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Article

S. Kawabata and Masako Niwa

Textiles as clothing material must fit the human body and senses. This fitting is an important performance of the textiles besides the utility performance of textiles such…

Abstract

Textiles as clothing material must fit the human body and senses. This fitting is an important performance of the textiles besides the utility performance of textiles such as fabric strength. For many years, the performance concerning this fitness has been evaluated subjectively by hand judgement. The fabric property judged in such a way is called fabric handle. Instead of the subjective method, the objective evaluation system of fabric handle has been developed. The system is introduced firstly. In this objective method, the handle is evaluated based on the fabric mechanical and surface properties measured by the KESF instrument. The mechanical parameters of fabric measured by the instrument are useful not only for the fabric handle evaluation but also for textile and apparel engineering through the direct use of the parameters. The applications of the objective measurement of fabric handle and properties to textile and apparel engineering are introduced.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 3 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article

S. Kawabata and Masako Niwa

Discusses the quality of fabrics and garment technology. Looks at the various types of material focusing particularly on the female market. Shows how new synthetic fibres…

Abstract

Discusses the quality of fabrics and garment technology. Looks at the various types of material focusing particularly on the female market. Shows how new synthetic fibres have improved the feel of garments and that consumers, fashion designers and experts in finishing have all reached the same conclusion, that quality judgement is still possible, even with today's exacting standards.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 4 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article

S. Kawabata, Masako Niwa, K. Ito and M. Nitta

The application of objective measurement of the mechanical properties of fabrics in the apparel industry began around 1975 in the Hirakata area, which is one of the…

Abstract

The application of objective measurement of the mechanical properties of fabrics in the apparel industry began around 1975 in the Hirakata area, which is one of the centres of men's suit production in Japan. At that time the KESF system had been developed and thereafter spread rapidly. The measurement of mechanical data under low‐load level by the KESF provided useful information for the apparel engineers who needed some means of fabric measurement by which the tailoring process might be controlled. The fabric dimensional stability testing using steam press was also standardised at that time (HESC 103A method). At present, the KESF data and the stability data are essential for apparel engineers and are used widely in the Japanese apparel industry. In addition to the use of objective measurements in each factory, a centre for objective fabric inspection has been recently initiated in the Hirakata area, for the inspection and control of fabric by the objective system for tailoring process control. In addition, a co‐operative work between the apparel engineers and the university has been carried out to develop a new equation for predicting the good appearance of a suit on the basis of fabric mechanical data. Automatic tailoring such as automatic overfeed action on the basis of fabric mechanical property is also carried out under the co‐operation of the university, the apparel industry, and a sewing machine manufacturer (Juki) in Hirakata. The progress of these projects is presented.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 2 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article

S. Kawabata, Masako Niwa, R. Koztowsky, S. Manys, K. Nakano and Takako Inoue

Recently, the Polish National Fiber Research Laboratory provided linen samples. In addition to these Polish fabric samples, we also collected linen fabric samples which…

Abstract

Recently, the Polish National Fiber Research Laboratory provided linen samples. In addition to these Polish fabric samples, we also collected linen fabric samples which were made in Japan and throughout Europe. We have investigated hand properties of various linen fabrics, and identification of the Polish linen fabrics quality from those of other linen fabrics. The fabric hand of Polish linen fabrics is unique, it possesses a hand just between wool‐like and cotton‐like fabrics. We have clarified that the Polish linen fabrics are suitable for hari‐type and tailored type silhouette designs for women’s wear, and the fabrics are well‐suited for finishing garment appearance.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 12 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article

Takako Inoue and Masako Niwa

Japanese traditional Chirimen fabrics are used for making kimonos, which have a fixed structure and are worn in very particular ways. These fabrics have also been used as…

Abstract

Purpose

Japanese traditional Chirimen fabrics are used for making kimonos, which have a fixed structure and are worn in very particular ways. These fabrics have also been used as dress fabrics in recent years. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the characteristics of the mechanical properties of various types of Chirimen to clarify differences in their hand value (HV) and clothing appearance.

Design/methodology/approach

Chirimen fabrics were collected from the largest producing area, the Tango district, plus silk Chirimen and 40 polyester Chirimen samples, resulting in a total of 311 samples. The mechanical properties, HVs, and formability of Chirimen fabrics used for kimono fabrics were compared to those of Western fabrics, and their unique features were clarified.

Findings

Values of the weft direction of bending properties of all Chirimen groups, men and women's suit fabrics, and dress shirt fabrics were at the same level. A significant feature of the mechanical parameters of each Chirimen group (excluding logSP which are compound values of bending properties and shearing properties) was that they were in the range for ideal men's suiting zone. HV KOSHI of Chirimen is found to be closely related to the bending properties, thickness and weight of the fabric, and HV TEKASA of Chirimen is found to be closely related to the thickness and weight of the fabric.

