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Article
Publication date: 1 November 2012

Chang Chang

The case study is carried out on a piece of gold brocade lined with handmade paper and used as mounting textile for historic Chinese paintings. This “light brown brocade with gold…

Abstract

The case study is carried out on a piece of gold brocade lined with handmade paper and used as mounting textile for historic Chinese paintings. This “light brown brocade with gold wefts and a lotus pattern” (specifically, a preserved sample of a precious ancient silk mounting textile taken from a piece of the deceased Master Chang Dai-Chien’s collection, and provided by Professor Sun Jia-Cin, Master Chang’s last disciple) is decorated with a gold lotus pattern against a background that is light brown in color. The ground warps and the gold patterns are interconnected in a structure of one warp and two wefts (light brown wefts and gold weft threads). The weave for the ground structure can be identified as a warp-faced 2/1 right twill with light brown warps and flossy light brown wefts. Flat strips of gold threads are applied as continuous supplementary wefts, and woven into the design in the mode of a 1/2 right twill weft backed weave. The ground weft is connected by warp to the gold weft in a 2:1 ratio called Ban-Yua. Based on an analysis by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and a combustion method for textile fiber analysis, both the ground warp and the weft are made of silk. In addition, according to the result given by energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS), the primary material of the gilded weft is gold. The paper lining on the back of the gold strip is made of natural fibers, according to the result from a scanning electron microscope (SEM) and an FTIR examination. Based on the shape of the lotus motif, it is estimated that this gold brocade dates back to the Ming Dynasty period.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 16 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 14 December 2023

Puspita Ayu Permatasari, Faruq Ibnul Haqi, Fitri Utami Ningrum and Triana Rosalina Dewi

From Batik cities to woven textile regions, Indonesia possesses several fashion destinations with remarkable textile heritage. The rise of fashion heritage destinations is…

Abstract

From Batik cities to woven textile regions, Indonesia possesses several fashion destinations with remarkable textile heritage. The rise of fashion heritage destinations is characterized by avid textile lovers and fashion followers that promote the regions. Several diversifications of tourism alternatives are analyzed, such as rural tourism with experiential textile-making workshops, urban destinations connected to contemporary fashion heritage, architectural works inspired from/to textile heritage, as well as fashion week cities that spark the interests of global fashion designers to visit the country. This chapter evaluates the current state, its rising challenges, and to what extent it may be promoted through digital technologies, based on local practitioners and the governmental perspectives.

Article
Publication date: 6 August 2019

Soniya Billore and Hans Hägerdal

The present paper aims to focus on the Indian influence in the transfer of, the business of and consumer markets for Indian products, specifically, textiles from producers in the…

Abstract

Purpose

The present paper aims to focus on the Indian influence in the transfer of, the business of and consumer markets for Indian products, specifically, textiles from producers in the South Asian subcontinent to the lands to the east of Bali. This aspect of the influence of Indian products has received some attention in a general but not been sufficiently elucidated with regard to eastern Indonesia.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper is based on archival research, as well as secondary data, derived from the published sources on early trade in South Asia and the Indian Ocean world. The study includes data about the Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie, a Dutch-owned company, and its textile trade history with India and the Indonesian islands with a special focus on Patola textiles. Narratives and accounts provide an understanding of the Patola, including business development and related elite and non-elite consumption.

Findings

The paper shows how imported Indian textiles became indigenised in important respects, as shown in legends and myths. A search in the colonial sources demonstrates the role of cloth in gift exchange, alliance brokering and economic network-building in eastern Indonesia, often with important political implications.

Research limitations/implications

The study combines previous research on material culture and textile traditions with archival data from the early colonial period, thus pointing at new ways to understand the socio-economic agency of local societies.

Originality/value

Only mapping the purchase and ownership of trading goods to understand consumption is not enough. One must also regard consumption, both as an expression of taste and desire and as a way to reify a community of people.

Details

Journal of Historical Research in Marketing, vol. 11 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1755-750X

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 17 May 2018

Sahar Ejeimi, Diane Sparks and Ruoh-Nan Yan

The purpose of this study was to collaboratively design eight professional dress ensembles incorporating Hejazi tribal embroidery and to evaluate Saudi female academics’…

174

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study was to collaboratively design eight professional dress ensembles incorporating Hejazi tribal embroidery and to evaluate Saudi female academics’ perceptions about those ensembles as appropriate for professional attire. The concept aimed to offer the potential for increased cultural identity by wearing modernized ethnic dress as everyday workplace attire that was relatively practical, affordable and expressive of Saudi cultural identity.

