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Article
Publication date: 3 July 2017

Padma S. Vankar, Dhara Shukla, Samudrika Wijayapala and Asish Kumar Samanta

Natural dyes are mostly used for dyeing of natural fibre textiles to improve their eco-friendly features. For successful commercial use of natural dyes, the appropriate and…

Abstract

Purpose

Natural dyes are mostly used for dyeing of natural fibre textiles to improve their eco-friendly features. For successful commercial use of natural dyes, the appropriate and standardized dyeing techniques need to be adopted. Appropriate scientific techniques or procedures need to be derived from scientific studies on dyeing methods, dyeing process variables, dyeing kinetics and compatibility of selective natural dyes with minimal use of hazardous chemicals.

Design/methodology/approach

In the present study, different enzymes (protease, amylase, xylanase, pectinase, phytase) were used efficiently with Rubia dye by using simultaneous and two-step processes; both the processes were developed with an aim for conservation of time and energy, for the ease of industrial use. The highlights of the study are twofold: eco-friendly natural dyeing by using enzyme replacing metal mordant and room temperature dyeing, which is a completely new concept.

Findings

Experiments showed that enzymatic treatment can give good colour strength to silk fabric using Rubia as a dye source and has good potential for commercial dyeing. It is a non-toxic dye. Use of enzymes were a deliberate attempt to avoid metal mordanting in silk dyeing, as it would make textile dyeing eco-friendlier. The order of reactivity of enzymes in one-step process was found to be protease > phytase > xylanase > amylase > pectinase. Similarly, for two-step dyeing process, the order of reactivity of enzymes observed was protease > amylase > xylanase = pectinase > phytase. Protease enzyme was the best option in both the cases. Overall, it can be concluded that in the case of enzymatic treatment, the two-step process was better in terms of larger K/S values, colour coordinate values and dye adherence.

Research limitations/implications

A new domain of room temperature dyeing technique has been introduced.

Originality/value

In the present study, different enzymes (protease, amylase, xylanase, pectinase, phytase) were used efficiently with Rubia dye by using simultaneous and two-step processes; both the processes were developed with an aim for conservation of time and energy, for the ease of industrial use. The highlights of the research are twofold: eco-friendly natural dyeing by using enzyme replacing metal mordant and room temperature dyeing, which is a completely new concept. Overall, the ease of use for industrial application. Rubia dye from Sri Lanka has been used in conjunction with different enzymes to show that metal mordanting can be easily replaced by the use of eco-friendly and biodegradable enzymes. The most attractive feature of this study is the low-temperature dyeing at 30-40°C. For any dyeing house, this process can be easily adapted on jigger, winch or even in continuous padding machine. Good fastness properties and dye adherence have been the other highlights of this study.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 46 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 September 2017

Ismahen Essaidi, Ahmed Snoussi, Hayet Ben Haj Koubaier, Hervé Casabianca and Nabiha Bouzouita

The paper aims to analyse the effect of acid hydrolysis on the chemical composition and the biological activities of Rubia tinctorum collected from the south of Tunisia. It…

Abstract

Purpose

The paper aims to analyse the effect of acid hydrolysis on the chemical composition and the biological activities of Rubia tinctorum collected from the south of Tunisia. It proposes to clarify the relationship between alizarin content and the antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of Rubia extract.

Design/methodology/approach

The paper opted for analytical tools (HPLC) and the in-vitro study of biological activities, namely, the antioxidant activity which is evaluated using the radical scavenging assay (ABTS) and ferric reducing power assay (FRAP); the antimicrobial activity is tested using the wells agar diffusion method.

Findings

The paper provides information about the positive effect of acid hydrolysis, namely, the enhancement of alizarin content in the extract which has increased its antioxidant and antimicrobial activities.

Originality/value

This paper fulfils an identified need to study the relationship between the chemical composition, biological activities and colour enhancement.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 46 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 2011

Omar Abdel-Kareem, Mahmoud A. Alawi and Mohammad S. Mubarak

The present study has employed a high performance liquid chromatographic method coupled with a diode array detector (HPLC-DAD) to identify the dyestuffs in textile samples…

