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Article
Publication date: 31 January 2024

Wiah Wardiningsih, Farhan Aqil Syauqi Pradanta, Ryan Rudy, Resty Mayseptheny Hernawati and Doni Sugiyana

The purpose of this study is to analyse the characteristics of cellulose fibres derived from the pseudo-stems of Curcuma longa and to evaluate the properties of non-woven fabric…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to analyse the characteristics of cellulose fibres derived from the pseudo-stems of Curcuma longa and to evaluate the properties of non-woven fabric produced using these fibres.

Design/methodology/approach

The fibres were extracted via a decortication method. The acquired intrinsic qualities of the fibres were used to assess the feasibility of using them in textile applications. The thermal bonding approach was used for the development of the non-woven fabric, using a hot press machine with low-melt polyester fibre as a binder.

Findings

The mean length of Curcuma longa fibres was determined to be 52.73 cm, with a fineness value of 4.00 tex. The fibres exhibited an uneven cross-sectional morphology, characterized by a diverse range of oval-shaped lumens. The fibre exhibited a tenacity of 1.45 g/denier and an elongation value of 4.30%. The fibres possessed a moisture regain value of 11.30%. The experimental non-woven fabrics had consistent weight and thickness, while exhibiting different properties in terms of tensile strength and air permeability, with Fabric C having the highest tensile strength and the lowest air permeability value.

Originality/value

The features of Curcuma longa fibre, obtained with the decortication process, exhibited suitability for textile applications. Three experimental non-woven fabrics comprising different compositions of Curcuma longa fibre and low-melt polyester fibre were produced. The tensile strength and air permeability properties of these fabrics were influenced by the composition of the fibres.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 24 January 2023

Raphael Kanyire Seidu, Shou-xiang Jiang, Benjamin Tawiah, Richard Acquaye and Ebenezer Kofi Howard

The purpose of this study is to present a systematic review of the effects of COVID-19 on the conventional textile production subsector. The emergence of the COVID-19 virus in…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to present a systematic review of the effects of COVID-19 on the conventional textile production subsector. The emergence of the COVID-19 virus in 2019 has subsequently caused many problems, such as unemployment, business closures, economic instability and high volatility in the global capital markets amongst others within the wider manufacturing industry including textile production.

Design/methodology/approach

Relevant secondary data are obtained from the Scopus database and Statista. Based on the data analysis of 21 seed articles, three research themes are identified: challenges in the textile industry, new material innovations or solutions and the textile industry performance.

Findings

The results reveal that the COVID-19 pandemic has affected the textile industry, disrupted the supply chains of this industry, affected profit margins, stopped employment and impacted the retail of products to customers. Aside from the negative repercussions, there are also good sides to the pandemic which, for instance, range from advanced material innovations to textiles with anti-microbial, self-cleaning and anti-bacterial properties that would limit the transfer of the virus.

Practical implications

Findings reinforced the need for effective strategies and investments in the research and development departments of the various firms in the textile industry to innovate operations and novel materials for the next global pandemic.

Originality/value

Many companies have adopted novel strategies and practices that are helping them to survive the pandemic. This study, therefore, recommends further investigation into material innovations and reimagining strategies by companies and the supply chain within the textile industry so that it is protected against future crises.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 13 April 2023

Meenakshi Ahirwar and Bijoya Kumar Behera

Denim fabric has become a wardrobe staple due to its versatility to be worn in a variety of fashions. This paper aims to study denim fabrics to understand their unique hand by…

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Abstract

Purpose

Denim fabric has become a wardrobe staple due to its versatility to be worn in a variety of fashions. This paper aims to study denim fabrics to understand their unique hand by developing a hand evaluation system using computational method. Also, the effect of various washes was studied on the hand and surface morphology of denim fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

Five different denim samples were manufactured with various washing treatments. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the low stress mechanical properties. Computation method was used to develop hand equations using multiple regression technique in the MS Excel software. The correlation coefficient analysis was done to determine the authenticity of the developed equations. Five primary hand attributes such as softness, smoothness, fullness, flexibility and stretchability were shortlisted by a panel of judges that influence the fabric handle.

Findings

The correlation coefficient between subjective and computational total hand values with thermal properties and without thermal properties was 0.88 and 0.85, respectively. The enzymatic wash fabric has the highest total hand value followed by the acid, bleach and stone-washed fabrics.

