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Article
Publication date: 1 August 2011

Vinay Kumar Midha, A Mukhopadhyay and Ramanpreet Kaur

Owing to a high amount of stress, seam failure in workwear fabrics makes the fabric unsuitable although the fabric strength is high. It is therefore important to predict…

Abstract

Owing to a high amount of stress, seam failure in workwear fabrics makes the fabric unsuitable although the fabric strength is high. It is therefore important to predict the seam strength to ascertain the performance of the garments during use and determine the required thread strength and stitch density to match the required seam strength. In all of the earlier predictive equations, seam strength is predicted from thread strength and stitch density along with some multiplicative factors. During the sewing process, a substantial loss in needle thread strength occurs; therefore, the thread becomes weaker than expected after incorporation into the seam. In this paper, the effects of various machine and process parameters are studied on thread strength loss and seam strength. The seam strength is predicted from the loop strength after considering the loss in thread strength. It is observed that higher seam strengths are observed when stronger threads are used for sewing. Loss in thread strength has a significant influence on the seam strength. Seam strength can be predicted using stitch density and thread loop strength, by considering the loss in thread strength during the sewing process. A closer match between predicted and experimental seam strength is possible.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 15 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2016

Iwona Frydrych and Agnieszka Greszta

Seam efficiency plays an important role for obtaining a desired seam quality. Therefore, this issue is often referred in research papers. The purpose of this paper is to…

Abstract

Purpose

Seam efficiency plays an important role for obtaining a desired seam quality. Therefore, this issue is often referred in research papers. The purpose of this paper is to determine the seam strength and efficiency as well as examining, if and how such factors as: a kind of fabric, kind of thread, kind of seam and the stitch density influence the transverse seam strength and the seam efficiency.

Design/methodology/approach

For research four types of polyester/wool fabrics having different structural parameters and two types of polyester sewing threads were used. Three types of seam were made. The fabric samples were sewn using lockstitch with three different stitch densities. Obtained in this way seams were tested on the tensile machine. The influence of individual factors on the seam strength and its efficiency was assessed statistically using a multivariate variance analysis (ANOVA).

Findings

The findings of this study revealed that the independent variable – stitch density affect significantly of the seam strength as well as its efficiency. Seam strength and seam efficiency values increase with the increase stitch density. Moreover, the variance analysis showed that a kind of fabric also is a statistically significant factor for the seam efficiency and its strength. Furthermore, in the case of seam efficiency it is also important to the stitch direction. However, the study did not show an impact of kind of thread and kind of seam on dependent variables: the seam strength and its efficiency.

Research limitations/implications

Due to the fact that this paper focuses on the seams made only on wool/polyester fabrics with two the most popular weaves, involving only two sewing PES threads, the conclusions presented in this paper are valid only to this assortment and cannot be generalized.

Originality/value

So far, it has not been taken research on the effect of seams with the different number of sewn layers on the seam strength and efficiency. This issue has been taken in this work.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 22 November 2017

Gerda Mikalauskaite and Virginija Daukantiene

The purpose of this paper is to determine the influence of the loading velocity on textile bonds and sewn seam strength.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to determine the influence of the loading velocity on textile bonds and sewn seam strength.

Design/methodology/approach

Commercially produced polyamide and polyester knitted fabric, and polyester woven fabrics as well as three commercially available monolayer urethane thermoplastic films were used in this research. Two layers of each fabric were laminated at 160°C temperature at 5.6 kPa for 20 seconds. Sewn specimens were joined applying (301) and (514) stiches for woven and knitted fabrics, respectively. The bond and sewn seam strength was investigated at different delamination loading velocities (50, 100, 150, 200, 300 mm/min). These values of velocities lies in the velocity interval which covers the different standard requirements for testing of the quality of textiles and their seams or were applied in the research works of previous scientists. As the influence of loading velocity was more significant for bond strength, the bond strength results were analyzed together with the analysis of bond rupture character.

Findings

The determined influence of the loading velocity on textile bonds strength has proved that the loading velocity in bond strength test is of high importance for the prediction of the behavior of clothing being in exploitation under different conditions. The opposite tendency was determined for the sewn seams, the strength of which was independent on loading velocity.

