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1 – 10 of 116Samridhi Garg, Vinay Kumar Midha and Monica Sikka
In experiments utilising sweat solution and distilled water, seamed ensembles performed less thermally efficiently than unseamed fabrics.
Abstract
Purpose
In experiments utilising sweat solution and distilled water, seamed ensembles performed less thermally efficiently than unseamed fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
Water may not accurately reflect perspiration when testing multi-layered clothes for thermal comfort in wet state. Most researchers used water or sodium chloride (NaCl) to measure wet state thermal comfort. However, human perspiration is an extremely complex mixture of aqueous chemicals, including minerals, salts, lipids, urea and lactic acid. This study compares the effects of simulated sweat solution to distilled water on the thermal behaviour of a multi-layered fabric assembly with different seam patterns.
Findings
Experiment results show that stitching decreases thermal resistance and thermal conductivity. Seam pattern of 10 cm diagonal spacing is more thermally resistant than 2.5 cm diagonal spacing. In comparison to that of simulated sweat, fabric that has been moistened with distilled water exhibits increased thermal conductivity. Hollow polyester wadding or micro polyester wadding as the intermediate layer exhibits greater thermal resistance than multi-layered construction with spacer fabric as middle layer.
Originality/value
This study considers human perspiration while designing protective clothing for wet thermal comfort.
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Jiwon Chung, Hyunbin Won, Hannah Lee, Soah Park, Hyewon Ahn, Suhyun Pyeon, Jeong Eun Yoon and Sumin Koo
The objective of this study was to develop wearable suit platforms with various anchoring structure designs with the intention of improving wearability and enhancing user…
Abstract
Purpose
The objective of this study was to develop wearable suit platforms with various anchoring structure designs with the intention of improving wearability and enhancing user satisfaction.
Design/methodology/approach
This study selected fabrics and materials for the suit platform through material performance tests. Two anchoring structure designs, 11-type and X-type are compared with regular clothing under control conditions. To evaluate the comfort level of the wearable suit platform, a satisfaction survey and electroencephalogram (EEG) measurements are conducted to triangulate the findings.
Findings
The 11-type exhibited higher values in comfort indicators such as α, θ, α/High-β and lower values in concentration or stress indicators such as β, ϒ, sensorimotor rhythm (SMR)+Mid-β/θ, and a spectral edge frequency of 95% compared to the X-type while walking. The 11-type offers greater comfort and satisfaction compared to the X-type when lifting based on the EEG measurements and the participants survey.
Originality/value
It is recommended to implement the 11-type when designing wearable suit platforms. These findings offer essential data on wearability, which can guide the development of soft wearable robots.
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Uzair Shah, Niall Hayes and Asfia Obaid
The study adopts an intersectional approach to identify the key dimension(s) that reproduce inequalities in women's subsistence entrepreneurship within urban-poor settings in the…
Abstract
Purpose
The study adopts an intersectional approach to identify the key dimension(s) that reproduce inequalities in women's subsistence entrepreneurship within urban-poor settings in the global south.
Design/methodology/approach
The in-depth case study is based on 44 semi-structured interviews and four focus-group discussions with women entrepreneurs based within urban-poor dwellings in the twin cities of Islamabad and Rawalpindi in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan.
Findings
The authors contribute to the literature by identifying how intersecting socio-class and socioeconomic inequalities, and patriarchal norms of izzat (meaning: honour, respect) and purdah (or veil), perpetuate disadvantage for women entrepreneurs producing and/or selling business goods and services.
Originality/value
The findings challenge the view of entrepreneurship as a meritocratic and neutral activity for social emancipation. The authors argue that multiple social hierarchies and inequalities operate simultaneously, but how these are understood, exercised and reproduce disadvantage for women entrepreneurs, depends on their social class. The authors propose a triple bind of domestic, market and societal inequalities as a heuristic framework for understanding intersecting inequalities, patriarchy and subsistence entrepreneurship in Pakistan, specifically the global south.
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Achuthy Kottangal and Deepika Purohit
This study aims to analyze how conventional Bedouin weaving techniques have changed through the history of Israel, offering knowledge on the craft’s cultural relevance and…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to analyze how conventional Bedouin weaving techniques have changed through the history of Israel, offering knowledge on the craft’s cultural relevance and historical development among the Bedouin people and how their weaving and embroidery differ based on the three main geographic characteristics. It tries to comprehend the causes of the transition from organic to synthetic materials and the part played by the Lakiya Negev Bedouin Weaving women’s cooperative in maintaining this legacy.
Design/methodology/approach
The main goal of this study is to trace the emergence of Bedouin weaving traditions in the Negev Desert using a qualitative research methodology that combines historical analysis and ethnographic investigation. A thorough grasp of the subject’s significance is provided through the data gathering, which consists of interviews, archival research and field observations.
Findings
Through the years, Bedouin weaving techniques have significantly shifted away from using traditional organic materials in favor of synthetic replacements, according to the research. It emphasizes the crucial part played by the Lakiya Negev Bedouin Weaving women’s organization in safeguarding this traditional legacy and giving Bedouin women access to economic prospects.