Design/methodology/approach

The goal in this research was to engage Saudi female academic professionals in designing clothing that integrated Saudi textile and costume traditions into contemporary styles appropriate for the academic work environment. Two models guided the research. The FEA model (Lamb and Kallal, 1992) was used to organize the questions in the survey questionnaire around an integration of culture with functional, aesthetic and expressive aspects of apparel. The second model guiding the research was an adaptation of the USAP participatory co-design model (Demirbilek and Demirkan, 2004). This model was used to engage study participants in the design process.

Findings

Qualitative results showed that participants were willing to wear the garments in this study, as the garments represented heritage, looked contemporary in terms of style lines, had comfort and interchangeable garment components, embroidery and printed fabric, fabric used in garment designs and color. Quantitative results showed that the ratings for the final garments were generally higher than the first sketches in the first phase. Results of the eight designs in the collection revealed that the aesthetic aspect was the most referenced by the participants among the FEA aspects. Results also indicated that silver waves design received the highest rating among the designs in terms of FEA aspects.

Originality/value

This research provides greater understanding of the ethnic culture of the Western region of Saudi Arabia for Western scholars. Previous research has indicated an interest in having garment manufacturing take place in Saudi Arabia (Turkustani, 1995). Findings from this research may lead to future study on the state of apparel production in Saudi Arabia and the potential feasibility of establishing a center for training in digital technology to support small business opportunities for Saudi women who are trained for work in the apparel industry.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 22 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 29 May 2009

T.L. Akinbogun and S.R. Ogunduyile

The purpose of this paper is to describe the role of women in rural communities of South‐Western Nigeria in entrepreneurial engagement through craft practice.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to describe the role of women in rural communities of South‐Western Nigeria in entrepreneurial engagement through craft practice.

Design/methodology/approach

Literatures were reviewed on crafts practice and appreciation in Nigeria. This enabled the contemplation of the place of craft practice as occupational engagement before, during and post colonial periods. The process of data gathering consists of field work, interviews, observation and photographing; through this, the technical production of mat and indigo dyed fabric were explored.

Findings

Women of rural communities in Western Nigeria have been actively been involved in crafts production to make ends meet in a male dominated economy. They form professional guilds to revive craft production/patronage, to network among members, and to seek help from the government and relevant organizations. The study found out that the potentials of the rural women can be fully developed if the method of making their products is given a facelift through partial mechanization.

Practical implications

An average Nigerian wants to be employed in white collar job and people are no longer interested in craft practice. The apprenticeship system of learning in the traditional system whereby skill is transferred from parents to their children is almost becoming a history. Thus, craft production is in the hand of few people among which the rural women are very spectacular.

Originality/value

This paper considers the women of rural communities in Southwestern Nigeria as a factor in the revilitalization of traditional crafts through occupational engagement in craft practice.

Details

Journal of Enterprising Communities: People and Places in the Global Economy, vol. 3 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1750-6204

Keywords

Content available
Book part
Publication date: 14 December 2023

Abstract

Details

Fashion and Tourism
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-80262-976-7

Article
Publication date: 14 October 2008

Helen Moore

Interest in the role of the New Zealand School Journal as an officially sanctioned publication for schools, has resulted in a number of past studies exploring its relationship to…

1071

Abstract

Interest in the role of the New Zealand School Journal as an officially sanctioned publication for schools, has resulted in a number of past studies exploring its relationship to official curriculum, educational policy and wider socio‐political developments, largely in relation to the written text. This article focuses on selected visual imagery, drawing on a masters study that examined discourses of art and identity through an interdisciplinary approach. Primary sources such as the School Journal publications themselves, material from the National Archives, and the stories of illustrators (gathered through a variety of communications including oral history), contributed a range of voices to the research. This article addresses some of the themes identified in relation to post World War 2 discourses of identity seeking to construct a sense of New Zealandness in educational publications. Acknowledging the role of imagery in educational publication itself offers another voice in constructing our educational history.

Details

History of Education Review, vol. 37 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0819-8691

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 16 May 2016

Terrence H. Witkowski

This paper aims to investigate the history and distribution of trade ceramics in Southeast Asia over a thousand-year period stretching from the ninth to the early nineteenth…

1113

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to investigate the history and distribution of trade ceramics in Southeast Asia over a thousand-year period stretching from the ninth to the early nineteenth century CE.

Design/methodology/approach

The study takes a material culture approach to the writing of marketing history by researching the ceramics trade from the starting point of artifacts and their social context. It draws from literatures on Chinese and Southeast Asian ceramics art history and archaeology. It also is informed by first-hand experience inspecting surviving artifacts in shops, talking to dealers and taking in museum displays.

