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This work aims to study the effect of mordanting method as pre-mordanting (on-chrome), meta-mordanting (meta-chrome) and post-mordanting (after-chrome) on wool dyeing with madder natural dye without tannin and pomegranates peel, as a natural dye contains tannin.

The woolen yarn was dyed with madder and pomegranate peel natural dyes by three methods as pre-mordant, meta-mordant and pos-mordant. The color parameters and reflectance spectra of dyed samples were analyzed by using derivative spectroscopy and the principal component analysis (PCA) techniques.

The obtained results indicate that the color difference between the samples dyed with madder by pre-mordanting, and the samples dyed by other methods is more than the color difference between the samples dyed by meta-mordanting and post-mordanting. However, the color difference between samples dyed with pomegranate peel by pre-mordanting and meta-mordanting methods is less compared to other pairs. Also, analysis of reflectance spectra and color depth (K/S) values indicate that the color depth of dyed sample with madder by pre-mordanting method is more than other dyeing methods. But, the color depth of sample dyed with pomegranate peel by post-mordanting method is less compared to other methods. The analysis of first-, second-, third- and fourth-order derivatives of reflectance spectra and the study of the first, second, third and fourth PCs of reflectance spectra indicate that the reflectance of dyed samples with madder and pomegranates peel depends on the mordanting method.

Evaluation of the effect of mordanting method on color and reflectance of wool dyed with madder and pomegranates peel natural dyes using derivative spectroscopy and the PCA techniques

The purpose of this study is to extract and characterize a novel natural dye from the leaves of Lannea coromandelica and the extraction with finding ways of dyeing cotton fabric using three mordants.

The colouring agents were extracted from the leaves of Lannea coromandelica using an aqueous extraction method. The extract was characterized using analysis methods of pH, gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), Fourier transform infrared (FTIR), ultraviolet-visible (UV-vis) and cyclic voltammetry measurement. The extract was applied to cotton fabric samples using a non-mordant and three mordants under the two mordanting methods. The dyeing performance of the extracted colouring agent was evaluated using colour fastness properties, colour strength (K/S) and colour space (CIE Lab).

The aqueous dye extract showed reddish-brown colour, and its pH was 5.94. The GC-MS analysis revealed that the dye extract from the leaves of Lannea coromandelica contained active chemical compounds. The UV-vis and FTIR analyses found that groups influenced the reddish-brown colour of the dye extraction. The cyclic voltammetry measurements discovered the electrochemical properties of the dye extraction. The mordanted fabric samples showed better colour fastness properties than the non-mordanted fabric sample. The K/S and CIE Lab results indicate that the cotton fabric samples dyed with mordants showed more significant dye affinities than non-mordanted fabric samples.

Researchers have never discovered that the Lannea coromandelica leaf extract is a natural dye for cotton fabric dyeing. The findings of this study showed that natural dyes extracted from Lannea coromandelica leaf could be an efficient colouring agent for use in cotton fabric.

Agricultural waste and food sources are some of the pollutants of the environment. One of these wastes is the peel of fruits that cannot be consumed as food. In this regard, walnut husk (WH) and oleaster peel (PO) are known as two important sources of tannin and are bulky wastes. Because of the high percentage of tannin, these materials can be used as a natural source for the preparation of bio-mordant in the dyeing process.

In this study, Reseda and Madder were used as natural dyes in the presence of a mixture of two bio-mordants. WH and PO were selected as bio-mordant. All natural resources are extracted to obtain the juice. The phenolic percentage of tannin-containing extracts was evaluated and then it was used for wool yarns by premordanting method. The results of evaluating the fastness properties using the ISO method.

The most important achievement of this research is the use of agricultural waste in the dyeing process to reduce environmental pollution and create added value. All compounds rich in tannin have some phenolic components, therefore the amount of phenolic content of these extracts was evaluated. The effect of mixing the mordant on the color characteristics of the yarns was investigated and the results showed that changing the ratio of the combination of two mordant is effective on the K/S values. The results of evaluating the fastness properties using the ISO method showed that the washing, rubbing and light fastness in the presence of mordant is good, good and moderate, respectively.