Research limitations/implications
The limitation of the study includes its emphasis on the Negev region and the Israeli Bedouin community, which may not accurately reflect all Bedouin weaving techniques. Greater regional settings may be explored in future studies.
Practical implications
The investigation emphasizes the value of investing in initiatives for cultural preservation and the empowerment of underprivileged groups through economic possibilities.
Social implications
By preserving ancient weaving techniques, this research enables Bedouin women in the Negev Desert to maintain their cultural identity and socioeconomic well-being.
Originality/value
By emphasizing the socio-cultural dimensions and the organization’s role in preserving traditional craftsmanship in a changing socio-economic environment, this research presents a unique investigation of the evolution of Bedouin weaving techniques in Israel.
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Murat Demir and Gonca Balci Kilic
The purpose of this study is to explore the effect of stitch type and stitch direction on the dynamic drape behavior of the woven fabric.
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to explore the effect of stitch type and stitch direction on the dynamic drape behavior of the woven fabric.
Design/methodology/approach
In this paper, the effectiveness of stitch type and stitch directions on dynamic drape behaviors were investigated. Fabric parts were sewn together with two types of the stitch (lockstitch and overlock stitch) on three different stitch directions (warp, weft and bias (45°)). The static drape coefficients (SDC) of unsewn and sewn fabrics were measured according to the image process method. Dynamic drape coefficients (DDC) of fabrics were also measured using the same method at six different (25, 50, 75, 100, 125, 150 rpms) rotation speeds. Additionally, bending length and bending rigidity were measured using the Cantilever test method.
Findings
Experimental results showed that stitch type and stitch directions are effective on the dynamic drape behaviors of the fabric. Overlock stitch resulted in greater DDC than the lock stitch. For both of the stitch type, DDC for the stitch on the warp direction are greater than the stitch on the weft and bias direction for all speeds. In addition, bending length, hence the bending rigidity, are greater for overlock stitch type and always weft direction resulted in greater than the warp and bias direction.
Originality/value
Fabric drape is vital for garment appearance and is gaining popularity with the advancement of virtual technology, enabling virtual visualization of garments. While previous studies have predominantly examined either the static or dynamic drape behavior of individual fabric panels, or solely focused on the static drape behavior of sewn fabrics, this study acknowledges the significance of incorporating the influence of stitch type and direction on dynamic drape behaviors. Considering that fabrics are sewn together to create garments and that DDC provides a more accurate representation of real-time fabric behavior compared to SDC, this research makes a valuable contribution to the existing literature by investigating the impact of stitch type and direction specifically on DDC.
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Yifan Guo, Yanling Guo, Jian Li, Yangwei Wang, Deyu Meng, Haoyu Zhang and Jiaming Dai
Selective laser sintering (SLS) is an essential technology in the field of additive manufacturing. However, SLS technology is limited by the traditional point-laser sintering…
Abstract
Purpose
Selective laser sintering (SLS) is an essential technology in the field of additive manufacturing. However, SLS technology is limited by the traditional point-laser sintering method and has reached the bottleneck of efficiency improvement. This study aims to develop an image-shaped laser sintering (ISLS) system based on a digital micromirror device (DMD) to address this problem. The ISLS system uses an image-shaped laser light source with a size of 16 mm × 25.6 mm instead of the traditional SLS point-laser light source.
Design/methodology/approach
The ISLS system achieves large-area image-shaped sintering of polymer powder materials by moving the laser light source continuously in the x-direction and updating the sintering pattern synchronously, as well as by overlapping the splicing of adjacent sintering areas in the y-direction. A low-cost composite powder suitable for the ISLS system was prepared using polyether sulfone (PES), pinewood and carbon black (CB) powders as raw materials. Large-sized samples were fabricated using composite powder, and the microstructure, dimensional accuracy, geometric deviation, density, mechanical properties and feasible feature sizes were evaluated.
Findings
The experimental results demonstrate that the ISLS system is feasible and can print large-sized parts with good dimensional accuracy, acceptable geometric deviations, specific small-scale features and certain density and mechanical properties.
Originality/value
This study has achieved the transition from traditional point sintering mode to image-shaped surface sintering mode. It has provided a new approach to enhance the system performance of traditional SLS.
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Yu Huang, Xiaofen Ji, Lina Zhai and Francisca Margarita Ocran
Breast cancer has become the largest cancer in the world today. Health problems for women with breast cancer need to be addressed urgently. This study aims to select the best…
Abstract
Purpose
Breast cancer has become the largest cancer in the world today. Health problems for women with breast cancer need to be addressed urgently. This study aims to select the best method for preparing temperature-sensitive sports underwear, and to verify the feasibility of using K-type thermocouple threads in underwear fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
In the experiments, two samples were designed for temperature-sensitive performance tests and the effects produced by different outer layer structures were investigated. In the second step, K-type thermocouple wires were integrated into sports underwear. The comfort and feasibility of the temperature-sensitive underwear were investigated.