Abstract

The present study has employed a high performance liquid chromatographic method coupled with a diode array detector (HPLC-DAD) to identify the dyestuffs in textile samples collected from the Coptic Museum in Cairo and the Museum of Jordanian Heritage. The results indicate that mixtures of organic dyes are used in dyeing these samples to produce different colours. The most dominantly identified colourants in samples collected from the Museum of Jordanian Heritage are laccaic acid, kermesic acid, munjistin and indigotin. The most dominantly identified dyestuffs are lac dye (Kerria lacca, Kerr), kermes (Kermes vermilio), madder (Rubia) species and indigoid dye source, either indigo (Indigofera species) or woad (Isatis tinctoria L.). These results confirm the historical information in the Museum of Jordanian Heritage in that the tested textile objects date back to the end of the 19th century or the beginning of the 20th century. The most dominantly identified colourants in samples collected from the Coptic Museum are alizarin, purpurin, and indigotin. The most dominantly identified dyestuffs are madder and indigotin. Based on this investigation, it is concluded that the tested dyed samples collected from the Coptic Museum belong to the 6-7th centuries. This conclusion is in agreement with the initial dating of samples according to the style of the decorations.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 15 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 2015

Prof. Asim Kumar Roy Choudhury and Mr. Suman Mitra

Commercial natural dyes are quite costly as manufacturers are to follow multi-step extraction and purification procedures for standardisation purposes. Upon cost comparison, they…

Abstract

Commercial natural dyes are quite costly as manufacturers are to follow multi-step extraction and purification procedures for standardisation purposes. Upon cost comparison, they lose in the market to synthetic dyes. However, in the handicraft sector, reproducibility may be of lesser importance against cost. In the present study, a domestic method of dyeing silk with the aqueous extract of raw plant/tree components (flower, leave, bark and root) by using a natural mordant and alum will be described. Good dyebath exhaustion and washing and light fastness are observed for some of the natural colouring matters.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 19 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 September 2016

Priti B. Tayade and Ravindra V. Adivarekar

In nature, thousands of different colours and shades exist. Basic set of dyes, namely, yellow, red, blue and green are necessary for a complete colour gamut. Creating a complete…

Abstract

Purpose

In nature, thousands of different colours and shades exist. Basic set of dyes, namely, yellow, red, blue and green are necessary for a complete colour gamut. Creating a complete gamut with natural dyes with one common extraction and application procedure is not exploited hitherto. The paper aims to discuss this issue.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, an attempt was made to create a complete colour gamut with easily available natural dyes with one common extraction and application procedure.

Findings

Silk fabrics were dyed using various natural dyes alone and in combination to yield various shades, namely, yellow, red, green, blue. Pre-mordanting of silk fabrics was carried out with mordants, namely, alum, ferrous sulphate, copper sulphate, stannous chloride, potassium dichromate followed by dyeing. The fastness properties and colour strength values of all the shades obtained were determined.

Originality/value

Creating a complete gamut with natural dyes with one common extraction and application procedure is not exploited hitherto.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 28 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 September 2019

Ashitosh B. Pawar, Kaustubh C. Patankar, Pallavi Madiwale and Ravindra Adivarekar

The purpose of this paper is to highlight the one bath dyeing method for polyester/wool (PES/Wo) blend fabric with two different semi-synthetic azo dyes developed by chemically…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to highlight the one bath dyeing method for polyester/wool (PES/Wo) blend fabric with two different semi-synthetic azo dyes developed by chemically modifying the outer skin of Allium cepa.

Design/Methodology/Approach

Chemical modification is the most heartening way to impart improved properties to natural sources. Two different primary amines were coupled with the Allium cepa skin extract by a diazo coupling reaction. Synthesised dyes were characterized for their percentage yield, solubility tests, melting point, particle size analysis as well as FTIR spectroscopy and UV-Visible analysis. One bath dyeing methodology was used for application of synthesized dyes on PES/Wo blend fabric. Dyeing was performed at boil without any additional auxiliary and further percentage dye exhaustion was evaluated.

Findings

Dyeing yielded solid shade on PES/Wo blend fabric with satisfactory levelness in dyeing. The efficacy of synthesized dyes for dyeing of PES/Wo fabric was studied by wash, rub, light and sublimation fastness properties, which are in good agreement with commercial requirements. The antimicrobial activity of the synthesized dyes shows excellent activity in dye powder form (AATCC 147 test method) as well as on dyed fabrics (AATCC 100 test method).

