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Despite menswear is gaining a significant relevance in terms of retail sales, it represents a neglected topic within the academic literature. Therefore, this paper aims at providing a better understanding of the formal menswear market by developing a tailor-made classification model for the identification of retailers' clusters and at discovering the critical success factors (CSFs).

This research looked at most formal high-end menswear retailers in Italy adopting a methodology based on the Analytic Hierarchy Process and multiple case studies. Thirty interviews were conducted with experts, managers and shopkeepers from case studies.

The study develops for the first time a classification framework of formal high-end menswear retailers and a matching matrix to jointly analyse retailers' clusters and customer profiles in Italy. The results identify the CSFs pursued by menswear retailers and highlight the existence of four clusters of retailers (Differentiated Fashion Firms; Formal Menswear Leaders; Tailoring Firms and Luxury Brands) and seven customer profiles (Habitual Professionals, Special Events, Young People, Occasional Professionals, Foreigners, VIPs and Fashionistas).

The formal high-end menswear represents one of the most traditional Italian heritage markets while being almost ignored in the academic literature. Thus, the value of this research lays in deepening our understanding of this market from the retailers' perspective, by providing for the first time a taxonomy of its players and contributing to identifying the CSFs and the main customer profiles.

UK fashion retailing is characterised by high levels of market concentration, centralisation and outlet standardisation. In the pursuit of market share, the multiple fashion retailers are implementing branding strategies that aim to differentiate their product offer and reinforce their market positioning. Empirical research, via key informant interviews, examined the branding decisions of two multiple fashion retailers and established four main methods of brand differentiation.

The key purpose of this paper is to examine the principal dimensions involved in store‐choice decisions and to discuss the trade‐off consumers make in their judgments between salient variables. The process of conjoint analysis is considered, in the first section of the paper, as a means to understanding the behavioural dimensions of customer segmentation. The second section explores this link, with reference to recent research undertaken with a multiple menswear fashion retailer. Respondents were interviewed to elicit their preferred ‘bundle’ of store‐choice attributes, which they felt influenced them in their choice of where to shop. In the third section of the paper, an attempt is made to evaluate the trade‐offs involved in the choice process.

Research into store image, market positioning and store choice has mainly been carried out in supermarkets or department stores and only a limited amount in speciality retailing. This study uses conjoint analysis to examine the way consumers choose where to purchase menswear fashion clothing, based on their perception and trade‐off of four attributes ‐ price, quality, selection and staff ‐ shown to be important in previous research. The results indicate that quality was the most important attribute to the respondents in this study. The paper concludes by analysing sub‐segments of shopping preferences for customers of Next for Men, a UK fashion retailer.

In 1930s Britain, tennis champion Fred Perry was a household name. However, the name Fred Perry is more commonly associated with striped-collar polo shirts featuring a laurel wreath logo. In the late 1960s, Fred Perry polo shirts were standard mod and Skinhead dress. When worn by working-class youth the shirt became subversive commentary on English elitism because it had originally been designed for the tennis courts. Many punks also aligned with the brand in dual demonstration of association with working-class ethics as well as an alternative to t-shirts. In the 1980s and onward, this sartorial style was appropriated by right-wing white nationalists, which stripped it of its subcultural spirit. Patriot groups, such as neo-Nazis and the alt-right have continued to co-opt the subcultural style, simultaneously turning the Fred Perry polo into a symbol of racism and bigotry. The multi-use of the Fred Perry brand creates a challenge in how to interpret visual cues when one garment has competing perceptions that at times can be completely opposing. This study examines the history of the Fred Perry brand through the lens of symbolic interactionism, specifically how the shirt evolved from a rather innocuous, yet subversive, form of merchandize repurposed from the tennis world to youth subcultures where the polo communicated group identity. As the brand has moved through fashion cycles, the association of the Fred Perry polo with deviant groups has reduced the brand to representations of hate and separation, which has impacted sales and brand image with its intended consumers.

Attempts to construct consumer typologies are an enduring feature of retailing research and frequently centre on economic and demographic characteristics. Such research highlights the relatively poor understanding of real‐life consumer behaviour and, in particular, the need to develop more appropriate methods of examining the behaviour of consumers within real‐life retail settings. As a first step in a study designed to assess the role of group identity in fashion clothing purchasing, this paper outlines an innovative methodological approach. Based on the experience of a project examining customer behaviour in a major menswear fashion retailer in the UK, the paper outlines a technique involving video observation, coupled with individual in‐depth interviews, as an effective means of generating valid referential accounts of in‐store customer behaviour. The paper considers the ethical and practical problems associated with utilising such a methodology, and points out the managerial and marketing implications of the approach.

Developing a strong, positive image has become essential to the maintenance of sustained competitive advantage. Research into store image has allowed retailers to create positioning strategies and enabled them to differentiate their stores in terms of the products, prices or services on offer. This paper presents the findings of a survey based on responses from 860 customers of multiple retailers selling womenswear fashion clothing. It examined the principal dimensions involved in store image, utilising a multi‐attribute model, and compares results with qualitative store choice statements. The paper concludes by exploring how retailers could manipulate image variables to maintain or defend their market positioning.

The purpose of this paper is twofold. In its initial stages it undertakes a review of the key fashion industry‐related themes emerging from the IJRDM. Subsequently, it reflects upon these themes in the context of luxury fashion brand Prada and in so doing identifies four key change phases in the evolution of the brand.

Review of literature spanning 20 years.

The paper identifies five overarching general themes. These comprise fashion retailer brands, the internationalisation of fashion retailing, the emergence and challenges of on‐line fashion retailing, changes in the supply chain and changes in consumption.

The paper provides a valuable overview of the main research themes within the context of fashion retailing. In addition, it provides a critical insight into the changing nature of Italian luxury fashion brand Prada.

Presents research which explores tenant‐manager relationships in managed shopping centres. In order to address this issue a sample of 16 shopping centre managers and 45 clothing retailers within these centres was taken in the lower North Island of New Zealand. Clothing retailers were chosen because of their tendency to locate in centres. Results showed that most managers were located at the centre site ‐ which assists in manager‐tenant communications. Managers tended to set tenant rent based on the area and site to be leased. When it came to shopping centre managers selecting tenants, store credibility and willingness to take part in public relations activities were the most important factors. Once the tenants were selected, managers encouraged most of them to contribute to an in‐house marketing fund. When it came to specific relationship issues, managers tended to have more positive views of their relationship with the tenants than the tenants themselves. Concludes that, although the centres have enjoyed success in New Zealand until now, there is still a need for managers and retailers to strive to work together in order to benefit equally from the relationship they have.