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Drape is a property that affects the aesthetic appeal and functionality of materials used for clothing manufacture. When various cut components of apparel are assembled together, the drape behavior of the final garment could be affected compared to the base fabric. Goat suede leathers are widely used for making apparels. The purpose of this paper is to analyse the effect of sewing on the drape characteristics of goat suede leather.

For this study commercially available goat suede leathers of Indian origin from five different firms were used. The bending length, drape coefficient and number of nodes were measured for goat suede leathers with different stitch and seam values and compared with the same measurements taken in plain leather. For bending length measurement, plain, single stitched and seamed samples were prepared. For drape coefficient measurement, plain, radially stitched and seamed namely half circle and quarter circle samples were prepared.

The introduction of seam (0.5 and 1 cm allowance) on the goat suede leathers increases the bending length significantly thereby reducing the drape ability but the influence of single stitch on the bending length is negligible. On contrary, there is a significant increase in drape coefficient values for simple radial stitched as well as for seamed samples. The number of nodes generated reduced marginally upon the introduction of stitch or seam.

The paper provides the information on the effect of sewing on the drape characteristics of goat suede apparel leathers. This is the first of its kind study on leather as clothing material.

Leather Science and Technology is a multidisciplinary area of study and hence relevant information is to be found in several databases. A study was done to find out the scope of CAB databases, Compendex Plus and MEDLINE vis‐à‐vis leather literature.

The purpose of this paper is to investigate the interfacial nanostructures and the adhesions of the stainless steel (S.S) coating to the polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) leathers.

PU leather and PVC leather deposit S.S nano-films on the surface of PU and PVC leathers in this study. The interfacial nanostructures were investigated by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and atomic force microscopy (AFM). The experimental results revealed that the surface roughness of the substrates had extremely important influence on the morphology of nano-films. The adhesions of the S.S coating to the PU and PVC leathers were investigated by the peel-off test.

The results showed that the adhesive performance of the S.S nano-films coating on PVC leather was better than that on the substrate of PU leather. Moreover, a weight loss of per peeling force calculating formulation is proposed to determine the bonding strength between the S.S films and the substrates.

In this paper, influence of different substrates on surface morphology of S.S coating was studied by SEM and AFM. Moreover, the weight loss of per peeling force calculating formulation was used to discuss the bonding strength between the S.S coating and the substrates. The research methods presented in this paper are of innovation significance to a certain extent.

The case study aims to provide students with an understanding of the challenges businesses face expanding into the home market after having an international presence through exports. It also throws light on operations in an emerging market economy – both rural and urban. The key objectives are to understand the leather footwear business operation in India, understand the challenges of expanding business in India, analyse strategies adopted to sustain and compete in India and identify the possible distribution strategies for the leather footwear business in India.

The case study focuses on Tata International Limited’s (TIL) leather and leather products business in India. The leather and leather products division was present in India since 1973 (Anand, 2020) and exported to more than 35 countries across the world (Anand, 2020). TIL did not want to miss the opportunity available in India and planned to expand its leather footwear business in the country. The company opened retail outlets in major Indian cities and an experience store in Dewas (Madhya Pradesh) in 2019. It aimed for a domestic presence along with the existing export business. However, the biggest challenge that was in front of V. Muthukumaran, head of leather products division at TIL, was how to go ahead with the idea of domestic expansion (Anand, 2020). Should the company expand the market through sister companies (Westside and Tata CliQ) in India? How and in what way should TIL plan for going through Westside and Tata CLiQ? Should Muthukumaran think of either the brick-and-mortar route or the online route or both?

This case study is designed for use in undergraduate and graduate early-stage programmes. This case study is primarily designed for use in Master of Business Administration and/or Bachelor of Business Administration programmes. The case study is ideal for courses on understanding the expansion in the domestic market, strategy, retail and international marketing. The teaching note discusses theoretical frameworks such as external environment analysis and SWOT analysis to devise distribution strategies. The case study mapped the distribution channel and decision alternatives for the company.

Teaching notes are available for educators only.

CSS 8: Marketing.

This study aims to identify leather type and authenticity through optical coherence tomography.

Optical coherence tomography images taken from genuine and faux leather samples were used to create an image dataset, and automated machine learning algorithms were also used to distinguish leather types.