In this paper, to the best of the authors’ knowledge, for the first time, the combination of two natural extracts obtained from agricultural waste has been used to create a new bio-mordant on fibers and improve stability.

This study aims to dye silk with natural pigments extract of Coreopsis tinctoria, by treating the fabrics with appropriate mordant under suitable dyeing conditions, to achieve good dyeing depth, fastness and ultraviolet (UV) protection.

Firstly, single factor experiments were used to determine the basic dyeing conditions of Coreopsis tinctoria. The optimal process conditions for direct dyeing were determined through orthogonal experiments. After that, the dyeing with mordant was used. Based on the previously determined optimal process conditions, silk fabrics were dyed with different mordanting methods, with different mordants and mordant dosages. The dyeing results were compared, in terms of the K/S values of the dyed fabrics, to determine the most appropriate dyeing conditions with mordant.

The extract of Coreopsis tinctoria can dye silk fabrics satisfactorily. Good dyeing depth and fastness can be obtained by using suitable dyeing methods and dyeing conditions, especially when using the natural mordant pomegranate rind and the rare earth mordant neodymium oxide. The silk fabrics dyed with Coreopsis tinctoria have good UV resistance, which allows a desirable finishing effect to be achieved while dyeing, using a safe and environmentally friendly method.

The composition of Coreopsis tinctoria is complex, and the specific composition of colouring the silk fibre has not been determined. There are many factors that affect the dyeing experiment, which have an impact on the experimental results.

The results of this study may help expand the application of Coreopsis tinctoria beyond medicine.

To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this paper is the first report on dyeing silk with the extract of Coreopsis tinctoria achieving good dyeing results. Its depth of staining and staining fastness were satisfactory. Optimum dyeing method and dyeing conditions have been identified. The fabric dyed with Coreopsis tinctoria has good UV protection effect, which is conducive to improving the application value of the dyeing fabric. The findings help offer a new direction for the application of medicinal plants in the eco-friendly dyeing of silk.

This paper aims to evaluate the effects of banana (Musa) peel and guava (Psidium guajava) leaves extract as mordants on jute–cotton union fabrics dyed with onion skin extract as a natural dye.

The dye was extracted from the outer skin of onions by boiling in water and later concentrated. The bio-mordants were prepared by maceration using methanol and ethanol. The fabrics were pre-mordanted, simultaneously mordanted and post-mordanted with various concentrations according to the weight of the fabric. The dyed and mordanted fabrics were later subjected to measurement of color coordinates, color strength and colorfastness to the washing test. Furthermore, the dyed samples were characterized by Fourier transform infrared, and different chemical bonds were analyzed by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy analysis.

Significant improvement was obtained in colorfastness and color strength values in various instances using banana peel and guava leaves as bio mordants. Post-mordanted with banana peel provided the best results for wash fastness. Better color strength was achieved by fabric post-mordanted with guava leave extracts.

Sustainable dyeing methods of natural dyes using banana peel and guava leaves as bio mordants were explored on jute–cotton union fabrics. Improvement in colorfastness and color strength for various instances was observed. Thus, this paper provides a promising alternative to metallic salt mordants.

This paper aims to examine the recipe for and standard methods of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extract. The dyeing of the fabric was performed by immersion it without heating for a short time to obtain the best results.

The dyeing experiment using cotton fabric with jackfruit wood extract was conducted by immersion at room temperature. The independent variables studied were the mordant method, type of mordant, mordant concentration, salt concentration and dyeing pH. The dependent variables were colour strength and colour fastness to washing and rubbing. The orthogonal array L16 (45) was used in the study to obtain the optimal values for each parameter of the response variables. The multi-response signal-to-noise (MRSN) method was used to optimise the five response variables with different quality characteristics so that the best parameters could be obtained based on the highest MRSN ratio value.

