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Article
Publication date: 5 March 2024

Azita Asayesh and Fatemeh Kolahi Mahmoodi

Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the…

Abstract

Purpose

Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the case of knitted fabrics. Since, these fabric features are affected by fabric structure the aim of present research is to investigate how utilizing miss stitches and tuck stitches in the fabric structure for design purposes will influence the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock weft-knitted fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, interlock fabrics with different number of miss or tuck stitches on successive Wales were produced and pilling performance and abrasion resistance of the fabrics were investigated.

Findings

The results revealed that increasing the number of miss/tuck stitches on successive Wales decreases the abrasion resistance and enhances the pilling tendency of the fabric. The presence of miss/tuck stitches on both sides of the fabric improves the abrasion resistance and pilling performance of the fabric compared to fabrics containing these stitches on one side of the fabric. Furthermore, the fabric resistance against abrasion and pilling is higher in fabrics consisting of miss stitches compared to fabrics consisting of tuck stitches.

Originality/value

The use of tuck and miss stitches in designing the weft-knitted fabrics is a common method for producing fabrics with variety of knit patterns. Since pilling and abrasion resistance of the fabric influence on its appearance and performance, and none of the previous research studied the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock-knitted fabrics from the point of presence of tuck and miss stitches on successive Wales of the fabric, this subject has been surveyed in the present research.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 January 2024

Haisang Liu, Gaoming Jiang and Zhijia Dong

The warp-knitted fully-formed shorts are one kind of fully-formed garments knitted by a double-needle bar machine, which is widely used in the medical field. Because of its…

Abstract

Purpose

The warp-knitted fully-formed shorts are one kind of fully-formed garments knitted by a double-needle bar machine, which is widely used in the medical field. Because of its distinctive forming method, designers are unable to grasp the final effect of the product accurately during the design process. The purpose of this paper is to clarify a visible 3D simulation method in the design process along with the knitting method and structure characteristics, which is reflected in the final product effect.

Design/methodology/approach

This study introduces a simulation process for warp-knitted fully-formed fabric from an input 3D surface model group. Stitch mesh models are established according to the garment structure and the triangle index of the garment model that swchape-controlling points belong to is calculated. The garment model group includes a 2D plate and a 3D model, between which there is a space coordinate transformation relationship. The study makes use of the 3D tubes to connect the coordinate points in order and render the tubes in real yarn colors. The effects of two parameters, radial segment and tubular segment, are analyzed and decided to obtain a fine surface within a reasonable rendering time.

Findings

A stereoscopic simulation process from flat fabric to 3D product is realized using computer graphics technology. The warp-knitted fully-formed short is shown during the design process within a short time by setting the rendering parameters of tubular segments (ts = 125) and radial segments (rs = 6).

Originality/value

Visual simulation for the shorts provides a time-saving and resource-saving method for structure design and parameter modification before knitting. There is no need to knit samples repeatedly to satisfy demand, which indicates that it is a saver of time and resources.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 August 2022

Ngan Yi Kitty Lam, Jeanne Tan, Anne Toomey and Ka Chun Jimmy Cheuk

This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).

152

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).

Design/methodology/approach

Knit prototypes were constructed using a 7-gauge industrial hand flat knitting machine. The textile prototype swatches developed in this study tested POF illumination in three types of knitting structures: intervallic knit and float stitch structures; POF inlaid into double plain and full cardigan structures; and double plain and partial knitting structures. The illuminative effects of the POFs in seven prototype swatches were analysed and compared.

Findings

It is possible to use an industrial hand flat knitting machine to knit POFs. Longer floats expose more POFs, which boosts illumination but limits the textile’s horizontal stretchability. The openness of the full cardigan structure maximises POF exposure and contributes to even illumination. The partial knitting in different sections achieves the most complete physical integration of POFs into the knitted textiles but constrains the horizontal stretchability of the textiles.

Practical implications

The integration of POFs into knitted textiles provides a functional illuminative effect. Applications include but are not limited to fashion, architecture and interior design.

