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Book part
Publication date: 15 November 2018

Kristin J. Wilson

The burgeoning practice of peer-to-peer breastmilk sharing in the United States conflicts with public health concerns about the safety of the milk. In-depth interviews…

Abstract

The burgeoning practice of peer-to-peer breastmilk sharing in the United States conflicts with public health concerns about the safety of the milk. In-depth interviews with 58 breastmilk sharers highlight the ways in which these respondents counter widespread risk narratives. These caregivers deploy existing social values such as self-reliance, good citizenship, and “crunchy,” or natural, mothering to validate their milk-sharing practices. However, because of stratified reproduction, in which society encourages White motherhood while it disparages motherhood among poor women and women of color, these discourses are more accessible to milk sharers who are White and from middle-class. Black and Latinx milk donors and recipients offer additional rationale for milk sharing that includes reclaiming their legacies as worthy mothers and elevating milk sharing to justice work. In rejecting and reframing risk, all of these milk sharers work toward flattening the good mother/bad mother binary.

Details

Marginalized Mothers, Mothering from the Margins
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-78756-400-8

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Article
Publication date: 4 December 2017

Viktorija Sakalyte, Tom Cassidy and Amy Holroyd

Because of advances in woollen woven textile manufacture, the occurrence of industrial textile mending has diminished. While the demand for the skill is still present in…

Abstract

Purpose

Because of advances in woollen woven textile manufacture, the occurrence of industrial textile mending has diminished. While the demand for the skill is still present in certain settings, the availability of learning resources is limited relating to this particular craft. The purpose of this paper is to design and produce an effective educational learning tool to teach mending skills.

Design/methodology/approach

To address the aims of this dissertation project, bricolage methodology and qualitative research methods have been used. Using the findings from primary and secondary research, the educational, instructional video was developed to document and display the mending craft practice in a format that would endure and be accessible to anybody who wished to learn. After determining that the ability to understand woven pattern structures was key in learning mending skill, the visual tool was developed using two-dimensional woven structure diagrams and animations to train pattern comprehension and recognition.

Findings

The results of educational video tool testing confirmed that using two-dimensional animated diagrams of woven structures was an effective method to teach pattern comprehension. Also, it was found that the trainee’s participation in the instructional video was effective in helping to teach other learners mending skills. The structure of the educational video made the learning more organised and comprehensible, as it assisted in the learning process through the combined media that reiterated the same information in different formats.

Originality/value

Design technology was applied to provide a comprehensible educational resource that could be used to learn and revitalise mending skills. The principles and methods applied in this resource could be adapted to teach different textile disciplines or other craft practices.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 21 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

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Article
Publication date: 12 September 2016

Manju Sugathan, Tom Cassidy and Bruce Carnie

The purpose of this paper is about understanding an existing situation in a South Indian village and developing a strategy to produce and market speciality hand knitting…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is about understanding an existing situation in a South Indian village and developing a strategy to produce and market speciality hand knitting yarn, involving the unpaid labour (women) in the handloom industry. An observation method (field study) is used to identify an appropriate method for the design and development of speciality yarns.

Design/methodology/approach

Participatory action research is a recursive process that identifies methods leading to the choice of appropriate technology (AT) for the production of speciality yarn. A field study observation method was carried out to identify an AT that is acceptable for the community considering their socio-cultural background of the society. Once the technology (AT) was identified to design the speciality yarn, the research then tests the quality and marketability of the yarn.

Findings

The method used for product design and quality testing can be adapted by researchers and designers to develop craft items that can build a platform to start a small-scale business. The research describes a model/framework that could be used/investigated by other bodies in the future.

Research limitations/implications

The limitation of AT and the approach taken for research cannot be clearly identified without testing the production method with the women in the village.

