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The purpose of this paper is to predict the appearance of denim fabric after repetitive uses judging the denim cloth behavior and performance in viewpoint of bagging ability. Hence, it attempts to carry out the significant inputs and outputs that have an influence on the bagging behaviors using the Principal Component Analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the Kawabata Evaluation System parameters such as the frictional characteristics, the bending, compression, tensile and shear parameters are investigated to propose a model highlighting and explaining their impacts on the different bagging properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their bagging properties using Taguchi experimental design. The linear regressive models prove the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.

To investigate the mechanical properties and their contributions on the bagging characteristics, some denim fabrics were collected and measured thanks to the Kawabata evaluation systems (KES-FB1, KES-FB2, KES-FB3 and KES-FB4). These bagging properties were further analyzed applying the method of PCA to acquire factor patterns that indicate the most important fabric properties for characterizing the bagging behaviors of different studied denim fabric samples. An experimental design type Taguchi was, hence, applied to improve the results. Regarding the obtained results, it may be concluded that the PCA method remained a powerful and flawless technique to select the main influential inputs and significant outputs, able to define objectively the bagging phenomenon and which should be considered from the next researches.

According to the results, there are good relationships between the Kawabata input parameters and the analyzed bagging properties of studied denim fabrics. Indeed, thanks to the PCA, it is probably easy to reduce the number of the influent parameters for three reasons. First, applying this technique of selection can help to select objectively the most influential inputs which affect enormously the bagged fabrics. Second, knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of denim fabric bagging seems fruitful and can undoubtedly help researchers explain widely this complex phenomenon. Third, regarding the findings mentioned, it seems that the prevention of this aesthetic phenomenon appearing in some specific zones of denim fabrics will be more and more accurate.

This study is interesting for denim consumers and industrial applications during long and repetitive uses. Undoubtedly, the denim garments remained the largely used and consumed, hence, this particularity proves the necessity to study it in order to evaluate the bagging phenomenon which occurs as function of number of uses. Although it is fashionable to have bagging, the denim fabric remains, in contrast with the worsted ones, the most popular fabric to produce garments. Moreover, regarding this characteristic, the large uses and the acceptable value of denim fabrics, their aesthetic appearance behavior due to bagging phenomenon can be analyzed accurately because compared to worsted fabrics, they have a high value and the repetitive tests to investigate widely bagged zones may fall the industrial. The paper has practical implications in the clothing appearance and other textile industry, especially in the weaving process when friction forms (yarn-to-yarn, yarn-to-metal frictions) and stresses are drastic. This can help understanding why residual bagging behavior remained after garment uses due to the internal stress and excessive extensions. Regarding the selected influential inputs and outputs relative to bagging behaviors, there are some practical implications that have an impact on the industrial and researchers to study objectively the occurrence of this aesthetic phenomenon. Indeed, this study discusses the significance of the overall inputs; their contributions on the denim fabric bagged zones aims to prevent their ability to appear after uses. Moreover, the results obtained regarding the fabric mechanical properties can be useful to fabric and garment producers, designers and consumers in specifying and categorizing denim fabric products, insuring more denim cloth use and controlling fabric value. For applications where the subjective view of the consumer is of primary importance, the KES-FB system yields data that can be used for evaluating fabric properties objectively and prejudge the consumer satisfaction in viewpoint of the bagging ability. Therefore, this study shows that by measuring shear, tensile and frictional parameters of KES-FB, it may be possible to evaluate bagging properties. However, it highlights the importance and the significance of some inputs considered influential or the contrast (non-significant) in other researches.

This work presents the first study analyzing the bagged denim fabric applying the PCA technique to remove the all input parameters which are not significant. Besides, it deals with the relationship developed between the mechanical fabric properties (tensile, shear and frictional stresses) and the bagging properties behavior. To improve these obtained relationships, for the first time, the regression technique and experimental design type Taguchi analysis were both applied. Moreover, it is notable to mention that the originality of this study is to let researchers and industrials investigate the most influential inputs only which have a bearing on the bagging phenomenon.

This paper traces the evolution of objective measurement of textile hand and comfort from Pierce through modern methodology and approaches. Special emphasis is given to discuss the contribution of the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) towards advancing the state of objective measurement. Laboratory case studies are used to show how data generated by the KES and other instruments can be integrated into a comprehensive approach that attempts to explain human comfort response to garment wear in terms of fabric mechanical, surface and heat and moisture transfer properties.

The effect of enzyme treatments with consecutive softening by the use of silicone – polyurethane on low stress mechanical properties and hand values of jute/cotton union fabric have been studied on the Kawabata evaluation system (KES). The results indicate that the enzyme treated, silicone – polyurethane finished fabric has significant (p<0.05) improvement in tensile resilience, fabric extensibility, compressional resistance and friction co efficient, whereas fabric thickness, linearity of tensile, surface roughness, bending and shear rigidity and their hysteresis are reduced compared to the untreated fabric. Under the Kawabata system, the Koshi (stiffness) value of the finished fabric is decreased by 1-9%. Numeri (smoothness) and Fukurami (fullness and softness) values are increased by 11-20% and 3-4% respectively compared to the untreated fabric. The variation in primary hand values are significant (p<0.05). The total hand value (THV) is also increased by 6% and 44% for the case of 40/60 and 50/50 jute/cotton union fabrics, respectively. This study confirms the possible usage of jute/cotton fabric in the apparel segment.

