Search results
1 – 10 of 10Hung Ngoc Phan and Satoko Okubayashi
Dehydrated bacterial cellulose’s (BC) intrinsic rigidity constrains applicability across textiles, leather, health care and other sectors. This study aims to yield a novel BC…
Abstract
Purpose
Dehydrated bacterial cellulose’s (BC) intrinsic rigidity constrains applicability across textiles, leather, health care and other sectors. This study aims to yield a novel BC modification method using glycerol and succinic acid with catalyst and heat, applied via an industrially scalable padding method to tackle BC’s stiffness drawbacks and enhance BC properties.
Design/methodology/approach
Fabric-like BC is generated via mechanical dehydration and then finished by using padding method with glycerol, succinic acid, catalyst and heat. Comprehensive material characterizations, including international testing standards for stiffness, bending properties (cantilever method), tensile properties, moisture vapor transmission rate, moisture content and regain, washing, thermal gravimetric analysis, derivative thermogravimetry, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy and colorimetric measurement, are used.
Findings
The combination of BC/glycerol/succinic acid dramatically enhanced porous structure, elongation (27.40 ± 6.39%), flexibility (flexural rigidity of 21.46 ± 4.01 µN m; bending modulus of 97.45 ± 18.20 MPa) and moisture management (moisture vapor transmission rate of 961.07 ± 86.16 g/m2/24 h; moisture content of 27.43 ± 2.50%; and moisture regain of 37.94 ± 4.73%). This softening process modified the thermal stability of BC. Besides, this study alleviated the drawbacks for washing (five cycles) of BC and glycerol caused by the ineffective affinity between glycerol and cellulose by adding succinic acid with catalyst and heat.
Originality/value
The study yields an effective padding process for BC softening and a unique modified BC to contribute added value to textile and leather industries as a sustainable alternative to existing materials and a premise for future research on BC functionalization by using doable technologies in mass production as padding.
Details
Keywords
Hung Ngoc Phan, Huong Mai Bui and Nguyen Khanh Vu
Bacterial cellulose (BC) is an ideal alternative filtering material. However, current functionalization approaches for BC have not been fully discovered industrially as well as…
Abstract
Purpose
Bacterial cellulose (BC) is an ideal alternative filtering material. However, current functionalization approaches for BC have not been fully discovered industrially as well as academically applying textile processing. This study aims to create a sustainable fabric-like membrane made of BC/activated carbon (AC) for applications in filtration using textile padding method, to protect people from respiratory pandemics.
Design/methodology/approach
Fabric-like BC is first mechanically dehydrated then AC is loaded via a textile padding step. The finishing efficacy, properties of fabric-like BC/AC and NaOH pretreatment are analyzed and characterized by scanning electron microscope (SEM), field emission scanning electron microscope (FE SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD), CIELab color space, color strength (K/S), nitrogen adsorption-desorption isotherm including Brunauer–Emmett–Teller (BET) specific surface area and Barrett–Joyner–Halenda (BJH) pore size and volume.
Findings
This research results in a fabric-like BC/AC with pore diameters of 3.407 ± 0.310 nm, specific surface area of 115.28 m2/g and an efficient scalable padding process, which uses 8 times less amount of chemical and nearly 30 times shorter treating duration than conventional methods.
Practical implications
Our globe is now consuming an alarming amount of non-degradable disposable masks resulting in massive trash buildup as a future environmental problem. Besides, current disposable masks requiring a significant upfront technological investment have posed challenges in human protection from respiratory diseases, especially for countries with limited conditions. By combining a sustainable material (BC) with popular padding method of textile industry, the fabric-like BC/AC will offer sustainable and practical values for both humankind and nature.
Originality/value
This research has offered an effective padding process to functionalize BC, and a unique fabric-like BC/AC membrane for filtration applications.
Details
Keywords
Fareha Asim, Farhana Naeem and Shenela Naqvi
Face masks are the most recommended precautionary measure since the emergence of SARS-CoV-2 since 2020 and the most useful PPE against this virus and its variants so far. This…
Abstract
Purpose
Face masks are the most recommended precautionary measure since the emergence of SARS-CoV-2 since 2020 and the most useful PPE against this virus and its variants so far. This study aims to develop reusable and biodegradable mask from 100% regenerated bamboo or/and its blend. Selection of natural and regenerated textile materials is to minimize generation of solid waste. This attempt will eventually protect our earth by minimizing or better discontinuing the production of the disposable nonbiodegradable face masks available worldwide.
