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Article
Publication date: 18 June 2020

Amira Mohamed Eladly, Mohamed Gaber Abou-Ali, Aida Mohamed Sheta and Sherwet Hussein EL-Ghlomy

The apparel industry is a labor-intensive industry, which depends mainly on the performance of the worker. The purpose of this study is to present an ergonomic redesign of…

Abstract

Purpose

The apparel industry is a labor-intensive industry, which depends mainly on the performance of the worker. The purpose of this study is to present an ergonomic redesign of the sewing machine workstation, with different sewing table heights and inclination angles, based on the operator’s anthropometric data.

Design/methodology/approach

A flexible ergonomic sewing table has been designed, four main workstation-setting factors were studied; sewing desk inclination angles – X_1, height – X_2, sewing machine type – X_3 and operator’s body mass index (BMI) – X_4, with three levels for each factor, except sewing machine type, which only has two levels. The study was undertaken to specify the limitations and advantages of each combination tested. Different measurement techniques were used; subjective information, production rates – P, working postures (head, neck and trunk inclination angles in the kinematic stage) were measured.

Findings

Sewing operators’ sitting posture angles in the kinematic stage were affected more or less by their anthropometric measurements and the type of sewing machine. These two factors should be taken into consideration when ergonomically redesigning the sewing machine workstation.

Practical implications

A new ergonomically redesigned sewing machine table can be incorporated into garment factories, taking into consideration the BMI of the operators to improve their productivity and reduce musculoskeletal disorder complaints due to incorrect operators’ posture.

Originality/value

An important correlation was found between the sewing operator’s anthropometric body measurement – BMI and the type of sewing machine (with significant R^2 = 0.8385 and 0.9764 with both the head and neck inclination angles O_H, O_N, respectively).

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 24 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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Article
Publication date: 1 May 1997

B.K. Behera, S. Chand, T.G. Singh and P. Rathee

Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread …

Abstract

Denim fabrics of various weight ranges were sewn with three different compositions of sewing threads ‐ 100 per cent cotton, 100 per cent polyester and corespun thread ‐ with all possible ticket numbers, to examine the interaction of various fabric‐thread combinations. The sewing thread performance in terms of seam efficiency, pucker, slippage and needle cutting index was determined and the results were analysed in the light of the dimensional and mechanical properties of the fabric, thread and seam itself. Corespun threads were found to be most suitable from a seam efficiency point of view. However, other sewing parameters such as pucker, slippage and damage were adversely affected by sewing with corespun threads. Tensile properties of fabrics and threads were found to be the most important factors for sewability. Breaking strength and elongation of the fabric and sewing thread had an excellent correlation with seam efficiency. Cotton threads were found to be most suitable for sewing denim from a seam puckering point of view. On the other hand, polyester threads were more prone to develop seam pucker. Corespun thread was the greatest yarn damager compared to cotton and polyester threads. Fabric cover factor and sewing thread diameter were highly correlated with the needle cutting index.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 9 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 May 1995

Zdenka Bezjak and Blaz Knez

Presents some factors that influence the design of workplace and worker loading in the process of sewing garments. Researches both existent and suggested work methods in…

Abstract

Presents some factors that influence the design of workplace and worker loading in the process of sewing garments. Researches both existent and suggested work methods in workplace design and worker’s loading, with regard to sewing men’s shirts. The use of the suggested working method enables minimization of measured working time of the analysed technological operation of 21.77 per cent. The estimation, by OVACO working postures analysing system, the OWAS method shows that worker’s loading for a newly designed workplace compared to the suggested working method brings, in principle, advantages for the workers.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 7 no. 2/3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 March 1994

F.B.N. Ferreira, S.C. Harlock and P. Grosberg

A study of thread tensions on a lockstitch sewing machine was made, measuring simultaneously both the needle and bobbin thread tensions. Experiments were carried out under…