The best parameters were obtained at an MRSN value of 4.5254 under A3B3C1D2E4 conditions, namely, the dyeing process with post mordant, aluminium nitrate type mordant, mordant concentration of 10 g/L, salt concentration of 15 g/L and dyeing a pH: of 10. Under these conditions, the value of K/S was obtained at 1.893, colour fastness to washing (GS: 4) and (SS: 4–5), dry rubbing (SS: 5) and wet rubbing (SS: 4–5).

Obtaining a standard recipe and method for dyeing cotton cloth with jackfruit wood extract by immersion without heating is expected to lead to the development of natural dyes, and especially their application on an industrial scale. This standard and method can be used as technical guidelines by industry. The use of aluminum nitrate as a mordant will help achieve optimal dyeing results. The use of polyaluminium chloride (PAC) mordant, which has the potential to produce high colour strength, and papaya fruit sap, which has the capacity to increase colour fastness, still need to be developed to improve the results of natural dyes.

The standard recipe and dyeing method will be able to improve the results of the dyeing of cotton fabrics with natural dyes. Short immersion dyeing without heating and the optimal results obtained are the main attractions for their use by the textile/batik industry, as the process is easier and a lower cost. The results of dyeing with dark colours and good colour fastness mean the textile products are of the higher quality demanded by consumers, thereby increasing sales. This will encourage the use of and increase the need for natural dyes by industry, consequently reducing the use of synthetic dyes.

The use of natural dyes, chemical mordant from aluminum salts, and natural mordant from papaya fruit sap in the dyeing process in the textile/batik industry in Indonesia will produce eco-textile and eco-batik products that are environmentally friendly and of high quality. This in turn will increase consumer interest and sales, meaning that the income and economy of workers in the textile industry/crafts sector will also increase. In addition, the use of natural dyes with the selection of a safe mordant (not containing heavy metals) will reduce the use of synthetic dyes, which pollute and damage the aquatic environment.

This study found a standard recipe and method of dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes from jackfruit wood extracted by immersion without heating for a short time to obtain the best results. In addition, the discovery was of PAC, a new mordant which is effective in the use of natural dyes can give high colour strength to cotton fabric. In addition to the discovery of a new mordant, PAC, which has the potential to produce high colour strength, papaya fruit sap also has the capacity to increase colour fastness with the use of natural dyes from the flavonoid group.

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate the efficacy and kinetics along with diffusion properties of a new source of natural dye obtained from leaves and fine stems of the Sesbania aculeata plant, using metallic mordants for cotton dyeing.

The approach followed in this work is to conduct experiments with the application of the natural dye obtained from Sesbania aculeata plant and to study the kinetics, dye uptake and the diffusion properties of this dye.

Sesbania aculeata with simultaneous mordanting with different metal mordants imparted shades which varied from cream to light brown to dark brown in case of aqueous extract. The different mordants used not only changed the hue colour and K/S values but also L* and brightness index values. The results of fastness properties of the dyes were found to vary from fair to good. The percentage dye exhaustion values varied with different mordants. The dye uptake value increased with time and reached its saturation limit after 4 hours of dyeing. In the absence of mordants, the diffusion coefficient values increased with increase in the temperature. In the presence of mordants, the diffusion process appears to slow down, which could be attributed to the binding effects of mordants.

The extraction and dyeing process of Sesbania aculeata plant is less tedious and time consuming compared to the other sources of natural dyes.

Sesbania aculeata is relatively easier to grow and does not require much tending operations. Thus, it promises to be an affordable source of natural dye. If this dye is commercialised, it will help to generate sustainable employment and income for the farmers in rural and sub-urban areas. This could be both for dyeing and for non-food crop farming.