Findings
It was finally verified to obtain the best comfort and temperature-sensing performance of K-type thermocouple filaments integrated into sports underwear with plain stitching.
Originality/value
The underwear has a certain prospect for the application of smart apparel based on breast cancer health monitoring, which is of some significance for monitoring smart apparel.
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Reetika Dadheech and Dhiraj Sharma
Purpose: Preserving a country’s culture is crucial for its sustainability. Handicraft is a key draw for tourism destinations; it protects any civilisation’s indigenous knowledge…
Abstract
Purpose: Preserving a country’s culture is crucial for its sustainability. Handicraft is a key draw for tourism destinations; it protects any civilisation’s indigenous knowledge and culture by managing the historical, economic, and ecological ecosystems and perfectly aligns with sustainable development. It has a significant role in creating employment, especially in rural regions and is an essential contributor to the export economy, mainly in developing nations. The study focuses on the skills required and existing gaps in the handicraft industry, its development and prospects by considering women and their role in preserving and embodying the traditional art of making handicrafts.
Approach: A framework has been developed for mapping and analysing the skills required in the handicraft sector using econometric modelling; an enormous number of skills have been crowdsourced from the respondents, and machine learning techniques have been used.
Findings: The findings of the study revealed that employment in this area is dependent not only on general or specialised skills but also on complex matrix skills ranging from punctuality to working in unclean and unsafe environments, along with a set of personal qualities, such as taking initiatives and specific skills, for example polishing and colour coding.
Implications: The skills mapping technique utilised in this study is applicable globally, particularly for women indulged in casual work in developing nations’ handicrafts industry. The sustainable development goals, tourism, and handicrafts are all interconnected. The research includes understanding skills mapping, which provides insights into efficient job matching by incorporating preferences and studying the demand side of casual working by women in the handicraft sector from a skills perspective.
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A lack of sufficient gainful employment opportunities in developing countries means that those at the bottom of the income ladder resort to self-employment for survival. While…
Abstract
Purpose
A lack of sufficient gainful employment opportunities in developing countries means that those at the bottom of the income ladder resort to self-employment for survival. While self-employment equalises inequality by providing earning opportunities to such individuals due to the ease of entry, it also creates a competitive environment among the self-employed, consequently widening inequality. In light of this, the study aims to determine the optimal level at which self-employment narrows inequality.
Design/methodology/approach
Five-yearly average data from 72 developing countries covering 2000–2019 is used. Inequality measures include Gini, and self-employment includes total, male and female participation levels. The empirical analysis is based on the dynamic two-step system Generalized Method of Moments (GMM) estimation approach, two-stage instrumental variables (2 SLS IV) approach and Sasabuchi (1980) and Lind and Mehlum (2010) test. Several robustness checks are used to validate the findings.
Findings
Prima facie, the study's findings suggest that self-employment equalises inequality in developing countries. The income-equalising effect can be seen, however, when the total, male and female self-employment levels are below the optimal of 54.22% of total employment, 52.50% of male employment and 54.19% of female employment, respectively. Inequality widens when self-employment exceeds these optimal levels. Further, the income-narrowing effect of self-employment is larger than its income-widening effect. When self-employment is below its optimal level, it reduces inequality 80 times more effectively than when it widens above the optimal levels. The corresponding figures for male and female self-employment are 90 and 52, respectively. Second, the income-equalising effects of self-employment are gender-specific.
Practical implications
Developing countries striving to achieve SDG 10 should limit self-employment to the above-mentioned levels. To this end, an inclusive approach to reducing inequality requires these countries to use selective and targeted policy interventions to create gainful employment opportunities for those above the identified optimal levels and eventually assist them in utilising these opportunities.
Originality/value
To the best of the author’s knowledge, this is the first study to determine the optimal levels at which self-employment equalises income in developing countries. As such, it makes novel contributions to both labour and development economics.
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S. Raja Balasaraswathi and Jonalee D. Bajpai
Ultrasonic welding is an emerging apparel manufacturing technique. However, the applications are widely explored in the field of technical textiles, with less exploration in the…
Abstract
Purpose
Ultrasonic welding is an emerging apparel manufacturing technique. However, the applications are widely explored in the field of technical textiles, with less exploration in the apparel endues. The purpose of this study is to explore the application of ultrasonic welding in apparel by analyzing the impacts of different parameters.
Design/methodology/approach
This study analyzed the influence of ultrasonic welding parameters, including pressure, welding speed and ultrasonic power on the seam performances (seam strength, seam bursting strength, seam thickness and seam stiffness). The parameters are optimized using Box–Behnken experimental design to achieve better seam performances.
Findings
The properties of ultrasonic seams are influenced by welding and fabric properties. Ultrasonically welded seams showed better performances in the case of comfort properties of seams, whereas the functional properties are lesser compared to conventional seams.
Originality/value
The findings of the research clearly outline the level of influence of different parameters on the performance of the ultrasonically welded seams in knitted fabrics, which can greatly help in applying ultrasonic welding manufacturing methods in apparel manufacturing.
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