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1 – 10 of 152S. Raja Balasaraswathi and Jonalee D. Bajpai
Ultrasonic welding is an emerging apparel manufacturing technique. However, the applications are widely explored in the field of technical textiles, with less exploration in the…
Abstract
Purpose
Ultrasonic welding is an emerging apparel manufacturing technique. However, the applications are widely explored in the field of technical textiles, with less exploration in the apparel endues. The purpose of this study is to explore the application of ultrasonic welding in apparel by analyzing the impacts of different parameters.
Design/methodology/approach
This study analyzed the influence of ultrasonic welding parameters, including pressure, welding speed and ultrasonic power on the seam performances (seam strength, seam bursting strength, seam thickness and seam stiffness). The parameters are optimized using Box–Behnken experimental design to achieve better seam performances.
Findings
The properties of ultrasonic seams are influenced by welding and fabric properties. Ultrasonically welded seams showed better performances in the case of comfort properties of seams, whereas the functional properties are lesser compared to conventional seams.
Originality/value
The findings of the research clearly outline the level of influence of different parameters on the performance of the ultrasonically welded seams in knitted fabrics, which can greatly help in applying ultrasonic welding manufacturing methods in apparel manufacturing.
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Motahareh Kargar and Pedram Payvandy
Simulating the behavior of clothing has always been of interest in the apparel, fashion and computer game industries. With the development of these industries, there is a need to…
Abstract
Purpose
Simulating the behavior of clothing has always been of interest in the apparel, fashion and computer game industries. With the development of these industries, there is a need to increase the accuracy of clothing simulation techniques. A garment contains many seams whose behavior affects its final appearance. In this study, a numerical model is presented to simulate seam puckers in single- and double-layer fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
A yarn-level simulation technique has been used for this purpose. Based on this technique, the individual threads in the fabric structure and the sewing threads are modeled separately. Then, their behavior and interaction with each other are considered in the seam pucker model.
Findings
The model is used to simulate the real samples. The results show that the proposed model is able to simulate the degree of seam puckering for a single-layer fabric with an average error of 7.9% and for a double-layer fabric with an average error of 8.5%.
Originality/value
The behavior of the seam is affected by the properties, behavior and interaction of the sewing threads and yarns in the fabric structure. In previous studies, the parameters related to seams and fabrics were not fully considered. In this study, a new yarn-level model is presented to simulate seam puckering in woven fabrics. The most important advantage of this type of simulation is the ability to examine the interaction of fabric threads as well as the interaction of sewing threads with each other and with the threads of the fabric structure.
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Martin Karlsson, Fredrik Bagge Carlson, Martin Holmstrand, Anders Robertsson, Jeroen De Backer, Luisa Quintino, Eurico Assuncao and Rolf Johansson
This study aims to enable robotic friction stir welding (FSW) in practice. The use of robots has hitherto been limited, because of the large contact forces necessary for FSW…
Abstract
Purpose
This study aims to enable robotic friction stir welding (FSW) in practice. The use of robots has hitherto been limited, because of the large contact forces necessary for FSW. These forces are detrimental for the position accuracy of the robot. In this context, it is not sufficient to rely on the robot’s internal sensors for positioning. This paper describes and evaluates a new method for overcoming this issue.
Design/methodology/approach
A closed-loop robot control system for seam-tracking control and force control, running and recording data in real-time operation, was developed. The complete system was experimentally verified. External position measurements were obtained from a laser seam tracker and deviations from the seam were compensated for, using feedback of the measurements to a position controller.
Findings
The proposed system was shown to be working well in overcoming position error. The system is flexible and reconfigurable for batch and short production runs. The welds were free of defects and had beneficial mechanical properties.
Research limitations/implications
In the experiments, the laser seam tracker was used both for control feedback and for performance evaluation. For evaluation, it would be better to use yet another external sensor for position measurements, providing ground truth.
Practical implications
These results imply that robotic FSW is practically realizable, with the accuracy requirements fulfilled.
Originality/value
The method proposed in this research yields very accurate seam tracking as compared to previous research. This accuracy, in turn, is crucial for the quality of the resulting material.
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Wang Zhang, Lizhe Fan, Yanbin Guo, Weihua Liu and Chao Ding
The purpose of this study is to establish a method for accurately extracting torch and seam features. This will improve the quality of narrow gap welding. An adaptive deflection…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to establish a method for accurately extracting torch and seam features. This will improve the quality of narrow gap welding. An adaptive deflection correction system based on passive light vision sensors was designed using the Halcon software from MVtec Germany as a platform.
