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Despite the globalization and internalization of competition and surplus of apparel production, high labour costs and other economic pressures, apparel products are still being produced using traditional methods and machinery, the mechanics of which have not fundamentally changed since the seventeenth century, even nowadays when the materials produced are very flexible and diverse in texture and properties. In developing the industry further, the nature of interaction between machinery, fabric and operatives has to be taken into account, and this poses some real problems if one has to put forward realistic solutions for future industrial development. It is therefore important to be able to take into consideration fabric/machine/human interactions during the manufacturing process in order to propose the next generation of manufacturing systems which is much needed in the current apparel industry. Reports on findings in the area of intelligent garment manufacture which is a means of introducing flexibility, quality, production efficiency and maximization of resources to the apparel industry. Primarily emphasizes the importance of fabric properties and their interaction with the whole manufacturing process, the labour force and especially with sewing. In order to achieve this, applies computational intelligence and engineering to research, develop and implement intelligent textile and apparel environments, and introduce desired flexibility into the whole area of textile and apparel processes, especially in terms of quick response (QR) and just in time (JIT).

The purpose of this paper is to mathematically model the structure of doubled fancy yarns made by combining together several threads.

It was assumed that such a structure may have two distinctive parts – sinusoidal and helical (i.e. sigmoidal). This model is based on calculating the length of the effect thread in relation to the core thread. The case of having several variants of such a structure was discussed to account for several types of doubled fancy yarns. The number of wraps of the binder, the overfed ratio, and heights of the fancy profiles in the different parts were the fundamental parameters of this model. The effects of changes in the number of wraps, the overfeed ratio or both simultaneously, on this model, were also considered. The shape factor of fancy yarn was also modelled depending on the basic model of the structure.

The model was tested and the correlation coefficient between the theoretical value and the real value of length of the effect thread was 0.90.

This model is useful for predicting the length of the effect component based on the type, dimension and number of the fancy profiles of doubled fancy yarn, and for understanding the changes of the multiple-thread structure of fancy yarn when the overfeed ratio and/or the number of wraps were to change.

Examines the thirteenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.