Abstract

A study of thread tensions on a lockstitch sewing machine was made, measuring simultaneously both the needle and bobbin thread tensions. Experiments were carried out under specified sewing conditions, whereby needle and bobbin thread tensioner adjustment, sewing speed, number of plies, fabric quality and sewing thread quality were varied in order to investigate the effect of these factors on the needle and bobbin thread tensions. The patterns of the thread tension traces obtained were analysed as well as the effect of these factors on the peak tensions detected on both thread tension traces. Four significant peak tensions on the needle thread tension trace and two significant peak tensions on the bobbin thread tension trace were detected, during a stitch cycle. It was found that no significant variations occurred as far as the timing and shape of the peak tensions were concerned. However, variations were detected in the peak tensions according to the sewing conditions, as expected. From the analysis of the data obtained, multiple regression equations were derived to predict, with a good degree of accuracy, the peak tensions generated, according to the sewing conditions.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 6 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 March 1998

G. Sundaresan, K.R. Salhotra and P.K. Hari

The mechanism of strength reduction of sewing threads has been discussed in Part I of this paper. The effect of fabric tightness and certain thread properties like its…

Abstract

The mechanism of strength reduction of sewing threads has been discussed in Part I of this paper. The effect of fabric tightness and certain thread properties like its size, coefficient of yarn‐metal friction, twist direction, number of piles, type of fibre and fibre denier on strength reduction has been studied and found to influence the severity of strength reduction of the thread.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 10 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 November 2014

Z.M. Abd El Megid and A. Hamdi

This research aims to develop design solutions for all the obstacles that workers face during the sewing process, and these solutions are focused on the following: chair…

Abstract

This research aims to develop design solutions for all the obstacles that workers face during the sewing process, and these solutions are focused on the following: chair design, sewing table design and sewing machine pedal. The design of the workplace includes the order of the components of the work according to the ability of the human body to handle lighting, ventilation and noise. Both the university and research centre consider that the purpose of the research is to examine these obstacles and propose appropriate solutions that could eliminate these occupational diseases that result from the process of sewing, and increase the production rates and quality which will consequently stimulate the Egyptian economy.

The research originates from the work of an integrated regulatory framework of design tools and equipment used for the sewing process and the related work place in accordance with design ergonomic objectives that when achieved, will accelerate the performance and quality of production, and prevent occupational diseases resultant from poor design. The research has also developed a set of recommendations that deal with the deficiencies in the performance of the sewing process, in order to raise the competitiveness of the garment industry in Egypt.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 18 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

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Article
Publication date: 1 October 1996

Kwok‐Po Stephen Cheng, Yan‐Lai How and Kit‐Lun Yick

Evaluates the mechanical properties of 60 different shirting materials: fabric extensibility, formability, shear rigidity, bending rigidity, relaxation shrinkage, and…

Abstract

Evaluates the mechanical properties of 60 different shirting materials: fabric extensibility, formability, shear rigidity, bending rigidity, relaxation shrinkage, and hygral expansion by the adoption of the fabric assurance by simple testing (FAST) system. Investigates manufacturing processes comprising spreading, cutting, sewing, handling, pressing and packaging and correlates the measured properties of the shirting fabric with their actual performance during making up. Claims this overall evaluation of respective fabric performance enables manufacturers to identify the range of mechanical properties ideal for high‐quality shirt production. Adds that specific manufacturing instructions can be prepared, based on the results of fabric property evaluation, for fabrics which tend to present difficulties in production. Points out that these can considerably expedite the manufacture of garments, avoiding the alternative – expensive “trial and error” – solution to problems.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 8 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 August 2016

Iwona Frydrych and Agnieszka Greszta

Seam efficiency plays an important role for obtaining a desired seam quality. Therefore, this issue is often referred in research papers. The purpose of this paper is to…

Abstract

Purpose

Seam efficiency plays an important role for obtaining a desired seam quality. Therefore, this issue is often referred in research papers. The purpose of this paper is to determine the seam strength and efficiency as well as examining, if and how such factors as: a kind of fabric, kind of thread, kind of seam and the stitch density influence the transverse seam strength and the seam efficiency.

Design/methodology/approach

For research four types of polyester/wool fabrics having different structural parameters and two types of polyester sewing threads were used. Three types of seam were made. The fabric samples were sewn using lockstitch with three different stitch densities. Obtained in this way seams were tested on the tensile machine. The influence of individual factors on the seam strength and its efficiency was assessed statistically using a multivariate variance analysis (ANOVA).