Design/methodology/approach
This paper proposes an adaptive correction system for welding guns and seams divided into image calibration and feature extraction. In the image calibration method, the field of view distortion because of the position of the camera is resolved using image calibration techniques. In the feature extraction method, clear features of the weld gun and weld seam are accurately extracted after processing using algorithms such as impact filtering, subpixel (XLD), Gaussian Laplacian and sense region for the weld gun and weld seam. The gun and weld seam centers are accurately fitted using least squares. After calculating the deviation values, the error values are monitored, and error correction is achieved by programmable logic controller (PLC) control. Finally, experimental verification and analysis of the tracking errors are carried out.
Findings
The results show that the system achieves great results in dealing with camera aberrations. Weld gun features can be effectively and accurately identified. The difference between a scratch and a weld is effectively distinguished. The system accurately detects the center features of the torch and weld and controls the correction error to within 0.3mm.
Originality/value
An adaptive correction system based on a passive light vision sensor is designed which corrects the field-of-view distortion caused by the camera’s position deviation. Differences in features between scratches and welds are distinguished, and image features are effectively extracted. The final system weld error is controlled to 0.3 mm.
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Samridhi Garg, Vinay Kumar Midha and Monica Sikka
In experiments utilising sweat solution and distilled water, seamed ensembles performed less thermally efficiently than unseamed fabrics.
Abstract
Purpose
In experiments utilising sweat solution and distilled water, seamed ensembles performed less thermally efficiently than unseamed fabrics.
Design/methodology/approach
Water may not accurately reflect perspiration when testing multi-layered clothes for thermal comfort in wet state. Most researchers used water or sodium chloride (NaCl) to measure wet state thermal comfort. However, human perspiration is an extremely complex mixture of aqueous chemicals, including minerals, salts, lipids, urea and lactic acid. This study compares the effects of simulated sweat solution to distilled water on the thermal behaviour of a multi-layered fabric assembly with different seam patterns.
Findings
Experiment results show that stitching decreases thermal resistance and thermal conductivity. Seam pattern of 10 cm diagonal spacing is more thermally resistant than 2.5 cm diagonal spacing. In comparison to that of simulated sweat, fabric that has been moistened with distilled water exhibits increased thermal conductivity. Hollow polyester wadding or micro polyester wadding as the intermediate layer exhibits greater thermal resistance than multi-layered construction with spacer fabric as middle layer.
Originality/value
This study considers human perspiration while designing protective clothing for wet thermal comfort.
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Agya Preet, Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay and Vinay Kumar Midha
Sweating is thermo-regulatory behaviour that occurs when a person performs vigorous activity even in cold climatic condition. One of important component of sweat is the presence…
Abstract
Purpose
Sweating is thermo-regulatory behaviour that occurs when a person performs vigorous activity even in cold climatic condition. One of important component of sweat is the presence of lactate. Based on climatic condition, age, gender, maturity and nature of activity level, the change in lactate concentration is inevitable. Hence, the present study is focussed on the impact of change in the lactate concentration on the moisture transmission behaviour through the clothing. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the impact of changing lactate concentration on the moisture vapour transmission behaviour through multi-layered clothing ensembles.
Design/methodology/approach
For the investigation, sweat solution representing male and female sweat were taken for present study. Two different multi-layered ensembles consisting of either spacer or fleece as middle layer were considered. The water vapour permeability and drying rate test were done at standard atmospheric conditions. After testing, ANOVA analysis was done in order to determine the most significant parameters.
Findings
Fabric structure (constituent layers) behaved differently when tested individually and as the layered component with different sweat solutions. Water vapour permeability of sweat solution with higher lactate concentration was lower as compared to sweat solution with lower lactate concentration. Individual layers showed higher rate of vapour permeability with sweat solution containing lower lactate concentration as compared to multi-layered ensembles. Role of PU coated nylon fabric was predominant in case of multi-layered ensembles. Difference in transmission of sweat solution was found higher in case of uni-directional stitched multi-layer spacer ensembles whereas marginal difference was observed in case of bi-directional seamed multi-layer spacer ensemble. Drying rate of sweat containing lower concentration of lactate was higher as compared to the other sweat solution for all the selected fabrics. Density of liquid and amount of the water available for drying influenced the drying behaviour and thus accounted for difference in drying rate of sweat solution differing in the lactate concentration. The contribution percentage of layers, i.e. type of structure was higher (nearly 93–96%) compared to that of solution type (3.3–4.9%) in case of individual layers whereas in the case of the multi-layer ensembles; type of seam had maximum contribution percentage (71–77%) followed by solution type (10–15%). Type of layers had least contribution percentage (nearly 7–9%).
Practical implications
The findings from the study are expected to be realistic and important in designing and development of cold weather garment ensemble for different gender type depending on their activity level especially in case of military personnel and those performing combat activities.
Originality/value
This experimental work based will provide the insight about the behaviour of actual sweat transmission through the layered fabric ensembles and ways to prevent the accumulation of moisture near to human skin surface by manufacturing suitable design structures (in terms of layering composition and seam patterns) per the morphology and requirement of specific consumers.