Originality/value

This study is novel, as it investigates new POF knitted textiles with different loop structures. This study examines how knit stitches affect POFs in intervallic knit and float stitch, inlaid POF double knit, double plain and partial knit and the illuminative effects of the knitted textile.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Open Access
Article
Publication date: 8 April 2024

Anita Meena

This paper aims to examine and compare the export performance and competitiveness of Indian and Chinese textile and clothing industry in post-multifibre arrangement (MFA) era.

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to examine and compare the export performance and competitiveness of Indian and Chinese textile and clothing industry in post-multifibre arrangement (MFA) era.

Design/methodology/approach

Balassa’s revealed comparative advantage Index is used to assess the competitiveness of Indian and Chinese textile and clothing exports.

Findings

The results indicate that China’s textiles and garments sector holds a greater proportion of the global market compared with India. India has a robust comparative advantage in silk, carpets and cotton post-MFA. Vegetable textile fibers, paper yarn and woven fabrics of paper yarn are also competitive. China had a strong comparative advantage in silk and fabrics; special woven fabrics, tafted textile fabrics, lace, tapestries, trimmings and embroidery in 2005. China also recorded comparative advantage in silk, man-made filaments: strip and the like of man-made textile materials, fabrics; special woven fabrics, tafted textile fabrics, lace, tapestries, trimmings and embroidery and fabrics; knitted or crocheted in 2021.

Research limitations/implications

This study’s results and recommendations could assist the Indian and Chinese Governments develop policies to upgrade their garment industries.

Originality/value

Though vast literature reviews are available for textile and apparel export performance in India and China separately, there are few studies on comparisons. This study is a significant attempt to evaluate India and China’s competitiveness in the global market.

Details

Vilakshan - XIMB Journal of Management, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0973-1954

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 14 November 2023

S. Raja Balasaraswathi and Jonalee D. Bajpai

Ultrasonic welding is an emerging apparel manufacturing technique. However, the applications are widely explored in the field of technical textiles, with less exploration in the…

Abstract

Purpose

Ultrasonic welding is an emerging apparel manufacturing technique. However, the applications are widely explored in the field of technical textiles, with less exploration in the apparel endues. The purpose of this study is to explore the application of ultrasonic welding in apparel by analyzing the impacts of different parameters.

Design/methodology/approach

This study analyzed the influence of ultrasonic welding parameters, including pressure, welding speed and ultrasonic power on the seam performances (seam strength, seam bursting strength, seam thickness and seam stiffness). The parameters are optimized using Box–Behnken experimental design to achieve better seam performances.

Findings

The properties of ultrasonic seams are influenced by welding and fabric properties. Ultrasonically welded seams showed better performances in the case of comfort properties of seams, whereas the functional properties are lesser compared to conventional seams.

Originality/value

The findings of the research clearly outline the level of influence of different parameters on the performance of the ultrasonically welded seams in knitted fabrics, which can greatly help in applying ultrasonic welding manufacturing methods in apparel manufacturing.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 March 2024

Saloni Purandare and Chunhui Xiang

Firefighter Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is the only barrier between the firefighter and hazardous environment. Gloves are a crucial component of the multi-component PPE…

Abstract

Purpose

Firefighter Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is the only barrier between the firefighter and hazardous environment. Gloves are a crucial component of the multi-component PPE. Over time the gloves have reduced the intensity of hand injuries, yet further improvement in terms of material selection and glove design is required to strike the balance between protection and comfort. Focusing on the material aspect, the purpose of this study is to present literature analysis on material selection and testing for firefighter gloves.

Design/methodology/approach

The study conducted a literature analysis on material selection and characterization of firefighter PPE. The review summarizes and evaluates past work addressing the characterization of firefighter gloves in accordance with NFPA 1971 requirements and points out found research gaps to aid with foundation of future research.

