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An improved waterproof seam production technology (ultrasonic welding-thermo adhesive tape sealing (USW-TATS)) was developed in this study. The technology will improve the waterproof performance of seam which has problem resulted from needle holes and thread like seam leaking and excess shrinkage.

Threadless seams were produced by ultrasonic welding (USW) with coated and lamination fabric to replace the traditional sewing process in Sewing-thermo adhesive tape sealing (S-TATS). The process efficiency was evaluated by Methods-Time Measurement (MTM). Seam performance including hydrostatic pressure, shrinkage and tear force was compared among three technologies (USW, USW-TATS and S-TATS). The effect of ultrasonic welding parameters (amplitude, roller pressure and roller speed) on the USW-TATS seam performance was investigated.SEM analysis was carried out to examine the condition and morphology of the joints cross section.

It was found that waterproof performance and dimensional stability of USW-TATS seam were superior to that of S-TATS seam. Tear force and hydrostatic pressure increased firstly and then decreased with the increasing of USW parameters in UAW-TATS process. Binary regression relationships were found between the USW parameters and tear force or hydrostatic pressure. Shrinkage decreased with the increasing of roller pressure and speed.

Research results can be applied to predict seam performance of waterproof clothing, reduce equipment parameters setting time and enhance product quality in industry.

A threadless production technology (USW-TATS) was proposed to improve waterproof performance and dimensional stability of outdoor clothing seams.

Ultrasonic welding is an emerging apparel manufacturing technique. However, the applications are widely explored in the field of technical textiles, with less exploration in the apparel endues. The purpose of this study is to explore the application of ultrasonic welding in apparel by analyzing the impacts of different parameters.

This study analyzed the influence of ultrasonic welding parameters, including pressure, welding speed and ultrasonic power on the seam performances (seam strength, seam bursting strength, seam thickness and seam stiffness). The parameters are optimized using Box–Behnken experimental design to achieve better seam performances.

The properties of ultrasonic seams are influenced by welding and fabric properties. Ultrasonically welded seams showed better performances in the case of comfort properties of seams, whereas the functional properties are lesser compared to conventional seams.

The findings of the research clearly outline the level of influence of different parameters on the performance of the ultrasonically welded seams in knitted fabrics, which can greatly help in applying ultrasonic welding manufacturing methods in apparel manufacturing.

Sewing thread plays an important role in transforming a two-dimensional fabric into three-dimensional garment. Over the years, ring spinning has been dominating the yarn market because of its consistent performance. Eli-Twist spinning system, a new method of yarn manufacture, provides a product with improved mechanical and physical properties than the conventional ring-spun yarn. It is the process of producing a two-ply compact yarn with improved fibre utilisation. The purpose of this paper is to assess the feasibility of using Eli-Twist yarn as a sewing thread and to compare its performance with conventional thread.

In this study, regular polyester and Indian cotton were used to produce the Eli-Twist and conventional TFO thread. Three different blends (100 per cent polyester, 50/50 polyester/cotton [P/C] and 100 per cent cotton) were taken to produce three different counts (39.4 tex, 29.5 tex and 23.6 tex) from each composition. The hairiness, tenacity, breaking elongation and coefficient of yarn-to-metal friction of threads were tested and a comparative analysis was made. The seam performance of all the threads was judged by seam strength, seam efficiency and seam elongation.

The results show that the mass irregularity and imperfections are more or less similar for both types of threads. Eli-Twist sewing thread has shown less friction, less hairiness and higher tensile strength. The Eli-Twist sewing thread was found to be better than the conventional two-ply sewing thread. The seam performance parameters, such as seam strength, seam efficiency and seam elongation of the Eli-Twist thread showed significantly improved performance.

The main concern of this study is delineating the performance of the Eli-Twist sewing thread. No study in this regard has been reported so far. The improved physical and mechanical behaviour of the Eli-Twist yarn has prompted to assess its performance as sewing thread.