Design/methodology/approach
Hundred percent regenerated bamboo and 50:50 bamboo:cotton were selected to knit plain and interlock fabrics for manufacturing of reusable sustainable face masks. A 23 32-mixed-level factorial design was applied to study the effect of liquor ratio and temperatures, fabric structure, blend ratios and finishes at three different levels. Model 23 32 has two factors (liquor ratio and temperatures) at three levels and three factors (fabric structure, blend ratios and type of finish) at two levels. Knitted fabrics were then applied with antibacterial finishes; sanitized T99-19 and sanitized T27-22, separately at three different liquor ratios (1:10, 1:12 and 1:15) and temperatures (45, 55 and 65 °C) via exhaust method. After completing processing, fabric thickness, pilling resistance, dimensional stability, bursting strength, Berger whiteness index, air permeability and antibacterial properties of each trial were evaluated using standard test procedures.
Findings
Selected fabrics treated either by sanitized T27 or sanitized T99 in a liquor ratio of 1:15 against 65 °C, showed excellent bacteriostatic/bactericidal activity. However, 100% regenerated bamboo interlock knitted fabric treated with sanitized T99 in a liquor ratio of 1:15 at 65 °C has the most desired values of dimensional stability, pilling resistance, Berger whiteness, fabric thickness, air permeability and bursting strength which made it the best for the manufacturing of the masks. Reusable mask is comprised of three layers in which the first and the third layers were of selected 100% regenerated bamboo fabric while a PM2.5 filter was inserted in between. Bacterial filtration efficiency, particle filtration efficiency, biocompatibility and microbial cleanliness will be evaluated in future, to compare the performance of proposed reusable and biodegradable face mask with N95 masks and other fabric masks available commercially.
Originality/value
This study resulted in a development of reusable eco-friendly facemask which was not attempted by the preceding investigations. Outcomes of this work pave the way for a greener and safer earth by using easily obtainable regenerated bamboo fabrics, antibacterial finishes and knitted structures.
Details
Keywords
Lucie Počinková, Claudia E. Henninger, Aurelie Le Normand and Marta Blazquez Cano
This paper aims to explore consumers’ voluntary disposition practices through swapping events organised by community-based enterprises. The paper investigates consumers’…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to explore consumers’ voluntary disposition practices through swapping events organised by community-based enterprises. The paper investigates consumers’ decision-making strategies and factors affecting voluntary clothing disposition via public swapping events across the UK.
Design/methodology/approach
This paper investigates UK swapping events, through conducting 18 semi-structured consumer interviews. Data were transcribed and analysed using the seven-step guide proposed by Easterby-Smith et al. (2018).
Findings
Findings indicate that within community-based enterprises an implicit social contract emerges between the enterprises and swappers which has an influence on the clothing brought to swaps, thereby impacting the competence and meaning elements of practice. This is linked to peer-pressure susceptibility which affects consumers’ participation in swapping. The findings further reveal an emerging consumer strategy aiding decision-making process regarding items brought to swaps. The use of a particular strategy is found to be linked with the respective level of swapping expertise.
Research limitations/implications
Though the interviews provide a rich narrative, this paper is limited by its sample size meaning data cannot be generalised. Although the data is limited by singular country perspective, research participants were recruited from across the UK, thus, offering a broad picture of the swapping practice.
Originality/value
This paper contributes to and advances an understanding of swapping events organised by community-based enterprises. The theory of social practice lens offers a unique viewpoint on the elements influencing the consumers’ decision-making process with reference to voluntary disposition.
Details
Keywords
Wiah Wardiningsih, Farhan Aqil Syauqi Pradanta, Ryan Rudy, Resty Mayseptheny Hernawati and Doni Sugiyana
The purpose of this study is to analyse the characteristics of cellulose fibres derived from the pseudo-stems of Curcuma longa and to evaluate the properties of non-woven fabric…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to analyse the characteristics of cellulose fibres derived from the pseudo-stems of Curcuma longa and to evaluate the properties of non-woven fabric produced using these fibres.
Design/methodology/approach
The fibres were extracted via a decortication method. The acquired intrinsic qualities of the fibres were used to assess the feasibility of using them in textile applications. The thermal bonding approach was used for the development of the non-woven fabric, using a hot press machine with low-melt polyester fibre as a binder.
