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Describes a research project in which a cotton twill fabric was subjected to various finishing treatments. Then the level of puckering of finished fabrics before and after…
Describes a research project in which a cotton twill fabric was subjected to various finishing treatments. Then the level of puckering of finished fabrics before and after washing was evaluated subjectively. Simultaneously, by means of the KES‐F instruments, all the mechanical properties of these samples were determined, and the results were used to calculate their formability and sewability. All the results were then analysed by means of the multivariate method. Concludes that a higher level of sewability generally offers samples without puckering as well as higher values of 2HB, 2HG and 2HG5, and to some extent higher levels of B and G also.
A garment is regarded as desirable and beautiful if it covers the body with harmony and gracefulness. High drape, lightweight and soft handle fabrics are in demand…
A garment is regarded as desirable and beautiful if it covers the body with harmony and gracefulness. High drape, lightweight and soft handle fabrics are in demand, particularly for womenswear garments such as dresses, shirts, skirts, trousers and suits. Fabric drapability can be measured by a number of drapemeters for different modes of drapability such as static, dynamic and revolving. It has been shown that the drape coefficients, Ds , Dd and Dr , associated with these respective modes of drapability can be predicted from a combination of measurements from the KES-F system (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics).
In this paper we present the results of our studies on the prediction of drapability of lightweight wool fabrics, based on the KES-F system and drape coefficient predictive equations. It has been shown that the parameters Dr/Ds and Dd/Ds , called Indices of Drape Fluidity, Ir and Id , express the fluid drape behaviour better than Ds , Dr , D200 and Dd . This is because they discriminate and predict the drapability of fabrics better. Ir and Id have higher CV% than the Dr and Dd data, and therefore represent greater relative dispersion in a fabric group for drape. Various drape parameters of a group of wool fabrics have been compared with the four groups of polyester Shingosen fabrics, namely, New Silky, New Worsted, Rayon Touch and Peach Face, which are recognised for their soft fluid drape.
The experience of the Philadelphia College of Textiles and Science with the use of Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES‐F) since 1984 and more recently, 1988, with…
The experience of the Philadelphia College of Textiles and Science with the use of Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES‐F) since 1984 and more recently, 1988, with the Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) is described. Although previous projects have involved the effect of chemical and mechanical finishing and sponging on the hand and mechanical properties of fabrics, the major emphasis here correlates the processability of fabrics in tailored clothing manufacturing, especially in manually operated overfeed sewing, with the tensile‐elongation and shear properties of these fabrics. It is anticipated that programmable sewing machines will require instructions based on the mechanical properties of the fabrics being processed.
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of laundering on the drape, shear, and bending properties of bottom weight fabrics.
Six bottom‐weight 100 percent cotton fabrics were included. Collier's Drape Tester was utilized to obtain drape values. Bending and shear values were measured on the KES‐F Shear Tester and the Pure Bending Tester. Three laundering cycles (unlaundered, one and five home launderings) following AATCC methods were explored.
Laundry cycle did not have a significant effect on fabric drape, shear or bending properties. However, drape values increased overall, while shear and bending modulus and hysteresis decreased, resulting in a more drapable, pliable fabric after five laundry cycles.
Future research examining a wider variety of fabrics and conducting a greater number of laundry cycles to approximate an average yearly number of laundry cycles is recommended. An expansion of this preliminary study should give more conclusive evidence of the trends observed.
Objective measurement of drape and fabric mechanical properties related to drape after laundry treatments would assist the apparel manufacturer in developing laundry recommendations based on the fabric's performance and in selecting fabrics which maintain their drape characteristics, mechanical properties, and dimensional stability with use. Higher quality garments with increased consumer satisfaction would result.
Some of the basic mechanical characteristics such as tensile, bending, shear, compression, and surface properties of cotton knitted fabrics after a durable flame‐retardant…
Some of the basic mechanical characteristics such as tensile, bending, shear, compression, and surface properties of cotton knitted fabrics after a durable flame‐retardant finishing, were studied by the objective‐evaluation method developed by Kawabata and Niva using the KES‐F system. In addition, properties such as bursting strength, drape and sewability were studied in order to further explore the influence of this treatment on the fabrics. All treated fabrics were flame‐retardant but their mechanical properties showed changes as a result of the above finishing. More specifically, a significant reduction in the bending and shear properties was recorded, which suggests that the flame‐retardant finishing primarily affects the above characteristics.
Gives a review of the various methods which have been developed to measure the stiffness of fabric and describes a new method. This new approach enables the testing of…
Gives a review of the various methods which have been developed to measure the stiffness of fabric and describes a new method. This new approach enables the testing of knitted fabrics which are difficult to test using the cantilever system. The inter‐operative reproducibility of the new instrument is compared with that of the cantilever method and the drape meter. Also reports inter‐laboratory comparisons on woven fabric and on knitted fabric, the latter having been measured on a KES‐F system.
The first of a two‐part series, this paper aims to discuss the design and development of an artificial intelligence‐based hybrid model to understand human perception of…
The first of a two‐part series, this paper aims to discuss the design and development of an artificial intelligence‐based hybrid model to understand human perception of the tactile properties of textile materials and create an objective system to express those tactile perceptions in terms of measurable mechanical properties.
A forward engineering system using the Model Free Algorithm approach of the Artificial Intelligence Technique to predict the tactile comfort score is presented.
Human perception of tactile sensation is based on the weighted stimulus perceived by the human neural system.
Contribution to intelligent textile and garment manufacture.
Deals with the qualitative and quantitative analysis of the tailorability of lightweight wool fabrics, as well as studies related to the interaction between the ease of…
Deals with the qualitative and quantitative analysis of the tailorability of lightweight wool fabrics, as well as studies related to the interaction between the ease of tailorability and performance characteristics of wool fabrics. The role of mechanical/physical properties of fabric in the making‐up process as regards lightweight wool fabrics must be fully understood in order to achieve trouble‐free tailoring of garments made from such fabrics. Places emphasis on practical analysis of tailorability of difficult lightweight wool fabrics, providing subsequent solutions for the making‐up of such fabrics. In tailorability prediction analysis work, in addition to analysis of overall garment production, the further analysis of part processes such as sewing, feeding and handling have also been made using TEFO’s computerized methods of analysis. Results are analysed in terms of the relevant mechanical and physical properties of the test fabrics. Evaluates properties using both the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) and Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing (FAST) sets of instruments.
As CAD fabric modelling becomes more widespread there is a need to study the applicability of fabric property parameters which are used in predicting fabric behaviour. The anisotropical mechanical behaviour of woven fabrics, fusible interlinings and their composites were studied on order to invesigate the accuracy of equations used to predict the anisotropic linear elastic behaviour of fabric for in plane and bending deformation. Bending, shear and tensile properties were measured using KES©F equipment. Results showed that the orthotropic model of anisotropy can be applied for the qualitative modelling of woven and fusible interlining fabrics and that simple mechanical models for bending properties can be used for their composites.
The surface of the textile fabrics is not absolutely flat and smooth. Its geometrical roughness within certain extents is considerable. The surface roughness influences…
The surface of the textile fabrics is not absolutely flat and smooth. Its geometrical roughness within certain extents is considerable. The surface roughness influences the fabric hand and it plays a significant role in the end use of the fabric. In parallel, the periodic variations of the fabric surface level due to the regular interlaced patterns of the yarns cause a respective variation of the geometrical roughness measurement. Thus, the fabric roughness data measured using the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics and imposed to a certain process of numerical calculations result into the retrieval of the structural parameters of the fabric. The principle of the method has a non‐destructive character and can be applied to woven or knitted fabrics.