This paper reports an experimental investigation into the effect of laundering on seam tensile properties with the variation of stitch density, linear density of sewing threads and composition of base material. Tensile properties such as initial modulus, secant modulus, seam strength, strain at fracture and work up to fracture increase with stitch and linear density of sewing threads. The impact of coarser yarn is greater on seam properties of polyester‐cotton fabric than cotton fabric. The tensile properties except seam strain are reduced due to laundering. Reduction in initial modulus and secant modulus due to laundering is higher for polyester‐cotton fabric whereas decrease in seam strength, seam efficiency and strain at break is greater for coarser sewing thread.

The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric into the garment and actual performance of the sewn fabric during wear of the garment. The adjustment of all sewing parameters is necessary to ensure quality. The purpose of this paper is to define the parameters that affect seam quality comprehensively.

This study primarily focuses on the studies dealing with the effect of various parameters on-seam quality in detail. A systematic literature review was conducted.

The interactions between parameters may lead to different results than the effect of a single parameter. In addition, changing some parameters may have a positive effect on one element of seam quality while having a negative effect on another. For this reason, it is very important to properly select the parameters according to the specific end use of the garment products and also to consider the interactions.

The knowledge of various factors that affect seam quality will be helpful for manufacturers to improve production performance and to be able to produce high-quality seam.

The purpose of this paper is to make available to the parachute industry tools to predict behaviour of certain textile materials. In addition to this, it is desired to reveal and explain the basic requirement criteria for proper textile material selection. The strength of an assembly as a whole is directly dependent on the strengths of the various joints and seams required to assemble the larger structure. Keeping in mind the complex problem of parachute construction, this research seeks to enlighten the industry about the performance of seams in nylon woven canopy fabrics. Five factors have been studied: different types of weave (plain, rip-stop and twill), density (number of stitches per centimetre), different rows of stitches with lapped seams, different types of stitches (lock stitch, chain stitch and zig-zag) and seam direction (warp, weft and bias direction). Two responses have been analysed, the seam breaking force and the seam efficiency (per cent ratio of seam strength to fabric strength). The test results were subjected to an analysis of variance and the seam strength proved to vary significantly not only with the primary parameters, but with the interactions of the primary parameters as well. That is seam strength (and seam efficiency) changes with each primary parameter but it changes in a different manner when other parameters change. Multiple regressions have been used to construct preliminary predictor equations for seam strength and efficiency, and investigations to provide better equations are in progress.

ANOVA techniques and statistical regression equations were formed.

The work has concluded that twill weave 9 with chain stitch has the maximum seam strength, which makes canopies made with 2/1 twill weave and stitched with lapped seam with four rows of chain stitch optimum for heavy supply droppings with a single use parachute(s). It is evident from the results that twill weave with lock stich has the maximum seam efficiency. This makes the canopies stitched with twill fabric, constructed with lapped seams and four rows of stitches ideal for parachutes to be used multiple times. The brake parachutes on aircrafts and parachutes used by sky divers and air combat soldiers can use parachutes whose canopies can be used many times made out of the above mentioned weave and stitch specification.

Original work was conducted from the woven fabrics.

The purpose of this review paper is to outline the parachute materials and its behavior. To enhance parachute life, it is highly desirable to consider the commercial angle for any parachute manufacturing industry and its components under varying operational conditions. Hence, the knowledge of various textile materials and operational conditions which contributes the parachute strength and durability will be helpful for industries/researchers.

This section is not applicable for a review paper.

Parachute is a material used in numerous real-time applications such as man-drop, cargo delivery, aircraft recovery and aircraft decelerator which drastically reduces human efforts and time. However, each application requires a unique design and fabric selection to achieve the area of drag needed and the terminal velocity of the parachute material while in flight. For designing a man-drop parachute, the most critical parameters are weight and strength which must be considered during manufacturing. The army person uses the man-drop parachute, which must be as light as possible.

This paper is an original review work and will be helpful for parachute manufacturers/researchers to enhance the life of parachutes with improved functionality.