Findings

The study summarizes several research works to inform readers about the material selection and characterization of firefighter gloves. Based on the analyzed literature, the study resulted in material specification sheets for firefighter gloves. The developed material specification sheets provide information in terms of crucial material properties to be incorporated for accurate functioning of firefighter gloves, testing methods to validate those material properties and materials from analyzed literature exhibiting desired properties.

Originality/value

With large research addressing firefighter PPE, only limited studies focus specifically on gloves. Thus, this study provides a literature analysis covering material selection and testing for gloves. A consolidated firefighter gloves material specification document, which does not appear to be available in the literature, will provide a foundation for the development and characterization of firefighter gloves to better serve the functions along with ensuring user comfort.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 28 March 2022

Adriana Gorea, Amy Dorie and Martha L. Hall

This study aims to investigate if engineered compression variations using moisture-responsive knitted fabric design can improve breast support in seamless knitted sports bras.

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to investigate if engineered compression variations using moisture-responsive knitted fabric design can improve breast support in seamless knitted sports bras.

Design/methodology/approach

An experimental approach was used to integrate a novel moisture-responsive fabric panel into a seamless knitted bra, and the resulting compression variability in dry versus wet conditions were compared with those of a control bra. Air permeability and elongation testing of between breasts fabric panels was conducted in dry and wet conditions, followed by three-dimensional body scanning of eight human participants wearing the two bras in similar conditions. Questionnaires were used to evaluate perceived comfort and breast support of both bras in both conditions.

Findings

Air permeability test results showed that the novel panel had the highest variance between dry and wet conditions, confirming its moisture-responsive design, and increased its elongation coefficient in both wale and course directions in wet condition. There were significant main effects of bra type and body location on breast compression measurements. Breast circumferences in the novel bra were significantly larger than in the control bra condition. The significant two-way interaction between bra type and moisture condition showed that the control bra lost compressive power in wet condition, whereas the novel bra became more compressive when wet. Changes in compression were confirmed by participants’ perception of tighter straps and drier breast comfort.

Originality/value

These findings add to the limited scientific knowledge of moisture adaptive bra design using engineered knitted fabrics via advanced manufacturing technologies, with possible applications beyond sports bras, such as bras for breast surgery recovering patients.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 17 November 2023

Jinyu Zhang, Danni Shen, Yuxiang Yu, Defu Bao, Chao Li and Jiapei Qin

This study aims to develop a four-dimensional (4D) textile composite that self-forms upon thermal stimulation while eliminating thermomechanical programming steps by using fused…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to develop a four-dimensional (4D) textile composite that self-forms upon thermal stimulation while eliminating thermomechanical programming steps by using fused deposition modeling (FDM) 3D printing technology, and tries to refine the product development path for this composite.

Design/methodology/approach

Polylactic acid (PLA) printing filaments were deposited on prestretched Lycra-knitted fabric using desktop-level FDM 3D printing technology to construct a three-layer structure of thermally responsive 4D textiles. Subsequently, the effects of different PLA thicknesses and Lycra knit fabric relative elongation on the permanent shape of thermally responsive 4D textiles were studied. Finally, a simulation program was written, and a case in this study demonstrates the usage of thermally responsive 4D textiles and the simulation program to design a wrist support product.

Findings

The constructed three-layer structure of PLA and Lycra knitted fabric can self-form under thermal stimulation. The material can also achieve reversible transformation between a permanent shape and multiple temporary shapes. Thinner PLA deposition and higher relative elongation of the Lycra-knitted fabric result in the greater curvature of the permanent shape of the thermally responsive 4D textile. The simulation program accurately predicted the permanent form of multiple basic shapes.

Originality/value

The proposed method enables 4D textiles to directly self-form upon thermal, which helps to improve the manufacturing efficiency of 4D textiles. The thermal responsiveness of the composite also contributes to building an intelligent human–material–environment interaction system.

