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Article
Publication date: 5 March 2024

Azita Asayesh and Fatemeh Kolahi Mahmoodi

Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the…

Abstract

Purpose

Pilling and abrasion resistance are two of the most important mechanical properties of the fabric that influence the appearance and performance of the fabric, particularly in the case of knitted fabrics. Since, these fabric features are affected by fabric structure the aim of present research is to investigate how utilizing miss stitches and tuck stitches in the fabric structure for design purposes will influence the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock weft-knitted fabrics.

Design/methodology/approach

In this research, interlock fabrics with different number of miss or tuck stitches on successive Wales were produced and pilling performance and abrasion resistance of the fabrics were investigated.

Findings

The results revealed that increasing the number of miss/tuck stitches on successive Wales decreases the abrasion resistance and enhances the pilling tendency of the fabric. The presence of miss/tuck stitches on both sides of the fabric improves the abrasion resistance and pilling performance of the fabric compared to fabrics containing these stitches on one side of the fabric. Furthermore, the fabric resistance against abrasion and pilling is higher in fabrics consisting of miss stitches compared to fabrics consisting of tuck stitches.

Originality/value

The use of tuck and miss stitches in designing the weft-knitted fabrics is a common method for producing fabrics with variety of knit patterns. Since pilling and abrasion resistance of the fabric influence on its appearance and performance, and none of the previous research studied the pilling and abrasion resistance of interlock-knitted fabrics from the point of presence of tuck and miss stitches on successive Wales of the fabric, this subject has been surveyed in the present research.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 15 September 2023

Bilian Cheng, Gaoming Jiang, Junjie Zhao and Bingxian Li

The purpose of this paper is to conveniently and accurately design partial knitting knitted fabrics based on matrix transformation.

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this paper is to conveniently and accurately design partial knitting knitted fabrics based on matrix transformation.

Design/methodology/approach

Using mathematical modeling, the pattern diagram block matrix and process design matrix of partial knitting knitted fabrics are established, and the process knitting diagram with parameter information is generated. Based on the establishment of the mathematical model of the process knitting diagram, a loop deformation method based on three-dimensional (3D) coordinate point matrix transformation is proposed.

Findings

The matrix transformation method can provide a suitable deformed loop mode for partial knitting knitted fabrics and helps to generate a 3D modeling diagram conveniently.

Originality/value

This paper proposed a method of design and modeling of partial knitting knitted fabric based on matrix transformation. Taking the 3D modeling effect of conventional partial knitting as an example to test the modeling method, the results show that after matrix transformation, the loop model can realize the rapid transformation and calculation of the coordinates of the control point and generate a 3D modeling diagram.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 6
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 13 October 2023

Gabriela Maestri, Claudia Merlini, Leonardo Mejia and Fernanda Steffens

This study aims to develop two piezoelectric textile devices formed from different weft knitted fabric rapports (Jersey and Pique) to be applied in the renewable energy’s (RE…

Abstract

Purpose

This study aims to develop two piezoelectric textile devices formed from different weft knitted fabric rapports (Jersey and Pique) to be applied in the renewable energy’s (RE) area.

Design/methodology/approach

Two different weft knitted rapports were produced with polyester (PES). The device developed has five layers: a central of poly(vinylidene fluoride) (PVDF) nonwoven, involved by two insulating layers of PES knitted fabric; and two conductive external layers, made of polypyrrole-coated PES knitted fabric. The piezoelectric textile devices were joined by sewing the five layers of the device.

Findings

The FTIR technique confirmed the β-phase in the PVDF nonwoven. This study produced and tested two different textiles devices with piezoelectric behavior, confirmed by the correlated pattern of voltage and tensile stress difference curves, showing the potential application in RE’s and sustainable energies field as smart textiles, such as devices incorporated in garments in the areas of high movement (elbow, knee, foot, fingers and hands, among others), and as an energy generator device

Originality/value

Textile materials with piezoelectric properties promise to advance RE’s developments due to their high material flexibility and sensitivity to the electrical response. The knitted fabric technology presents flexibility due to its construction process. Comparative studies analyzing the electrical response between knitted and woven fabrics have already been realized. However, there is a gap in terms of research scientific research regarding the comparison of the piezoelectric effect in a material that presents different knitted fabric rapports.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 1 September 2022

Fei Sun, Haisang Liu, Yuqin Din, Honglian Cong and Zhijia Dong

The purpose of this research is to propose a flexible sensor with a weft-knitted float stitch structure and to explore knitting techniques that allow conductive yarns to be…

Abstract

Purpose

The purpose of this research is to propose a flexible sensor with a weft-knitted float stitch structure and to explore knitting techniques that allow conductive yarns to be skin-tight and less exposed, reducing production processes and increasing productivity. Study its electrical conductivity in different yarn materials, knit processes and deformation ranges. The analysis is compared to provide some basis for the design of the electrodes.