Originality/value

Although the hand evaluation system is available for conventional textiles like suiting and shirting fabrics, the method to predict fabric hand of non-conventional textiles such as denim fabrics remains an unexplored topic. The stresses acting on denim fabrics are completely different. Therefore, to the best of the author’s knowledge, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to develop a computational model to predict the total hand value of denim fabrics.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 November 2023

Fareha Asim, Farhana Naeem and Shenela Naqvi

Face masks are the most recommended precautionary measure since the emergence of SARS-CoV-2 since 2020 and the most useful PPE against this virus and its variants so far. This…

Abstract

Purpose

Face masks are the most recommended precautionary measure since the emergence of SARS-CoV-2 since 2020 and the most useful PPE against this virus and its variants so far. This study aims to develop reusable and biodegradable mask from 100% regenerated bamboo or/and its blend. Selection of natural and regenerated textile materials is to minimize generation of solid waste. This attempt will eventually protect our earth by minimizing or better discontinuing the production of the disposable nonbiodegradable face masks available worldwide.

Design/methodology/approach

Hundred percent regenerated bamboo and 50:50 bamboo:cotton were selected to knit plain and interlock fabrics for manufacturing of reusable sustainable face masks. A 23 32-mixed-level factorial design was applied to study the effect of liquor ratio and temperatures, fabric structure, blend ratios and finishes at three different levels. Model 23 32 has two factors (liquor ratio and temperatures) at three levels and three factors (fabric structure, blend ratios and type of finish) at two levels. Knitted fabrics were then applied with antibacterial finishes; sanitized T99-19 and sanitized T27-22, separately at three different liquor ratios (1:10, 1:12 and 1:15) and temperatures (45, 55 and 65 °C) via exhaust method. After completing processing, fabric thickness, pilling resistance, dimensional stability, bursting strength, Berger whiteness index, air permeability and antibacterial properties of each trial were evaluated using standard test procedures.

Findings

Selected fabrics treated either by sanitized T27 or sanitized T99 in a liquor ratio of 1:15 against 65 °C, showed excellent bacteriostatic/bactericidal activity. However, 100% regenerated bamboo interlock knitted fabric treated with sanitized T99 in a liquor ratio of 1:15 at 65 °C has the most desired values of dimensional stability, pilling resistance, Berger whiteness, fabric thickness, air permeability and bursting strength which made it the best for the manufacturing of the masks. Reusable mask is comprised of three layers in which the first and the third layers were of selected 100% regenerated bamboo fabric while a PM2.5 filter was inserted in between. Bacterial filtration efficiency, particle filtration efficiency, biocompatibility and microbial cleanliness will be evaluated in future, to compare the performance of proposed reusable and biodegradable face mask with N95 masks and other fabric masks available commercially.

Originality/value

This study resulted in a development of reusable eco-friendly facemask which was not attempted by the preceding investigations. Outcomes of this work pave the way for a greener and safer earth by using easily obtainable regenerated bamboo fabrics, antibacterial finishes and knitted structures.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 19 May 2023

Soliyana Gebeyaw, Kura Alemayehu Beyene, Eradu Seid, Zemzem Mustofa and Gideon K. Rotich

This study aims to manufacture alternative window shutters using waste cotton fabrics by stiffening using polyvinyl acetate (PVA) with vinyl acrylic binder solutions.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to manufacture alternative window shutters using waste cotton fabrics by stiffening using polyvinyl acetate (PVA) with vinyl acrylic binder solutions.

Design/methodology/approach

The manufactured fabrics were evaluated for their tensile strength, drapeability, bending length by weight and color fastness to light. And finally, an analysis of variance was done for each parameter.

Findings

As the percent of PVA with a vinyl acrylic solution and the number of layers increased, the tensile strength, drape coefficient (percent), bending length (cm), and color fastness to light increased in both directions. The percent of PVA with a vinyl acrylic solution and the number of layers are statistically significant for each response such as tensile strength, drape coefficient (percent), bending length (cm), color fastness to light and water repellency at a 95% confidence interval. Tensile strength, drape coefficient (%) and bending length (cm) are always greater in the warp direction than in the weft direction. The tensile strength, drape coefficient (percent), bending length (cm) and color fastness to light of treated fabrics samples are greater than those of the untreated fabrics.

