Search results

1 – 10 of over 4000
Article
Publication date: 1 December 1999

Evangelos Liasi, Ruxu Du, Dan Simon, Jasmina Bujas‐Dimitrejevic and Frank Liburdi

This paper presents an experimental study on needle heating in sewing heavy materials such as upholstery fabrics. In the experiments, infrared (IR) radiometry, high speed line…

Abstract

This paper presents an experimental study on needle heating in sewing heavy materials such as upholstery fabrics. In the experiments, infrared (IR) radiometry, high speed line scanning IR radiometry, and high speed IR radiometry are used to obtain thermal images of the needle during sewing. In particular, IR radiometry was used in lower speed sewing (approximately 500rpm). High speed IR and high speed line scanning IR radiometry were used for medium speed sewing (1,000‐2,000rpm). Using Taguchi’s design of experiment method, the effects of various factors are studied including needle conditions (sharp or blunt), sewing speeds, number of stitches per inch, material being sewn, and thread tension. It is found that even with air vortex cooling the needle may still reach high enough temperatures that may affect the sewing quality and even cause thread breakage. This was confirmed via a thread tensile testing experiment. An empirical model of the mean needle temperature is also proposed and tested.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 11 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 March 1996

G. Chen and A.E. Davies

The electric stress profiles of a needle‐plane electrode system used in the laboratory for investigation of tree initiation and growth have been studied. Results from analytical…

Abstract

The electric stress profiles of a needle‐plane electrode system used in the laboratory for investigation of tree initiation and growth have been studied. Results from analytical solution based on a hyperboloid shaped needle tend to differ from those from experiments. One reason is that in practice it is difficult to produce a needle of such a shape. Moreover, researchers have used various shaped needles for their tests. Presents the effects of these needle parameters on the electric stress profile. To simulate the presence of space charge, examines two models, i.e. spherical and cylindrical regions around the tip. For simplicity, the space charge was assumed to be uniformly distributed in the confined region. Results show that space charges can enhance or reduce the electric stress adjacent to the needle tip depending on the nature of the applied voltage.

Details

COMPEL - The international journal for computation and mathematics in electrical and electronic engineering, vol. 15 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0332-1649

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 12 June 2009

Vinay Kumar Midha, V.K. Kothari, R. Chatopadhyay and A. Mukhopadhyay

In this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, needle and fabric, and the bobbin thread interaction on the changes in the tensile properties of the needle thread are to be…

Abstract

Purpose

In this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, needle and fabric, and the bobbin thread interaction on the changes in the tensile properties of the needle thread are to be investigated.

Design/methodology/approach

Tensile properties of the needle thread have been studied at four sewing stages, namely before being subjected to any loading, after dynamic loading, before bobbin thread interaction and after sewing.

Findings

It is observed that bobbin thread interaction plays a dominant role in the reduction of tensile properties except breaking elongation in cotton threads. Dynamic loading is mainly responsible for reduction in the breaking elongation of cotton threads. During sewing, there is an increase in initial modulus due to the dynamic loading, which is more in the case of cotton threads than polyester threads. However, the impact of dynamic loading on tenacity, breaking elongation and breaking energy is greater for coarser cotton thread. The contribution of bobbin thread interaction is more for fine threads as compared to coarse threads.

Practical implications

Since seam strength is dependent on the thread strength, a reduction in thread strength during sewing will lead to lower seam strength than expected. Therefore, in order to minimize the thread strength reduction, it is important to understand the contribution of different machine elements or processes during sewing. During high‐speed sewing, the dynamic and thermal loading are found to be the major causes of strength reduction of needle thread, which can go up to 30‐40 per cent. However, the extent of strength loss at different sewing stages is unknown.

Originality/value

The study will help in engineering sewing threads, designing of sewing machines and selection of process parameters for controlling loss of useful properties of sewing threads.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 21 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 October 2001

Qinwen Li, Evangelos Liasi, Dan Simon and Ruxu Du

This is the second part of our study on needle heating in heavy industrial sewing. In this part, a finite element analysis (FEA) model is presented. Using a commercial FEA…

Abstract

This is the second part of our study on needle heating in heavy industrial sewing. In this part, a finite element analysis (FEA) model is presented. Using a commercial FEA software system, ANSYS, the needle is modeled by a number of 3D bar elements and the sewing process is modeled by a series of time and space dependent boundary conditions. The model considers various important factors such as the needle geometry (including the point angle and point length of the needle), the friction between the needle and the fabric, the friction between the needle eye and the thread, the fabrics’ material property, and the sewing conditions. It can predict needle heating in high accuracy. In order to validate the model, a large number of experiments were conducted, in which the needle temperatures were measured using infrared radiometry. It is found that the simulation results match the experiment results very well. Finally, a number of suggestions to reduce the needle heating are presented.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 13 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 August 1998

Zoran Stjepanovic and Helena Strah

Selection of suitable sewing needle is one of the most important parameters for ensuring an effective and fault‐free sewing process. This task requires good knowledge of basic…

742

Abstract

Selection of suitable sewing needle is one of the most important parameters for ensuring an effective and fault‐free sewing process. This task requires good knowledge of basic characteristics of a sewing needle, i.e. needle type, point shape and needle fineness. Also good knowledge of sewing materials is required. The contribution presents an analysis of important parameters that influence the sewing needle selection in women’s underwear production. The importance of those parameters in ensuring the appropriate seam quality is described. The selection of a suitable sewing needle was carried out on the basis of analysis of influential sewing parameters with application of machine learning from examples.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 10 no. 3/4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 May 1998