Originality/value

The influence of the loading velocity on textile bond and sewn seam strength was not analyzed in the previous research works published by other scientists. It was known that the standard velocity is 50 mm/min for seams and 100 mm/min for textiles strength testing. It was shown there that the real exploitation of a garment as a whole complicated heterogenic dynamic system could be simulated with changing loading velocities during their seam strength testing. It was also determined that the loading velocity makes different influence on bonded and sewn seams of textiles.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 August 2017

D. Vijay Kirubakar Raj and M. Renuka Devi

The purpose of this paper is to make available to the parachute industry tools to predict behaviour of certain textile materials. In addition to this, it is desired to…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to make available to the parachute industry tools to predict behaviour of certain textile materials. In addition to this, it is desired to reveal and explain the basic requirement criteria for proper textile material selection. The strength of an assembly as a whole is directly dependent on the strengths of the various joints and seams required to assemble the larger structure. Keeping in mind the complex problem of parachute construction, this research seeks to enlighten the industry about the performance of seams in nylon woven canopy fabrics. Five factors have been studied: different types of weave (plain, rip-stop and twill), density (number of stitches per centimetre), different rows of stitches with lapped seams, different types of stitches (lock stitch, chain stitch and zig-zag) and seam direction (warp, weft and bias direction). Two responses have been analysed, the seam breaking force and the seam efficiency (per cent ratio of seam strength to fabric strength). The test results were subjected to an analysis of variance and the seam strength proved to vary significantly not only with the primary parameters, but with the interactions of the primary parameters as well. That is seam strength (and seam efficiency) changes with each primary parameter but it changes in a different manner when other parameters change. Multiple regressions have been used to construct preliminary predictor equations for seam strength and efficiency, and investigations to provide better equations are in progress.

Design/methodology/approach

ANOVA techniques and statistical regression equations were formed.

Findings

The work has concluded that twill weave 9 with chain stitch has the maximum seam strength, which makes canopies made with 2/1 twill weave and stitched with lapped seam with four rows of chain stitch optimum for heavy supply droppings with a single use parachute(s). It is evident from the results that twill weave with lock stich has the maximum seam efficiency. This makes the canopies stitched with twill fabric, constructed with lapped seams and four rows of stitches ideal for parachutes to be used multiple times. The brake parachutes on aircrafts and parachutes used by sky divers and air combat soldiers can use parachutes whose canopies can be used many times made out of the above mentioned weave and stitch specification.

Originality/value

Original work was conducted from the woven fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 August 2017

Hui Shi, Lingxi Zhang and Jianping Wang

The purpose of this paper is to propose a rational and complete design scheme of seam type of outdoor clothing, so as to improve the seam efficiency and appearance of…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to propose a rational and complete design scheme of seam type of outdoor clothing, so as to improve the seam efficiency and appearance of outdoor clothing, as well as to provide an optimal seam base for the subsequent pressure adhesive process.

Design/methodology/approach

Four types of common outdoor fabrics and four seam types were selected. Seam strength and thickness were measured. Seam efficiency and seam thickness strain were calculated to evaluate seam quality. Multiple linear regression analysis was adopted to analyze the influence of seam type essential factors on seam strength.

Findings

Among the component factors of seam type, based on two stitches, seam strength was significantly affected by stitch distance, followed by fabric layer on the seam side. The increase of stitch and the interaction among fabrics can effectively improve the seam efficiency. The methods are as follows: the increase of stitches, stitch distance shortening, the increase of fabric layers, etc. The change of seam type had no significant influence on seam thickness strain. A seam-type design scheme of outdoor clothing with good mechanical and appearance properties was designed by choosing the seam types FX1, FX2 and FX4.

Originality/value

This paper designed a practical scheme of seam-type design of outdoor clothing, which has been applied in the industrial production process. It is important for guiding the improvement of seam quality and the production efficiency of outdoor clothing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 29 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 October 2021

Esra Zeynep Yıldız and Oktay Pamuk

The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion…

Abstract

Purpose

The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric into the garment and actual performance of the sewn fabric during wear of the garment. The adjustment of all sewing parameters is necessary to ensure quality. The purpose of this paper is to define the parameters that affect seam quality comprehensively.

Design/methodology/approach

This study primarily focuses on the studies dealing with the effect of various parameters on-seam quality in detail. A systematic literature review was conducted.

Findings

The interactions between parameters may lead to different results than the effect of a single parameter. In addition, changing some parameters may have a positive effect on one element of seam quality while having a negative effect on another. For this reason, it is very important to properly select the parameters according to the specific end use of the garment products and also to consider the interactions.