Findings

The findings of this study revealed that the independent variable – stitch density affect significantly of the seam strength as well as its efficiency. Seam strength and seam efficiency values increase with the increase stitch density. Moreover, the variance analysis showed that a kind of fabric also is a statistically significant factor for the seam efficiency and its strength. Furthermore, in the case of seam efficiency it is also important to the stitch direction. However, the study did not show an impact of kind of thread and kind of seam on dependent variables: the seam strength and its efficiency.

Research limitations/implications

Due to the fact that this paper focuses on the seams made only on wool/polyester fabrics with two the most popular weaves, involving only two sewing PES threads, the conclusions presented in this paper are valid only to this assortment and cannot be generalized.

Originality/value

So far, it has not been taken research on the effect of seams with the different number of sewn layers on the seam strength and efficiency. This issue has been taken in this work.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 June 2015

Huirong Cui and Yinong Yan

Garment manufacturing is a traditional industry with global competition. The most critical part is streamline, as it generally involves a great number of operations. The…

Abstract

Purpose

Garment manufacturing is a traditional industry with global competition. The most critical part is streamline, as it generally involves a great number of operations. The purpose of this paper is to, based on the model of group technology (GT), sum up the methods of assembly line optimization to optimize the streamline, so that the machines of the workstation can perform the assigned tasks with a balanced loading.

Design/methodology/approach

In this paper, the methods of obtaining and optimizing data includes literature, research and optimization methods of basing on GT model. The main direction of literature has two aspects: Lean production theory and streamline assignment. Research mainly concludes three aspects: research place, research object and the research content. The method of time determination is averaging the testing values of repeated measurements. Optimization methods of basing on GT model mainly include combination of the same type of technologic processes in sequence, combination of independent branch process, the combination of mainstream and branch processes and offside combination of the same type of processes.

Findings

After optimization, in the utilization rate of equipment: hanging system ratio was increased from 22.95 to 62.12 percent, which greatly improved the utilization rate of enterprise equipment. In equipment layout: hanging equipment layout was turned linear type into “U” type, which realized the synchronization of production. GT model will be well applied in the garment production streamline. Compared with other enterprises, A company has large garment hanging system, which reflects the advanced, comprehensive, representative. Therefore, the paper applied optimization methods to trousers, production efficiency has been improved greatly, the utilization rate of equipment is promoted and reworking phenomenon is reduced greatly.

Research limitations/implications

Through the optimization of the production process and equipment layout, the A company’s compiling efficiency has been greatly improved, but how can the system become computerized, accurately and intelligence, which has been an important direction of research now.

Practical implications

By optimizing, it is fully proved that applying GT to the streamline optimization is feasible. GT is an important branch of Lean production, summing up the optimization methods basing on the GT model to optimize the streamline not only enriches the relevant theory research, but also provides a theoretical basis for the practical production. GT model not only can be used in the shirt production process, as for other production processes, for example, trousers, skirts can also be widely applied, which realizes the theory application in the practical production.

Originality/value

The originality of this paper is that through the analysis of the model of GT, the paper sums up the methods of assembly line optimization to optimize the streamline. Although the model of GT is used widely in electronics, automobile and industry, it is relatively weak in the optimization of garment production line, there are not many literatures on practical application of group technology in the clothing. Besides, the paper is applied to practical production, which not only can improve production efficiency, but also make the theoretical research have basis and combine the theory and practical production.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article
Publication date: 1 December 1994

A.M. Manich, J.P. Domingues and R.M. Sauri

Using six fabrics which are very different in structure and composition, comparisons have been made between British, French and American standards, and between IWS and…

Abstract

Using six fabrics which are very different in structure and composition, comparisons have been made between British, French and American standards, and between IWS and Renault methods for seaming properties determination. According to measuring principles they could be classified into two groups. The calculated correlations within groups were acceptable, while correlations between groups were low. The Renault method is situated between the two groups, because one parameter given by this method showed a good correlation with the British standard, while the other had a good correlation with the French standard.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 6 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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