Details

Rapid Prototyping Journal, vol. 30 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1355-2546

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 20 February 2024

Saba Sareminia, Zahra Ghayoumian and Fatemeh Haghighat

The textile industry holds immense significance in the economy of any nation, particularly in the production of synthetic yarn and fabrics. Consequently, the pursuit of acquiring…

Abstract

Purpose

The textile industry holds immense significance in the economy of any nation, particularly in the production of synthetic yarn and fabrics. Consequently, the pursuit of acquiring high-quality products at a reduced cost has become a significant concern for countries. The primary objective of this research is to leverage data mining and data intelligence techniques to enhance and refine the production process of texturized yarn by developing an intelligent operating guide that enables the adjustment of production process parameters in the texturized yarn manufacturing process, based on the specifications of raw materials.

Design/methodology/approach

This research undertook a systematic literature review to explore the various factors that influence yarn quality. Data mining techniques, including deep learning, K-nearest neighbor (KNN), decision tree, Naïve Bayes, support vector machine and VOTE, were employed to identify the most crucial factors. Subsequently, an executive and dynamic guide was developed utilizing data intelligence tools such as Power BI (Business Intelligence). The proposed model was then applied to the production process of a textile company in Iran 2020 to 2021.

Findings

The results of this research highlight that the production process parameters exert a more significant influence on texturized yarn quality than the characteristics of raw materials. The executive production guide was designed by selecting the optimal combination of production process parameters, namely draw ratio, D/Y and primary temperature, with the incorporation of limiting indexes derived from the raw material characteristics to predict tenacity and elongation.

Originality/value

This paper contributes by introducing a novel method for creating a dynamic guide. An intelligent and dynamic guide for tenacity and elongation in texturized yarn production was proposed, boasting an approximate accuracy rate of 80%. This developed guide is dynamic and seamlessly integrated with the production database. It undergoes regular updates every three months, incorporating the selected features of the process and raw materials, their respective thresholds, and the predicted levels of elongation and tenacity.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 25 January 2024

Mehmet Küçük

Fabrics, which are one of the raw materials of the clothing industry, constitute approximately 40–45% of the total cost of an apparel product. Due to the labor-intensive nature of…

Abstract

Purpose

Fabrics, which are one of the raw materials of the clothing industry, constitute approximately 40–45% of the total cost of an apparel product. Due to the labor-intensive nature of this industry and failure to apply scientific methods along with the manufacturing processes, the wastes in the raw materials, including fabrics, become higher. Besides, quality deficiencies are encountered due to the same reasons. This study aims to determine the optimum total fabric layer height based on the fabric type during the cutting process with a straight knife cutting machine, which provided a decrease in the cutting errors.

Design/methodology/approach

Frequently used fabric types in an enterprise operating in organic cotton knitwear were listed. During the cutting tests, the straight knife cutting machine was used as the cutting device. The weight and thickness values of the fabrics were obtained to provide a comparison basis. Two different algorithms were created to evaluate the defective pieces according to fabric type, cutting height and error placement. Cutting resistances of these fabrics were also determined to evaluate the defect reasons. In the end, optimum total fabric layer count and total cutting height suggestions were proposed for each fabric type for a minimum cutting error.

Findings

At the end of this study, the error-free layers were identified per fabric type. At the same time, the optimum cutting height was suggested for each fabric basis. For 40/1 single jersey fabrics, the cutting height should be between 2.10 cm and 10.40 cm; for 30/1 single jersey fabrics, between 1.65 cm and 5.70 cm; for 20/1 single jersey fabrics, between 1.83 cm and 6.70 cm; for two-thread fleece fabrics, between 2.13 cm and 4.70 cm; and for three-thread fleece fabrics, between 0 cm and 4.90 cm.

Research limitations/implications

Within the scope of the study, since the products made of knitted fabric were produced more frequently and in large quantities, the study was carried out with 15 different types of knitted fabrics at 10 different layers. The same methods should be applied for woven, denim and nonwoven fabric types, which would shed light on the following studies.

Originality/value

Due to scarce research carried out on the cutting procedure of the clothing industry in regards to sustainability, this study aims to contribute to this area. The main difference between this study and the studies that mostly make mathematical predictions about the cutting procedure is that it is practice-oriented.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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