The optical coherence tomography scan results in a different image based on leather type. This information was used to determine the leather type correctly by optical coherence tomography and automatic machine learning algorithms. Please note that this system also recognized whether the leather was genuine or synthetic. Hence, this demonstrates that optical coherence tomography and automatic machine learning can be used to distinguish leather type and determine whether it is genuine.

For the first time to the best of the authors' knowledge, spectral-domain optical coherence tomography and automated machine learning algorithms were applied to identify leather authenticity in a noncontact and non-invasive manner. Since this model runs online, it can readily be employed in automated quality monitoring systems in the leather industry. With recent technological progress, optical coherence tomography combined with automated machine learning algorithms will be used more frequently in automatic authentication and identification systems.

Sustainability is an integrating concept and demands strategic attention in developing countries like India. Due to strict environmental regulations and ongoing government sustainable policies such as “Namami Gange,” leather industries are extensively facing challenges to conform themselves toward these sustainable policies. The major challenge faced by leather industries is the exponentially increasing cost of adaptation to sustainable product and process. Under these operational constraints, survival of Indian leather industries has become a major challenge. In this context, this paper aims to identify and evaluate sustainable manufacturing policies. The key performance indicators (KPIs) based on triple bottom line of sustainability can assist leather industries that are about to initiate adopting sustainable practices.

This paper demonstrates the role of KPIs for evaluating sustainable manufacturing policies for leather industries in India. Initially, an in-depth literature review analysis has been carried out to identify indicators for evaluation of sustainable manufacturing policies. In this work, an integrated methodology has been developed to refine the priority map of the aforementioned KPIs based on consensus building among experts using Kappa analysis. Total interpretive structural modeling (TISM) has been used to demonstrate relationships which explain the significance of the KPIs. Further, Matriced Impact Croises Multiplication Applique analysis has been carried out to explore the relationships amongst KPIs.

Based on above analysis, identified interactive relationships among the KPIs will assist managers and decision-makers to incorporate effective sustainable policies in leather industries.

It is expected that these identified interactive interrelationships between KPIs will certainly facilitate the leather industry to achieve higher sustainable performance and competitiveness.

This study carries out an in-depth literature review analysis of sustainable manufacturing policies in leather industry. The author proposes an integrated methodology using kappa analysis, consensus building and TISM for evaluation of sustainable policies based on the literature review analysis and expert opinion.

The purpose of this paper is to improve the dye affinity of natural dye of Terminalia chebula retzius (T. chebula) using the dye substrate of leather.

The dyeing conditions such as temperature, concentration of dye, and time are controlled by measuring the dye affinity. The effect of enzymatic post-tanning process on dye affinity is evaluated by using different type of proteases such as flavourzyme, alcalase, and bromelain. The optimum conditions for enzymatic post-tanning process are evaluated depending on different pH, temperature, and concentration of enzyme.

The highest dye affinity was obtained at 50°C using a dye concentration of 200 percent (owf) for 30 min treatment by measuring of K/S values of dyed leather. Distilled water was proved as a better extraction liquid to improve the dye affinity of T. chebula. The K/S values of dyed leather were enhanced after the enzymatic post-tanning process by flavourzyme. Moreover, the fastness properties against the rubbing and dry cleaning of the dyed leather were improved by the enzymatic post-tanning process.

In this paper, the enzymatic post-tanning process is introduced as the method to improve the dye affinity in natural dyeing using Terminalia chebula retzius (T. chebula) applied to leather. The results of the study could be applied for further natural dyeing of leather using various natural dyes.

The domestic exotic leather industry (for the purposes of this study exotic leather was defined as ostrich, emu and American alligator) has been in existence for many years, but much of the raw leather is exported, resulting in a loss of value added for America. The purpose of this study was to explore fashion leaders’ and followers’ attitudes towards exotic leather apparel products. The theoretical framework used for this study was Sproles’ model of fashion adoption (Sproles 1979). This study was part of a larger research project which was designed to segment the market, profile consumers of exotic leather apparel products and develop promotional strategies. A questionnaire, mailed to 800 fashion professionals in eight regional fashion centres across the country, yielded a 50 per cent return rate. Results indicated that the Sproles model was effective in describing and characterising fashion leaders (adopters) and followers (Sproles 1979). Fashion leaders had a more favourable attitude towards exotic leather apparel products, had a greater purchase intention of such products, had higher cognitive motivations, and had a different shopping orientation from followers. Leaders enjoyed shopping more and were not as cost‐conscious, traditional, or conservative as followers. Understanding the differences between fashion leaders and followers will only serve to enhance and contribute to the economic development of the domestic exotic leather industry.

