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The moisture vapour permeability properties of a series of almost similar polyesterviscose (P/V) and polyester-cotton (P/C) blended fabrics are investigated. The water vapour transport rate greatly differs depending on the principle of the test methods, even when other parameters are nearly identical, such as air permeability, areal density, porosity and thickness. The water absorption characteristics of fibre seem to be the most important in determining the overall water vapour transport rate. Substitution of polyester for viscose and cotton in P/V and P/C blended fabrics respectively, reduces the water transport rate of the fabrics in a long term method. It is found that the P/C blended fabrics show greater water vapour transport than the corresponding P/V fabrics when a long term test method is used; however, the P/V fabrics show relatively higher water vapour permeability than the P/C fabrics when short duration tests are carried out by using the Permetest and moisture vapour transmission rate (MVTR) cell methods

Sewing is the most widely used and preferred method for manufacturing clothing products for extreme weather conditions and other industrial insulation systems. Multiple layers of functional fabrics in combination with insulation materials are used to thermally insulate precious body heat from its surrounding cold environment. The sewing process fixes the insulation material between the fabric layers. During conventional sewing, the insulation material is compressed along the stitch line. With the compression of the insulation material, entrapped air is forced to leave the insulation material internal structure, and heat loss occurs along the entire length of the stitch line. It results in the deterioration of thermal properties of the end product along the stitch line.

The amount of air, which is a decisive factor for thermal properties of any insulation system, was investigated at the level of a unit stitch length of a lockstitch. Conventional microscopy methods are not suitable to study the compression along the stitch line. With the help of X-ray tomography, the three-dimensional data of a stitch was taken and studied to measure the volume of air. The samples were prepared with conventional lockstitch sewing and a newly developed innovative sewing method “Spacer Stitching.” The results are compared with each other in terms of the amount of air present in a unit stitch length.

Calculations based on X-ray tomography images of lockstitch and spacer stitch revealed that, in the case of lockstitch, a unit stitch has a 15% of its volume made up of material and 85% of its volume by air. In comparison, the spacer stitch with the same sewing and fabric parameters has a material volume of 4.6 % and an air volume of 95.4% in a single stitch.

The research can positively improve the thermal properties of sewn material made for insulating purposes of conventional clothing as well as of industrial insulations.

There is no literature available which investigates and calculates the amount of air and material present along with a stitch line.

The thermophysiological comfort of fabrics is prerequisite as customers covet adequate moisture, heat management-supported and UV protective clothing that measure up to their levels of activities and environmental conditions. Hitherto, scant tasks have been reported with the purpose of engineering both comfort and UV protection simultaneously. From that vantage point, the objective of this work is to develop a model for optimum UPF, air permeability, water-vapour resistance, thermal resistance, thermal absorptivity and areal density of knitted fabrics.

Weft knitted fabrics of various compositions were investigated. UPF was tested using the Labsphere UV transmittance analyser. The FX 3300 (Textest instruments) air permeability tester was used to test air permeability. Thermal comfort and water-vapour resistance were evaluated using the Alambeta and Permetest instruments, respectively. Based on image processing, the porosity was measured. Fabrics thickness and areal density were measured according to standard methods. Furthermore, parametric and non-parametric statistical test methods were applied to the data for analysis.

Linear regression was substantiated by Kolmogorov-Smirnov test. Then multiple linear regression of porosity and thickness together on UPF and comfort parameters were visually depicted by virtue of 3D linear plots. Residual analysis with quantile-quantile and probability plots, advocated the tests using the Shapiro-Wilk test. The result was validated by comparison with experimental data tested. The samples gave satisfactory relative errors and were supported by the z-test method. All tests indicated failure to reject the null hypothesis.

The predictive models were embedded into an interactive computer program. Fabric thickness and porosity are the inputs needed to run the program. It will predict the optimum UPF, areal density and thermophysiological comfort parameters. In a nutshell, knitters may use the program to determine optimum structural parameters for diverse permutations of UPF and thermophysiological comfort parameters; scilicet high UV protection together with low thermal insulation combined with low water-vapour resistance and high air permeability.

The purpose of this paper is to analyse the seersucker fabrics from the point of view of their ability to ensure the thermo-physiological comfort. It was investigated how the kind of the weft yarn and seersucker structure influence the air permeability and thermal insulation properties of the fabrics.

