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This paper outlines the history of clothing and modern textile production, from manual systems to modern line‐production systems, and notes that this has been affected by the mechanical properties of fabrics. It also focuses on the roles of textile scientists and the clothing industry to meet the needs of society.

The purpose of this paper is to examine ladies' linen fabrics produced in different regions – Japan, Italy, and Poland – to ascertain differences in mechanical, thermal, and air permeability properties.

The paper investigates mechanical properties, air permeability, and thermal conductivity. The silhouettes of Polish, Italian, and Japanese linen fabrics are different. The thermal conductivities of the Polish linen fabrics are high. The levels of 72 elements were analyzed and remarkable differences were observed in the levels of 16 elements, including Li, Al, Si, Ti, Cr, Ni, Rb, and Y, Ag, among Polish, Italian linen fabrics, and linen fabrics made in Japan. Another ten elements were detected at some level in either the samples of Polish linen fabrics or linen fabrics made in Japan.

There are differences among the Polish, Italian, and linen fabrics made in Japan, but the differences are not remarkable.

This paper is a wide world regional study of linen characterisation.

Another ten elements are detected at some level in either the samples of Polish linen fabrics or linen fabrics made in Japan. There are differences among the Polish, Italian, and linen fabrics made in Japan, but the differences are not remarkable.

The paper presents useful Measurement instrumentation, analysis and characterisation of linen fabrics from different regions of the world.

Reports on the importance of the mechanical properties of sewing thread and its interaction with the sewing process.

In order to establish an objective method of evaluating pillow comfort, we investigate the relation between the sensory evaluation of pillows and the compression properties of pillows. The subjective evaluation values of hardness, fitness and total comfort were correlated with the compression energy WC and the displacement Δ T at the maximum load of 50gf/cm². Pillows which have large values of WC and Δ T were regarded as softer, fitter and more comfortable. Pillows estimated as being soft and fit showed larger contact areas and less contact pressure on the head. For the pillows which have the same flat shape, a good agreement between the individual judges was shown in the assessments of hardness and height. The shape and packing density of polyethylene pipes affected the degree of the hardness of the pillows.

Explains the origins of the development of the handle method, and lists the three criteria for predicting fabric quality. Shows how fabric handle evaluation is used, for example, handle analysis expresses characteristics and quality. Goes on to explain hand value and total hand value with the aid of equations and charts. Concludes that the textile technology must apply today’s technologies to the production of higher grade fabrics – i.e. ideal fabrics.

The purpose of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the warm/cool feeling of the heat properties of fabrics and the subjective evaluation of the quality of ladies' garment fabrics.

Regression analysis is conducted using stepwise block regression applied to the expert judges' judgment value total hand value, using six blocks of the mechanical properties and one block of the initial maximum values q_max of the heat flux of the heat properties of spring and summer tailored‐type jacket fabrics, as the seven blocks of fabric properties, including the secondary term of each property.

The results of the regression analysis show that the q_max values do not affect the subjective evaluation of the quality of spring and summer tailored‐type jacket fabrics. The results of the regression analysis of ladies' knitted fabric properties applied to the subjective evaluation value have confirmed that the q_max values affect the subjective evaluation of the quality of ladies' knitted fabrics.

This paper usefully describes the relationship between the warm/cool feeling of fabric and the subjective evaluation of the quality of ladies' knitted fabrics.

Presents a report on a recent experiment on the evaluation of seam pucker level by the objective method. Explains that human beings measure physical quantity and quality by means of subjective methods. Fabric hand evaluation is an example of this type of evaluation and an example of a relatively complex measurement with many relating physical variables. The measurement of seam pucker is a much simpler measurement than fabric hand evaluation, as only the fabric geometry along a seam line is visually observed and evaluated. This simplicity, however, is useful when investigating the human objective judgement of a geometrical phenomenon. Suggests that this investigation may be applied directly to the development of an objective system of seam pucker level.

Non‐recovery of wool Futon padding was investigated by compression and creep tests. Simulation tests are also carried out to use the minuter model Futon. Fibre crimp was found to be an important parameter to be considered in the non‐recovery of Futon. Futon padding which consists of crimpy fibre has large apparent fibre density and shows less reduction of thickness compared with those made from uncrimpy fibres. The moisture inside and outside the Futon has a large influence on the recovery process.

Japanese traditional Chirimen fabrics are used for making kimonos, which have a fixed structure and are worn in very particular ways. These fabrics have also been used as dress fabrics in recent years. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the characteristics of the mechanical properties of various types of Chirimen to clarify differences in their hand value (HV) and clothing appearance.

Chirimen fabrics were collected from the largest producing area, the Tango district, plus silk Chirimen and 40 polyester Chirimen samples, resulting in a total of 311 samples. The mechanical properties, HVs, and formability of Chirimen fabrics used for kimono fabrics were compared to those of Western fabrics, and their unique features were clarified.

Values of the weft direction of bending properties of all Chirimen groups, men and women's suit fabrics, and dress shirt fabrics were at the same level. A significant feature of the mechanical parameters of each Chirimen group (excluding logSP which are compound values of bending properties and shearing properties) was that they were in the range for ideal men's suiting zone. HV KOSHI of Chirimen is found to be closely related to the bending properties, thickness and weight of the fabric, and HV TEKASA of Chirimen is found to be closely related to the thickness and weight of the fabric.

This paper clarifies Chirimen's mechanical properties which contribute to traditional subjective evaluation by fabric experts.

Engineered manufacturing of high quality garments has long been a target of textile technology. There are three main factors for manufacturing high quality garments. They are: the selection of good fabrics for the garments; the process control of garment manufacturing; and the performance and correct adjustment of manufacturing machines such as sewing machines. In recent years, objective evaluation technology of fabric quality has been developed, and many researchers are now moving toward the engineered design of fabric quality based on this objective evaluation technology. The present authors are also conducting research on these three factors on the basis of the development of objective evaluation technology. This paper consists of two parts. The first part is a brief introduction about the investigation of the first and the second factors, which have been investigated by the authors. The second part presents our recent research on seam pucker problems. This problem is a machine‐materials interaction problem, and the mechanical properties of sewing thread and fabric are closely connected in this problem.