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Article
Publication date: 27 April 2023

R. Rathinamoorthy, T. Sharmila Bharathi, M. Snehaa and C. Swetha

Mycelium is an upcoming bio-based alternative material that has various applications in different industries. Mycelium materials used as composites, leather, construction…

Abstract

Purpose

Mycelium is an upcoming bio-based alternative material that has various applications in different industries. Mycelium materials used as composites, leather, construction materials and some are even available for commercial purposes. However, there was not much research found when it came to the application of mycelium as a textile alternative. The purpose of this paper is to examine the potential of mycelium in the textile industry and its possible applications.

Design/methodology/approach

This review consolidates literature that refers the two major methods used in fungal mycelium production namely; as a composite and as a pure self-grown mycelium sheet. The study compared the current research status in this respective field and reported the scope in the pure mycelium development.

Findings

The results of the review reported that several research works are performed in composite production with different feedstock. The production methods and product development steps were well established for several applications from home utilities to construction materials. Whereas, in the case of self-grown mycelium sheet production only limited research works were found. Though the possibilities of engineered composite sheets are developed with various properties, research on self-grown pure mycelium sheets are at infant stage. Sensitive production methods, lower tensile, tearing, poor handle properties with brittle structure and non-uniformity in thickness are noted as limitations. Sustainable nature, self-grown three-dimensional nano-fibril network with porous structure are found to be advantageous.

Originality/value

The solid culture method was identified as a potential method to develop a sheet-like self-grown mycelium with different dimensions. The review results clearly show the lack of research in the direct application of self-grown pure mycelium area concerning feedstock material, fungal species selection and characterization of the developed product. Addressing the existing limitations will yield a sustainable textile material for fashion and textile industry with great potential.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 June 2022

Sheraz Hussain Siddique Hussain Yousfani, Salma Farooq, Quratulain Mohtashim and Hugh Gong

Porosity is one of the most important properties of the textile substrate. It can influence the comfort of a garment by affecting its breathability and thermal conductivity…

Abstract

Purpose

Porosity is one of the most important properties of the textile substrate. It can influence the comfort of a garment by affecting its breathability and thermal conductivity. During the process of dyeing, the dye liquor comes in contact with the substrate; the absorption of the dye liquor into the substrate will be dependent on its porosity. The concept of porosity between the yarns of fabric is a common phenomenon; however, the porosity between the fibres in the yarn can also influence the dyeing behaviour of the fabric.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, ring and rotor yarns of 25/s and 30/s counts are considered as textile substrates. The porosity of yarns was determined theoretically and experimentally using the image analysis method.

Findings

It was found that theoretical porosity is independent of the yarn manufacturing method. In addition, 30/s yarn was more porous as compared with 25/s yarn having a higher pore area. Rotor yarns had higher porosity, dye fixation and K/S as compared with ring yarns. Dyeing behaviour was also dependent on the count of yarn. Specifically, 30/s yarns have higher dye fixation as compared with 25/s yarns. However, 25/s yarns were dyed with deeper shades showing higher K/S values. Also, 25/s yarns are coarser than 30/s yarns having higher diameters and cross-sectional area, thus resulting in deeper shades and higher K/S values.

Originality/value

This novel technique is based on the comparative study of the porosity of various types of yarns using the image analysis technique. This investigation shows that the porosity between the fibres in the yarn can also influence the dyeing behaviour of the yarn.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. 52 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 17 October 2023

Samridhi Garg, Vinay Kumar Midha and Monica Sikka

In experiments utilising sweat solution and distilled water, seamed ensembles performed less thermally efficiently than unseamed fabrics.

Abstract

Purpose

In experiments utilising sweat solution and distilled water, seamed ensembles performed less thermally efficiently than unseamed fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

Water may not accurately reflect perspiration when testing multi-layered clothes for thermal comfort in wet state. Most researchers used water or sodium chloride (NaCl) to measure wet state thermal comfort. However, human perspiration is an extremely complex mixture of aqueous chemicals, including minerals, salts, lipids, urea and lactic acid. This study compares the effects of simulated sweat solution to distilled water on the thermal behaviour of a multi-layered fabric assembly with different seam patterns.

Findings

Experiment results show that stitching decreases thermal resistance and thermal conductivity. Seam pattern of 10 cm diagonal spacing is more thermally resistant than 2.5 cm diagonal spacing. In comparison to that of simulated sweat, fabric that has been moistened with distilled water exhibits increased thermal conductivity. Hollow polyester wadding or micro polyester wadding as the intermediate layer exhibits greater thermal resistance than multi-layered construction with spacer fabric as middle layer.

Originality/value

This study considers human perspiration while designing protective clothing for wet thermal comfort.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 January 2024

Hung Ngoc Phan and Satoko Okubayashi

Dehydrated bacterial cellulose’s (BC) intrinsic rigidity constrains applicability across textiles, leather, health care and other sectors. This study aims to yield a novel BC…

Abstract

Purpose

Dehydrated bacterial cellulose’s (BC) intrinsic rigidity constrains applicability across textiles, leather, health care and other sectors. This study aims to yield a novel BC modification method using glycerol and succinic acid with catalyst and heat, applied via an industrially scalable padding method to tackle BC’s stiffness drawbacks and enhance BC properties.