Originality/value

This research confirms that along with identifying a sustainable method of production for speciality yarn, it is very essential to ensure the quality of the product that can compete with other market-available hand knitting yarns.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 20 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

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Article
Publication date: 1 May 1998

Naiyue Zhou and Tushar K. Ghosh

Low‐stress mechanical properties of fabrics are very important in many applications as well as in manufacturing process control. Discusses the importance and potential…

Abstract

Low‐stress mechanical properties of fabrics are very important in many applications as well as in manufacturing process control. Discusses the importance and potential applications of an on‐line mechanical property measurement system. In addition, the working principles of existing off‐ line fabric bending testers have been critically reviewed. It is suggested that the principle of a future on‐line system to evaluate fabric bending behaviour should be based on the characterisation of fabric loop shapes.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 10 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 October 2000

F. Mete and D.W. Lloyd

Computational elastica theory is used to model a simple test for the bending properties of fabrics. This test, entitled the “CLOAK” test, was designed to offer practical…

Abstract

Computational elastica theory is used to model a simple test for the bending properties of fabrics. This test, entitled the “CLOAK” test, was designed to offer practical experimental advantages over the established cantilever bending, of bending length, test. Computational elastica theory offers a routine method for modelling fabrics in cantilever bending. In this case, the CLOAK test is simulated and shown to be equivalent to both the bending length test and to a related test method proposed in the 1960s.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 12 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Book part
Publication date: 9 October 2012

Helena Hansen and Samuel K. Roberts

Purpose – To compare the histories of two opioid medications that are pharmacologically similar but subject to contrasting regulations in their use in treatment of opiate…

Abstract

Purpose – To compare the histories of two opioid medications that are pharmacologically similar but subject to contrasting regulations in their use in treatment of opiate dependence in the United States – methadone and buprenorphine – in order to analyze the role of racial imagery and racial politics in the legalization and clinical promotion of their use.

Methodology/approach – Historical methods of archival analysis of published articles and unpublished governmental records were used in researching methadone. Ethnographic methods of participant observation and semistructured interviews were used in researching buprenorphine.

Findings – Contrasting uses of racial imagery played a major role in shaping the current regulatory differences between the two treatments. The association of methadone with black and Latino heroin users has contributed to its increased federal regulation, while the association of buprenorphine with white, middle class prescription opioid users enabled its use in deregulated private physicians’ offices.

Originality/value of paper – Advocates of biomedicalization of behaviors and conditions thought of as social or moral, such as addiction, argue that biomedicalization reduces the stigma of the condition and imply that, in turn, it also reduces the racial inequalities associated with the condition. This study of the biomedicalization of treatment for opioid dependence indicates that the very process of biomedicalization depended on heightened racial imagery associated with each treatment and ultimately intensified, rather than reduced, the stigma of addiction for black and Latino low-income patients.

Details

Critical Perspectives on Addiction
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-78052-930-1

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Article
Publication date: 1 May 1991

T. Cassidy, C. Cassidy, S. Cassie and M. Arkison

Gives a review of the various methods which have been developed to measure the stiffness of fabric and describes a new method. This new approach enables the testing of…

Abstract

Gives a review of the various methods which have been developed to measure the stiffness of fabric and describes a new method. This new approach enables the testing of knitted fabrics which are difficult to test using the cantilever system. The inter‐operative reproducibility of the new instrument is compared with that of the cantilever method and the drape meter. Also reports inter‐laboratory comparisons on woven fabric and on knitted fabric, the latter having been measured on a KES‐F system.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 3 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Abstract

Details

Applying Partial Least Squares in Tourism and Hospitality Research
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-78756-700-9

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Article
Publication date: 8 March 2021

Seolyoung Oh and Dongae Suh

This paper presents a method to fabricate a fitting-mannequin using 3D-scanning, modeling and printing technologies.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper presents a method to fabricate a fitting-mannequin using 3D-scanning, modeling and printing technologies.

Design/methodology/approach

Scan data were obtained from 12 subjects with body size in the average range, selected from 208 women aged 20–29. The 3D-scan data were modified by selecting cross-sections from the cloud data, symmetrizing body shapes and obtaining mean points of body shapes. Fifteen spline curves, generated by connecting the mean points on the X–Y plane, were used as sketches and loft features to create the 3D mannequin models. A lower-body fitting mannequin was printed with polylactic acid plastic using a fused deposition-modeling 3D printer.

Findings

The cross-section circumference discrepancies among the 3D-printed mannequins in each step were within 1%, demonstrating the applicability and reliability of the 3D technologies proposed for mass customization.

Originality/value

The proposed methodology demonstrates the value of using 3D-scanning data to manufacture fitting-mannequins via mass customization. The study demonstrates the possibility and practicality of using 3D techniques to produce commercially viable fitting mannequins for the fashion industry.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Book part
Publication date: 5 February 2019

Les Coleman

Abstract

Details

New Principles of Equity Investment
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-78973-063-0

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