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Article
Publication date: 2 February 2024

Eunice Benyah, Richard Acquaye and Raphael Kanyire Seidu

The innovativeness of dressmakers is a concern to respondents to satisfy their clothing needs. The purpose of this study is to determine the criteria that respondents use to judge…

Abstract

Purpose

The innovativeness of dressmakers is a concern to respondents to satisfy their clothing needs. The purpose of this study is to determine the criteria that respondents use to judge the quality of clothing and its influences on the innovative ability of dressmakers in the clothing manufacturing industries.

Design/methodology/approach

Three hundred and ninety-seven (397) respondents in the Takoradi Metropolis of Ghana filled out a questionnaire, and the results were used to compile data for the study. The sample size was calculated using Miller and Brewer formula. The data was analysed using structural equational modelling with the SmartPLS v.4 software.

Findings

The results showed that respondents are very interested in the calibre of clothing produced by their dressmakers. However, the study revealed that when evaluating the quality of a garment, respondents do not simply accept what has been sewn for them but also consider the performance, appearance, fit and shape of the garment. Findings revealed that there was a significant relationship between garment appearance quality (t = 2.605; p < 0.05), garment performance quality (t = 3.915; p < 0.05), garment shape quality (t = 6.248; p <0.05) and fashion innovations. Subsequently, the evaluation of garment fit quality by respondents revealed it does not bring about innovations (t = 1.310; p > 0.05).

Practical implications

The continuous evaluation of custom-made clothing from customers will go a long way towards highlighting the relative criteria they use to evaluate the innovation of dressmakers. This will help improve the creativity of the dressmakers since such feedback will help them understand and innovate their production skills to meet the preferences of customers.

Originality/value

The present study provides an in-depth understanding of how garment quality evaluation by customers influences the innovation of dressmakers in Takoradi, Ghana. The constructs were developed for the study to capture the appropriate data from customers for the study. This presents an evaluation criterion on four garment quality variables imperative for use or modification by other studies.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 29 March 2024

Xingwen Wu, Zhenxian Zhang, Wubin Cai, Ningrui Yang, Xuesong Jin, Ping Wang, Zefeng Wen, Maoru Chi, Shuling Liang and Yunhua Huang

This review aims to give a critical view of the wheel/rail high frequency vibration-induced vibration fatigue in railway bogie.

Abstract

Purpose

This review aims to give a critical view of the wheel/rail high frequency vibration-induced vibration fatigue in railway bogie.

Design/methodology/approach

Vibration fatigue of railway bogie arising from the wheel/rail high frequency vibration has become the main concern of railway operators. Previous reviews usually focused on the formation mechanism of wheel/rail high frequency vibration. This paper thus gives a critical review of the vibration fatigue of railway bogie owing to the short-pitch irregularities-induced high frequency vibration, including a brief introduction of short-pitch irregularities, associated high frequency vibration in railway bogie, typical vibration fatigue failure cases of railway bogie and methodologies used for the assessment of vibration fatigue and research gaps.

Findings

The results showed that the resulting excitation frequencies of short-pitch irregularity vary substantially due to different track types and formation mechanisms. The axle box-mounted components are much more vulnerable to vibration fatigue compared with other components. The wheel polygonal wear and rail corrugation-induced high frequency vibration is the main driving force of fatigue failure, and the fatigue crack usually initiates from the defect of the weld seam. Vibration spectrum for attachments of railway bogie defined in the standard underestimates the vibration level arising from the short-pitch irregularities. The current investigations on vibration fatigue mainly focus on the methods to improve the accuracy of fatigue damage assessment, and a systematical design method for vibration fatigue remains a huge gap to improve the survival probability when the rail vehicle is subjected to vibration fatigue.

Originality/value

The research can facilitate the development of a new methodology to improve the fatigue life of railway vehicles when subjected to wheel/rail high frequency vibration.

Details

Railway Sciences, vol. 3 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 2755-0907

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 4 April 2024

Satyaveer Singh, N. Yuvaraj and Reeta Wattal

The criteria importance through intercriteria correlation (CRITIC) and range of value (ROV) combined methods were used to determine a single index for all multiple responses.

Abstract

Purpose

The criteria importance through intercriteria correlation (CRITIC) and range of value (ROV) combined methods were used to determine a single index for all multiple responses.

Design/methodology/approach

This paper used cold metal transfer (CMT) and pulse metal-inert gas (MIG) welding processes to study the weld-on-bead geometry of AA2099-T86 alloy. This study used Taguchi's approach to find the optimal setting of the input welding parameters. The welding current, welding speed and contact-tip-to workpiece distance were the input welding parameters for finding the output responses, i.e. weld penetration, dilution and heat input. The L9 orthogonal array of Taguchi's approach was used to find out the optimal setting of the input parameters.