Originality/Value

Present research work is a first successful attempt to dye PES/Wo blend fabric with semi-synthetic azo dyes in single bath at boil. Such approach facilitates minimum consumption of energy, cost and time.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 48 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 February 2023

Padma S. Vankar and Archana Gangwar

The purpose of this study is to check the effectivity of plasma in the natural dyeing of polyester fabric using four natural dyes – Turkey red, Lac, Turmeric and Catechu using…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to check the effectivity of plasma in the natural dyeing of polyester fabric using four natural dyes – Turkey red, Lac, Turmeric and Catechu using plasma and alum mordant. The surface modification on the polyester fabric by plasma along with the use of benign mordant alum is studied. The enhancement of dyeability in polyester fabric with natural dyes is the main focus. Due to surface modification, the wettability increases, which leads to better dye uptake. Better dye uptake and better dye adherence are the main objectives.

Design/methodology/approach

Plasma-mediated natural dyeing is the main design of this research work. The effect of plasma treatment on surface modification of synthetic fabric polyester and its subsequent effects on their dyeing with different natural dyes, namely, Turkey red, Lac, Turmeric and Catechu are studied. The dyeability was further enhanced by the use of alum as mordant. The main focus is on the betterment of natural dyeing of polyester fabric using sustainable natural dyes resources for dyeing and to reduce wastewater contamination from the usage of toxic additive chemicals for cleaner production.

Findings

Plasma-mediated and alum-mordanted dyeing method facilitated very good dyeability of all the four natural dyes, namely, Turkey red, Lac, Turmeric and Catechu. Color strength (K/S) values and fastness properties of plasma-treated samples were far better than untreated samples. The synergistic effect of plasma and alum mordanting has made natural dyeing of polyester very easy with very good fastness results. Natural dyeing of polyester after 2 min of plasma treatment showed excellent and desirable results. The process is also easy to be adapted by industries.

Research limitations/implications

As polyester is hydrophobic, natural dyeing of polyester fabric is not very easy, but with plasma-mediated natural dyeing, it becomes a very facile dyeing method; thus, there are no limitations. Use of plasma has reduced the need for any chemical additives which are usually added during the dyeing process.

Practical implications

This process of natural dyeing of polyester fabric can be scaled up to industrial dyeing with natural dyes. Plasma pretreatment of the fabric followed by premordanting with alum has facilitated the natural dyeing well.

Social implications

Use of plasma in place of chemical modifiers can be a green and environmentally friendly approach for sustainable coloration of polyester fabric, providing a clean wet processing for textiles dyeing.

Originality/value

The synergistic effect of plasma-mediated and alum-mordanted natural dyeing of polyester has not been attempted by any researcher. To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is for the first time that pretreatment with atmospheric plasma followed by alum mordanting of polyester fabric has shown very good dye uptake and fastness properties as the dye molecules could penetrate well after 2 min of the plasma treatment.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 13 December 2022

Chau Thi Ngoc Pham, Hung Ngoc Phan, Thao Thanh Hoang, Tien Thi Thuy Dao and Huong Mai Bui

The health and environmental hazards associated with synthetic dyes have led to a revival of natural dyes that are non-toxic, environmentally benign and coupled with various…

1136

Abstract

Purpose

The health and environmental hazards associated with synthetic dyes have led to a revival of natural dyes that are non-toxic, environmentally benign and coupled with various functions. The study aims to investigate and develop the potentiality of a popular herb called Chromolaena odorata (C. odorata) as a sustainable and stable dyestuff in textiles.

Design/methodology/approach

Natural colorant extracted from C. odorata leaves is used to dye the worsted fabric, which is one of the premier end-use of wool in fashion, via the padding method associated with pre-, simultaneous and post-mordanting with chitosan, tannic acid and copper sulfate pentahydrate. The effects of extraction, dyeing and mordanting processes on fabric’s color strength K/S and color difference ΔECMC are investigated via International Commission on Illumination’s L*a*b* color space, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscope, color fastness to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light.

Findings

The results obtained indicate extraction with ethanol 90% with a solid/liquid ratio of 1:5 within 1 h, and coloration with a liquor ratio of 1:5 (pH 5) within 2 h under padding pressure of 0.3 MPa are the most effective for coloring worsted fabric.

Practical implications

The C. odorata’s application as a highly effective dyestuff possessing good colorimetric effectiveness has expanded this herb's economic potential, contributing partly to economic growth and adding value to wool in global supply chain.