Burgeoning challenges of climate change and poverty alleviation across many parts of the world have enforced the policy makers and researchers to develop an alternate system for performance assessment of an individual, a country, and a corporate. The purpose of this paper is to analyze the sustainability strategies of three leading states in the Indian leather industry – Tamil Nadu (TN), West Bengal (WB) and Uttar Pradesh (UP) – to gain insights into their efforts and progress in generating economic, social, and environmental values.

This study used case study approach for investigative analysis, and triangulation method – interviews and field visits, for data verification. The study examines the various sustainability strategies by applying economic value creation (evaluation of growth in total turnover, evaluation of the growth in profitability, evaluation of leverage), social value creation (evaluation of the growth in wages, evaluation of the growth in employee welfare expenses), and environmental value creation (conservation in raw material consumption, conservation in energy consumption, evaluation of waste management practices).

The findings reveal that the three states differ significantly from each other both in terms of efforts made and progress achieved during the period of study, 1998-2013. UP seems to be making the most consistent progress in achieving economic value, while WB shows the most progress in creating social value, and TN leads the pack in terms of creating environmental value. Thus, the three leading states in the Indian leather industry have been allowing trade-offs to get competitive advantage over others.

The opaqueness with which the Indian leather Industry conducts social and environmental practices clearly limits the sources of accurate and reliable data, and the ability of researchers to precisely identify the problems and suggest solutions.

The opaqueness with which the Indian leather Industry conducts social and environmental practices clearly impacts the policy makers, practitioners, and researchers to continue such initiatives and improve the lives of people in India for whom continuing this profession is a big challenge and a hurdle to accomplish their livelihood.

The paper gives a theoretical explanation of the sustainability in the leather industry with respect to its strategies in terms of economic value, social value, and environmental value.

The purpose of this paper is devoted to application of the emulsion polymer of poly(methyl methacrylate-co-butyl acrylate) prepared with in situ nano-silica as a novel tanning agent of hide to partly or totally replace chrome salt and to improve physical, thermal and mechanical properties of the tanned leather and to reduce the environmental impact of chrome tanning effluent.

Polymer/nano-silica hybrid emulsions were prepared via in situ seed emulsion polymerisation. The prepared polymers were characterised for solid content, molecular weight, viscosity, drying time, minimum film-forming temperature (MFFT) and microstructures (via transmission electron microscopy). The mechanical, thermal and surface morphological (by scanning electron microscope) properties of the treated samples were also investigated. The influences of the increase in the content of organic nano-silica on the properties of the tanned leather are discussed.

It was found that the viscosity, the particle size and the solid content of the prepared polymers increased as the content of the nano-silica increased while gloss and drying time of the resulting polymer film decreased. Tanning buffalo hide by Polymer F (containing a high content of nano-silica) gave desirable properties in terms of tensile strength, thermal stability and shrinkage temperature.

This paper discusses the preparation and the characterisation of emulsion polymers with in situ nano-silica and their application in tanning process to enhance and improve the leather quality, as well as reduce the use of chrome tanning materials and consequently chrome tanning waste.

The tanned leather showed an improvement of physico-mechanical properties and enhancement of thermal stability. Furthermore, the tanned leather has uniform colour, softness and firmness of grain. All these promising results provide evidence to support the applicability of the prepared co-polymer/nano-silica emulsions as an efficient tanning agent that also provides lubricating properties for leather.

Since May 2015, REACH Annex XVII restricts Cr(VI) in leather articles or leather parts of articles that come into contact with skin to a concentration of less than 3 mg/kg. Cases of discovery of Cr(VI) in leather papers have been reported by the European rapid alert system on dangerous consumer products (RAPEX). The emulsion poly (methyl methacrylate-co-butyl acrylate) with in situ nano-silica that has been developed via the study reported in this paper is one of the better technologies for the reduction of chromium ratio used in tanning industry.