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Accurate and automatic clothing pattern making is very important in personalized clothing customization and virtual fitting room applications. Clothing pattern generating as well as virtual clothing simulation is an attractive research issue both in clothing industry and computer graphics.

Physics-based method is an effective way to model dynamic process and generate realistic clothing animation. Due to conceptual simplicity and computational speed, mass-spring model is frequently used to simulate deformable and soft objects follow the natural physical rules. We present a physics-based clothing pattern generating framework by using scanned human body model. After giving a scanned human body model, first, we extract feature points, planes and curves on the 3D model by geometric analysis, and then, we construct a remeshed surface which has been formatted to connected quad meshes. Second, for each clothing piece in 3D, we construct a mass-spring model with same topological structures, and conduct a typical time integration algorithm to the mass-spring model. Finally, we get the convergent clothing pieces in 2D of all clothing parts, and we reconnected parts which are adjacent on 3D model to generate the basic clothing pattern.

The results show that the presented method is a feasible way for clothing pattern generating by use of scanned human body model.

The main contribution of this work is twofold: one is the geometric algorithm to scanned human body model, which is specially conducted for clothing pattern design to extract feature points, planes and curves. This is the crucial base for suit clothing pattern generating. Another is the physics-based pattern generating algorithm which flattens the 3D shape to 2D shape of cloth pattern pieces.

E-commerce companies often manipulate customer decisions through dark patterns to meet their interests. Therefore, this study aims to identify, model and rank the enablers behind dark patterns usage in e-commerce companies.

Dark pattern enablers were identified from existing literature and validated by industry experts. Total interpretive structural modeling (TISM) was used to model the enablers. In addition, “matriced impacts croisés multiplication appliquée á un classement” (MICMAC) analysis categorized and ranked the enablers into four groups.

Partial human command over cognitive biases, fighting market competition and partial human command over emotional triggers were ranked as the most influential enablers of dark patterns in e-commerce companies. At the same time, meeting long-term economic goals was identified as the most challenging enabler of dark patterns, which has the lowest dependency and impact over the other enablers.

TISM results are reliant on the opinion of industry experts. Therefore, alternative statistical approaches could be used for validation.

The insights of this study could be used by business managers to eliminate dark patterns from their platforms and meet the motivations of the enablers of dark patterns with alternate strategies. Furthermore, this research would aid legal agencies and online communities in developing methods to combat dark patterns.

Although a few studies have developed taxonomies and classified dark patterns, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, no study has identified the enablers behind the use of dark patterns by e-commerce organizations. The study further models the enablers and explains the mutual relationships.

This study establishes the principles and process steps of a new basic trousers pattern using measurements obtained according to the rules of the anthropometric measurement system. The newly developed pattern-making system in this study will be called the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa). It is aimed at producing trousers that are more fitting to the body, thanks to this pattern-making system.

In this research, four pattern-making systems used in many parts of the world were compared with the “Anthropometric Measurements Based Pattern Making System” (AnMePa) with regard to the overall appearance and body fit of trousers prepared according to these systems. 10 virtual mannequins (VM) with different adult female body measurements were created, and trousers patterns were prepared for these mannequins. The trousers’ patterns were made and dressed on the mannequins in a 3D virtual dressing system. The body fit of the virtual garments was evaluated by five experts. The scores given by the experts were evaluated using the fuzzy logic method.

According to the results, it is seen that the new basic trousers pattern developed by utilizing the anthropometric measurement system, AnMePa, provides the best body fit among the basic trousers patterns created according to the other examined pattern-making systems. The combination of 3D virtual dressing and fuzzy logic in the evaluation of garment body fit is considered an innovative method for the future of fashion design and production.

In the developed AnMePa, unlike the existing pattern-making systems, values that can be associated with the body measurements of individuals in a way that could be suitable for each community were used instead of constant values in the pattern-making process. Furthermore, the integration of 3D virtual fitting and fuzzy logic in assessing garment fit is considered a pioneering approach with significant implications for the future landscape of fashion design and production.

Entrepreneurial ventures aspiring to disrupt existing market incumbents often use business-model innovation to increase the attractiveness of their offerings. A value proposition is the central element of a business model, and is critical for this purpose. However, how entrepreneurial ventures modify their value propositions to increase the attractiveness of their comparatively inferior offerings is not well understood. The purpose of this paper is to analyze the value proposition innovation (VPI) of aspiring disruptors.

The authors used a flexible pattern matching approach to ground the inductive findings in extant theory. The authors conducted 21 semi-structured interviews with managers from startups in the global electric vehicle industry.

The authors developed a framework, showing two factors, determinants and tactics, that play a key role in VPI connected by a continuous feedback loop. Directed by the determinants of cognitive antecedents, development drivers and realization capabilities, aspiring disruptors determine the scope, focus and priorities of various configuration and support tactics to enable and secure the success of their value proposition.