Design/methodology/approach

The method includes five operations: (1) Analysis of the morphological appearance, tensile variation, fiber material properties and electrical conductivity of high-elastic and filament silver-plated conductive yarns. (2) Based on the knitting process of the floating yarn structure, three-dimensional modeling of the flexible sensor was carried out to explore the influence of knitting process changes on appearance characteristics. (3) The fabric samples are knitted by different silver-plated conductive yarns with different structures. Processing of experimental samples to finished size by advance shrinkage. (4) Measure the resistance of the experimental sample after the machine has been lowered and after pre-shrinking. Use the stretching machine to simulate a wearing experiment and measure the change in resistance of the sample in the 0–15% stretching range. (5) Analyze the influence factors on the conductive performance of the flexible sensor to determine whether it is suitable for textile flexible sensors.

Findings

For the float knitted flexible sensors, the floating wire projection is influenced by the elasticity of the fabric and the length of the floating wire. Compared to the plain knitted flexible sensors, it has less resistance variation and better electrical properties, making it suitable for making electrodes for textile structures. In addition, the knitting method is integrated with the intelligent monitoring clothing, which saves the process for the integration of the flexible sensor, realizes positioning and fixed-point knitting.

Practical implications

The sensor technology of the designed weft-knitted float structure is varied and can be freely combined and designed in a wide range. Within the good electrical conductivity, the flexible sensor can realize integrated knitting, positioning monitoring, integrating into the appearance of clothing. It can also focus on the wearing experience of wearable products so that the appearance of the monitoring clothing is close to the clothes we wear in our daily life.

Originality/value

In this paper, an integrated positioning knitting flexible sensor based on the weft knitting float structure is studied. The improved knitting process allows the sensing contact surface to be close to the skin and reduces the integration process. The relationship between the exposure of the silver-plated yarn on the clothing surface and the electrical conductivity is analyzed. Within a certain conductive performance, reduces the exposed area of the conductive yarn on the clothing surface and proposes a design reference for the flexible sensor appearance.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 35 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 January 2024

Haisang Liu, Gaoming Jiang and Zhijia Dong

The warp-knitted fully-formed shorts are one kind of fully-formed garments knitted by a double-needle bar machine, which is widely used in the medical field. Because of its…

Abstract

Purpose

The warp-knitted fully-formed shorts are one kind of fully-formed garments knitted by a double-needle bar machine, which is widely used in the medical field. Because of its distinctive forming method, designers are unable to grasp the final effect of the product accurately during the design process. The purpose of this paper is to clarify a visible 3D simulation method in the design process along with the knitting method and structure characteristics, which is reflected in the final product effect.

Design/methodology/approach

This study introduces a simulation process for warp-knitted fully-formed fabric from an input 3D surface model group. Stitch mesh models are established according to the garment structure and the triangle index of the garment model that swchape-controlling points belong to is calculated. The garment model group includes a 2D plate and a 3D model, between which there is a space coordinate transformation relationship. The study makes use of the 3D tubes to connect the coordinate points in order and render the tubes in real yarn colors. The effects of two parameters, radial segment and tubular segment, are analyzed and decided to obtain a fine surface within a reasonable rendering time.

Findings

A stereoscopic simulation process from flat fabric to 3D product is realized using computer graphics technology. The warp-knitted fully-formed short is shown during the design process within a short time by setting the rendering parameters of tubular segments (ts = 125) and radial segments (rs = 6).

Originality/value

Visual simulation for the shorts provides a time-saving and resource-saving method for structure design and parameter modification before knitting. There is no need to knit samples repeatedly to satisfy demand, which indicates that it is a saver of time and resources.

Details

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, vol. 36 no. 1
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0955-6222

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 November 2023

Fareha Asim, Farhana Naeem and Shenela Naqvi

Face masks are the most recommended precautionary measure since the emergence of SARS-CoV-2 since 2020 and the most useful PPE against this virus and its variants so far. This…

Abstract

Purpose

Face masks are the most recommended precautionary measure since the emergence of SARS-CoV-2 since 2020 and the most useful PPE against this virus and its variants so far. This study aims to develop reusable and biodegradable mask from 100% regenerated bamboo or/and its blend. Selection of natural and regenerated textile materials is to minimize generation of solid waste. This attempt will eventually protect our earth by minimizing or better discontinuing the production of the disposable nonbiodegradable face masks available worldwide.