Originality/value

This paper clarifies Chirimen's mechanical properties which contribute to traditional subjective evaluation by fabric experts.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 22 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article

T. Inoue, M. Niwa, Y. Yamashita, Y. Minamide, D. Inoue, A. Ishikawa and S. Kawabata

In order to establish an objective method of evaluating ladies’ garment fabrics by connecting the mechanical properties of ladies’ garment fabrics to subjective…

Abstract

In order to establish an objective method of evaluating ladies’ garment fabrics by connecting the mechanical properties of ladies’ garment fabrics to subjective evaluation, subjective assessments were examined by judges who work at textile mills or in the textile trade. We examined a method of deriving objective equations, a total hand value (THV) equation and a total appearance value (TAV) equation. The THV equation was derived directly from the mechanical properties of the fabrics and the TAV equation was derived from three mechanical parameters which are related to the beauty of garment appearance. In the case of the THV objective equation, the accuracy of regression was high within the same groups of judges; however, in the case of the TAV objective equation, accuracy was slightly low. Because there were few subjects and that caused deviation, the accuracy of prediction was slightly low; however, the objective evaluation was adequate.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 12 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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Article

Hiroko Yokura and Sachiko Sukigara

For over a century, traditional Japanese cotton crepe fabrics have been popular for men’s underwear in the humid summer. Now, consumer demand is for crepe fabrics that are…

Abstract

Purpose

For over a century, traditional Japanese cotton crepe fabrics have been popular for men’s underwear in the humid summer. Now, consumer demand is for crepe fabrics that are more attractive, reflecting a shift in use from underwear to women’s dresses. The purpose of this paper is to clarify how the structures of the crepe and its constituent yarns affect the physical properties, handle and silhouette formability of crepe fabrics for dresses.

Design/methodology/approach

Three plain-weave gray fabrics were finished by four different processes to change their crepe structures. The mechanical and surface properties of the fabrics were measured using the Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics. The primary hand values and silhouette formability of the fabrics were calculated using conversion equations based on the physical properties. The handle of the crepe fabrics and the aesthetic appearance of flared collars made of them were assessed by female students using the semantic differential method.

Findings

Comparing the fabrics made from the same gray fabric, the piqué crepe fabrics showed larger Hari (anti-drape) and Shari (crispness) than the others. The subjective hand value of softness was closely related to fabric thickness. The assessors preferred the fine piqué crepe fabrics over the wide piqué fabrics regarding both the tactile feeling of the fabrics and the aesthetic appearance of the flared collars. The attractiveness of the flared collars was dominated by the shear stiffness of the fabrics.

Originality/value

The fine piqué crepe fabric made from fine yarns produced a more preferable handle. The fine piqué fabric made from thicker yarns produced flared collars with silhouettes that are more attractive. This indicates that the fine piqué structure is a positive feature that makes the fabric suitable for various types of dresses.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 32 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article

Robert Grafton Small

Despite tempting parallels between contemporary theories of biological evolution and the commonplace adaptation of products in varying cultures and circumstances, any…

Abstract

Despite tempting parallels between contemporary theories of biological evolution and the commonplace adaptation of products in varying cultures and circumstances, any apparent support for notions of market‐based Social Darwinism is seen as misplaced. Closely observed examples from Japanese commerce show that exchanges of goods, ideas and people involve processes of “bricolage” whereby consumers’ individual and collective skills in trading words and things enable the retention and repair of their various social standings as well as their broader ethical and cultural assumptions. These multiplying interpretations are the bases of our everyday lives and the route by which inequalities in popular access to power, language and goods reflect and reinforce other imbalances evident in the workings of both market economies and consumer cultures.

Details

European Journal of Marketing, vol. 31 no. 3/4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0309-0566

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Article

S. Kawabata, Y. Yamashita and Y. Endo

Power‐net is an extensible fabric and has a net structure. The biaxial extension property of this fabric is analysed and compared with experimental results obtained by a…

Abstract

Power‐net is an extensible fabric and has a net structure. The biaxial extension property of this fabric is analysed and compared with experimental results obtained by a biaxial tensile tester.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 12 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

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Article

Md Samsu Alam, Abhijit Majumdar and Anindya Ghosh

Bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics depend on fibre, yarn and fabric-related parameters. However, there is lack of research efforts to understand how bending and…

Abstract

Purpose

Bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics depend on fibre, yarn and fabric-related parameters. However, there is lack of research efforts to understand how bending and shear rigidities change in woven fabrics having similar areal density. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the change in bending and shear rigidities in plain woven fabrics having similar areal density.

Design/methodology/approach

A total of 18 fabrics were woven (9 each for 100 per cent cotton and 100 per cent polyester) keeping the areal density same. Yarns of 20, 30 and 40 Ne were used in warp and weft wise directions and fabric sett was adjusted to attain the desired areal density.

Findings

When warp yarns become finer, keeping weft yarns same, bending rigidity remains unchanged but shear rigidity increases in warp wise direction. When weft yarns are made finer, keeping the warp yarns same, both the bending and shear rigidities of fabric increase in warp wise direction. Similar results for fabric bending and shear rigidities were obtained in transpose direction. There is a strong association between fabric shear rigidity and number of interlacement points per unit area of fabric even when fabric areal density is same.

Originality/value

Very limited research has been reported on the low-stress mechanical properties of woven fabrics having similar areal density. A novel attempt has been made in this research work to investigate the bending and shear rigidities of woven fabrics having similar areal density. Besides, it has been shown that it is possible to design a set of woven fabrics having similar bending rigidity but different shear rigidity.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 31 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

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