Findings

After a brief historical overview of the ceramics trade in Southeast Asia, the research further explores topics in physical distribution (transportation routes, hubs and local marketplaces and ships, cargo and packing) and product assortments, adaptation and globalization of consumer culture.

Research limitations/implications

The art history and archaeological literatures provide a good overview of the ceramics trade and analysis of surviving material artifacts, but only limited information about distribution and consumption. Many questions remain unanswered.

Originality/value

This study contributes to international business and marketing history by documenting a thousand years of trade among China, mainland and insular Southeast Asia, and a long-standing cultural exchange facilitated by seaborne commerce. It also shares a marketing perspective with the fields of Southeast Asian art history and archaeology. Research in marketing history has neglected this region. To fully understand the development of marketing in the pre-industrial era, accounts from civilizations outside the West must be included.

Details

Journal of Historical Research in Marketing, vol. 8 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1755-750X

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 23 September 2020

Ghada H. Fetais and Remah Gharib

This paper aims to explore the possibilities of economic diversification in the State of Qatar through the regeneration of built heritage post the COVID-19 pandemic, promoting…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to explore the possibilities of economic diversification in the State of Qatar through the regeneration of built heritage post the COVID-19 pandemic, promoting sustainable tourism and creating a center for cultural heritage in Qatar, thereby enhancing the sense of identity both socially and physically among the nationals and residents. In light of the strategic goals of the Qatar National Vision 2030, which is to diversify Qatar’s economy and minimize its reliance on hydrocarbon industries, if these ambitious goals are to be achieved, there is a necessity to maintain the local cultural identity, demonstrated through architecture and urbanism.

Design/methodology/approach

This study is an exploratory research based on qualitative methods of data gathering and investigation. The local communities who used to live in the scattered old villages were approached with surveys. At the same time, semi-structured interviews were conducted with professionals in the field in Qatar and other individuals from the public, depending on their literacy levels.

Findings

This paper examines how to revive those villages and improve their current economic level. Finally, the study proposes some recommendations for these abandoned villages in an attempt to rejuvenate their built heritage and revitalize their socioeconomic status.

Originality/value

Economic diversification needs to be engendered through the services and products of Qatari society; this is possible by exploiting current resources such as the built heritage or historic sites in areas outside the emerging metropolitan cities. This study reveals the great potential of regenerating the old villages of the Gulf States by establishing nonprofit organizations and increasing the economic benefit of the abandoned historic structures.

Details

Open House International, vol. 45 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0168-2601

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 October 2018

Kusdi Raharjo

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the effect of the relationship between stakeholder demand, resources, knowledge and product uniqueness on green marketing and its…

2769

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the effect of the relationship between stakeholder demand, resources, knowledge and product uniqueness on green marketing and its implication on sustainability performance.

Design/methodology/approach

This study used a quantitative research approach that explains the phenomenon by collecting numerical data analyzed using mathematically based methods. The research location was Batik Lawean Center of Surakarta, which is the centers of Batik industry and heritage. These locations were chosen because Laweyan and Kedung Baruk have a vision as the center of Batik industry and environment-friendly heritage through sustainable development.

Findings

Stakeholder demand, resource, knowledge and the uniqueness of the product have a significant effect on the application of green management, and the green management has a significant effect on the sustainability performance. It means that the stakeholder demand, resources, knowledge and product uniqueness have a significant effect on green management, and green management simultaneously shows a significant effect on sustainability performance. The application of green management will also improve sustainability performance.

Originality/value

The originality of this study is on the testing of simultaneous relationships between the factors making up the application of green marketing, namely stakeholder demand, resources, knowledge and product uniqueness, as well as the impact of green marketing implementation on sustainability performance. This study focuses on the application of green management by involving the measurement of environmental performance and financial performance, as has been investigated by Karagiorgos (2010) and Earnhart and Lizal (2006). On the other hand, this study attempts to review the application of green management in the form of environmental performance as studied by Filbeck and Gorman (2004) and Sarah and Peter (2000), which reveal several determinants of environmental performance, as suggested by Mutamimah and Handoko (2011). However, this study focuses on the qualitative determinants that have been found by researchers (Raharjo, 2016) that the low or high level of green management application is determined by the demand of stakeholders, resources, knowledge, and product uniqueness considering the object of research is the Batik industry, which is certainly different from other industries, such as those that have been investigated by Karagiorgos (2010), Earnhart and Lizal (2006), Mutamimah and Handoko (2011), Filbeck and Gorman (2004), and Sarah and Peter (2000). This study also combines the measurement of financial performance and non-financial performance in the form of sustainability performance variables.

Details

Management of Environmental Quality: An International Journal, vol. 30 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1477-7835

Keywords

1 – 10 of 204