Originality/value

The factory waste fabrics can be recycled into window shutters which will provide the cheaper raw material for window shutter manufacturers.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 12 January 2023

Manoj Kumar Paras, Rudrajeet Pal and Daniel Ekwall

The process of redesigning is one of the essential steps in upcycling, which comprises ideation, reconstruction and fitting. This paper aims to study the best practice of…

Abstract

Purpose

The process of redesigning is one of the essential steps in upcycling, which comprises ideation, reconstruction and fitting. This paper aims to study the best practice of upcycling in the clothing industry. This study is an attempt to standardise upcycling/redesign process.

Design/methodology/approach

An exploratory approach was adopted to perform the research. This study draws on the multiple organisations involved in the upcycling of clothes. The organisations chosen for this study are located in Sweden and Romania using the snowball technique. Semi-structured interviews, direct and participatory observation approaches were used to collect information. The collected data are systematically analysed using NVivo 10 software.

Findings

This paper provides empirical insights into the diverse practices of upcycling. Process, product and demand-based were three fundamental approaches to performing the redesigning process. The fabric quality and durability, variations in size, colour and pattern, skills and efforts required in the extraction of parts and environmental consciousness and awareness were the main factors influencing upcycling process.

Research limitations/implications

The use of the European case may miss best practices from the other region. This study may help scholars to understand the method of upcycling. A practitioner of upcycling can use the findings to improve and standardise the existing process. This research is beneficial for society, as this leads to the reduction of textile wastage.

Originality/value

This paper conceptualises some of the best practices of clothes redesign. This provides a good insight for the organisation for the improvement in the redesign business.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 26 March 2024

Vishal Mishra, Ch Kapil Ror, Sushant Negi and Simanchal Kar

This study aims to present an experimental approach to develop a high-strength 3D-printed recycled polymer composite reinforced with continuous metal fiber.

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Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to present an experimental approach to develop a high-strength 3D-printed recycled polymer composite reinforced with continuous metal fiber.

Design/methodology/approach

The continuous metal fiber composite was 3D printed using recycled and virgin acrylonitrile butadiene styrene-blended filament (RABS-B) in the ratio of 60:40 and postused continuous brass wire (CBW). The 3D printing was done using an in-nozzle impregnation technique using an FFF printer installed with a self-modified nozzle. The tensile and single-edge notch bend (SENB) test samples are fabricated to evaluate the tensile and fracture toughness properties compared with VABS and RABS-B samples.

Findings

The tensile and SENB tests revealed that RABS-B/CBW composite 3D printed with 0.7 mm layer spacing exhibited a notable improvement in Young’s modulus, ultimate tensile strength, elongation at maximum load and fracture toughness by 51.47%, 18.67% and 107.3% and 22.75% compared to VABS, respectively.

Social implications

This novel approach of integrating CBW with recycled thermoplastic represents a significant leap forward in material science, delivering superior strength and unlocking the potential for advanced, sustainable composites in demanding engineering fields.

Originality/value

Limited research has been conducted on the in-nozzle impregnation technique for 3D printing metal fiber-reinforced recycled thermoplastic composites. Adopting this method holds the potential to create durable and high-strength sustainable composites suitable for engineering applications, thereby diminishing dependence on virgin materials.

Details

Rapid Prototyping Journal, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1355-2546

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 28 November 2023

Rudrajeet Pal and Erik Sandberg

The purpose of this study is to explore the antecedents of uncaptured sustainable value and strategies to generate opportunities to capture it in the circular supply chain of…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this study is to explore the antecedents of uncaptured sustainable value and strategies to generate opportunities to capture it in the circular supply chain of post-consumer used clothing.

Design/methodology/approach

This study is based on an inductive analysis of 21 semi-structured interviews conducted with various stakeholders in the circular clothing supply chain (for-profit and not-for-profit) using the value mapping approach, as previously applied in the literature on sustainable business models.

Findings

Fifteen antecedents of uncaptured sustainable value, and thirteen value opportunity strategies were revealed that hinder or generate multi-dimensional value types. Economic value is impacted the most, while there is lack of explicit understanding of the impact of these antecedents and strategies on environmental and social value capture. From a multi-stakeholder perspective, the ecosystem is emerging as new for-profit actors are developing novel process technologies, while not-for-profit actors are consolidating their positions by offering new service options. There is also an emerging “coopetition” between the different stakeholders.

Research limitations/implications

More granularity in the different types of uncaptured value could be considered, and external supply chain stakeholders, such as the government, could be included, leading to more detailed value mapping.