Stepan V. Lomov

Proposes an algorithm for the computation of maximum needle penetration force; it introduces the direct dependence of penetration force on fabric structural parameters and warp…

Abstract

Proposes an algorithm for the computation of maximum needle penetration force; it introduces the direct dependence of penetration force on fabric structural parameters and warp and weft geometrical and mechanical properties. Uses the approach to the simulation of local deformation of woven material which accounts for the thread resistance to crimp change and friction forces when the thread is shifted from its original position in the fabric structure as the result of its interaction with a needle. The resistance of threads to tension caused by a needle pushing them from their straight‐line paths is also accounted for. The resulting formulae give the dependence of needle penetration force for a plain‐woven fabric on the following parameters: needle diameter and surface angle; warp and weft spacing, dimensions, crimp height and bending rigidity; friction coefficients thread‐thread and thread‐needle. For a non‐plain‐woven fabric the linear dependence of penetration force on the fabric tightness is suggested. The comparison with the published and specially measured penetration force data proves the predictive ability of the model to be qualitatively accurate and quantitatively reasonable.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 10 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Book part
Publication date: 23 September 2005

David E. Bloom, Ajay Mahal and Brendan O’Flaherty

Injecting drug use (IDU) has traditionally been seen as a law enforcement problem and a stain on society. With the emergence of human immunodeficiency virus (HIV)/acquired immune…

Abstract

Injecting drug use (IDU) has traditionally been seen as a law enforcement problem and a stain on society. With the emergence of human immunodeficiency virus (HIV)/acquired immune deficiency syndrome (AIDS), however, the discourse on IDU has widened to include crucial public health and human rights concerns. Economic analysis, too, has much to contribute to the policy debate. By examining the costs and benefits of drug use from the perspective of injecting drug users, economic analysis can shed light on the problem of IDU and the transmission of HIV among users. This chapter also presents new results on the economic analysis of needle exchange programmes.

Details

Substance Use: Individual Behaviour, Social Interactions, Markets and Politics
Type: Book
ISBN: 978-1-84950-361-7

Article
Publication date: 20 May 2022

Esra Zeynep Yıldız and Oktay Pamuk

This paper suggests a new method for determining the sewing damage that occurs in single jersey fabrics based on the calculation of the needle hole area. This paper also aims to…

Abstract

Purpose

This paper suggests a new method for determining the sewing damage that occurs in single jersey fabrics based on the calculation of the needle hole area. This paper also aims to investigate the effects of material type, sewing parameters, and repeated washing cycles on sewing damage by using this method.

Design/methodology/approach

Six knitted fabrics, differing in structure and raw material, were produced. Samples were sewn using different sewing parameters, and they were subjected to ten washing cycles. Values of average needle hole area, an objective indicator of sewing damage, were calculated before and after repeated washing cycles using image analysis software and were evaluated statistically.

Findings

The results showed that the average needle hole area calculated via the image analysis software effectively estimates sewing damage as the results obtained were compatible with those stated in the literature. Furthermore, fabric type, sewing direction, sewing thread type, and needle size significantly affected the sewing damage. However, stitch density did not affect the sewing damage. When the effect of washing cycles was compared, it was seen that washing leads to an increase in sewing damage.

Originality/value

A review of the existing literature shows that no previous study has evaluated sewing damage using image analysis software. This study proposes a novel objective method to determine the sewing damage that occurs in knitted fabrics.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 34 no. 5
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 8 May 2018

Awadhesh Kumar Choudhary, Monica Puri Sikka and Payal Bansal

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this review paper is to define the dominating factors (such as fiber, yarn, fabric structure, sewing thread, sewing needle and machine parameters) that affect the seam damages and causing defects. It also describes the various explanations of sewing defects in garment production and critically analyzes them for optimum selection of parameters and speeds for minimizing such faults. Hence, the knowledge of various factors which affect the sewing damages/defects will be helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to know influence of the parameters and control the quality of producing seam.

Design/methodology/approach

This section is not applicable for a review paper.

Findings

Sewing damages such as needle cut and other sewing damages/defects are studied mostly in woven fabric. There are very few studies conducted on knitted fabric sewing damages/defects. The sewing damage problems do not have single solution that is capable of removing these damages in fabric. All the determined and affecting parameters related to fiber, yarn, fabric construction, sewing thread and sewing machine must be examined to design appropriate remedial measurement related to machine design, fabric parameters and sewing thread. This could help in minimizing or eliminating the needle cut and other sewing damage problems.

Originality/value

It is an original review work and is helpful for garment manufacturers/researchers to reduce the defects and be able to produce good quality seam.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 22 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 October 2021

Esra Zeynep Yıldız and Oktay Pamuk

The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric…

Abstract

Purpose

The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric into the garment and actual performance of the sewn fabric during wear of the garment. The adjustment of all sewing parameters is necessary to ensure quality. The purpose of this paper is to define the parameters that affect seam quality comprehensively.

Design/methodology/approach

This study primarily focuses on the studies dealing with the effect of various parameters on-seam quality in detail. A systematic literature review was conducted.

Findings

The interactions between parameters may lead to different results than the effect of a single parameter. In addition, changing some parameters may have a positive effect on one element of seam quality while having a negative effect on another. For this reason, it is very important to properly select the parameters according to the specific end use of the garment products and also to consider the interactions.

Originality/value

The knowledge of various factors that affect seam quality will be helpful for manufacturers to improve production performance and to be able to produce high-quality seam.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 25 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

1 – 10 of over 4000