Design/methodology/approach

Fabric-like BC is generated via mechanical dehydration and then finished by using padding method with glycerol, succinic acid, catalyst and heat. Comprehensive material characterizations, including international testing standards for stiffness, bending properties (cantilever method), tensile properties, moisture vapor transmission rate, moisture content and regain, washing, thermal gravimetric analysis, derivative thermogravimetry, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy and colorimetric measurement, are used.

Findings

The combination of BC/glycerol/succinic acid dramatically enhanced porous structure, elongation (27.40 ± 6.39%), flexibility (flexural rigidity of 21.46 ± 4.01 µN m; bending modulus of 97.45 ± 18.20 MPa) and moisture management (moisture vapor transmission rate of 961.07 ± 86.16 g/m2/24 h; moisture content of 27.43 ± 2.50%; and moisture regain of 37.94 ± 4.73%). This softening process modified the thermal stability of BC. Besides, this study alleviated the drawbacks for washing (five cycles) of BC and glycerol caused by the ineffective affinity between glycerol and cellulose by adding succinic acid with catalyst and heat.

Originality/value

The study yields an effective padding process for BC softening and a unique modified BC to contribute added value to textile and leather industries as a sustainable alternative to existing materials and a premise for future research on BC functionalization by using doable technologies in mass production as padding.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 May 2022

Dat Van Truong, Song Thanh Quynh Le and Huong Mai Bui

Kapok was well-known for its oleophilic properties, but its mechanical properties and morphology impeded it from forming suitable absorbent materials. This study aims to…

Abstract

Purpose

Kapok was well-known for its oleophilic properties, but its mechanical properties and morphology impeded it from forming suitable absorbent materials. This study aims to demonstrate the process of creating an oil-absorbent web from a blend of treated kapok and polypropylene fibers.

Design/methodology/approach

Kapok fibers were separated from dried fruits, then the wax was removed with an HCl solution at different concentrations. The morphological and structural changes of these fibers were investigated using scanning electron microscopy images. The blending ratios of kapok and polypropylene fibers were 60/40, 70/30 and 80/20, respectively. The fiber blends were fed to a laboratory carding machine to form a web and then consolidated using the heat press technique. The absorption behavior of the formed web was evaluated regarding oil absorption capacity and oil retention capacity according to ASTM 726.

Findings

The results showed that the HCl concentration of 1.0% (wt%) gave the highest wax removal efficiency without damaging the kapok fibers. This study found that oil absorbency is influenced by the fiber blending ratio, web tensile strength and elongation, porosity, oil type and environmental conditions. The oil-absorbency of the web can be re-used for at least 20 cycles.

Research limitations/implications

This study only looked at three types of oils: diesel, kerosene and vegetable oils.

Practical implications

When the problem of oil spills in rivers and seas is growing and causing serious environmental and economic consequences, using physical methods to recover oil spills is the most effective solution.

Originality/value

This research adds to the possibility of using kapok fiber in the form of a web of non-woven fabric for practical purposes.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 June 2022

Mohammad Javad Jafari, Elham Akhlaghi Pirposhteh, Mohadese Farhangian, Soheila Khodakarim Ardakani, Elaheh Tavakol, Somayeh Farhang Dehghan and Amin Khalilinejad

The aim of this study is to optimize the electrospinning parameters used in the production process of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) nanofibers.

Abstract

Purpose

The aim of this study is to optimize the electrospinning parameters used in the production process of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) nanofibers.

Design/methodology/approach

The response surface methodology (RSM) was used to determine the experimental design. The 30 nanofiber prototypes candidates were electrospun using a needle-based electrospinning machine. PVC polymer, N-dimethyl formamide and tetrahydrofuran solvents were used to prepare the electrospinning solution.

Findings

The electrospun nanofibers had a mean diameter of 386 ± 136.57 nm, in the range of 200−412 nm. The mean porosity was 31.60 ± 6.37% in the range of 15.33−41.53%. The webs made from electrospun nanofibers had a mean pressure loss of 194.23 ± 47.7 pa in the range of 124−300 pa. The highest statistically significant correlation was observed between solution concentration and nanofiber diameter (r = 0.756, p < 0.05).

Originality/value

The optimal electrospinning parameters were determined to be: a solution concentration of 11 weight percent, a voltage of 16.5 kV, a needle-collector distance of 13.5 cm and an electrospinning duration of 4 h.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 November 2022

Giovanni Anggasta, Iwan Halim Sahputra and Debora Anne Yang Aysia

The objective of this research is to systematically compare two methods of wicking test for evaluating the quality of the non-medical-mask fabric, i.e. its absorbency property at…

Abstract

Purpose

The objective of this research is to systematically compare two methods of wicking test for evaluating the quality of the non-medical-mask fabric, i.e. its absorbency property at various conditions, using a design of experiment approach. This research also evaluates the suitability of several fabrics to be used for non-medical masks.