Deals with the qualitative and quantitative analysis of the tailorability of lightweight wool fabrics, as well as studies related to the interaction between the ease of tailorability and performance characteristics of wool fabrics. The role of mechanical/physical properties of fabric in the making‐up process as regards lightweight wool fabrics must be fully understood in order to achieve trouble‐free tailoring of garments made from such fabrics. Places emphasis on practical analysis of tailorability of difficult lightweight wool fabrics, providing subsequent solutions for the making‐up of such fabrics. In tailorability prediction analysis work, in addition to analysis of overall garment production, the further analysis of part processes such as sewing, feeding and handling have also been made using TEFO’s computerized methods of analysis. Results are analysed in terms of the relevant mechanical and physical properties of the test fabrics. Evaluates properties using both the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) and Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) sets of instruments.

Wearing clothes requires specifications for feeling comfortable, derived from the fibres, fabrics and finishing properties. This study aims to deal with the effect of economic blends containing hollow fibres, bamboo and cotton/polyester waste on the mechanical properties of the produced fabrics and the appropriate end use.

This research included two blends: one consisted of cotton/polyester wastes blended with bamboo and the other to which Chorisia fibres were added. Two weft counts 10,6/1 Ne were made from each blend, which were used to produce four fabric samples (S1 Chorisia-free and S2 with Chorisia); additionally, another two samples were dyed that contain Chorisia (S3) from each count. The six samples were tested by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES).

The samples gave a good total hand value (THV) for use as men's winter suits, where the thicker count 6/1, with and without Chorisia had better properties, also both counts 6, 10/1 with dye. The hollow fibres affected the fabrics’ properties, including thickness, shear, bending, thermal conductivity and weight. Both blends had a positive effect on THV.

Cotton/polyester waste, Chorisia and bamboo fibres were tested, and 2% Remazol Yellow GNL dye was used.

The ratio of blending, weft counts and dye affected the fabric’s properties, with consequences for the use of the Kawabata system and its applications.

The fabrics used in this research may be considered to be economical and have good THV.

The study proved the usefulness of fabrics made of two blends. The Chorisia component may be seen as a good alternative to cotton fibres to reduce the cost of producing high-consumption winter suit fabrics.

Discusses the 6th ITCRR, its breadth of textile and clothing research activity, plus the encouragement given to workers in this field and its related areas. States that, within the newer research areas under the microscope of the community involved, technical textiles focuses on new, ‘smart’ garments and the initiatives in this field in both the UK and the international community at large. Covers this subject at length.

Fabric testing has progressed from subjective hand evaluation to very sophisticated instrumental techniques. Examines past developments and suggests some future directions in this area. Reports research work being pursued by the present authors in developing automated test systems.

Denim fabric has become a wardrobe staple due to its versatility to be worn in a variety of fashions. This paper aims to study denim fabrics to understand their unique hand by developing a hand evaluation system using computational method. Also, the effect of various washes was studied on the hand and surface morphology of denim fabrics.

Five different denim samples were manufactured with various washing treatments. The Kawabata Evaluation System was used to measure the low stress mechanical properties. Computation method was used to develop hand equations using multiple regression technique in the MS Excel software. The correlation coefficient analysis was done to determine the authenticity of the developed equations. Five primary hand attributes such as softness, smoothness, fullness, flexibility and stretchability were shortlisted by a panel of judges that influence the fabric handle.

The correlation coefficient between subjective and computational total hand values with thermal properties and without thermal properties was 0.88 and 0.85, respectively. The enzymatic wash fabric has the highest total hand value followed by the acid, bleach and stone-washed fabrics.

Although the hand evaluation system is available for conventional textiles like suiting and shirting fabrics, the method to predict fabric hand of non-conventional textiles such as denim fabrics remains an unexplored topic. The stresses acting on denim fabrics are completely different. Therefore, to the best of the author’s knowledge, a novel attempt has been made in this research work to develop a computational model to predict the total hand value of denim fabrics.

Presents the objective evaluation of a stabilized garment parts handle, based on determination of mechanical and physical properties of fabrics using the Kawabata Evaluation System. Parameters that influence the handle are shown on the basis of 16 parameters of mechanical and physical properties of shell fabric, interlining and fused panel.

For size reasons, adapted sensors, able to measure intrinsic mechanical properties of fabrics, have not been developed yet. The study aims at developing a sensor that can be inserted within a specific textile, a “complex” fabric used as seat‐cover fabrics, and consisting of an assembly of three layers.

Piezoelectric polymer sensors containing polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) were chosen. A total of 20 “complex” were studied. A characterisation in compression was achieved, using the Kawabata Evaluation System. The best‐adapted measurement method using a PVDF sensor has been required. The method consists in analyzing the response under compressive stress of a PVDF disc using the resonant frequency of the material. A constraint series is applied to the fabric in the sensor area; the maximal phase at the sensor's resonant frequency is taken up for each one.

Phase variation is linear and differs according to the studied “complex”. A correlation study between Kawabata compression parameters and slopes did not show any relationship between slope values and compression properties when the surface fabrics of “complex” are compared, but a classification in “families” is possible when different foams are considered.

Further studies should demonstrate whether these “smart” textiles could find applications in the automotive field, to measure accurately the mass of a passenger. The influence of the external parameters (vibrations, temperature variations) has to be checked, knowing that the sensor is not depending on moisture. To complete the study, the sensor has to be tested in a real situation, i.e. inserted in a car‐seat, in contact with a human body.

This study promises development of a sensor that can be inserted into a specific textile, a “complex” fabric used as a seat‐cover, consisting of an assembly of three layers.