Findings
The mean length of Curcuma longa fibres was determined to be 52.73 cm, with a fineness value of 4.00 tex. The fibres exhibited an uneven cross-sectional morphology, characterized by a diverse range of oval-shaped lumens. The fibre exhibited a tenacity of 1.45 g/denier and an elongation value of 4.30%. The fibres possessed a moisture regain value of 11.30%. The experimental non-woven fabrics had consistent weight and thickness, while exhibiting different properties in terms of tensile strength and air permeability, with Fabric C having the highest tensile strength and the lowest air permeability value.
Originality/value
The features of Curcuma longa fibre, obtained with the decortication process, exhibited suitability for textile applications. Three experimental non-woven fabrics comprising different compositions of Curcuma longa fibre and low-melt polyester fibre were produced. The tensile strength and air permeability properties of these fabrics were influenced by the composition of the fibres.
Details
Keywords
Vita Sarasi, Ina Primiana, Budi Harsanto and Yayan Satyakti
As a leading sector that has entered the international market, the Indonesian Textile and Apparel (T&A) industry has begun to focus on sustainability issues; however, this study…
Abstract
Purpose
As a leading sector that has entered the international market, the Indonesian Textile and Apparel (T&A) industry has begun to focus on sustainability issues; however, this study is still limited. This paper aims to conduct a systematic review and explore future research opportunities in developing sustainable supply chain management (SSCM) in the T&A industry in Indonesia, particularly in the small- and medium-sized enterprise (SME) sector.
Design/methodology/approach
A systematic literature review (SLR) through five academic databases, including Science Direct, IEEE Explore, Scopus, Google Scholar and Web of Science, was conducted and followed by a content analysis of the selected papers.
Findings
Directions for future research include designing a standardized and sustainable measurement of SSCM performance; analyzing SSCM practices in T&A SMEs through the concept of sustainable entrepreneurs; and exploring the application of a circular economy in the T&A industry, known as circular fashion, which is preferred by the community, affordable and environmentally friendly.
Research limitations/implications
This research only used secondary data. In-depth interviews with relevant experts should also be conducted to get a more comprehensive picture of this issue.
Originality/value
To the best of the author’s knowledge, this is the first SLR analyzing the implementation of SSCM in the T&A industry in Indonesia.
Details
Keywords
M.K.P. Naik, Prabhas Bhardwaj and Vinaytosh Mishra
This paper aims to identify and analyze the challenges for the Varanasi handloom industry after the COVID pandemic by considering their impact on different sections of the weavers…
Abstract
Purpose
This paper aims to identify and analyze the challenges for the Varanasi handloom industry after the COVID pandemic by considering their impact on different sections of the weavers and subsequently suggest the best possible solution for the same.
Design/methodology/approach
A combined approach of expert opinion and in-depth literature reviews are used to identify the challenges, and a multicriteria decision-making tool is used to rank the challenges for the type of weaver.
Findings
This research provides an elaborated view of the problems faced by the handloom industry after the COVID pandemic and suggests that the success of the handloom business is subjected to the eradication of a wide number of challenges according to the type of weaver.
Practical implications
The findings of this research will help the policymakers to make and align their policies and strategies for the upliftment of the Varanasi handloom industry efficiently and effectively.
Originality/value
To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this is the first kind of study that focuses on identifying and prioritizing the barriers affecting the success of the Varanasi handloom industry after the COVID pandemic. Furthermore, the uniqueness of this research lies in its ability to study all three independent sections of the handloom industry, having different capabilities and limitations.
Details
Keywords
Amit Vishwakarma, Deepti Mehrotra, Ritu Agrahari, Manjeet Kharub, Sumit Gupta and Sandeep Jagtap
The apparel and textile sector poses a significant environmental challenge due to its substantial contribution to pollution in the form of air, water and soil pollution. To combat…
Abstract
Purpose
The apparel and textile sector poses a significant environmental challenge due to its substantial contribution to pollution in the form of air, water and soil pollution. To combat these issues, the adoption of sustainable practices is essential. This study aims to identify and analyse the barriers that hinder the progress of sustainability in the apparel and textile industry. By consulting experts in the field, critical barriers were identified and given special attention.
Design/methodology/approach
To achieve the research objective, an integrated approach involving Interpretive Structural Modelling (ISM) and fuzzy MICMAC decision-making techniques was employed. The results were further validated through the Decision-Making Trial and Evaluation Laboratory (DEMATEL) method.
