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Presents the influence of seam length, normal stitching velocity of a sewing machine and a working method on stitching velocity of sewing. Results show that better stitching velocities of sewing are gained by longer length of seams and higher than normal stitching velocities of a sewing machine. Reveals the working method and type of feeding of material affect the achievement of higher stitching velocities.

Presents the possibility of determining increased numbers of processing parameters for garment sewing using numerical methods and computers. The determination of new parameters has been made possible by employing equipment designed to measure stitching speed and to store the data in a computer as a function of time. Mathematical operations of searching and calculating, and numerical methods of derivation or integration can be applied to the measured pairs of data concerning the stitching speed and time period. In this way, the values of new processing parameters can be obtained, or their function flows investigated.

This paper aims to propose the artificial neural network (ANN) and regression models for the estimation of the thread consumption at multilayered seam assembly stitched with lock stitch 301.

In the present study, the generalized regression and neural network models are developed by considering the fabric types: woven, nonwoven and multilayer combination thereof, with basic sewing parameters: sewing thread linear density, stitch density, needle count and fabric assembly thickness. The network with feed-forward backpropagation is considered to build the ANN, and the training function trainlm of MATLAB software is used to adjust weight and basic values according to the optimization of Levenberg Marquardt. The performance of networks measured in terms of the mean squared error and the layer output is set according to the sigmoid transfer function.

The proposed ANN and regression model are able to predict the thread consumption with more accuracy for multilayered seam assembly. The predictability of thread consumption from available geometrical models, regression models and industrial empirical techniques are compared with proposed linear regression, quadratic regression and neural network models. The proposed quadratic regression model showed a good correlation with practical thread consumption value and more accuracy in prediction with an overall 4.3% error, as compared to other techniques for given multilayer substrates. Further, the developed ANN network showed good accuracy in the prediction of thread consumption.

The estimation of thread consumed while stitching is the prerequisite of the garment industry for inventory management especially with the introduction of the costly high-performance sewing thread. In practice, different types of fabrics are stitched at multilayer combinations at different locations of the stitched product. The ANN and regression models are developed for multilayered seam assembly of woven and nonwoven fabric blend composition for better prediction of thread consumption.

This paper aims to develop a single regression model (instead of developing models separately for each thread type) to predict the sewing thread consumption for cotton and polyester staple spun threads.

A single regression model is developed for predicting sewing thread consumption for cotton and polyester threads. The polyester sewing threads have lower sewing thread consumption as compared to cotton threads because of their higher elongation behaviour. The model differentiates between the cotton and polyester sewing threads using their elongation values at peak levels of tensions experienced by the sewing threads during stitch tightening. By comparing the estimated thread consumption values with actual values, the effectiveness of model is evaluated with root mean square error and coefficient of determination (R²).

During the sewing process, by understanding the behaviour of different types of sewing threads, it is possible to develop a single regression model for all types of threads.

The sewing thread consumption can be easily calculated for cotton and polyester sewing threads using a single regression equation using the sewing assembly thickness, stitch density and elongation of thread at peak tension. The garment manufacturers need not depend on different charts for sewing thread consumption for stock management.

The sewing thread consumption is different for different types of threads, and garment manufacturers have to depend on different charts given by sewing thread manufacturers or use different equations for each type of threads. Using this single regression equation, sewing thread consumption for cotton and polyester sewing thread can be estimated accurately.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate if the fibers obtained from chicken feathers have a possibility to be used or not used in Winter outerwears as a filling material in terms of thermal insulation parameters.

In the study, thermal properties of the heat-resistant interlining samples produced from the chicken feathers fibers were analyzed in comparison with the samples produced from the industrial filling materials.

In the study, it was revealed that the use of chicken feathers fibers as filling material in Winter outerwears was possible.

The use of chicken feather fibers in Winter outerwears as a filling material will be an extremely low-cost alternative to pile flies of water birds which are sufficiently expensive filling materials.

A significant portion of the chicken feather, which is released as a by-product in the production of chicken meat, is destroyed as industrial waste by digging or burning. Some of this product is used in the production of such cheap products as poultry feed. In the case of the production of fibers from the chicken feather, the use of these fibers as a filler in Winter clothing along with environmental protection will allow the use of this product for the production of products of higher cost.

The use of feathers’ material as a filling material in Winter outerwears has been known since ancient times. Due to the rough structure and low elasticity of chicken feathers, chicken feathers are not the best raw material for this purpose. This study revealed that it is possible to use chicken feathers as a filling material in terms of heat protection. The study is original in this respect.

The research evaluated the feasibility of 3D dynamic fit utilizing female compression tops by comparatively analyzing the virtual and actual dynamic fit.