An advantageous feature of this plant, in contrast to the other natural dyes based on vegetable and fruit sources, is that its usage in making the natural dye does not result in any wastage of an otherwise highly commercial product. The current experimental study on a new source of natural dye would be a significant contribution to the existing database of knowledge regarding the kinetics and diffusion properties of natural dyes. There are several reported studies in the literature pertaining to the application of natural colourants and evaluation of their dyeing properties on various fibers. However, relatively fewer studies exist on the kinetic and exhaustion aspects. Thus, the current study would help to develop a set of predictable settings for application of natural dyes on various textiles.

The purpose of this paper is to reveal the potential use of faba bean husk as natural dye, to create a color gamut and to observe the effect of different mordants. Dyeing properties of polyamide/elastane fabric using faba been husk were investigated. The effect of alum [KAl(SO₄)₂], iron II sulfate Fe(SO₄)7H₂O, tin II chloride (SnCI₂2H₂O), copper II sulfate (CuSO₄), citric acid (C₆H₈O₇), tartaric acid (C₄H₆O₆), oxalic acid (H₂C₂O₄), ammonium sulfate [(NH₄)₂SO₄], sodium acetate (C₂H₃NaO₂), combination of alum-iron, iron-tin and alum-tin were evaluated in terms of color yield, color coordinates and wash fastness.

Mainly, dyeings were conducted in accordance with a simultaneous mordanting method. However, pre-mordanted dyeings were also implemented with selected concentration (0.8 g/L) of metallic mordants to enrich color gamut. Control sample (without mordant) was used as a reference for examining the effect of different mordants. Dyed samples were compared mutually in the light of visual evaluation and color measurements and alternatives to metallic mordants were also assessed.

Significant differences occurred in color coordinates of dyed samples. The biggest color difference and completely different color shades were achieved with tin II chloride. The type of acid did not create visible color differences. As alternatives to metallic mordants; all of them may be used instead of alum (0.8 g/L). Tartaric acid and oxalic acid, instead of iron II sulfate (0.2 g/L), and ammonium sulfate (0.2 g/L) and sodium acetate (0.8 g/L), instead of alum (0.8 g/L), can be used. Sodium acetate cannot be replaced with iron. A combination of alum-iron and iron-tin can be the alternative to 0.2 and 0.8 g/L copper, respectively. All the samples provided good wash fastness (4/5) values.

Valorization of industrial, agricultural and domestic wastes as novel natural dye sources is an ecological and sustainable approach. Moreover, the use of man-made fibers in natural dyeing is an issue that needs to be developed and expanded. Few literatures have been found concerning the use of husks of faba bean as a natural colorant. In this initial study, husks of faba been as a vegetable waste were utilized in natural dyeing of polyamide/elastane fabric. It is suggested that this waste can be turned into an economic value through its valorization in natural dyeing.

The present study aims to focus on the feasibility of using an aqueous extract from the fruit shell of Camellia oleifera Abel as a source of natural colourant in printing-paste preparation for pigment printing of cotton fabric. The effects of pre- and post-mordanting with three common metallic mordants, that is AlK(SO₄)₂, CuSO₄ and FeSO₄ on colour yield and colour fastness properties are also investigated.

The printing paste was prepared by mixing the concentrated Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shell extract solution with commercially available synthetic thickener and binder. The fabric sample was printed with the prepared printing paste using a flat-screen printing technique. To determine the effects of pre- and post-mordanting, AlK(SO₄)₂, CuSO₄ and FeSO₄ mordant aqueous solutions with various concentrations were applied using the pad-dry technique. Comparisons between printing with and without mordants were evaluated in terms of colour strength (K/S values) and colour fastness to washing, light, crocking and perspiration.

Without the mordants, the printed fabric had a yellowish brown shade with acceptable colour fastness properties, that is fair to good wash fastness, moderate light fastness, good to very good crocking fastness and fair to good perspiration fastness. The use of mordants, especially CuSO₄ and FeSO₄, not only enhanced colour strength but also imparted different colours to the fabric. Compared to the unmordanted fabrics, colour fastness properties were mostly comparable or improved in the mordanted fabrics depending on the type and concentration of mordants.