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Jurgita Domskiene, Modesta Mitkute and Valdas Grigaliunas
This paper aims to present investigations of the influence of sewing and adhesive bonding technology on the aesthetic, mechanical and conductive properties of the e-textile…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to present investigations of the influence of sewing and adhesive bonding technology on the aesthetic, mechanical and conductive properties of the e-textile package. Commercially available conductive textiles are tested for the production of e-textile package by most common cut-and-sewn clothing production technologies.
Design/methodology/approach
Sewing, adhesive bonding and seam sealing technologies used to obtain e-textile packages with woven and knitted conductive textiles. Produced e-textile packages described in terms of thickness, bending rigidity and general appearance. Exploitation properties of prepared samples tested by cycle tensile experiment and discussed on the basis of variation of linear electrical resistance property.
Findings
Research has shown that a reliable e-textile package can be obtained by applying cut-and-sew technology for conductive tracks of silver coated woven and knitted material. Seam sealing by thermoplastic polymer layer has an impact on the electrical and deformation properties of the samples. To create attractive smart clothing design, the appropriate joining method and its technological parameters must be chosen to ensure the durability and safety of e-textile packages.
Originality/value
The findings of the research are of substantial value for the production of e-textiles by cut-and-sewn technologies. The required shape of the conductive textile element for various applications can be cut and joined to the garment parts using traditional sewing or adhesive bonding techniques.
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Alexandra Frank and Dalena Dillman Taylor
Post-COVID-19, public K–12 schools are still facing the consequences of the years of interrupted learning. Schools serving minoritized students are particularly at risk for facing…
Abstract
Purpose
Post-COVID-19, public K–12 schools are still facing the consequences of the years of interrupted learning. Schools serving minoritized students are particularly at risk for facing challenges with academics, behavior and student social emotional health. The university counseling programs are in positions to build capacity in urban schools while also supporting counselors-in-training through service-learning opportunities.
Design/methodology/approach
The following conceptual manuscript demonstrates how counselor education counseling programs and public schools can harness the capacity-building benefits of university–school partnerships. While prevalent in fields like special education, counselor educators have yet to heed the hall to participate in mutually beneficial partnership programs.
Findings
Using the multi-tiered systems of support (MTSS) and the components of the university–school partnerships, counselor educators and school stakeholders can work together to support student mental health, school staff well-being and counselor-in-training competence.
Originality/value
The benefits and opportunities within the university–school partnerships are well documented. However, few researchers have described a model to support partnerships between the university counseling programs and urban elementary schools. We provide a best practice model using the principles of university–school partnerships and a school’s existing MTSS framework.
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Arzu Şen Kılıç, Can Ünal and Ziynet Ondogan
This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement…
Abstract
Purpose
This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system.
Design/methodology/approach
In this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers’ patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method.
Findings
According to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production.
Originality/value
In the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.
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Eunice Benyah, Richard Acquaye and Raphael Kanyire Seidu
The innovativeness of dressmakers is a concern to respondents to satisfy their clothing needs. The purpose of this study is to determine the criteria that respondents use to judge…
Abstract
Purpose
The innovativeness of dressmakers is a concern to respondents to satisfy their clothing needs. The purpose of this study is to determine the criteria that respondents use to judge the quality of clothing and its influences on the innovative ability of dressmakers in the clothing manufacturing industries.
Design/methodology/approach
Three hundred and ninety-seven (397) respondents in the Takoradi Metropolis of Ghana filled out a questionnaire, and the results were used to compile data for the study. The sample size was calculated using Miller and Brewer formula. The data was analysed using structural equational modelling with the SmartPLS v.4 software.
Findings
The results showed that respondents are very interested in the calibre of clothing produced by their dressmakers. However, the study revealed that when evaluating the quality of a garment, respondents do not simply accept what has been sewn for them but also consider the performance, appearance, fit and shape of the garment. Findings revealed that there was a significant relationship between garment appearance quality (t = 2.605; p < 0.05), garment performance quality (t = 3.915; p < 0.05), garment shape quality (t = 6.248; p <0.05) and fashion innovations. Subsequently, the evaluation of garment fit quality by respondents revealed it does not bring about innovations (t = 1.310; p > 0.05).
Practical implications
The continuous evaluation of custom-made clothing from customers will go a long way towards highlighting the relative criteria they use to evaluate the innovation of dressmakers. This will help improve the creativity of the dressmakers since such feedback will help them understand and innovate their production skills to meet the preferences of customers.
Originality/value
The present study provides an in-depth understanding of how garment quality evaluation by customers influences the innovation of dressmakers in Takoradi, Ghana. The constructs were developed for the study to capture the appropriate data from customers for the study. This presents an evaluation criterion on four garment quality variables imperative for use or modification by other studies.
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