The authors contribute to theory by showing how cognitive antecedents, development drivers and capabilities determine VPI tactics to disrupt existing market incumbents, furthering the understanding of configuration tactics. The results have important implications for disruptive innovation theory, and entrepreneurship research and practice, as they offer an explanatory framework to analyze strategies of aspiring disruptors who increase the attractiveness of sustainable technologies, thereby accelerating their diffusion.

Culture is considered a critical aspect of social media usage. The purpose of this paper is to explore how cultures and languages influence multilingual users' cross-cultural information sharing patterns.

This study used a crowdsourcing survey with Amazon Mechanical Turk to collect qualitative and quantitative data from 355 multilingual users who utilize two or more languages daily. A mixed-method approach combined statistical, and cluster analysis with thematic analysis was employed to analyze information sharing patterns among multilingual users in the Chinese cultural context.

It was found that most multilingual users surveyed preferred to share in their first and second language mainly because that is what others around them speak or use. Multilingual users have more diverse sharing characteristics and are more actively engaged in social media. The results also provide insights into what incentives make multilingual users engage in social media to share information related to Chinese culture with the MOA model. Finally, the ten motivation factors include learning, entertainment, empathy, personal gain, social engagement, altruism, self-expression, information, trust and sharing culture. One opportunity factor is identified, which is convenience. Three ability factors are recognized consist of self-efficacy, habit and personality.

The findings are conducive to promoting the active participation of multilingual users in online communities, increasing global resource sharing and information flow and promoting the consumption of digital cultural content.

The total defence (TD) concept constitutes a joint endeavour between the military forces and civil defence structures within a TD state. Logistics is essential for such joint collaboration to work; however, the mismatch between military and civil defence logistics structures poses challenges for such joint collaboration. The purpose of this paper is to identify logistics concept areas within the TD framework that allow for military and civil defence collaborations from a logistics operations perspective.

Pattern-matching analysis is used to compare patterns found in the investigated case with those prescribed from the literature and predicted to occur. The study seeks to identify logistics concepts within TD from the literature and from the events describing the Swedish response to the Covid-19 pandemic. Pattern matching thus allows for the reconciliation of logistics concepts from the literature to descriptions of how the response was handled, albeit under a TD framework.

Findings show quite distinct foci between the theoretical and observational realms in terms of logistics applications. While the theoretical realm identifies four main logistics concepts, the observational realm identifies five logistics conceptual themes. This goes on to show an incongruence between the military and civil parts of the TD.

This study provides basis for further research into the applications and management of logistics activity within TD and emergency response.

Logistics applications within TD have not, until now, received much attention in the literature. Given this knowledge gap, this study is of original value.

The purpose of this study is to determine the effect of laser treatment on disperse dye-uptake and fastness values of polyester fabrics. Furthermore, it was aimed to evaluate colors directly over the photos of fabric samples instead of color measuring with spectrophotometer which is thought to be useful in terms of online digital color assessment.

In this study, 100% polyester (150 denier) single jersey knitted fabrics (weight: 145 g/m2, course density: 15 loops/cm, wale density: 24 loops/cm) were used in the trials. The effect of laser treatments before and after dyeing on color was investigated. Laser treatments were applied to fabrics at different resolutions (20, 25 and 30 dpi) and pixel times (60, 80 and 100 µs) before dyeing. The power of the laser beam was 210 W and the wavelength was 10.6 µm. In order to determine the effect of laser treatment on polyester; FTIR analysis, SEM-EDX analysis and bursting strength tests were applied to untreated and treated fabric samples.

It was found that treatments with laser have a significant effect on disperse dye-uptake of polyester fibers, and for this reason laser-treated fabrics were dyed in darker shade. Furthermore, it was determined that the samples treated at 30 dpi started to melt and the fabric was damaged considerably, but the fabrics treated at 20 and 25 dpi were not affected at all. Another result obtained regarding the use of laser technology in polyester fabrics is that if some areas of fabrics are not treated with laser and some other areas are treated with laser at 20 dpi 60 µs and 25 dpi 60 µs, it will be possible to obtain patterns containing three different shades of the same color on the fabric.

When the literature is examined, it is seen that there are various studies on the dyeability and patterning of polyester fabrics with disperse dyes by laser technology. As it is known, today color measurement is done digitally using a spectrophotometer. However, when we look at a photograph on computer screens, the colors we see are defined by RGB (red-green-blue) values, while in the spectrophotometer they are defined by L*a*b* (L*: lightness-darkness, a*: redness-greenness, b*: yellowness-blueness) values. Especially when it is desired to produce various design products by creating patterns with laser technology, it would be more useful to show the color directly to the customer on the computer screen and to be able to speak over the same values on the color. For this reason, in this study, the color measurement of the fabric samples was not made with a spectrophotometer, instead, the RGB values obtained from the photographs of the samples were converted into L*a*b* values with MATLAB and interpreted, that is, a digital color evaluation was made on the photographs. Therefore, it is believed that this study will contribute to the literature.

By focusing on Sustainable Development Goal 12 (SDG 12) and tourism automation, this perspective paper aims to investigate how tourism and automation will work to create a world in which tourism has more sustainable production and consumption patterns.