Design/methodology/approach

Hundred percent regenerated bamboo and 50:50 bamboo:cotton were selected to knit plain and interlock fabrics for manufacturing of reusable sustainable face masks. A 23 32-mixed-level factorial design was applied to study the effect of liquor ratio and temperatures, fabric structure, blend ratios and finishes at three different levels. Model 23 32 has two factors (liquor ratio and temperatures) at three levels and three factors (fabric structure, blend ratios and type of finish) at two levels. Knitted fabrics were then applied with antibacterial finishes; sanitized T99-19 and sanitized T27-22, separately at three different liquor ratios (1:10, 1:12 and 1:15) and temperatures (45, 55 and 65 °C) via exhaust method. After completing processing, fabric thickness, pilling resistance, dimensional stability, bursting strength, Berger whiteness index, air permeability and antibacterial properties of each trial were evaluated using standard test procedures.

Findings

Selected fabrics treated either by sanitized T27 or sanitized T99 in a liquor ratio of 1:15 against 65 °C, showed excellent bacteriostatic/bactericidal activity. However, 100% regenerated bamboo interlock knitted fabric treated with sanitized T99 in a liquor ratio of 1:15 at 65 °C has the most desired values of dimensional stability, pilling resistance, Berger whiteness, fabric thickness, air permeability and bursting strength which made it the best for the manufacturing of the masks. Reusable mask is comprised of three layers in which the first and the third layers were of selected 100% regenerated bamboo fabric while a PM2.5 filter was inserted in between. Bacterial filtration efficiency, particle filtration efficiency, biocompatibility and microbial cleanliness will be evaluated in future, to compare the performance of proposed reusable and biodegradable face mask with N95 masks and other fabric masks available commercially.

Originality/value

This study resulted in a development of reusable eco-friendly facemask which was not attempted by the preceding investigations. Outcomes of this work pave the way for a greener and safer earth by using easily obtainable regenerated bamboo fabrics, antibacterial finishes and knitted structures.

Details

Pigment & Resin Technology, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 0369-9420

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 7 March 2022

Geetha Margret Soundri, Kavitha S. and Senthil Kumar B.

The essential properties of active sports fabrics are moisture management, quick-drying, body heat management and thermal regulations. Fibre type, blending nature, yarn and fabric…

Abstract

Purpose

The essential properties of active sports fabrics are moisture management, quick-drying, body heat management and thermal regulations. Fibre type, blending nature, yarn and fabric structure and the finishing treatment are the key parameters that influenced the performance of the clothing meant for sportswear. This study aims to investigate the effect of fibre blending and structural tightness factors on bi-layer sport fabric's dimensional, moisture management and thermal properties.

Design/methodology/approach

In this study, 12 different bi-layer inter-lock fabrics were produced. Polyester filament (120 Denier) yarn was fed to form the backside of the fabric, and the face side was varied with cotton, modal, wool and soya spun yarns of 30sNe. Three different types of structural tightness factors were considered, such as low, medium and high were taken for sample development. The assessment towards dimensional, moisture management and thermal properties was carried out on all the samples.

Findings

The polyester-modal blend with a high tightness factor has shown maximum overall moisture management capability (OMMC) values of 0.73 and air permeability of 205.3 cm3/cm2/s. The same sample has shown comparatively higher thermal conductivity of 61.72 × 10–3 W m-1 °C-1(Under compression state) and 58.45 × 10–3 W m-1 °C-1 (under recovery state). In the case of surface roughness is concerned, polyester-modal blends have shown the lowest surface roughness, surface roughness amplitude and surface friction co-efficient. Among the selected fibre combinations, the overall comfort level of polyester-modal bi-layer knitted structure with a higher tightness factor is appreciable. Polyester-modal is more suitable for active sportswear among the four fiber blend combinations.

Research limitations/implications

The outcome of this study will help to gain a better understanding of fibre blends, structural tightness factor and other process specifications for the development of bi-layer fabric for active sportswear applications. The dynamic functional testing methods (Moisture management and Thermal properties) were carried out to simulate the actual wearing environment of the sports clothing. This study will create a new scope of research opportunities in the field of bi-layer sports textiles.

Originality/value

This study was conducted to explore the influence of fibre blend and structural tightness factor on the comfort level of sportswear and to find the suitable fibre blend for active sportswear clothing.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 4
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 10 October 2022

Manoj Kumar Imrith, Satyadev Rosunee and Roshan Unmar

Lightweight, open construction cotton knitted fabrics generally do not impart good protection from solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). As lightweight 100% cotton single jersey is…

Abstract

Purpose

Lightweight, open construction cotton knitted fabrics generally do not impart good protection from solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). As lightweight 100% cotton single jersey is highly cherished for summerwear, it is sine qua non to understand the structural parameters that effectively strike a good balance between UV protection and thermophysiological comfort of the wearer. Relatively heavy fabrics protect from UVR, but comfort is compromised because of waning porosity, increase in thickness and thermal insulation. The purpose of this paper is to engineer knits that will bestow maximum UV protection while preserving the thermophysiological comfort of the wearer.