Findings

The optimal input welding parameters were determined with combined output responses. The predicted optimum welding input parameters were validated through confirmation tests. Analysis of variance showed that welding speed is the most influential factor in determining the weld bead geometry of the CMT and pulse MIG welding techniques.

Originality/value

The heat input and weld bead geometry are compared in both welding processes. The CMT welding samples show superior defect-free weld beads than pulse MIG welding due to lesser heat input and lesser dilution.

Details

Multidiscipline Modeling in Materials and Structures, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1573-6105

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 9 January 2024

Shengfu Xue, Zhengping He, Bingzhi Chen and Jianxin Xu

This study investigates the fitting techniques for notch fatigue curves, seeking a more reliable method to predict the lifespan of welded structures.

Abstract

Purpose

This study investigates the fitting techniques for notch fatigue curves, seeking a more reliable method to predict the lifespan of welded structures.

Design/methodology/approach

Building on the fatigue test results of butt and cruciform joints, this research delves into the selection of fitting methods for the notch fatigue curve of welded joints. Both empirical formula and finite element methods (FEMs) were employed to assess the notch stress concentration factor at the toe and root of the two types of welded joints. Considering the mean stress correction and weld misalignment coefficients, the notch fatigue life curves were established using both direct and indirect methods.

Findings

An engineering example was employed to discern the differences between the direct and indirect approaches. The findings highlight the enhanced reliability of the indirect method for fitting the fatigue life curve.

Originality/value

While the notch stress approach is extensively adopted due to its accurate prediction of component fatigue life, most scholars have overlooked the importance of its curve fitting methods. Existing literature scantily addresses the establishment of these curves. This paper offers a focused examination of fatigue curve fitting techniques, delivering valuable perspectives on method selection.

Details

International Journal of Structural Integrity, vol. 15 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1757-9864

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 March 2024

Gang Yu, Zhiqiang Li, Ruochen Zeng, Yucong Jin, Min Hu and Vijayan Sugumaran

Accurate prediction of the structural condition of urban critical infrastructure is crucial for predictive maintenance. However, the existing prediction methods lack precision due…

46

Abstract

Purpose

Accurate prediction of the structural condition of urban critical infrastructure is crucial for predictive maintenance. However, the existing prediction methods lack precision due to limitations in utilizing heterogeneous sensing data and domain knowledge as well as insufficient generalizability resulting from limited data samples. This paper integrates implicit and qualitative expert knowledge into quantifiable values in tunnel condition assessment and proposes a tunnel structure prediction algorithm that augments a state-of-the-art attention-based long short-term memory (LSTM) model with expert rating knowledge to achieve robust prediction results to reasonably allocate maintenance resources.

Design/methodology/approach

Through formalizing domain experts' knowledge into quantitative tunnel condition index (TCI) with analytic hierarchy process (AHP), a fusion approach using sequence smoothing and sliding time window techniques is applied to the TCI and time-series sensing data. By incorporating both sensing data and expert ratings, an attention-based LSTM model is developed to improve prediction accuracy and reduce the uncertainty of structural influencing factors.

Findings

The empirical experiment in Dalian Road Tunnel in Shanghai, China showcases the effectiveness of the proposed method, which can comprehensively evaluate the tunnel structure condition and significantly improve prediction performance.

Originality/value

This study proposes a novel structure condition prediction algorithm that augments a state-of-the-art attention-based LSTM model with expert rating knowledge for robust prediction of structure condition of complex projects.

Details

Engineering, Construction and Architectural Management, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0969-9988

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 19 April 2024

Knut S. Vikør

While most West European nations were formed around pre-existing entities that could be called “countries” before the modern age, this was not the case in the Middle East. Some…

Abstract

While most West European nations were formed around pre-existing entities that could be called “countries” before the modern age, this was not the case in the Middle East. Some entities, like Egypt, did have a clear political and cultural identity before colonialism, others, like Algeria, did not. This chapter discusses the four states of the Maghreb: Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia and Libya, through the perspective of “country creation” going into and coming out of colonial rule. We can see here two “models” of fairly similar types of historical development, one showing a gradual process through a protectorate period to relatively stable modern nations, another through violent conquest and direct colonization ending in violent liberation and military and wealthy but fragile states. The article asks whether these models for the history of country creation and the presence or absence of pre-colonial identities can help explain the modern history and nature of these states in the Arab Spring and the years thereafter. Then, a more tentative attempt is made to apply these models to two countries of the Arab east, Syria and Iraq. While local variations ensure that no model can be transferred directly, it can show the importance of studying the historical factors that go into the transition from geographical region to a country with people that can form the basis of a nation.

