Search results

Realistic geometric description is essential for simulating physical properties of warp-knitted velvet fabrics, which are widely used for home-textiles and garments. The purpose of this paper is to provide an approach to the description of patterned piles and propose a customized simulation model to realize highly real-time simulation of warp-knitted velvet fabrics in three dimensions.

Based on knitting technology and structure features, a mathematical model to qualify forming possibility of piles is conducted by assessing underlaps of pattern bars and pile ground bars. When the pile areas and ground areas are classified, a three-dimensional (3D) space coordinate is built, of which the z-axis is divided into equal spaces to form certain multi-layer textured slices. Color and transparency of piles on each textured slice can be computed and generated by mapping to 3D geometrical grid layers with particular mapping relationship. Moreover, piles’ deflection and spatial collision are also taken into account to make sure high uniformity with real fabrics.

According to the models built, a simulator special for warp-knitted patterned velvet fabrics is programed via Visual C++ and the models are proven practical and easily implemented by comparing simulated effect of one sample with real fabric.

Because of present limited research, 3D simulation of patterned velvet fabrics knitted on double-needle bar Raschel machine as well as 3D shadow effect will be studied in the further research.

The paper includes implications for designing patterned velvet products and shows convenience to instantly see finished effect without sampling on machine.

This paper fulfills a featured simulation method for warp-knitted patterned velvet fabrics in 3D dimensions for the first time.

Double-jacquard technique is referred as the most advanced technology for forming patterns on both layers of a 3D fabric knitted on a double-needle bar warp-knitting machine. In order to realize the computer-aided design and simulation of jacquard patterns, the purpose of this paper is to propose a mathematic model for representation of jacquard structures and an improved mass-spring model to improve the simulation of structural deformation behavior.

Primarily, it analyzes the jacquard patterning method and displacing principle to design jacquard structures on each layer and linking structures of two layers. Based on that, a loop geometry defined by six key points and segmental lines is built to transfer the jacquard bitmap and lapping movements into a fabric of loops and therefore realizing patterns visualization. Afterwards, an improved mass-spring model is built to simulate structural deformation, in which the fabric is simplified as a mesh of uniformly distributed mass particles. Each loop is treated as a massless particle while underlaps are referred as structural springs connecting loops particles. Elastic forces of these springs on each loop particle is calculated according to the Hook’s law and Newton’s second law, and then based on the explicit Euler’s equations, motion state of each particle is solved including the velocity and the shift.

Based on the above method, a simulator for double-layer jacquard fabrics is developed via Visual C++ language to visualize the patterned fabrics with pitting effects. With a jacquard shoe fabric as an example, this simulation model is proved to be practical and efficient by comparing the simulation result and real fabric.

Because of limited researches, 3D simulation modeling of this double-layer jacquard fabric will be studied in the further research.

The implement of this simulation method will offer the industries a time-saving and cost-saving approach for new fabrics development.

This approach can be used as a reference for simulating other knitted fabrics with jacquard patterns, such as jacquard garment fabrics and home textile fabrics.

The virtual display of 3D garment is one of the most important features in a computer-aided garment design system. The purpose of this paper is to present a novel web-based 3D virtual display framework for the online design of warp-knitted seamless garment using the latest WebGL and HTML5 technologies.

Based on the feature-based parametric 3D human body model, the 3D model of skin-tight warp-knitted seamless garment is established using the geometric modeling method. By applying plane parameterization technology, the 3D garment model is then projected into corresponding 2D prototype pattern and a texture-mapping relationship is obtained. Finally, an online 3D virtual display application framework for warp-knitted seamless garment is implemented on modern WebGL-enabled web browsers using the latest WebGL and HTML5 technologies, which allow garment designers to globally access without installing any additional software or plugin.

Based on the 2D/3D model of warp-knitted seamless garment, an online 3D virtual display application running on modern WebGL-enabled web browser is implemented using the latest Javascript, WebGL and HTML5 technologies, which is proven to be an effective way for building the web-based 3D garment CAD systems.

This paper provides a parametric design method for warp-knitted seamless garment 2D/3D model, and web-based online virtual display of 3D warp-knitted seamless garment is implemented for the first time, which establishes the foundation for the web-based online computer-aided warp-knitted seamless garment design system.

The circumstances in which carpet is specified will vary from new premises where advice may be sought from consultants, to the replacement of floor coverings in a small part of old‐premises where the objective could be to ‘get something as good as the carpet that lasted 25 years that has just worn out’. The specifier may be an expert in the field, or a jack‐of‐all‐trades dependent on the local carpet supplier for advice and help. This article is directed towards the facilities manager with no expert knowledge and aims to provide him with the right questions. Some he will then be able to answer for himself: others he will be qualified to pass on to a resident expert or to an outside consultant.

Following the velvet revolution of 1989 and the adoption of a democratic form of government, Czech policing has experienced a plethora of changes resulting in a new police force that has been understudied to date. This research seeks to address this void using an exploratory approach that utilizes survey research to gauge the attitudes of 70 Czech police officers regarding crime and criminal justice policies; police and government involvement in social and order maintenance problems; and police practices in the Czech Republic (e.g. community‐oriented policing). Several factors – historical, ideology and job tenure – are considered as potential explanations for observed trends in officer attitudes. The results indicate that there are no clear patterns to these officers' attitudes.