The properties of polyester/cotton (PC) fabric after chemical treatments as lining in woolen suits has been investigated, as the purpose of this paper is to study the influence of different finishing agents and their concentration on the properties of PC fabrics.

Three different chemical finishes such as anti-slip finish, softener and moisture management finish were applied to currently popular 80/20 PC pocketing fabric at three different concentration levels. A total of 60 seams were produced from 2/1 twill woolen shell fabric and chemically treated lining. Six important tests defining comfort and seam’s quality of lining fabric were chosen, namely, seam strength, seam slippage, stiffness, drape, water vapor transmission (WVT), abrasion resistance to study its properties and testing were done as per standardized test methods.

Chemical treatments affect the properties of PC fabric used as lining significantly in terms of seam strength, seam slippage, WVT and abrasion resistance. Among the three applied chemical finishes softener, at 20, 40 and 60 g/l, was found to be the best choice to make PC fabric suitable in terms of seam performance, durability, drape and comfort for use lining in suits with economic advantage.

The paper contributes to understanding the properties of relatively cheap 80/20 PC pocketing fabric used as lining in a suit.

The purpose of this paper is to propose a rational and complete design scheme of seam type of outdoor clothing, so as to improve the seam efficiency and appearance of outdoor clothing, as well as to provide an optimal seam base for the subsequent pressure adhesive process.

Four types of common outdoor fabrics and four seam types were selected. Seam strength and thickness were measured. Seam efficiency and seam thickness strain were calculated to evaluate seam quality. Multiple linear regression analysis was adopted to analyze the influence of seam type essential factors on seam strength.

Among the component factors of seam type, based on two stitches, seam strength was significantly affected by stitch distance, followed by fabric layer on the seam side. The increase of stitch and the interaction among fabrics can effectively improve the seam efficiency. The methods are as follows: the increase of stitches, stitch distance shortening, the increase of fabric layers, etc. The change of seam type had no significant influence on seam thickness strain. A seam-type design scheme of outdoor clothing with good mechanical and appearance properties was designed by choosing the seam types FX₁, FX₂ and FX₄.

This paper designed a practical scheme of seam-type design of outdoor clothing, which has been applied in the industrial production process. It is important for guiding the improvement of seam quality and the production efficiency of outdoor clothing.

The focus of this research is to identify the optimum commercial grade sewing thread and stitch density to be used with woven linen shirting fabric used in making men’s formal shirt. Maximum seam efficiency and interaction between the process parameters were assessed.

The classical method of optimisation involves varying one variable at a time and keeping the others constant. This is often useful, but it does not explain the effect of interaction between the variables under consideration. In this study, the response surface methodology was used for securing a more accurate optimisation of seam quality (seam efficiency) of woven linen shirting fabric. The response surface method is an empirical statistical technique used for multiple regression analysis of quantitative data obtained from statistically designed experiments by solving the multivariate equations simultaneously. Through this system, the input level of each process parameter, i.e. variable and the level of the selected response (seam efficiency), can be quantified. The central composite, Box–Behnken, is the common design used here.

The maximum seam efficiency is 79.62 per cent and 83.13 per cent in warp and weft direction, respectively, with optimum areal density (G) of 110 g/m² of woven linen shirting fabric. The most suitable stitch density and ticket number of commercial grade sewing thread for woven linen shirting fabric are 13-13.5 and 40, respectively.

This study could help apparel manufacturers to evaluate seam quality, i.e. seam efficiency of woven linen fabric for men’s shirting, more effectively from the proposed regression model. The optimisation of the commercial grade sewing thread size and stitch density used in this study for woven linen shirting fabric within the range of 110-150 g/m² will facilitate apparel engineers in production planning and quality control.

There is dearth of research on seam quality for woven linen shirting fabric using commercial grade sewing thread and engineering of prediction regression model for the estimation of seam efficiency by using process parameters, namely, fabric G, thread size and thread density and their interaction.