This perspective paper reviews the past developments of automation in tourism in the context of sustainable production and consumption patterns, the lessons learned from the COVID-19 pandemic and looks at the future of tourism and how automation will help it be more sustainable in terms of consumption and production patterns.

The insights from this analysis suggest that automation technologies will play a major role in both the supply and demand sides of the tourism and hospitality industry, encouraging increased tourism sustainability. While automation technologies will have the greatest impact on the supply side in the near future, as such technologies will be used to minimise waste and energy usage, creating large gains for environmental protection, the technologies will also benefit responsible consumption. Big data and analytical technologies will work in ways to ensure that consumers are nudged into consumer practices that are increasingly sustainable.

This perspective paper synthesises the literature on the subjects, namely, automation and SDG 12 in tourism, and points to important new future research agenda. This is one of the first papers in tourism to blend automation and SDG 12 literature to shed light on the use of automation in sustainable consumption and production in tourism.

通过聚焦于可持续发展目标12和旅游自动化, 本前瞻性文章旨在探讨旅游业和自动化如何共同创造一个让旅游产业拥有更可持续的生产和消费模式的世界。

本文回顾了旅游自动化在可持续生产和消费模式背景下的发展, 从COVID-19大流行中学到的教训, 并展望旅游业的未来以及自动化如何帮助其在消费和生产模式方面变得更加可持续。

根据分析, 自动化技术将在旅游和酒店业的供求两侧发挥重要作用, 促进旅游业的可持续性发展。虽然自动化技术在近期内将对供应侧产生最大影响, 因为这些技术将被用来最小化废物和能源使用, 为环境保护创造巨大收益, 但这些技术也将惠及负责任消费。大数据和分析技术将以确保消费者被引导向越来越可持续的消费实践。

本前瞻性论文综合了关于旅游中的自动化和可持续发展目标12的文献, 并指出了重要的新的未来研究议程。这是旅游业中第一批结合自动化和可持终发展目标12文献以阐明旅游中可持续消费和生产的自动化使用的论文之一。

Al centrarse en el ODS12 y la automatización del turismo, este artículo de perspectiva pretende investigar cómo el turismo y la automatización trabajarán para crear un mundo en el que el turismo tenga unos patrones de producción y consumo más sostenibles.

Este artículo de perspectiva revisa los desarrollos pasados de la automatización en el turismo en el contexto de los patrones de producción y consumo sostenibles, las lecciones aprendidas de la pandemia COVID-19, y examina el futuro del turismo y cómo la automatización le ayudará a ser más sostenible en términos de patrones de consumo y producción.

Las conclusiones de este análisis sugieren que las tecnologías de automatización desempeñarán un papel importante tanto en la oferta como en la demanda de la industria del turismo y la hotelería, fomentando una mayor sostenibilidad del turismo. Mientras que las tecnologías de automatización tendrán el mayor impacto en el lado de la oferta en un futuro próximo, ya que dichas tecnologías se utilizarán para minimizar los residuos y el uso de energía, creando grandes ganancias para la protección del medio ambiente, las tecnologías también beneficiarán al consumo responsable. Los macrodatos y las tecnologías analíticas funcionarán de manera que se incite a los consumidores a adoptar prácticas de consumo cada vez más sostenibles.

Este documento de perspectiva sintetiza la bibliografía sobre los temas, a saber, la automatización y el ODS12 en el turismo, y apunta a una nueva e importante agenda de investigación futura. Se trata de uno de los primeros trabajos sobre turismo que combina la literatura sobre automatización y ODS12 para arrojar luz sobre el uso de la automatización en el consumo y la producción sostenibles en el turismo.

It has been established that values, beliefs and norms are good predictors of pro-environmental behaviour; however, it is less explored how these constructs can be influenced. The purpose of this paper is to assess whether the COVID-19 pandemic, as a shock event, was a “game changer” or it had limited impacts on deep-rooted travel patterns.

To understand whether the pandemic has influenced people’s value orientations with regards to sustainable travel, the authors have made use of the value–belief–norm (VBN)theory of environmentalism and conducted a large-scale survey in Germany, Italy, France, The Netherlands and UK (N = 1545).

The findings showed that the pandemic caused only temporary change in deep-rooted travel patterns as (self-reported) pre-pandemic behaviour of respondents align with their value orientations and proved to be a good predictor of projected travel behaviour. Based on projected travel behaviour and value orientations, four market segments were identified – Frontrunners, Laggards, Comfortable Crowd and Entitled Stewards. While all segments showed willingness to adapt, the authors found variations in the extent of adaption and in the phases of the customer journey where travellers are likely to make changes.

According to our knowledge, using the VBN theory of environmentalism to understand the impact of shock events on deep-rooted travel patterns represents a new perspective. Moreover, to the best of authors’ knowledge, this study is one of the first, written in the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic, which looks at the impact of the health crisis on deep-rooted travel patterns, instead of the commonly studied risk perception.