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First of two papers which investigate the factors that influence drycleaning performance of commercially available pigskin apparel. Examines two drycleaning solvents and two drycleaning treatments on two colours of pigskin suede and two interlinings. Latent defects were found related to hide selection and processing which may affect apparel performance and consumer satisfaction. When the bond between leather and interlining was permanent, variation in shrinkage was reduced but distortion of garment parts may occur because of differential shrinkage. Pilling of one interlining was so severe it would interfere with overall performance of garments. Manufacturer's recommendation for selection of interlining was not a reliable predictor of performance.

The purpose of this paper is to evaluate some important parameters in plate buckling of fused interlining worsted fabric with different weight and laying‐up direction. The article compares the formability of fused fabric composite by two different methods (Lindberg's hypothesis and fabric assurance by simple testing method).

Plate buckling compression behavior of fused fabric composite is investigated using a special designed clamp according to Dahlberg's test method.

The result shows that fusible interlining lay‐up angle significantly influences on buckling parameters. It is indicated that the buckling behavior of fused fabric composite against lay‐up interlining direction is in accordance with interlining buckling behavior. The result of research suggests that the formability behavior of fused fabric composite with interlining lay‐up direction is predictable according to Lindberg's method.

Experimental design is limited at low speed. Further research works are needed to perform buckling behavior of fused fabric composites at higher speeds as well as under cyclic loading conditions.

Compression plate buckling behavior of fused interlining fabrics is predictable against interlining laying‐up direction. The result of this research could be used in the area of garment quality serviceability.

Drape of the fabric is its ability to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. When two‐dimensional fabrics are converted to three‐dimensional garment forms, a number of operations are required which affect drape behaviour of the fabric while present in garment form. In the present study, the effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics is investigated.Design/methodology/approach – The effect of sewing and fusing of interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics is investigated. Comparisons were also made between different stitches (chain stitch and lock stitch), different seams for lock stitch and different types of interlinings for their effect on drape behaviour of fabrics. In addition to drape coefficient and number of folds, a new drape parameter – average amplitude to average radius (A/r) ratio – was also defined and calculated for drape image geometry.Findings – Drape coefficient has a good to strong correlation with A/r ratio and number of folds for most of the shell, sewn and interlining fused fabrics except for a few cases. A/r defines image in a more descriptive manner than drape coefficient. Drape coefficient changes with the types of seams and stitches used, as well as with the interlining used.Originality/value – This paper provides information on the effects of sewing (seams and stitch types) and fused interlining on drape behaviour of men's suiting fabrics.

Garments are now becoming high class and automated. Using key face fabrics and interlining structure properties to predict the quality grade of fused composites has become an important subject in the pursuit of quick reaction of fabrics. The establishment of the ideal composite parameters for interlining and face fabrics allows us to know the ideal interlining for face fabrics sooner. Hence, this paper, through discriminate analysis and the scatter plot, successfully found the ideal composite condition range for interlining and face fabrics. Artificial neural network training was used for the structural prediction of a fused composites quality model. Model tests showed the presence of good prediction ability.

Functions of interlinings to the shell fabric are to improve the garment formability for a beautiful silhouette and elastic potential to the deformed fabric during wearing, and also are to enhance appearance and wearing properties of the garment. The objective of this study is to analyse suitability of nonwoven fusible interlining to the thin worsted fabric with various fabric structural parameters. For the purpose of this study, specimens with various weft yarn twists and weft densities of thin worsted fabrics are prepared. Three nonwoven fusible interlinings with different structure which were made of nylon/polyester were used for adhering to the thin worsted fabrics. Mechanical properties of these 24 adhesive fabrics fused with three nonwoven interlinings are measured by the KES‐FB System for analysing the suitability of nonwoven fusible interlinings to the thin worsted fabrics with various fabric structural parameters. Some mechanical properties of fused fabrics are analysed and discussed with repetition of dry cleaning of adhesive fabrics for performing effects of dry cleaning to the suitability of nonwoven fusible interlining to the shell fabrics.

Bond strength is an indicator of the quality of the fusing process. The study's primary purpose is to predict the bond strength using easily measurable variables. This study focuses on shirting fabrics fused with woven interlinings and changes in bond strength before and after washing.

This study attempts to model and predict bond strength of fused shirt composites using an initial screening design followed by full factorial design of experiments. After screening out, those found significantly affecting the bond strength are fabric fiber content, interlining areal weight and fusing temperature. This study proposes the regression models explaining the effect of the three variables on bond strength before and after washing the fused composites.

This study found that heavy interlinings (250 g/sq.m) require higher fusing temperatures than the lighter interlining (225 g/sq.m). After washing, the bond strength of samples fused at high temperatures reduced in some instances. Maintaining a high temperature without considering interlining weight can lower the bond strength after washing the fused composites.

A combination of screening and full factorial DOE is used to analyze and predict bond strength of composites comprising medium-weight shirting fabrics and heavier weight interlinings used in shirts.

Presents the objective evaluation of a stabilized garment parts handle, based on determination of mechanical and physical properties of fabrics using the Kawabata Evaluation System. Parameters that influence the handle are shown on the basis of 16 parameters of mechanical and physical properties of shell fabric, interlining and fused panel.

To investigate consumers’ perceptions of appearance and handle of the chest area and the lapel in men’s tailored jackets, both objective measurement using FAST and subjective assessment utilising semi‐structured interview were employed. It was found that objective measurement provides insufficient information to predict the tailorability if reliance is placed purely upon properties obtained from shell fabrics. Use of the fabric and interlining laminates, however, provides better prediction of tailorability, especially those aspects associated with appearance and shape retention. It was also found that objective measurement results do not agree with the subjective assessment results, particularly with regard to the subjective assessment of the female interviewees. It is suggested that thought should be given to devising a method of evaluating objective measurement results suitable to fabric and interlining laminates that can also take account of market trends directly related to consumer perception.

The paper presents the objective evaluation and prediction of properties of a fused panel. A system for automatic knowledge acquisition from a given set of examples presents an alternative way to build a knowledge base to determine the quality of a fused panel. On the basis of analyses of influential factors of fused panel quality the learning and testing set of examples to predict the bonding strength of fused panel has been formed.

The purpose of this paper is to quantitatively evaluate the effect of adhesive interlining on the appearance of tailored jackets with different rigidity.

Four tailored jackets having the same pattern and fabric and three different adhesive interlinings or no adhesive interlining were prepared as experimental samples. Criteria and characteristics for assessing jacket appearance were investigated in sensory tests. A paired comparison of the jacket appearance was conducted using a ranking method. Smoothness and constriction values were proposed and obtained using three-dimensional shape data. The smoothness value refers to the degree of wrinkling on the jacket surface and the constriction value refers to the degree of constriction of the waistline. A quantitative assessment model of jacket appearance was proposed using multiple regression analysis.

The sensory test reveals that the number of wrinkles, acceptability of wrinkling and degree of constriction of the waist are important criteria in the assessment of jacket appearance. The smoothness value for the front body and the constriction value of the waist partially agreed with the normal scores of sensory test results. Sensory evaluation values for the entire jacket appearance were estimated employing multiple regression analysis with the constriction and smoothness values. The values of jacket appearance estimated using multiple regression analysis were in good agreement with the sensory test results.

Criteria and characteristics to be used in the assessment of the appearance of a jacket with adhesive interlining were clarified. Employing the proposed methodology, it is possible to predict jacket appearance for different adhesive interlinings, quantitatively.