Details

A Comparative Historical and Typological Approach to the Middle Eastern State System
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-83753-122-6

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 April 2024

Rilwan Kayode Apalowo, Mohamad Aizat Abas, Fakhrozi Che Ani, Muhamed Abdul Fatah Muhamed Mukhtar and Mohamad Riduwan Ramli

This study aims to investigate the thermal fracture mechanism of moisture-preconditioned SAC305 ball grid array (BGA) solder joints subjected to multiple reflow and thermal…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to investigate the thermal fracture mechanism of moisture-preconditioned SAC305 ball grid array (BGA) solder joints subjected to multiple reflow and thermal cycling.

Design/methodology/approach

The BGA package samples are subjected to JEDEC Level 1 accelerated moisture treatment (85 °C/85%RH/168 h) with five times reflow at 270 °C. This is followed by multiple thermal cycling from 0 °C to 100 °C for 40 min per cycle, per IPC-7351B standards. For fracture investigation, the cross-sections of the samples are examined and analysed using the dye-and-pry technique and backscattered scanning electron microscopy. The packages' microstructures are characterized using an energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy approach. Also, the package assembly is investigated using the Darveaux numerical simulation method.

Findings

The study found that critical strain density is exhibited at the component pad/solder interface of the solder joint located at the most distant point from the axes of symmetry of the package assembly. The fracture mechanism is a crack fracture formed at the solder's exterior edges and grows across the joint's transverse section. It was established that Au content in the formed intermetallic compound greatly impacts fracture growth in the solder joint interface, with a composition above 5 Wt.% Au regarded as an unsafe level for reliability. The elongation of the crack is aided by the brittle nature of the Au-Sn interface through which the crack propagates. It is inferred that refining the solder matrix elemental compound can strengthen and improve the reliability of solder joints.

Practical implications

Inspection lead time and additional manufacturing expenses spent on investigating reliability issues in BGA solder joints can be reduced using the study's findings on understanding the solder joint fracture mechanism.

Originality/value

Limited studies exist on the thermal fracture mechanism of moisture-preconditioned BGA solder joints exposed to both multiple reflow and thermal cycling. This study applied both numerical and experimental techniques to examine the reliability issue.

Details

Soldering & Surface Mount Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0954-0911

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 August 2023

Berihun Bizuneh and Tesfu Kifle

The main purpose of this paper is to identify, screen and prioritize customer requirements (CRs) for men’s denim jeans. Moreover, the effect of demographic factors on the primary…

Abstract

Purpose

The main purpose of this paper is to identify, screen and prioritize customer requirements (CRs) for men’s denim jeans. Moreover, the effect of demographic factors on the primary evaluation criteria has been examined.

Design/methodology/approach

The study was initiated by the growing complaints about denim jeans products of a local manufacturing company. First, 24 CRs were identified from the literature and customer complaints. Then, a survey was conducted to rate the identified CRs and solicit more CRs through closed-ended and open-ended questions, respectively. From the survey, 368 usable responses were collected while the participants were shopping in 14 local retail shops. After analyzing the data using factor analysis, univariate and multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA), and content analysis, the resulting 15 criteria were prioritized by experts’ pairwise comparisons employing the fuzzy analytic hierarchy process (AHP).

Findings

Factor analysis extracted six components (primary criteria) including design cues, pocket design, comfort, size and fit, fashionability, and extrinsic cues from the CRs included in the closed-ended questions. MANOVA showed that age and frequency of purchasing denim jeans significantly affected the primary criteria, while educational level and frequency of wearing denim jeans did not. The weights from the fuzzy AHP revealed that colour fastness, price, durability, fabric weight, workmanship, side pocket design and fit as the most important CRs. Moreover, consumers preferred regular fit, stitched round side pockets, patch back pockets and stretchable denim fabric.

Research limitations/implications

The limitations of the study are discussed in the body of the paper in Section 7.

Originality/value

The paper presents exploratory findings on denim jeans evaluation criteria in a developing country’s context. Moreover, the application of fuzzy AHP for prioritizing denim jeans’ CRs is unique.

Details

International Journal of Quality & Reliability Management, vol. 41 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0265-671X

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 25 May 2022

Rameesh Lakshan Bulathsinghala, Serosha Mandika Wijeyaratne, Sandun Fernando, Thantirige Sanath Siroshana Jayawardana, Vishvanath Uthpala Indrajith Senadhipathi Mudiyanselage and Samith Lakshan Sunilsantha Kankanamalage

The purpose of this paper is to develop a prototype of a wearable medical device in the form of a bandage with a real-time data monitoring platform, which can be used domestically…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to develop a prototype of a wearable medical device in the form of a bandage with a real-time data monitoring platform, which can be used domestically for diabetic patients to identify the possibility of foot ulceration at the early stage.