The paper presents the investigations of the typical seersucker fabrics made of the same set of warps and different weft yarns. Fabrics were manufactured on the same loom with two warp beams. Next they were finished by the same way including washing, drying and stabilisation processes. Fabrics were measured in the range of their air permeability using standard test method. Thermal insulation properties of fabrics were measured in dry and wet state by means of Alambeta. Surface topography of the seersucker fabrics was analysed using 3D laser scanning.

On the basis of the obtained results it was stated that due to the puckered structure the seersucker fabrics are characterised by high thermal resistance, several times higher than the thermal resistance of typical flat woven fabrics. The seersucker fabrics are characterised by very low value of the thermal absorptivity in wet state at the level appropriate for typical flat fabrics in dry state. It confirmed that the seersucker fabrics ensure the physiological comfort. Application of the elastomeric yarn in weft caused significant tightening the fabric structure. It resulted in low air permeability, fabric stiffness and unpleasant hand.

As a limitation of the investigation of the seersucker fabrics in wet state we can mention the surface topography of the fabrics. It made wetting the fabrics difficult before measuring. It is necessary to elaborate precise procedure of preparation of seersucker fabrics before their testing in the wet state.

Performed investigations showed that the seersucker fabrics have a big potential to be comfortable. By an appropriate designing of their structure it is possible to achieve very good comfort-related properties even without application of innovative comfort-oriented yarns.

The originality of the paper is based on the fact that the measurement was performed for the seersucker fabrics. The fabrics are characterised by the unique structure which influences their appearance and utility properties. It caused that they are willingly applied in different kinds of clothing. Till now any results of comfort-related properties of such kind of the woven fabrics have not been published.

Lightweight, open construction cotton knitted fabrics generally do not impart good protection from solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). As lightweight 100% cotton single jersey is highly cherished for summerwear, it is sine qua non to understand the structural parameters that effectively strike a good balance between UV protection and thermophysiological comfort of the wearer. Relatively heavy fabrics protect from UVR, but comfort is compromised because of waning porosity, increase in thickness and thermal insulation. The purpose of this paper is to engineer knits that will bestow maximum UV protection while preserving the thermophysiological comfort of the wearer.

In total, 27 cotton single jersey fabrics with different areal densities and yarn counts were selected. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) was calculated based on the work of Imrith (2022). To précis, the authors constructed a UV box to measure the UPF of fabrics, denoted as UPF_B. UPF_B data were correlated with AATCC 183-2004 and yielded high correlation, R² 0.977. It was concluded that UPF 50 corresponds to UPF_B 94.3. Thermal comfort properties were measured on the Alambeta and water-vapour resistance on the Permetest. Linear programming (LP) was used to optimize UPF_B and comfort. Linear optimization focused on maximizing UPF_B while keeping the thermophysiological comfort and areal density as constraints.

The resulting linear geometrical and sensitivity analyses generated multiple technically feasible solutions of fabrics thickness and porosity that gave valid UPF_B, thermal absorptivity and water-vapour and thermal resistance. Subsequently, an interactive optimization software was developed to predict the stitch length, tightness factor and yarn count for optimum UPF_B from a given areal density. The predicted values were then used to knit seven 100% cotton single jersey fabrics and were tested for UV protection. All seven fabrics gave UPF_B above the threshold, that is, higher than 94.3. The mathematical model demonstrated good correlations with the optimized parameters and experimental values.

The optimization software predicted the optimum UPF_B reasonably well, starting from the fabric structural and constructional parameters. In addition, the models were developed as interactive user interfaces, which can be used by knitted fabric developers to engineer cotton knits for maximizing UV protection without compromising thermophysiological comfort. It has been demonstrated that LP is an efficient tool for the optimization and prediction of targeted knitted fabrics parameters.

In this study the effect of the aminofunctional silicone softeners on fabrics’ heat and moisture transport properties has been investigated by means of Alambeta and Permetest instruments. The silicone treated PES blended fabrics are warmer to the touch, but less comfortable as regards their reduced water‐vapour permeability. The finishing stage of the fabrics has considerable influence on their thermal touch sensation and water‐vapour permeability.

The use of nonwoven fabrics in garment has been, up to now, purely functional and hidden from view. In fact, their uses have been limited to garment interlining in the apparel industry. Felted structures from wool have been limited to the craft market for the production of art and craft objects of decoration. This paper aims to compare the mechanical and thermo-physical comfort properties of a woven wool, a felted wool fabric, a felted wool/polyester and two non-woven synthetic fabrics for apparel use.

Fabric samples were sourced locally. Five fabric samples were selected: one woolen woven, one felted woven, one polyester/wool non-woven and two non-woven synthetic fabrics. The wool fabric was felted by mechanical action using the Wascator FOM 71P machine. All fabric samples were conditioned before they were tested for their mechanical and thermal comfort properties as per standard test methods.