Practical implications

This research provides practitioners with a value-mapping tool in circular clothing supply chains, thus providing a structured approach to explore, analyse and understand uncaptured value and value opportunities.

Originality/value

This extended value perspective draws upon the value-mapping approach from the sustainable business model literature and applies it in the context of the circular clothing supply chain. In doing so, this research illustrates circular clothing supply chains in a new way that facilitates an improved understanding of multi-dimensional and multi-stakeholder value for embedded actors.

Details

The International Journal of Logistics Management, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0957-4093

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 19 June 2023

Fatma Altuntas

The textile sector is one of the sectors where competition is intense and requires the production of high-value-added products. This study aims to conduct patent analysis to find…

Abstract

Purpose

The textile sector is one of the sectors where competition is intense and requires the production of high-value-added products. This study aims to conduct patent analysis to find the technology status, recent trends, applications and technological evaluations of protective textile technologies in practice.

Design/methodology/approach

More than 36,840 patent documents related to protective textile technologies are available for researchers, patent examiners and patent researchers. Patent analysis is conducted to report the technology status, recent trends and applications of protective textile technologies. This analysis provides insights into the possible future directions of protective textile technologies in practice. Additionally, association rule mining (ARM) is performed to find the hidden patterns among protective textile technologies.

Findings

The development of protective textile technologies is revealed by the technology evaluation in this study. In addition, the sub-technology classes affecting protective textile technologies are examined using the cooperative patent classification (CPC) codes of the patent documents. Technology status and recent trends of protective textile technologies are provided in detail. The results of this study show that (1) protective textile technologies are constantly being developed, (2) the working areas of medical protective textiles are increasing, (3) there are frequent studies on fabric structures for saving lives within the framework of human needs and (4) there are four technology classes, namely A41D, Y10T, B32B and A62B impacting the other technology classes related to textile technologies such as D10B, Y10T, F41H, A62D, D04H, Y10S and D10B.

Originality/value

To have a competitive advantage in the marketplace, evaluation of textile technologies is critical in developing “functionalized” and “technologized” textile products. In particular, evaluating technologies in developing protective textile products is extremely important to meet customer demands and present competitive products in the market. Examining these patents for technology developers, decision-makers and policymakers is an urgent and necessary job. However, studies examining the development of protective textile technologies with patent analysis are very limited in the literature. To fill this gap, technology status, recent trends and applications of protective textile technologies are reported based on patent analysis and ARM in this study.

Details

Kybernetes, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0368-492X

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 January 2023

Hung Ngoc Phan, Huong Mai Bui and Nguyen Khanh Vu

Bacterial cellulose (BC) is an ideal alternative filtering material. However, current functionalization approaches for BC have not been fully discovered industrially as well as…

Abstract

Purpose

Bacterial cellulose (BC) is an ideal alternative filtering material. However, current functionalization approaches for BC have not been fully discovered industrially as well as academically applying textile processing. This study aims to create a sustainable fabric-like membrane made of BC/activated carbon (AC) for applications in filtration using textile padding method, to protect people from respiratory pandemics.

Design/methodology/approach

Fabric-like BC is first mechanically dehydrated then AC is loaded via a textile padding step. The finishing efficacy, properties of fabric-like BC/AC and NaOH pretreatment are analyzed and characterized by scanning electron microscope (SEM), field emission scanning electron microscope (FE SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD), CIELab color space, color strength (K/S), nitrogen adsorption-desorption isotherm including Brunauer–Emmett–Teller (BET) specific surface area and Barrett–Joyner–Halenda (BJH) pore size and volume.

Findings

This research results in a fabric-like BC/AC with pore diameters of 3.407 ± 0.310 nm, specific surface area of 115.28 m2/g and an efficient scalable padding process, which uses 8 times less amount of chemical and nearly 30 times shorter treating duration than conventional methods.

Practical implications

Our globe is now consuming an alarming amount of non-degradable disposable masks resulting in massive trash buildup as a future environmental problem. Besides, current disposable masks requiring a significant upfront technological investment have posed challenges in human protection from respiratory diseases, especially for countries with limited conditions. By combining a sustainable material (BC) with popular padding method of textile industry, the fabric-like BC/AC will offer sustainable and practical values for both humankind and nature.

Originality/value

This research has offered an effective padding process to functionalize BC, and a unique fabric-like BC/AC membrane for filtration applications.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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