Design/methodology/approach

The prototype can measure blood volumetric change and temperature variation in the forefoot area simultaneously. The waveform extracted using a pulsatile-blood-flow signal was used to assess blood perfusion-related information, and hence, predict ischemic ulcers. The temperature difference between ulcerated and the reference was used to predict neuropathic ulcers. The medical device can be used as a bandage during the application wherein the sensory module is placed inside the hollow pocket of the bandage. A platform was developed through a mobile application where doctors can extract real-time information, and hence, determine the possibility of ulceration.

Findings

The height of the peaks in the pulsatile-blood-flow signal measured from the subject with foot ischemic ulcers is significantly less than that of the subject without ischemic ulcers. In the presence of ischemic ulcers, the captured waveform flattens. Therefore, the blood perfusion from arteries to the tissue of the forefoot is considerably low for the subject with ischemic ulcers. According to the temperature difference data measured over 25 consecutive days, the temperature difference of the subject with neuropathic ulcers occasionally exceeded the 4 °F range but mostly had higher values closer to the 4 °F range. However, the temperature difference of the subject who had no complications of neuropathic ulcers did not exceed the 4 °F range, and the majority of the measurements occupy a narrow range from −2°F to 2 °F.

Originality/value

The proposed prototype of wearable medical apparatus can monitor both temperature variation and pulsatile-blood-flow signal on the forefoot simultaneously and thereby predict both ischemic and neuropathic diabetes using a single device. Most importantly, the wearable medical device can be used domestically without clinical assistance with a real-time data monitoring platform to predict the possibility of ulceration and the course of action thereof.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 18 March 2024

Lifeng Wang, Fei Yu, Ziwang Xiao and Qi Wang

When the reinforced concrete beams are reinforced by bonding steel plates to the bottom, excessive use of steel plates will make the reinforced concrete beams become…

Abstract

Purpose

When the reinforced concrete beams are reinforced by bonding steel plates to the bottom, excessive use of steel plates will make the reinforced concrete beams become super-reinforced beams, and there are security risks in the actual use of super-reinforced beams. In order to avoid the occurrence of this situation, the purpose of this paper is to study the calculation method of the maximum number of bonded steel plates to reinforce reinforced concrete beams.

Design/methodology/approach

First of all, when establishing the limit failure state of the reinforced member, this paper comprehensively considers the role of the tensile steel bar and steel plate and takes the load effect before reinforcement as the negative contribution of the maximum number of bonded steel plates that can be used for reinforcement. Through the definition of the equivalent tensile strength, equivalent elastic modulus and equivalent yield strain of the tensile steel bar and steel plate, a method to determine the relative limit compression zone height of the reinforced member is obtained. Second, based on the maximum ratio of (reinforcement + steel plate), the relative limit compression zone height and the equivalent tensile strength of the tensile steel bar and steel plate of the reinforced member, the calculation method of the maximum number of bonded steel plates is derived. Then, the static load test of the test beam is carried out and the corresponding numerical model is established, and the reliability of the numerical model is verified by comparison. Finally, the accuracy of the calculation method of the maximum number of bonded steel plates is proved by the numerical model.

Findings

The numerical simulation results show that when the steel plate width is 800 mm and the thickness is 1–4 mm, the reinforced concrete beam has a delayed yield platform when it reaches the limit state, and the failure mode conforms to the basic stress characteristics of the balanced-reinforced beam. When the steel plate thickness is 5–8 mm, the sudden failure occurs without obvious warning when the reinforced concrete beam reaches the limit state. The failure mode conforms to the basic mechanical characteristics of the super-reinforced beam failure, and the bending moment of the beam failure depends only on the compressive strength of the concrete. The results of the calculation and analysis show that the maximum number of bonded steel plates for reinforced concrete beams in this experiment is 3,487 mm2. When the width of the steel plate is 800 mm, the maximum thickness of the steel plate can be 4.36 mm. That is, when the thickness of the steel plate, the reinforced concrete beam is still the balanced-reinforced beam. When the thickness of the steel plate, the reinforced concrete beam will become a super-reinforced beam after reinforcement. The calculation results are in good agreement with the numerical simulation results, which proves the accuracy of the calculation method.

Originality/value

This paper presents a method for calculating the maximum number of steel plates attached to the bottom of reinforced concrete beams. First, based on the experimental research, the failure mode of reinforced concrete beams with different number of steel plates is simulated by the numerical model, and then the result of the calculation method is compared with the result of the numerical simulation to ensure the accuracy of the calculation method of the maximum number of bonded steel plates. And the study does not require a large number of experimental samples, which has a certain economy. The research result can be used to control the number of steel plates in similar reinforcement designs.

Details

International Journal of Structural Integrity, vol. 15 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1757-9864

Keywords

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