Although in the case of CuSO₄ the light fastness was increased to a good to very good level, it is recommended that the final print be produced with a concentration of less than 0.125 gL⁻¹ to yield the print with the residual amount of Cu metal under the limit, that is less than 50 ppm as regulated by the Oeko-Tex^® standard.

The obtained prints from Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shell extract provided shades with satisfactory colour fastness to washing, light, crocking and perspiration. The extract from Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shell has the potential to be used as an alternative to synthetic dye in the textile industry.

The use of Camellia oleifera Abel fruit shells, which are considered as abundant byproducts of tea seed oil production, as natural colouring agents for pigment printing of cotton fabric has been reported for the first time. It will minimise the environmental impact of this waste and create more valuable textile products.

This paper aims to select a type of mordant from aluminium salts, namely, aluminium sulphate, aluminium nitrate and polyaluminium chloride (PAC) with the lowest potential for contamination so that their use will minimise pollution from natural dye waste. It also aims to determine the pollution value of natural dye immersion waste from jackfruit wood extract, secang wood, mangsi fruit and several synthetic dyes, to identify potential environmental pollution.

Dyeing with natural dyes was performed by exhaust at room temperature by the pre-mordant method, while with synthetic dyes it was performed by exhaust according to the dyeing procedure (reactive, vat and naphthol). The groundwater, mordant solutions, natural dye extract and the waste-water from the natural and synthetic dyes were then tested to determine their biological oxygen demand (BOD₅), chemical oxygen demand (COD), total suspended solids (TSS), pH, Al and heavy metal contents such as chromium (Cr), copper (Cu), cadmium (Cd), nickel (Ni), cobalt (Co) and lead (Pb).

Aluminium sulphate had the lowest pollution load while PAC had the highest, as aluminium sulphate had a higher BOD₅/COD ratio (0.62–0.67) than aluminium nitrate (0.56–0.64) or PAC (0.44–0.54). The dyeing waste from the three natural dyes contained an acidic pH of 3.5–4.2, Al of 75.280–621.34 mg/L, Cr of 0.154–0.215 mg/L and Cu of 0.035–0.072 mg/L. The values of TSS, COD and BOD₅ are higher than the quality standards of the waste but are environmentally friendly because the ratio of the BOD₅/COD values from the waste ranges from 0.44–0.67.

The findings indicate that as a mordant, aluminium sulphate results in lower pollution loads than aluminium nitrate and PAC. However, all three mordants contain Cr and Cu, albeit in negligible concentrations. Therefore, it is recommended that future studies strive to identify a mordant that has lower pollution loads and does not contain metals but can increase dyeing results to satisfy consumer requirements. It is the hope that, with the discovery of a new mordant, natural dyes will be the solution for the heavy metal pollution caused by synthetic dyes.

The use of environmentally-friendly mordants and natural dyes in the Indonesian textile and batik industry will give rise to superior quality eco-textile and eco-batik products. Such environmentally-friendly and high-quality products will not only increase competition and consumer interest but increase product sales as well which will, in turn, increase incomes and the economy. Additionally, an increase in the use of natural dyes by the textile and batik industry will serve as additional income to the communities and farmers from which the raw materials for the natural dyes are sourced thereby creating jobs and increasing welfare.

As environmentally-friendly mordants and natural dyes replace the hazardous and toxic materials currently used in the textile and batik industry, it guarantees the health and safety of its consumers and workers. Furthermore, as the waste-water produced is biodegradable, it reduces river and groundwater pollution. It is, therefore, expected that this information will not only lead to a shift in attitude within the textile and batik industries but the adoption of environmentally-friendly materials, for the sake of the environment, as well as the development of eco-textile and eco-batik products.

Aluminium sulphate is a mordant type of aluminium salt with a lower potential for contamination than aluminium nitrate and PAC. However, PAC has been discovered to be a mordant for natural dyes, as has the fruit of the mangsi shrub, which has recently been discovered as a naturally occurring blue dye.