George Mortimer Pullman (1831-1897), nineteenth century US luxury rail car entrepreneur, divides opinion. Some commemorate Pullman as a brilliant industrialist, innovator and self-made man. Others view him as a loathsome robber baron, union buster, racist and affront to democracy. This paper aims to demonstrate Pullman’s significant contribution to marketing.

Historical accounts of Pullman are re-examined to highlight his company’s unique adaptation of numerous marketing techniques (consumer research, brand strategy, public relations, product launch, fashion cycle, advertising, product placement and customer service marketing).

Pullman’s distinct flair for understanding his market enabled him to develop marketing strategies intertwined with broader cultural changes in ideals and practices. Pullman’s construction of destination tourism met an expanding white middle class desire for recreation and escape from the economic and racial inequality of the city. Pullman’s creed that beauty acted as a civilizing agent spoke to the social norms of leisure class femininity. Constant release of ever-grander rail cars shaped a fashion cycle around which wealthy men’s status competition turned. Pullman pioneered the leasing of luxury to control his best asset: the service of black Porters’.

First, this paper provides a new perspective on George Pullman, a significant figure in US history. Second, it addresses a common bias in nineteenth century historical accounts that privilege the contribution of men, industrial labor and production and shadow the role of consumption, women and leisure. Third, it challenges the idea of a clean divide between industrial and post-industrial economies by tracing contemporary consumer culture practices to their nineteenth century roots (marketing, destination tourism, brand stories, democratization of fashion, tipping and service with a smile).

The use of interactive, case method and other experiential teaching has a very recent history in the Czech and Slovak educational systems. Before the “Velvet revolution”, courses were typically taught using non‐interactive lecturing. Along with the recent introduction of the free market economy has come a real need for business administration courses. The Czechoslovak Management Center has attempted to introduce and foster interactive techniques through direct training and through pairing western and Czech/Slovak Faculty in the classroom. Experiences during the first 18 months revealed market resistance to interactive methods among some local faculty and students. Reviews issues which impinge on receptivity to interactive teaching on the part of Czech and Slovak Faculty and students. Identifies lessons learned and makes recommendations.

This chapter explores the extent to which female public relations (PR) practitioners perform professionalism in the workplace by interrogating and examining their professional behaviours. Using an ethnographic approach, where the researcher is immersed in the field, it uncovers the lived experiences and behavioural responses of women working in PR agency environments in the United Kingdom and enables a rich description of professional behaviours to emerge.

Fawkes argues that research into roles in PR ‘has tended to assess roles using management rather than sociological theory’ (2014, p. 2). That is not to say that all PR research adopts the same paradigmatic stance. Several scholars have encouraged the development of a research agenda rooted in social theory. Holtzhausen called for a move away from what she termed the ‘modernist approach to organizations’ (2002, p. 251), which focuses on management discourse, and encouraged instead a focus on the postmodern concept of discourse, where meaning is constructed and conveyed through social and institutional practices.

In seeking to discover the ‘lived experience’ of female practitioners, this chapter locates professionalism in the context of their behaviours and enables individuals to articulate their understandings of the relationship between performance and professionalism. Using Goffman's (1959) work on social encounters as performances in conjunction with Foucauldian discourse and Feminist theory, this chapter explores the three stages of performing professionalism – preparation, performance and reception – through the eyes of women working in PR agencies in the United Kingdom to explore their lived experience and determine how gender affects their performance of professional behaviour.

The texturalcentric model of non‐attribute‐based visual and tactile response to textural fabric surfaces was used to elicit definitive qualities or dimensions of textural fabric surfaces. Multidimensional scaling analysis permitted subjects to provide numeric judgements of fabrics rather than using words with individuals' historic definitions of those terms, or without understanding some terms. Objectives of the study included validating the attributes identified by college students, and ascertaining the persistence of attributes that contribute to visual and tactile perception of adult women (25–45 years of age) and older women (60 years of age and older). One‐hundred‐and‐twenty subjects (50 per cent adult, 50 per cent older) provided visual or tactile ratings of the similarities of 30 fabrics. Data were subjected to multidimensional scaling analysis and coefficients of congruence were calculated. Dimensions or characteristics of fabrics were named using bipolar adjectives: rough to smooth, plane to depth, irregular to regular surface units, shiny to matt, fine to coarse, lightweight to heavyweight, simple to complex, hard to soft compressibility, pliable to stiff, harsh to slippery, small units to large units, open to compact, and soft to bumpy‐rough. From these, a schema for the textural perception of fabric surfaces, was modelled.

My focus in this paper is on the meaning that rock music has for fans of Lou Reed. I use the comments following his death as my primary data. These data were posted on the New York Times website in the comments section following the report “Outsider Whose Dark, Lyrical Vision Helped Shape Rock ‘n’ Roll.” From these data I develop what I call “the marginal self” in reference to how rock music helps self-identified marginalized persons to deal with their social exclusion and alienation. Drawing on Kotarba’s (2012) analytic categories of the self, I will show how these data give insight into a wide range of existential meanings related to the music of Lou Reed. For many who wrote these comments their reading of Lou Reed has been an essential transformative part of their life in similar ways to baby boomers as outlined in Kotarba’s (2012) Baby Boomers Rock ‘n’ Roll Fans: The Music Never Ends. I first show how Kotarba’s (2012) core concepts of the musical self provide insight into how fans of Lou Reed develop a sense of self through Reed’s music. I then turn to a discussion of the marginalized self as a development of Kotarba’s (2012) categories of “authenticity work” and “becoming of the self.” Suggestions for future research are noted.