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The present study has employed a high performance liquid chromatographic method coupled with a diode array detector (HPLC-DAD) to identify the dyestuffs in textile samples collected from the Coptic Museum in Cairo and the Museum of Jordanian Heritage. The results indicate that mixtures of organic dyes are used in dyeing these samples to produce different colours. The most dominantly identified colourants in samples collected from the Museum of Jordanian Heritage are laccaic acid, kermesic acid, munjistin and indigotin. The most dominantly identified dyestuffs are lac dye (Kerria lacca, Kerr), kermes (Kermes vermilio), madder (Rubia) species and indigoid dye source, either indigo (Indigofera species) or woad (Isatis tinctoria L.). These results confirm the historical information in the Museum of Jordanian Heritage in that the tested textile objects date back to the end of the 19^th century or the beginning of the 20^th century. The most dominantly identified colourants in samples collected from the Coptic Museum are alizarin, purpurin, and indigotin. The most dominantly identified dyestuffs are madder and indigotin. Based on this investigation, it is concluded that the tested dyed samples collected from the Coptic Museum belong to the 6-7^th centuries. This conclusion is in agreement with the initial dating of samples according to the style of the decorations.

Commercial natural dyes are quite costly as manufacturers are to follow multi-step extraction and purification procedures for standardisation purposes. Upon cost comparison, they lose in the market to synthetic dyes. However, in the handicraft sector, reproducibility may be of lesser importance against cost. In the present study, a domestic method of dyeing silk with the aqueous extract of raw plant/tree components (flower, leave, bark and root) by using a natural mordant and alum will be described. Good dyebath exhaustion and washing and light fastness are observed for some of the natural colouring matters.

Identification and characterization of organic pigments and dyes used in works of art and cultural heritage material such as prints, drawings, manuscripts, paintings, and textiles can provide important information for dating, authentication, and conservation treatment of these objects and studying art history in general. Applications of surface‐enhanced Raman scattering (SERS) for this purpose have recently attracted increasing attention of both academic scientists and museum researchers. This paper aims to review the latest development involving the emerging applications of SERS for the analysis of organic pigments and dyes used in works of art and cultural heritage material.

First, the importance of organic pigments and dyes in the studies of works of art and cultural heritage material and the challenges in their identification and characterization are briefly summarized. This is followed by a discussion on sampling considerations in the context of art and archaeology. Then the fundamental principle of SERS, SERS instrumentation and different types of SERS substrates are reviewed. Finally, selected examples of SERS applications to the identification of organic pigments and dyes, including the analysis of a couple of samples of artistic and archaeological interest, are presented and discussed.

The last few years have witnessed the emergence of SERS as a non‐destructive or micro‐destructive technique for the characterization of organic pigments and dyes found in artistic and archaeological objects. Spectroscopic and microscopic measurements using SERS have provided some novel information and answers to a wide variety of questions. However, SERS application to the field of art and archaeology is still in the fledging stage of development and requires closer collaboration between academic scientists and museum researchers. But the range of possible applications is broad. Future trends point to a strong need for the development of portable instruments for field applications.

By compiling this review, the authors hope to direct more attention toward SERS and bring together the expertise in the scientific, museum and art community to further explore the possibilities of SERS in rapid and direct identification of pigments and dyes under field conditions.

Examines the tenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

This study aims to improve the natural dyeing recipe with better light fastness using ascorbic acid (vitamin C) with pulverised plant dyes.

Silk fabrics pre-mordanted with alum (aluminium ammonium sulphate) were dyed using six types of plant dyes available in Sarawak, Malaysia, namely, Engkerabai leaves (Psychotria viridiflora), Ketapang leaves (Terminalia catappa), mangrove bark (Ceriops tagal), Sepang wood (Caesalpinia sappan), mangosteen husk (Garcinia mangostana) and onion skin (Allium cepa). Then, the dyed samples were immersed in vitamin C. The dyed and vitamin C-treated silk samples were exposed to direct sunlight for 40 h to test whether vitamin C had any effect on the light fastness of the dyed samples.

