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Bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics depend on fibre, yarn and fabric-related parameters. However, there is lack of research efforts to understand how bending and shear rigidities change in woven fabrics having similar areal density. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the change in bending and shear rigidities in plain woven fabrics having similar areal density.

A total of 18 fabrics were woven (9 each for 100 per cent cotton and 100 per cent polyester) keeping the areal density same. Yarns of 20, 30 and 40 Ne were used in warp and weft wise directions and fabric sett was adjusted to attain the desired areal density.

When warp yarns become finer, keeping weft yarns same, bending rigidity remains unchanged but shear rigidity increases in warp wise direction. When weft yarns are made finer, keeping the warp yarns same, both the bending and shear rigidities of fabric increase in warp wise direction. Similar results for fabric bending and shear rigidities were obtained in transpose direction. There is a strong association between fabric shear rigidity and number of interlacement points per unit area of fabric even when fabric areal density is same.

Very limited research has been reported on the low-stress mechanical properties of woven fabrics having similar areal density. A novel attempt has been made in this research work to investigate the bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics having similar areal density. Besides, it has been shown that it is possible to design a set of woven fabrics having similar bending rigidity but different shear rigidity.

In Parts 1 and 2 of this series of papers, we have investigated the important mechanical and physical properties of fabrics which determine their performance during tailoring especially fabric tensile, shear, bending and dimensional properties. The conditions for structural balance of seams has been quantitatively evaluated as well as the relationship between the degree of fabric overfeed during sewing and the natural curvature or curling couple of the seamed fabric assembly. Fabric forming and draping behaviour is strongly dependent on fabric bending and the fabric membrane properties of extension, longitudinal compression and shearing in the fabric plane. In this paper, the influence of these basic fabric mechanical properties on subjectively assessed garment appearance is also studied. These mechanical properties can be used to distinguish between fabrics which make up into suits of good and poor appearance. The investigation of the bending properties of overfed fabrics has established an empirical relationship between the level of fabric overfeed and the natural curvature of the overfed seamed fabric composite for three different fabric configurations.

This paper aims to propose an efficient method to conduct the preliminary analyses of medium or high-rise wall-frame structural systems with vertically varying properties. To this end, a finite element is formulated to take the shear deformation of the shear wall and the constrained moment of the link beam.

The differential equation of the structure is derived from the total potential energy. Its homogenous solutions are functions of initial parameters (deflections and inner forces). To solve the structure with vertically non-uniform properties, the authors first use the classical Timoshenko beam element and then heuristically propose a finite element that uses the initial parameter solutions as shape functions and is easier to implement. A post-processing method to compute the shear force in the frame and shear wall is developed. Modal analysis using the consistent mass matrix is also incorporated. Numerical examples demonstrate the accuracy and mesh independency of the proposed element.

The shear deformation of the shear wall and the constrained moment of the link beam significantly influence the static response of the structure. Taking into account the shear deformation can eliminate the misleading result of zero-base shear force of the frame and give much better predictions of the system natural frequencies.

The proposed method achieves higher accuracy than the classical approach most often used. The finite element formulation derived from transformations of the initial parameter solutions is simple and has superior numerical performance. The post-processing method allows for a fast determination of the shear force distributions in the shear wall and frame.

This study aims to research the development trend, research status, research results and existing problems of the steel–concrete composite joint of railway long-span hybrid girder cable-stayed bridge.

Based on the investigation and analysis of the development history, structure form, structural parameters, stress characteristics, shear connector stress state, force transmission mechanism, and fatigue performance, aiming at the steel–concrete composite joint of railway long-span hybrid girder cable-stayed bridge, the development trend, research status, research results and existing problems are expounded.

The shear-compression composite joint has become the main form in practice, featuring shortened length and simplified structure. The length of composite joints between 1.5 and 3.0 m has no significant effect on the stress and force transmission laws of the main girder. The reasonable thickness of the bearing plate is 40–70 mm. The calculation theory and simplified calculation formula of the overall bearing capacity, the nonuniformity and distribution laws of the shear connector, the force transferring ratio of steel and concrete components, the fatigue failure mechanism and structural parameters effects are the focus of the research study.

This study puts forward some suggestions and prospects for the structural design and theoretical research of the steel–concrete composite joint of railway long-span hybrid girder cable-stayed bridge.

THE increasing operational speeds of the modern aeroplane have involved the designer of the aircraft structure in problems which necessitate the experimental determination or calculation, not only of the strength, but also of the stiffnesses of the various major components of the airframe. It has become very apparent that stiffness rather than strength is the determining factor in the design of many aeroplane components.

The aim of this paper was to explore the use of objective fabric parameters in 3D virtual garment simulation.

Two methods (fabric assurance by simple testing and Browzwear's fabric testing kit) of obtaining objective fabric measurements and the derived parameters for virtual garment simulation were studied. Three parameters (extension, shear and bend) were investigated to establish whether the selected virtual software derived comparable parameters from the objective fabric measurements.