The comparative study of the mechanical and thermal properties of the five fabric samples have been successfully investigated as textile materials for commercial garments. In terms of fabric stiffness, drape and handle, the two non-woven synthetic fabrics were, in general, poorer than the woven wool and the felted woven wool fabrics. The synthetic non-woven fabrics also performed poorly in terms of serviceability. But it was found that the nonwoven synthetic fabrics were best suited when thermal insulation is required and were found to be better than the woven felted wool fabric of comparative weight per unit area.

The value of this study is that it demonstrates the scope of felted woolen structures and other synthetic nonwovens fabrics as usable materials, in part or in full, in the development of apparel for winter wear especially in cold environments and where aesthetic appeal is secondary.

Quality assessment of textile products is of prime concern to intimately meet consumer demands. The dilemma faced by textile producers is to figure out the stability among quality criteria and efficiently deal with target specifications. Hence, the basic devotion is to attain the optimum value product which entirely satisfies the views and perceptions of consumers. Selection of best fabric among several alternatives in the presence of contradictory measures is a disputing problem in multicriteria decision-making.

In the current study, the analytic hierarchy process (AHP) and preference ranking organization method for enrichment evaluation (PROMETHEE) are proficiently used to solve the problem in selection of branded woven shawls. AHP method verifies comparative weights of the criteria selection, while the ranking of fabric alternatives grounded on specific net-outranking flows is executed through PROMETHEE II method.

The collective AHP and PROMETHEE approaches are applied for the useful accomplishment of grading of branded shawls based on multicriteria weights, used for effective selection of fabric materials in the textile market.

In the apparel industry, fabric and garment manufacturers often rely on hit-and-trial methods, leading to significant wastage of valuable resources and time, in achieving the desirable fabric qualities. The implementation of the findings can assist apparel manufacturers in streamlining their fabric selection processes based on multiple criteria. By adopting this method, industry players can make informed decisions, ensuring a balance between quality standards and consumer expectations, thereby enhancing both product value and market competitiveness.

The methods of Visual PROMETHEE and AHP are assimilated to offer a complete method for the selection and grading of fabrics with reference to multiple selection criteria.

In this paper, the thermal contact comfort of a suddenly wetted shirt and some selected mechanical parameters of ten various woven shirt fabrics were measured with the aim of determining the effect of their composition on their complex quality level. In order to explain the thermal contact comfort of superficially wetted shirts, a new parameter called moisture absorptivity was introduced and a simple equation of the moisture transfer between the fabric and skin was derived. Since the direct measurement of the moisture absorptivity is complicated, an indirect method for its experimental determination was described and used for evaluation of thermal comfort. As regards the final complex evaluation of the measured shirt fabrics, it was found that shirts containing 25‐40 per cent of classical PES fibres blended with cotton, compared with non‐treated pure cotton shirts, have shown similar or even better water vapour permeability, fairly warmer feeling in dry state, better shear, fairly better ability to keep the form and a bit lower moisture absorptivity (worse thermal contact comfort feeling in the case of superficial wetting). Moreover, thermal comfort properties may be still improved by the application of special modified PES fibres.

The purpose of this study was to investigate the heat and moisture transmission through different types of textile materials or material combinations used for male business clothing.

In this study, eight different material combinations, which simulate four‐layer male business clothing system were tested using the sweating cylinder under two environmental conditions (10°C/65% RH and 25°C/65% RH), and at two sweating levels (100 and 200 gm⁻²h⁻¹), in order to evaluate the heat and moisture transmission properties of material combinations.

The results show how combinations of clothing materials that simulate male business clothing system influence on the dry and evaporative heat loss between the cylinder surface and two different environment conditions as well as to different sweating levels.

The sweating cylinder can be used for measuring the heat and moisture transmission through clothing materials or material combinations in order to find out the best combination of textile materials, which simulate clothing system. Measured thermal comfort properties of material combinations evaluated with a sweating cylinder can provide valuable information for the textile and clothing industry by manufacturing/designing new textiles and clothing systems.

The paper investigated the heat and moisture transmission through combinations of clothing materials that simulate male business clothing system. In the past few years, clothing materials containing microencapsulated phase‐change materials (PCMs) have appeared in outdoor garments, particularly sportswear; therefore, we decided to investigate the combinations of standard used textile materials as well as of materials, containing PCMs, which simulate male business clothing system.