Originality/value

C. odorata dyestuff has prevailed over other natural colorants because of its impressive color fastness against washing, rubbing, perspiration and especially color stability for pH change.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 January 2016

E. Dehnavi, A. Shams-Nateri and H. Khalili

This paper aims to focus on the absorption behaviour of single and binary mixtures of natural dyes on wool. Natural dyes are multi-components with different structures and…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to focus on the absorption behaviour of single and binary mixtures of natural dyes on wool. Natural dyes are multi-components with different structures and properties.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, the absorption behaviour of single and binary mixtures of natural dyes was investigated on wool fibre. Study was conducted via some natural dyes, including pomegranate peel as a yellow natural dye with tannin, weld as a yellow natural dye without tannin and madder as a red natural dye without tannin. Applied mordant was alum, which was used in the pre-mordant method. Different shades were obtained by varying dye concentration in the binary mixture. The effect of tannin on absorption behaviour of binary mixture of natural dyes was investigated by spectral reflectance and colour parameters of dyed samples measurements.

Findings

Obtained results indicate that tannin affects the absorption behaviour of natural dyes in binary mixtures.

Practical implications

Because natural dyes are multi-components with different structure and properties, the study of compatibility and absorption behaviour of natural dyes in binary mixture on wool is important in applied researches.

Originality/value

The study of compatibility and absorption behaviour of binary mixture of natural dyes on wool is novel.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 45 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 June 2017

Patricia M. Riddell

In the last 10 to 15 years, research studies have focused on the effects of differences across generations that result in differences in cultural expectations within the workplace…

1153

Abstract

Purpose

In the last 10 to 15 years, research studies have focused on the effects of differences across generations that result in differences in cultural expectations within the workplace (e.g. Arsenault, 2004). Different generations create shared attitudes to work and preferences for types of work which result in differences in their perception of, for instance, what makes a good leader or even the value of leadership within an organisation. While these generational differences are real, these analyses do not take into account differences that might result from the age, and therefore developmental stage, of the populations being assessed. The neuroscience literature clearly shows that there are maturational differences in the brain which are not complete until late teens to early 20s. It is therefore possible that some of the generational differences result from differences in processing ability resulting from structural immaturities in the brain. In particular, there are differences in the rate of maturation of areas of the brain related to reward sensitivity, threat sensitivity and regulation of behaviour which result in substantial differences in behaviour from adolescence through into adulthood. The purpose of this paper is to consider the effect of maturational changes in the brain on behaviours related to leadership and to outline ways in which these changes can be addressed in order to encourage young people to develop as leaders. This will include providing suitable experiences of leadership to encourage the faster development of the neural structures which underlie these capabilities.

Design/methodology/approach

Recent advances in neural imaging have resulted in a substantial increase in research investigating the development of the brain during adolescence. A literature review was conducted to find adolescent research that investigated decision making and risk taking. The data obtained were integrated and implications for leadership were drawn from an analysis of the resulting theoretical framework.

Findings

The research into decision-making processes in adolescents and younger adults points to a number of ways in which these differ from mature decision making. Younger people: (find it harder to inhibit behaviours) are more responsive to immediate reward; are more optimistic about the outcome of risky decisions; and are more responsive to social rewards (Jones et al., 2014). They also lack the experiences that adults use to distil the gist of a situation and therefore are more dependent on conscious, cost-benefit analysis of the outcome of decisions.

Practical implications

An understanding of the differences between adult and adolescent decision making points to the role of experience as a key factor in mature decision making. If adolescents are to make mature decisions, they have to be offered suitable challenges in safe environments from which they can gain expertise in leadership decision making. These can be designed to account for differences in sensitivity to reward and punishment in this group. In addition, young adults would benefit from learning the gist interpretations that have been extracted from situations by experienced leaders. This suggests that adolescents and adults would benefit from simulated leadership experiences and leadership mentoring.

Social implications

The Baby Boomer generation who currently hold many of the leadership positions in organisations are coming close to requirement. They will have to be replaced by members of Generation X and the Millennial Generation resulting in potentially younger leaders. In addition, flatter organisational structures that are currently being implemented in many organisations will require leadership at many more levels. Thus, we need to be able to develop leadership skills in a more diverse and younger section of society. Understanding how the brain develops can help us to design appropriate leadership experiences and training for this upcoming generation of young leaders.

Originality/value

Recent advances in neuroscience of adolescence provide a unique opportunity to bring new evidence to bear on our understanding of decision making in young adults. This provides practical implications for how to develop leadership within this group and to support them as they gain experience in this domain. The evidence also points to a benefit for the increased risk taking seen in adolescence since this leads to greater motivation to try new, and potentially risky, ventures. Through a better understanding of the differences in decision making, we can both help adolescents to develop more mature decision making faster while benefitting from the optimism of youth.

Details

Leadership & Organization Development Journal, vol. 38 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0143-7739

Keywords

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