Design/methodology/approach

Horizontal and vertical wicking tests were selected to evaluate the absorbency property of five fabrics commonly used for the non-medical mask. The tests were performed at three temperatures and using two types of liquid. The design of experiment approach was employed to determine the relationship between the path length of liquid movement in fabric and type of test method, temperature and type of liquid.

Findings

Both vertical and horizontal wicking tests show the same order of fabrics according to their absorbency. The order is cotton twill, local cotton, Japanese cotton, Oxford and Scuba, where the first in the order has the lowest absorbency and the last has the highest absorbency. Based on the analysis of variance (ANOVA), the range of temperature and types of liquid employed in this research do not affect the path length of the liquid movement in the fabric.

Originality/value

This research proposes horizontal and vertical wicking tests as a practical tool to evaluate absorbency property of fabric for the non-medical mask. This research also presents a design of experiment approach to evaluate the effect of the test method, temperature and type of liquid on the path length of the liquid movement in the fabric.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 25 October 2023

Jianping Wang, Jinzhu Shen, Xiaofeng Yao and Fan Zhang

The purpose of this paper is to gain an in-depth understanding into the research progress, hot spots and future trends in smart gripping technology in the field of apparel smart…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to gain an in-depth understanding into the research progress, hot spots and future trends in smart gripping technology in the field of apparel smart manufacturing.

Design/methodology/approach

This work scrutinised the current research status of the five automatic grasping methods for garment fabrics including the pneumatic suction grasping, the electrostatic grasping, the intrusive grasping and the dexterous grasping. Specifically, the principles, characteristics, main devices and the impact on garment production were discussed.

Findings

In particular, soft finger of the dexterous grasping method has good flexibility and adaptability in the process of fabric grasping, which provides a new solution for garment production automation. Up to now, the reviewed method in general exhibit good grasping speed, high grasping stability and flat grasping process. However, in the face of complex fabric materials which are thin and flexible and do not return their original shapes when deformed in practical applications, the gripper for automatic fabric grasping need new technological breakthroughs in the positioning accuracy, grab efficiency and flexible grasping.

Originality/value

The outcomes offered an overview of the research status and future trends of the automatic grasping methods for garment fabrics in the field of apparel intelligent manufacturing. It could not only provide scholars with convenience in identifying research hot spots and building potential cooperation in the follow-up research but also assist beginners in searching core scholars and literature of great significance.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 October 2022

Manoj Kumar Imrith, Satyadev Rosunee and Roshan Unmar

Lightweight, open construction cotton knitted fabrics generally do not impart good protection from solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). As lightweight 100% cotton single jersey is…

Abstract

Purpose

Lightweight, open construction cotton knitted fabrics generally do not impart good protection from solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). As lightweight 100% cotton single jersey is highly cherished for summerwear, it is sine qua non to understand the structural parameters that effectively strike a good balance between UV protection and thermophysiological comfort of the wearer. Relatively heavy fabrics protect from UVR, but comfort is compromised because of waning porosity, increase in thickness and thermal insulation. The purpose of this paper is to engineer knits that will bestow maximum UV protection while preserving the thermophysiological comfort of the wearer.

Design/methodology/approach

In total, 27 cotton single jersey fabrics with different areal densities and yarn counts were selected. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) was calculated based on the work of Imrith (2022). To précis, the authors constructed a UV box to measure the UPF of fabrics, denoted as UPFB. UPFB data were correlated with AATCC 183-2004 and yielded high correlation, R2 0.977. It was concluded that UPF 50 corresponds to UPFB 94.3. Thermal comfort properties were measured on the Alambeta and water-vapour resistance on the Permetest. Linear programming (LP) was used to optimize UPFB and comfort. Linear optimization focused on maximizing UPFB while keeping the thermophysiological comfort and areal density as constraints.

Findings

The resulting linear geometrical and sensitivity analyses generated multiple technically feasible solutions of fabrics thickness and porosity that gave valid UPFB, thermal absorptivity and water-vapour and thermal resistance. Subsequently, an interactive optimization software was developed to predict the stitch length, tightness factor and yarn count for optimum UPFB from a given areal density. The predicted values were then used to knit seven 100% cotton single jersey fabrics and were tested for UV protection. All seven fabrics gave UPFB above the threshold, that is, higher than 94.3. The mathematical model demonstrated good correlations with the optimized parameters and experimental values.

Originality/value

The optimization software predicted the optimum UPFB reasonably well, starting from the fabric structural and constructional parameters. In addition, the models were developed as interactive user interfaces, which can be used by knitted fabric developers to engineer cotton knits for maximizing UV protection without compromising thermophysiological comfort. It has been demonstrated that LP is an efficient tool for the optimization and prediction of targeted knitted fabrics parameters.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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