 till 2,300 min⁻¹) and pressing force (from 25 till 85 N) on seam pucker was analysed. The seam pucker was evaluated by characteristic of sharpness calculated as ratio of pucker height and length.

Analysis of the obtained results allows stating that pucker sharpness increases with growing rotational frequency of the main shaft and decreases, increasing pressing force. On the basis of correlation analysis, the relationship between proposed new indicator of seam pucker evaluation and parameters of sewing machine was sought. The obtained result demonstrates that in most cases the relative pucker coefficient is dependent upon rotational frequency of the main shaft: increasing rotational frequency also leads to higher pucker coefficient. The linear relationship between the pucker coefficient and pressing force was not observed.

This investigation has practical implications in the clothing and other nearly related industries. In the paper, results involved with evaluation of seam pucker are presented.

The research showed that in order to define seam pucker more comprehensive, it is necessary to evaluate not only ratio of pucker height and length, but also the quantity of puckers as well as their propagation. Considering to this, the new criterion for seam pucker evaluation was proposed.

The purpose of this paper is to provide a theoretical model for considering ease numerically in the clothing pattern. Classifying the pattern as a geometric Cartesian coordinate system, this model proposes the need to quantify the partly coincident variables of ease, which will enable greater control over garment fit and function, using traditional or CAD/CAM methods.

The principles of pattern/garment dimensions are considered with support from analysis of literature and contributing factors to the variables of ease are categorised. These principles support a proposed theoretical model for considering pattern/garment dimensions, in the numeric format that they exist within the context of pattern construction.

Pattern construction occurs in a 2D Cartesian coordinate system, guided by body dimensions and ease. This can be modelled in the form of an algorithm relating to the placement of cardinal points defining the pattern outline. Recognition of the numerical nature of the pattern, suggests the need to quantify the coincident variables of ease, to achieve greater control over garment fit and function.

Few sources exist enabling the recognition of ease requirements in the pattern/garment and when guidance on ease is presented, there is little rationale as to how it has been established, or what contributes to its definition.

The paper shows how current methods of pattern construction can be modelled more effectively, recognising the geometric nature on which they are based. Modelling these relationships highlights where quantification can be provided, by existing knowledge or future research.

Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread ‐ with all possible ticket numbers, to examine the interaction of various fabric‐thread combinations. The sewing thread performance in terms of seam efficiency, pucker, slippage and needle cutting index was determined and the results were analysed in the light of the dimensional and mechanical properties of the fabric, thread and seam itself. Corespun threads were found to be most suitable from a seam efficiency point of view. However, other sewing parameters such as pucker, slippage and damage were adversely affected by sewing with corespun threads. Tensile properties of fabrics and threads were found to be the most important factors for sewability. Breaking strength and elongation of the fabric and sewing thread had an excellent correlation with seam efficiency. Cotton threads were found to be most suitable for sewing denim from a seam puckering point of view. On the other hand, polyester threads were more prone to develop seam pucker. Corespun thread was the greatest yarn damager compared to cotton and polyester threads. Fabric cover factor and sewing thread diameter were highly correlated with the needle cutting index.

The purpose of this paper is to explore the unique resources that Indian apparel exporting firms claim to have and the key resources that help provide competitive advantage to these firms.

A web-based content analysis of texts available on “About Us” or related sections of the Indian export firms was conducted. Text data were coded and interpreted.

Physical resources seemed to be one of the most critical resources for their competitive advantages for the study samples. The ability to provide affordable and competitive prices for their products and experience in exporting were recognized as important firm resource described by the study samples.

The study results supported the resource-based theory of the firm by showing additional key firm resources, such as ability to maintain domestic operations and to provide competitive prices that Indian apparel exporters claimed to have. Generalizability of the results is cautioned due to the content and analysis mode of the study data.

The results indicate that design capabilities, flexible production systems, and skilled labor are the key resources that provide Indian apparel industry the competitive advantage over its competitors. Therefore, Indian apparel exporters may want to continue to strengthen and emphasize these abilities to foreign buyers to complete in the global marketplace.

Given the importance of Indian apparel industry in the global market place, this study builds a knowledge base of the key resources possessed by the Indian apparel export firms.

Future automation and robotisation of apparel manufacturing processes will undoubtedly require that the machines and systems are selected based on the specific properties of the fabric being processed. Thus it is essential to develop and use objective evaluation methods for producing fabric compatibility data which are necessary for control of material handling, sewing and other processes involved in the conversion of fabrics into garments. The qualitative and quantitative analyses of relationships between properties of apparel fabrics and garment making‐up processes are focused on. Studies of mechanical properties of fabrics such as extension, shear and bending and their relationship to objective tailorability determinations constitute the main part of this research work

Deals with the qualitative and quantitative analysis of the tailorability of lightweight wool fabrics, as well as studies related to the interaction between the ease of tailorability and performance characteristics of wool fabrics. The role of mechanical/physical properties of fabric in the making‐up process as regards lightweight wool fabrics must be fully understood in order to achieve trouble‐free tailoring of garments made from such fabrics. Places emphasis on practical analysis of tailorability of difficult lightweight wool fabrics, providing subsequent solutions for the making‐up of such fabrics. In tailorability prediction analysis work, in addition to analysis of overall garment production, the further analysis of part processes such as sewing, feeding and handling have also been made using TEFO’s computerized methods of analysis. Results are analysed in terms of the relevant mechanical and physical properties of the test fabrics. Evaluates properties using both the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) and Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) sets of instruments.