Originality/value

The knowledge of various factors that affect seam quality will be helpful for manufacturers to improve production performance and to be able to produce high-quality seam.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 25 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2004

A. Mukhopadhyay, M. Sikka and A.K. Karmakar

This paper reports an experimental investigation into the effect of laundering on seam tensile properties with the variation of stitch density, linear density of sewing…

1014

Abstract

This paper reports an experimental investigation into the effect of laundering on seam tensile properties with the variation of stitch density, linear density of sewing threads and composition of base material. Tensile properties such as initial modulus, secant modulus, seam strength, strain at fracture and work up to fracture increase with stitch and linear density of sewing threads. The impact of coarser yarn is greater on seam properties of polyester‐cotton fabric than cotton fabric. The tensile properties except seam strain are reduced due to laundering. Reduction in initial modulus and secant modulus due to laundering is higher for polyester‐cotton fabric whereas decrease in seam strength, seam efficiency and strain at break is greater for coarser sewing thread.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 16 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 November 2015

Mahmut Kayar, Suleyman Ilker Mistik and Deniz Inan

– The purpose of this paper is to investigate the factors effecting ultrasonic seam tensile properties.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the factors effecting ultrasonic seam tensile properties.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, 100 percent polypropylene and 100 percent polyester spunbond and meltblown nonwoven fabrics were sewn by using ultrasonic sewing machine with different rollers which have two, three and four rows. Seam tensile properties of the sewn nonwoven fabrics were investigated. Four-Level Nested Anova Design was applied to the data by using Minitab 15 software program.

Findings

Higher seam strength values were obtained by using four rows roller, PP fiber, spunbond fabric and 50 g/m2 fabric area density for all nonwoven fabrics. Statistical significance was found between fabric area density, roller rows and seam tensile strength properties and between fabric type, roller rows and seam elongation at break values.

Originality/value

When the authors look at the studies related to ultrasonic sewing, several researchers studied on welding parameters of ultrasonic sewing but very limited studies were performed on assembling of nonwoven fabrics with ultrasonic sewing. Therefore effect of production methods of nonwoven fabrics on the properties of ultrasonic sewing such as seam strength and elongation at break should be investigated.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 27 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 May 2018

Awadhesh Kumar Choudhary, Monica Puri Sikka and Payal Bansal

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the seam damages and causing defects. It also describes the various explanations of sewing defects in garment production and critically analyzes them for optimum selection of parameters and speeds for minimizing such faults. Hence, the knowledge of various factors which affect the sewing damages/defects will be helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to know influence of the parameters and control the quality of producing seam.

Design/methodology/approach

This section is not applicable for a review paper.

Findings

Sewing damages such as needle cut and other sewing damages/defects are studied mostly in woven fabric. There are very few studies conducted on knitted fabric sewing damages/defects. The sewing damage problems do not have single solution that is capable of removing these damages in fabric. All the determined and affecting parameters related to fiber, yarn, fabric construction, sewing thread and sewing machine must be examined to design appropriate remedial measurement related to machine design, fabric parameters and sewing thread. This could help in minimizing or eliminating the needle cut and other sewing damage problems.

Originality/value

It is an original review work and is helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to reduce the defects and be able to produce good quality seam.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 22 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 July 2019

Yaşar Erayman Yüksel and Yasemin Korkmaz

Durability of textile materials under wet conditions has become very important in recent years. The water repellency performance of fabrics should be maintained in the seam

Abstract

Purpose

Durability of textile materials under wet conditions has become very important in recent years. The water repellency performance of fabrics should be maintained in the seam areas. The purpose of this paper is to analyze the effect of water repellent agents and sewing threads on the seam and water repellency performance properties of woven fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

100 percent polyester woven fabrics were treated with three different water repellent finishing agents (silicone, fluorocarbons with 6 and 8 carbons) and then sewn with different sewing threads (unfinished/water repellent finished polyester/cotton corespun and polyamide filament). Afterwards, mechanical properties, seam performance and water repellency properties of these materials were measured.

Findings

The effect of finishing which was statistically significant on seam strength only in warp direction was significant on seam elongation and efficiency in both warp and weft directions. Seam strength, seam efficiency, seam slippage and seam pucker of fabrics sewn with polyamide threads were higher than others. The fluorocarbons applied to the fabrics gave higher water repellency values than silicones. In addition, as the chain length increased in fluorocarbons, water repellency performance increased. Sewing process reduced water resistance of fabrics; however, water repellent finish applied to the threads increased water resistance of fabrics.

Originality/value

As a result of the literature review, it was seen that water repellency property of a wear were studied in only seamless areas of fabrics. Originality of this study is that the water repellency properties are also analyzed in the seam areas of the fabrics and evaluated together with the seam performance characteristics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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