Design/methodology/approach

In total, 27 cotton single jersey fabrics with different areal densities and yarn counts were selected. Ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) was calculated based on the work of Imrith (2022). To précis, the authors constructed a UV box to measure the UPF of fabrics, denoted as UPFB. UPFB data were correlated with AATCC 183-2004 and yielded high correlation, R2 0.977. It was concluded that UPF 50 corresponds to UPFB 94.3. Thermal comfort properties were measured on the Alambeta and water-vapour resistance on the Permetest. Linear programming (LP) was used to optimize UPFB and comfort. Linear optimization focused on maximizing UPFB while keeping the thermophysiological comfort and areal density as constraints.

Findings

The resulting linear geometrical and sensitivity analyses generated multiple technically feasible solutions of fabrics thickness and porosity that gave valid UPFB, thermal absorptivity and water-vapour and thermal resistance. Subsequently, an interactive optimization software was developed to predict the stitch length, tightness factor and yarn count for optimum UPFB from a given areal density. The predicted values were then used to knit seven 100% cotton single jersey fabrics and were tested for UV protection. All seven fabrics gave UPFB above the threshold, that is, higher than 94.3. The mathematical model demonstrated good correlations with the optimized parameters and experimental values.

Originality/value

The optimization software predicted the optimum UPFB reasonably well, starting from the fabric structural and constructional parameters. In addition, the models were developed as interactive user interfaces, which can be used by knitted fabric developers to engineer cotton knits for maximizing UV protection without compromising thermophysiological comfort. It has been demonstrated that LP is an efficient tool for the optimization and prediction of targeted knitted fabrics parameters.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 27 no. 3
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 5 August 2022

Ngan Yi Kitty Lam, Jeanne Tan, Anne Toomey and Ka Chun Jimmy Cheuk

This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).

152

Abstract

Purpose

This paper aims to investigate how different knitted structures affect the illuminative effect of polymeric optical fibres (POFs).

Design/methodology/approach

Knit prototypes were constructed using a 7-gauge industrial hand flat knitting machine. The textile prototype swatches developed in this study tested POF illumination in three types of knitting structures: intervallic knit and float stitch structures; POF inlaid into double plain and full cardigan structures; and double plain and partial knitting structures. The illuminative effects of the POFs in seven prototype swatches were analysed and compared.

Findings

It is possible to use an industrial hand flat knitting machine to knit POFs. Longer floats expose more POFs, which boosts illumination but limits the textile’s horizontal stretchability. The openness of the full cardigan structure maximises POF exposure and contributes to even illumination. The partial knitting in different sections achieves the most complete physical integration of POFs into the knitted textiles but constrains the horizontal stretchability of the textiles.

Practical implications

The integration of POFs into knitted textiles provides a functional illuminative effect. Applications include but are not limited to fashion, architecture and interior design.

Originality/value

This study is novel, as it investigates new POF knitted textiles with different loop structures. This study examines how knit stitches affect POFs in intervallic knit and float stitch, inlaid POF double knit, double plain and partial knit and the illuminative effects of the knitted textile.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. 28 no. 2
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

Article
Publication date: 2 June 2023

Heba Tolla El Sayed Abo El Naga and Manar Yahia Ismail Abd El-Aziz

Synthetic materials have many drawbacks in high-performance garments because they absorb less moisture and cause allergies to sensitive individuals. Cotton materials cannot…

Abstract

Purpose

Synthetic materials have many drawbacks in high-performance garments because they absorb less moisture and cause allergies to sensitive individuals. Cotton materials cannot satisfy all the requirements and cannot provide the required high performance. This study aims to use eco-friendly materials with a common structure to analyse their suitability for high-performance garment application.

Design/methodology/approach

This study used two eco-friendly yarns (bamboo, modal and bamboo: modal 50:50) and yarns per needle (two- and four-ply yarns). with a single jersey knit construction and gauge of 7. The physical, mechanical, appearance, comfort, thermal and ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) protection characteristics were evaluated using 15 tests.

Findings

The produced knitted fabrics showed high performance for use as garments with physical, mechanical, appearance, comfort, thermal and UPF protection characteristics that were achieved, tested and analysed. The highest-achieved samples with a good UPF (<15) were made from bamboo material, which has other high-performance characteristics such as antibacterial characteristics, a soft surface, thermal insulation and others.

Research limitations/implications

The single jersey structure was used for producing fabrics as it is the common structure in the garment. Also, only gauge 7 was used for its economics and ease of production.

Details

Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, vol. ahead-of-print no. ahead-of-print
Type: Research Article
ISSN: 1560-6074

Keywords

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