It was found that the conversion from the objective fabric measurement data to the required parameters for virtual simulation varied significantly. Manual analysis of the objective measurements showed the two test methods to be comparable for extension and shear parameters; However, some adjustment to the test method was required. The third parameter to be investigated (bending rigidity) concluded that the test methods and results obtained from the two different apparatus were not comparable and recommended further experimentation using a different testing technique.

Future research should be conducted on a larger variety of fabrics ensuring comparable loads are used in the testing of the extensibility parameters. An expansion of this preliminary study should give more conclusive evidence of the trends observed.

Objective measurement of extension, shear and bend properties was investigated in relation to the derived parameters for a selected virtual simulation package. An understanding of such parameters will aid the general industry in adapting 3D virtual garment simulation as part of the standard product development process, resulting in a significantly shorter product development cycle.

This paper investigates the relationships between fabric formability (a fundamental measure of fabric tailorability), bias extension and shear resistance. The experimental investigation has been performed on a range of thirty-one (fifteen pure wool, twelve wooVpolyester blends, one wooVrayon blend and three pure linen) suiting and trousering materials varying in mass per unit area from 125 to 258 g/m². Low stress mechanical properties measurements of fabric bending, shear and tensile deformations were obtained using the KES (Kawabata Evaluation System) testers. Furthermore, the 45-degree bias extension behaviour of these fabrics was measured using an Instron extensometer. Following Spivak and Treloar's analysis [12], the bias load-extension and recovery curves were analysed to obtain equivalent shear stress/strain hysteresis curves. The two measures of shear rigidity, one obtained from the KES shear hysteresis curves and the other calculated from the bias extension tests, have been compared for the series of 31 fabrics. Relationships between fabric formability (defined as the product of tensile extensibility under low load and the bending rigidity) and its shear resistance are analysed. In addition, the work also covers the investigation on the relationships between fabric shear properties and formability in bias direction.

This paper investigates the relationships between fabric formability (a fundamental measure of fabric tailorability), bias extension and shear resistance. The experimental investigation has been performed on a range of thirty-one (fifteen pure wool, twelve wool/polyester blends, one wool/rayon blend and three pure linen) suiting and trousering materials varying in mass per unit area from 125 to 258 g/m². Low stress mechanical properties measurements of fabric bending, shear and tensile deformations were obtained using the KES (Kawabata Evaluation System) testers. Furthermore, the 45-degree bias extension behaviour of these fabrics was measured using an Instron extensometer. Following Spivak and Treloar's analysis [12], the bias load-extension and recovery curves were analysed to obtain equivalent shear stress/strain hysteresis curves. The two measures of shear rigidity, one obtained from the KES shear hysteresis curves and the other calculated from the bias extension tests, have been compared for the series of 31 fabrics. Relationships between fabric formability (defined as the product of tensile extensibility under low load and the bending rigidity) and its shear resistance are analysed. In addition, the work also covers the investigation on the relationships between fabric shear properties and formability in bias direction.

The purpose of this paper is to analyse dynamic drape behaviours of 100% wool woven suiting fabrics considering real-time usage.

Dynamic drape coefficients of 100% wool woven fabrics were measured at different rotation speeds (25, 75, 125 and 175 rpm) with a commercially used fabric drape tester which works on image processing principle. Average daily walking speed of male and female volunteers was determined and the closest rotation speed was selected to calculate dynamic drape coefficient at walking (DDCw). Besides, bending rigidity and shear deformation properties, which are known to be related to the static drape behaviours of the fabrics, were also measured and the relationships between these parameters and DDCw were examined.

As a result of the experimental study, it was found that dynamic drape coefficients become greater, which means the fabrics take flatter position, with the increase of the rotation speed. In addition, it was also seen that parameters known to be related to static drape behaviours such as unit weight and bending stiffness have less effect on the dynamic drapes of fabrics. For the estimation of dynamic drape behaviour of fabrics, parameters such as static perimeter, dynamic perimeter, etc. are found more significant.

To date, although studies about dynamic drape behaviours of the fabrics claimed that dynamic drape gives more realistic results for in wearer experience, few of them focused on the rotation speed of dynamic drape tester for real-time usage. As dynamic drape behaviours of fabrics may differ for different rotation speed, determining appropriate speed in accordance with real-time usage gives more realistic results.

Garment is presumably the only product where, in the tailoring process, a two‐dimensional fabric is converted into a three‐dimensional shape without indirect physical remodelling of the material. Such a remodelling is directly associated with the physical behaviour of fabric structure, which can be treated as a very complex system owing to its constructional properties. Fabrics are non‐homogeneous and anisotropic materials. Very small stresses on textile materials cause extremely large strains, so that the deformations occurring are highly non‐linear. Non‐linear properties of textile materials and thus, connected deformations at low stresses are closely related to the elastic potential and influence fabric draping and fitting of the garment manufactured. For this purpose, the relationship between fabric elastic potential, as an important property under lower tensile load, and garment appearance quality, will be investigated. The investigation is subdivided into two parts. The first part presents the study of relationship between the elastic potential and particular mechanical properties of fabrics, whereas the second part of the investigation is concerned with studying the influence of fabric elastic potential on the drapeability, respectively, appearance quality of the garment manufactured.