Six female participants were 3D body-scanned and photographed in compression tops in four types of athletic movements (pull-up, kettlebell swing, circle-crunch and sit-up). Fit measurements, waist cross-sectional areas, waist width, waist depth, numerical simulation of clothing pressure (kPa) and objective pressure measurements (kPa) were collected from 3D virtual animation, 3D fit scan data and actual photos with the four types of athletic motions. The data were comparatively investigated between virtual and actual dynamic fit.

The 3D-animated body was not reflected with human body deformation because only bone structure was changed while maintaining the constant forms of muscle and body surface in athletic movements. Due to this consistency of virtual dynamic fit, there were significant differences with the actual dynamic fit at the top length, shoulder width and waist cross-sectional areas. Also, the virtual dynamic pressure indicated significantly higher levels than the objective dynamic pressure while presenting no significant correlations at the front neckline, breast, lateral waist, upper back, back armhole and back waist.

This study is the first to verify multiple aspects of virtual dynamic fit using 3D digital technology. This study provided useful information about which aspects of the current virtual animation need to be improved to apply in the dynamic fit evaluation.

In the field of knitwear, dimensional stability is assumed as a critical problem that affects the quality and salability of a product. Although much work has been done in this area with a focus on the factors affecting fabric shrinkage, however, there is a lack of work on knitwears with respect to their dimensional stability. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the impact of stitching parameters and wash types on the dimensional properties of knitwear.

The crew-neck t-shirts were prepared by using pique knitted fabrics. Different sewing and finishing parameters were used that include stitch density, stitch type, stitching thread and wash type. The critical measurements of the selected garment are taken as output variables which are body width, sleeve length, body length and across shoulder. After laundering process, shrinkage percentage was calculated by using before-wash and after-wash measurements.

This study shows that the stitching parameters affect significantly on knitwear’s shrinkage. Thus, when patterns are being developed for the cutting of fabric, expected shrinkage, known as residual shrinkage, must be considered to avoid unexpected changes in garment shape.

This research will be useful for knitwear manufacturing industry.

The equipment for computerised measuring of electrical power and energy is presented, adapted to the needs of investigating processing parameters of garment sewing operations.

The method of measuring the energy necessary to run the sewing‐machine driving electrical motor is also presented, correlated to the stitching speed in joining a straight seam in a single, two, or three, segments. Electrical energy consumption is analysed as dependent on the stitching speed, varying the number of stitches in the seam.

The investigations described have shown the impact of the method of work applied and the effect of the changes in garment sewing operation in processing parameters on the level of electrical energy consumed by the sewing‐machine drive electrical motor. A new measuring method has been introduced in garment engineering, aimed at predicting electrical energy consumption in garment sewing operations, thus opening a completely new field of investigation in the area of garment technologies.

A method of calculating the energy processing parameters of sewing operations.

This paper attempts to review recent advances in wire bonding using insulated wire and new challenges in wire bonding for advanced microelectronics packaging.

Dozens of journal articles, conference articles and patents published or issued in 2004‐2007 are reviewed.

The advantages and problems/challenges related to wire bonding using insulated wire are briefly analysed, and several solutions to the problems and recent findings/developments related to wire bonding using insulated wire are discussed.

Because of page limitation of the paper, only brief review is conducted. Further reading is needed for more details.

This paper attempts to provide introduction to recent developments and the trends in wire bonding using insulated wire. With the references provided, readers may explore more deeply by reading the original articles and patent documents.

Sewing is the most widely used and preferred method for manufacturing clothing products for extreme weather conditions and other industrial insulation systems. Multiple layers of functional fabrics in combination with insulation materials are used to thermally insulate precious body heat from its surrounding cold environment. The sewing process fixes the insulation material between the fabric layers. During conventional sewing, the insulation material is compressed along the stitch line. With the compression of the insulation material, entrapped air is forced to leave the insulation material internal structure, and heat loss occurs along the entire length of the stitch line. It results in the deterioration of thermal properties of the end product along the stitch line.

The amount of air, which is a decisive factor for thermal properties of any insulation system, was investigated at the level of a unit stitch length of a lockstitch. Conventional microscopy methods are not suitable to study the compression along the stitch line. With the help of X-ray tomography, the three-dimensional data of a stitch was taken and studied to measure the volume of air. The samples were prepared with conventional lockstitch sewing and a newly developed innovative sewing method “Spacer Stitching.” The results are compared with each other in terms of the amount of air present in a unit stitch length.

Calculations based on X-ray tomography images of lockstitch and spacer stitch revealed that, in the case of lockstitch, a unit stitch has a 15% of its volume made up of material and 85% of its volume by air. In comparison, the spacer stitch with the same sewing and fabric parameters has a material volume of 4.6 % and an air volume of 95.4% in a single stitch.

The research can positively improve the thermal properties of sewn material made for insulating purposes of conventional clothing as well as of industrial insulations.

There is no literature available which investigates and calculates the amount of air and material present along with a stitch line.