Findings
The findings highlight that barrier related to clothing disposal, inadequate adaptation to modern technology, challenges affecting sector efficiency and issues related to fashion design are crucial in influencing the remaining six barriers. Based on the outcomes of the DEMATEL method, a comprehensive cause-and-effect diagram was constructed to gain a deeper understanding of these challenges.
Practical implications
This research provides valuable insights for policymakers and stakeholders in the apparel and textile industry. It offers a strategic framework to address and overcome sustainability barriers, promoting the development of a more environmentally responsible and resilient sector.
Originality/value
The purpose of this research is to conduct an in-depth investigation of the barriers apparel and textile sectors. It is feasible that both the management team and the medical experts who provide direct patient care could benefit from this research.
Details
Keywords
Hammama Irfan, Tahreem Beg, Farhana Naeem, Mohammad Irfan, Shenela Naqvi and Yang Shengyuan
The purpose of this study is to highlight the threats related to the utilization of synthetic fibers. Volatile organic compounds, particulates and acid gases are released during…
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to highlight the threats related to the utilization of synthetic fibers. Volatile organic compounds, particulates and acid gases are released during the production of polyester and other synthetic textiles. Polyester is problematic solid waste material as it takes centuries to break down and hence causes microplastic pollution. Biodegradable synthetic solutions for the replacement of polyester are a sustainable business marketing these days. The naNia fiber is the breakthrough product and it is claimed a biodegradable, compostable and toxin-free polymer.
Design/methodology/approach
In this research, fabric constructed of naNia fiber was dyed with the extract of naturally occurring Lawsonia inermis (henna) plant leaves. The henna dye was extracted in water and ethanol using different methods, and the better extract was selected by the evaluation of ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy and phytochemical analysis. Henna with ethanol extract showed more desirable results hence it was selected to dye naNia fabric. To improve dyeability, premordanting, simultaneous mordanting and postmordanting were done using chitosan, fresh lemon extract and tannic acid, respectively. The dyed fabric samples were subjected to color strength analysis and multiple colorfastness tests.
Findings
The colorfastness test has shown good to excellent results. Scanning electron microscope analysis had also shown the attachment of dye molecules to the filaments. This study revealed that henna dye is appropriate to color naNia fiber even without the aid of a mordant.
Originality/value
For the first time, toxicant-free, biodegradable polyester (naNia) is successfully dyed with sustainable and naturally available dyes and mordants.
Details
Keywords
Tuna Uysaler, Pelin Altay and Gülay Özcan
In the denim industry, enzyme washing and its combination with stone washing are generally used to get the desired worn-out look. However, these conventional methods include high…
Abstract
Purpose
In the denim industry, enzyme washing and its combination with stone washing are generally used to get the desired worn-out look. However, these conventional methods include high water, energy and time consumption. Nowadays, laser fading, which is a computer-controlled, dry, ecological finishing method, is preferred in the denim fading process. The purpose of this study is to observe the effects of chemical pretreatment applications on laser-faded denim fabric in terms of color and mechanical properties. To eliminate the enzyme washing process in denim fading and to minimize the disadvantages of laser fading, such as decreased mechanical properties and increased fabric yellowness, various chemical pretreatment applications were applied to the denim fabric before laser fading, followed by simple rinsing instead of enzyme washing.
Design/methodology/approach
Two different indigo-dyed, organic cotton denim fabrics with different unit weights were exposed to pretreatment processes and then laser treatment, followed by simple rinsing. Polysilicic acid, boric acid, borax and bicarbonate were used for pretreatment processes, and laser treatment was carried out under optimized laser parameters (40 dpi resolution and 300 µs pixel time). Tensile strength was tested, and color values (CIE L*, a*, b*, ΔE*, C* and h), color yield (K/S), yellowness and whiteness indexes were measured to identify the color differences.
Findings
Before laser fading, 30 g/L and 40 g/L polysilicic acid pretreatments for sulfur-indigo-dyed fabric and a mixture of 10 g/L boric acid and 10 g/L borax pretreatments for the fabric only indigo-dyed were recommended for the laser fading with sufficient mechanical properties and good color values.
Originality/value
With the chemical pretreatments defined in this study, it was possible to reduce yellowness and maintain the mechanical properties after laser fading, thus minimizing the disadvantages of laser treatment and also eliminating enzyme washing.
Details