It was found that the fabric samples using vitamin C for after-treatment, particularly Engkerabai, Ketapang, mangrove and mangosteen, exhibited better light fastness. The colours of the four samples changed and looked darker when compared to the non-treated fabric samples. However, it was observed that vitamin C had a reverse effect on Sepang wood and onion skin. The acidic aqueous solution of vitamin C discharged the dyed samples instead.

In conclusion, depending on the plant types, vitamin C can be used to improve the light fastness of natural dyes or as a reducing agent for natural dyes.

Wool yarns are dyed with natural colouring matter that is extracted from cochineal, turmeric and madder, and mordanted with different mordants by using the exhaustion method. Many measurements of mordanted dyed wool samples have been carried out after exposure to air and light for different periods of time in the time frame of one year in an urban area (Helwan city). The variables that are measured include changes in colour and physical properties (tensile strength, tenacity and elongation) of mordanted dyed wool samples. Also, air pollution in Helwan city is determined by studying suspended and deposited particulate matter and sulpher dioxide concentrations.

The purpose of this study is to investigate the physical, ultraviolet (UV), colour appearance and colour fastness properties of selected fabrics dyed with natural dyes from Daboya and Ntonso communities of Ghana. The study further highlights the rich cultural heritage of traditional dyeing from these two communities. Craftsmen in West Africa especially Ghana, have sustained the traditional dyeing methods to produce textile products for consumers.

In this study, two sample fabrics were purchased from craftsmen at Ntonso and Daboya communities in Ghana. These fabrics were analysed at the laboratory under standard test methods for their physical, UV, colour appearance and colour fastness properties.

Results showed that all the sample fabrics have good UV shielding performance (ratings above 50+). Daboya sample fabrics (dyed with indigo dyes) produced more colour stains than the sample fabrics from Ntonso (dyed with black “kuntunkuni” dyes). The K/S_sum value or colour yield reduced after washing but that alternatively increased the calculated ultraviolet protection factor.

Findings from this study exposed the unique UV performance of dyed traditional fabrics (using natural dyes) from Ntonso and Daboya communities in Ghana. This inspires and enforces the need for craftsmen to improve their production cycle to produce these fabrics in different sizes which provides the necessary UV shielding abilities for consumers in the wake of climate changes.

This study demonstrated that the natural dyeing process at the two communities produced relatively good UV and colour fastness properties of the sample fabrics. These eco-friendly dyeing practices have survived over time to maintain and promote the concept of sustainability within the textile and fashion industry in Ghana.

Examines the thirteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

The purpose of this paper is to establish a suitable procedure for producing antimicrobial 100 per cent cotton textiles using zinc pyrithione. Zinc pyrithione being bacteriostatic in nature is eco-friendly and safe, both for manufacturer to apply and consumer to use.

After conducting laboratory trials, bulk trial has also been conducted, and efficacy of zinc pyrithione as bacteriostatic has been quantitatively determined. The durability of antimicrobial finish was also checked before and after repeated domestic laundry.

The findings indicated that it is possible to produce durable antimicrobial 100 per cent cotton textiles in bulk using zinc pyrithione.

Any exporting textile processing mill can directly use the findings of this work and can produce antimicrobial textiles in their factory.

Any exporting textile mill can increase their export earnings by producing antimicrobial textiles. The antimicrobial textiles are in great demand in Asia-Pacific region and have already touched exports of US$497.4m in 2015 and is projected to reach US$1,076.1m by 2026.

The textile user can get protection against pathogenic or odour-causing microorganisms using this hygiene finish in different end uses.

The work is original. Very few references are available on zinc pyrithione. First, laboratory studies were done, and bacteriostatic properties of zinc pyrithione were determined quantitatively followed by bulk trial.

Discusses the 6th ITCRR, its breadth of textile and clothing research activity, plus the encouragement given to workers in this field and its related areas. States that, within the newer research areas under the microscope of the community involved, technical textiles focuses on new, ‘smart’ garments and the initiatives in this field in both the UK and the international community at large. Covers this subject at length.